helppp!! not new to car audio but stuck on this...

[zumbo]

There may even need to be some off of the long piece, along with the middle piece. This will allow for the internal width of the vent to be a tad wider.

 

[killakilck123]

ok i wont cut til i know. but i have a question.. you know the little blue wire that comes with amp kits? i think its called the remote wire? its the one that goes from the amp to the head unit.. well my question is.. will my 8gauge remote wire work or do i need to use a different one when i use 4gauge power wires? i just want to know if i need to buy another one.. ??????

 

[zumbo]

ok i wont cut til i know. but i have a question.. you know the little blue wire that comes with amp kits? i think its called the remote wire? its the one that goes from the amp to the head unit.. well my question is.. will my 8gauge remote wire work or do i need to use a different one when i use 4gauge power wires? i just want to know if i need to buy another one.. ??????

16AWG will be fine. Any auto parts store, Home Depot, or hardware store will be fine. Do not use the 8AWG.

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/50-Stinger-16-Gauge-Blue-Primary-Wire-48p568.htm

 

[killakilck123]

Are you sure it matters? bcuz a friend of mine gave me the same wire that came in a 4 gauge kit and the one that came with his kit is about the same size if not a little lighter on copper then the one that came with the 8 gauge memphis kit.. but its basically the same.. i just dont wanna buy RCA cables and that primary remote wire and install them or w.e if i dont have to.. bcuz i think they are the same.. so basically im asking do i have to take out the rca cables and primary remote wire? or can i just leave those ones in and use the 4 gauge wires i just bought and set it up? Im not trying to say ur wrong im just low on cash after all this stuff..

 

[zumbo]

Are you sure it matters? bcuz a friend of mine gave me the same wire that came in a 4 gauge kit and the one that came with his kit is about the same size if not a little lighter on copper then the one that came with the 8 gauge memphis kit.. but its basically the same.. i just dont wanna buy RCA cables and that primary remote wire and install them or w.e if i dont have to.. bcuz i think they are the same.. so basically im asking do i have to take out the rca cables and primary remote wire? or can i just leave those ones in and use the 4 gauge wires i just bought and set it up? Im not trying to say ur wrong im just low on cash after all this stuff..

Your current primary(remote) wire is fine. I read your initial post as stating you wanted to use an 8AWG primary. That is waaaaaaay too large. If you used a primary that came in a kit, you are fine.

will my 8gauge remote wire work

All you need to do is pull 4AWG through were you have 8AWG. Power, and ground. Be sure the ground is bolted to bare metal in the chassis. I usually pull a seat belt anchor, sand the floor pan, and ground there.

If you are certain your current ground location is sufficient, then just connect the new wire there.

 

[killakilck123]

ok for sure. how about the RCA cables? they look like the same thickness..? can i just leave those in too? that way all i have to switch out of my jeep is the power and ground?

 

[zumbo]

ok for sure. how about the RCA cables? they look like the same thickness..? can i just leave those in too? that way all i have to switch out of my jeep is the power and ground?

The current RCA cables are fine. This is why I suggested early on not to buy a kit.

No worries. Extra cables will get used in time.

 

[zumbo]

Due to it being Easter weekend, you may not get many members on today. My daughter is asleep right now, but when gets-up, my replies will be limited as well.

You have just done a fine job with that box. You are going to be real proud after this gets going. Too bad you can't post the sound for us.

Road trip?JK

 

[killakilck123]

haha yea i wiish.. ok thats fine.. i just hope that annunaki gets back to me soon.. i wanna get it going alreadyyy.. the subs come tomorrow or tuesday

 

[zumbo]

haha yea i wiish.. ok thats fine.. i just hope that annunaki gets back to me soon.. i wanna get it going alreadyyy.. the subs come tomorrow or tuesday

Do you plan on removing the front to cut the holes for the vents and subs, or are you just going to cut them out as-is?

 

[killakilck123]

im guna unscrew the front to be more precise on the cuts.. but where do you think i should put the black n red wire terminals? i bought two.. they are both square.. also i hope that anunaki gets on soon bcuz i havent screwed on the inside pieces of the vent yet and i wanted to do it today... he hasnt ben on in a few days either... hmm

 

[zumbo]

im guna unscrew the front to be more precise on the cuts.. but where do you think i should put the black n red wire terminals? i bought two.. they are both square.. also i hope that anunaki gets on soon bcuz i havent screwed on the inside pieces of the vent yet and i wanted to do it today... he hasnt ben on in a few days either... hmm

The bottom would make for the cleanest hidden look, and also have less interference with the air flow. That would be my thought.

I would also use high quality wood glue on re-assembly. Don't forget to caulk the interior edges.

 

[annunaki]

IS IT RIGHT SO FAR GUYS? I WASNT SURE HOW LONG TO MAKE THAT SHORT PIECE ON THE VENT.. I HAVE EXTRA WOOD SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW ANYTHING THAT LOOKS WRONG AND I WILL FIX IT ACCORDINGLY

PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP BCUZ AS SOON AS THE SUBS COME IN MONDAY IM GOIN TO FINISH SO IF THERES ANYTHING WRONG I WANNA FIX IT TODAY. ALSO WHERE SHOULD I PUT THERE BLACK N RED SPEAKER TERMINALS? I BOUGHT A FEW OF THEM.. I WAS THINKING ON TOP OR BOTTOM SO IT DOESNT INTERFERE WITH THE VENT? LET ME KNO GUYSS
THANKS L

Nice work so far. The total length of the vent should be 39 inches down the center line of the vent from the point it exits the enclosure to the very end of the "J" as someone mentioned.

