Getting That Itch Again...

[Verdinut]

Yep. Display port is another.

Any locking connector really.

I use SpeakOn connectors on my three front channel speakers and on the QSC amps driving them. They are the most secure connectors on the market that I know of.

 

[Pogre]

I'm used to having short distances from pre to sub amp....more what I was thinking....then use longer run of speaker cable to sub. Just curious if that makes a difference with a shorter interconnect vs speaker wire....

Okay, I'm gonna do this. Move the amp closer to the receiver and make the longer run for the speaker cable. The amp only accepts speakon connectors tho, and what I'm seeing looks like you can have different pin wiring schemes (1+/1-, 2+/2-)? I'm assuming I can just disconnect the one I already have and wire it to a longer speaker cable? Do I need to mind the pins and how they're wired? I know these are very rudimentary questions, but I've never used speakon before.

 

[panteragstk]

Okay, I'm gonna do this. Move the amp closer to the receiver and make the longer run for the speaker cable. The amp only accepts speakon connectors tho, and what I'm seeing looks like you can have different pin wiring schemes (1+/1-, 2+/2-)? I'm assuming I can just disconnect the one I already have and wire it to a longer speaker cable? Do I need to mind the pins and how they're wired? I know these are very rudimentary questions, but I've never used speakon before.

View attachment 50955View attachment 50956View attachment 50957

This should help.

 

[Eppie]

Short answer is yes and be sure to maintain the correct polarity. What ever pin they use for the black wire that is on your negative speaker connection, do the same. You don't want to switch the ends and change the phase.

 

[lovinthehd]

Like those guys said, if the current wiring scheme works, just copy it over to a new cable. Was your connector soldered on or just screwed down?

 

[Pogre]

Like those guys said, if the current wiring scheme works, just copy it over to a new cable. Was your connector soldered on or just screwed down?

Dunno. I haven't tried very hard to take it apart yet, but I will definitely pay attention and just copy over the wiring scheme.

 

[Pogre]

Short answer is yes and be sure to maintain the correct polarity. What ever pin they use for the black wire that is on your negative speaker connection, do the same. You don't want to switch the ends and change the phase.

The polarity I completely understand. It's the other combinations of pins and wiring that I don't understand. Hopefully my current Speakon is not soldered together. Then again, I do have a soldering iron so...

 

[Pogre]

This is so aggravating... how in the hell do you take these apart?? Do they snap together? Screw together? I'm not making any headway and I'm afraid of breaking something.

*PS, got it. It's threaded, but it was super tight.

 

[Eppie]

This is so aggravating... how in the hell do you take these apart?? Do they snap together? Screw together? I'm not making any headway and I'm afraid of breaking something.

*PS, got it. It's threaded, but it was super tight.

Judging from panteragstk's photo, you use +1 and -1 for the + and - terminals, but if you have 4 conductor cable you can double up the wires and use both the 1 and 2 connections. This would be more common when you have speak-on on both ends; not so much when using banana plugs or spades on the other end unless you use both sets or binding posts on the speaker. Gets more complicated when you use two amplifier channels in bridge mode but I would refer to the amp manual for that. Pretty straight forward if you're just duplicating what was working before. If the connection was soldered, tin the ends of the new wire with solder before soldering to the speak-on connector. Makes it go a little easier.

From what I recall, some professional gear with 4 conductor cable uses one set of wires for one cabinet and the second set of wires for a stacked cabinet. Allows one cable to power two speaker cabinets.

 

[Pogre]

Judging from panteragstk's photo, you use +1 and -1 for the + and - terminals, but if you have 4 conductor cable you can double up the wires and use both the 1 and 2 connections. This would be more common when you have speak-on on both ends; not so much when using banana plugs or spades on the other end unless you use both sets or binding posts on the speaker. Gets more complicated when you use two amplifier channels in bridge mode but I would refer to the amp manual for that. Pretty straight forward if you're just duplicating what was working before. If the connection was soldered, tin the ends of the new wire with solder before soldering to the speak-on connector. Makes it go a little easier.
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From what I recall, some professional gear with 4 conductor cable uses one set of wires for one cabinet and the second set of wires for a stacked cabinet. Allows one cable to power two speaker cabinets.