From my calculation without drawing it out, I estimated that piece to be about 1" in length using a center line measurement when I was coming up with the design. Using a piece of string you can confirm but that should be correct.

I am not sure if the vent pieces are in place yet, but if not just ensure that the vent width of 1.625" remains uniform.

I assume this is being constructed with wood glue & screws? Very good if you are. Remember that when bracing is added to keep it far enough away from the vent opening internally (at least 3" or more).

Again, nice work! Be sure to let us know how it sounds and post your pics!! I am very confident you will be quite pleased, especially considering what you are replacing! The best part about it is you can brag about the minimal investment you made and that you did it your self. With a little help of course

 

[Alex2507]

Regarding the glue use Tite Bond Original Wood Glue from Home Depot.
I'm a glue expert ... trust me on this.

Regarding the binding posts put them where it's convenient for you in the space you have. Don't put it in the vent of course ... maybe off to one side so you don't have wire draped across the top. I see trying to put it underneath as difficult to get to and not rip out while installing but you'll figure that part out if you maybe do a dry fit in your car before the drivers get installed.

 

[killakilck123]

ok thanks guys anunaki i forgot to mention.. my dad and i had one problem and he had to makke the distance between the wheel wells 34in instead of 35in in the original.. i didnt glue anything in the inside yet.. so it can be moved. i will make it right. but do i need to change anything not that the wheel well distance is 34in?? please let me know asap.. the subs come tomorrow.. i will install wen i get off work around 3-4pm.. mayb a little later.. if i can i will post a video of how they sound.. but please let me know if anything changes not that it is 34in between the wheel wells.. and anunaki where do you suggest i put the terminal cups? and yes i did use both wood glue and screws.. should i caulk it? or will it make a difference??? please get back to me asappp!!
thanks again
L

 

[annunaki]

ok thanks guys anunaki i forgot to mention.. my dad and i had one problem and he had to makke the distance between the wheel wells 34in instead of 35in in the original.. i didnt glue anything in the inside yet.. so it can be moved. i will make it right. but do i need to change anything not that the wheel well distance is 34in?? please let me know asap.. the subs come tomorrow.. i will install wen i get off work around 3-4pm.. mayb a little later.. if i can i will post a video of how they sound.. but please let me know if anything changes not that it is 34in between the wheel wells.. and anunaki where do you suggest i put the terminal cups? and yes i did use both wood glue and screws.. should i caulk it? or will it make a difference??? please get back to me asappp!!
thanks again
L

That is a rather important detail to leave out!

This drops your net internal volume by .22ft^3 or so and raises the tuning frequency to 26.79hz. It further lessens the very low end response but will not be too significant. Just ensure to keep the vent to 39.0" in net length. Going any longer at this point will only further lower the net effective volume as the gross volume has now already been decided/constructed.

Consider yourself lucky on this one making a change like that. With some woofers this would have DRASTICALLY changed the entire response of the woofer.

This also means that the end piece of your vent, at the end of the "J" will increase in length as the center section has now been reduced by an additional .5". Without figuring it all out it will most likely increase by .5" but I recommend measuring first before making your final cuts.

 

[killakilck123]

ok well the vent right now is 41in bcuz we didnt know where to take off from.. should we take more off the long piece?

 

[Alex2507]

ok well the vent right now is 41in bcuz we didnt know where to take off from.. should we take more off the long piece?

No.

The first part of that vent is the width and height. The height is established by the height of your box so that is set. Now you must maintain the 1-5/8" width. The length of that long piece controls that number at the middle piece. The length of the short end of the 'J' controls the length of the port and that is now what you have to determine by measuring down the center of the vent which is a line 13/16" (half of 1-5/8") away from your outside wall and dividing wall (on the inside of the box) starting at the outside of your box.

Edited to correct a reading error on my part and for clarification.

 

[annunaki]

No.

The first part of that vent is the width and height. The height is established by the height of your box so that is set. Now you must maintain the 1-5/8" width. The length of that long piece controls that number at the middle piece. The length of the short end of the 'J' controls the length of the port and that is now what you have to determine by measuring down the center of the vent which is a line 13/16" (half of 1-5/8") away from your outside wall and dividing wall (on the inside of the box) starting at the outside of your box.

Edited to correct a reading error on my part and for clarification.

Thanks Alex. This is correct. The end of the J needs to be shortened. I highly recommend measuring this down the center line of the vent.

 

[killakilck123]

ok we took off from the short piece and it is all good now. but i was confused on what you said about the height? is the height as tall as the box or is it smaller inside of there? what should the height of the vents be? btw the subs came in today. it will all be built by tomorrow afternoon i will post pix around noon chicago time. maybe a little later.. but let me know how high the vent walls should be and also where do you suggest i put the terminal cups for the speaker wire?? bottom? top? also.. the subs arent going to be connected together in the inside are they? they both have seperate terminals and they both will seperatly be put into the amp right??
let me kno asap thanks
L