Gotcha, and thanks for the explanation. I swear I must have a learning disability when it comes to diagrams like that.

I did get it apart tho, and there's no solder. Looks very straightforward. Just don't mix the polarity. Piece of cake.

Now I'm looking for speaker cable and found what I need cheap, but I can't confirm if it's copper! Do you see "copper" anywhere in this description?? Monoprice has 50' spools of 12g but cost a lot more. I only need 25', and that's allowing plenty of wiggle room.

https://www.amazon.com/AWG-Oxygen-Free-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0007KNKQ4

 

[ryanosaur]

Gotcha, and thanks for the explanation. I swear I must have a learning disability when it comes to diagrams like that.

I did get it apart tho, and there's no solder. Looks very straightforward. Just don't mix the polarity. Piece of cake.



Now I'm looking for speaker cable and found what I need cheap, but I can't confirm if it's copper! Do you see "copper" anywhere in this description?? Monoprice has 50' spools of 12g but cost a lot more. I only need 25', and that's allowing plenty of wiggle room.

https://www.amazon.com/AWG-Oxygen-Free-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0007KNKQ4

There is a Q&A on the page that claims it is not all copper.

 

[Pogre]

There is a Q&A on the page that claims it is not all copper.

I don't think it is, but like how they specify "oxygen-free". Also, what the hell is "palorized"? They made them super pale so they look like they're dead??

Think I can get away with 14g? It's only a 25' run. I just usually go a li'l overkill and it's for my sub.

 

[Eppie]

I don't think it is, but like how they specify "oxygen-free". Also, what the hell is "palorized"? They made them super pale so they look like they're dead??

Think I can get away with 14g? It's only a 25' run. I just usually go a li'l overkill and it's for my sub.

Polarized just means each side is a different colour so you can maintain polarity at each end.
This one is 30' 12 gauge and says OFC.
Sub amps can have high current peaks. A little overkill is good.

 

[Pogre]

Polarized just means each side is a different colour so you can maintain polarity at each end.
This one is 30' 12 gauge and says OFC.

Yeah, but they didn't spell it right! "Palorized", lol.

Thanks for the link, that looks like what I need and it's under 30 bucks!

*Edit: and arrives today!

 

[Eppie]

Yeah, but they didn't spell it right! "Palorized", lol.

Thanks for the link, that looks like what I need and it's under 30 bucks!

*Edit: and arrives today!

Haha... didn't notice the typo. Chinese marketing.

Cable covers if you want to dress up the lamp-cord look. Comes in 3 options.

 

[Trell]

Think I can get away with 14g? It's only a 25' run. I just usually go a li'l overkill and it's for my sub.

No thinner than 2g is recommended, but you might get away with 4g if it has pixie dust sprinkled on it.

 

[ryanosaur]

Cables covers if you want to dress up the lamp-cord look. Comes in 3 options.

Partscexpeess carries all the goodies from braided cable sleeves to cable pants… add in some shrink tubes with adhesive, and you can pimp-sauce your cables!

 

[Pogre]

There is a Q&A on the page that claims it is not all copper.

There are 2 others that answered and said it is copper. I think the other guys is right tho, and added my .02 in the answers also. THEN I voted the 2 who answered incorrectly as "unhelpful"! Ticks me off when folks answer without really knowing.

 

[lovinthehd]

Gotcha, and thanks for the explanation. I swear I must have a learning disability when it comes to diagrams like that.

I did get it apart tho, and there's no solder. Looks very straightforward. Just don't mix the polarity. Piece of cake.

View attachment 50961

Now I'm looking for speaker cable and found what I need cheap, but I can't confirm if it's copper! Do you see "copper" anywhere in this description?? Monoprice has 50' spools of 12g but cost a lot more. I only need 25', and that's allowing plenty of wiggle room.

https://www.amazon.com/AWG-Oxygen-Free-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0007KNKQ4

Just the idiotic claims on the packaging of the wire would have me pass it by....besides, at that price more likely to be CCA plus the guy who said he cut into it....

 

[lovinthehd]

....but I guess it's possible that an oxygen free copper was used to coat/clad with? LOL