Teac Reference Series

[sprimblop]

I've just bought a Teac A-H500i amplifier thanks to this thread, and I love it. So thank you!

 

[mr.steevo]

I've just bought a Teac A-H500i amplifier thanks to this thread, and I love it. So thank you!

What are you running it on?
Do you know if it has had the capacitors replaced?

 

[sprimblop]

What are you running it on?

It's on a desk.

The input is a desktop DAC and the output is a transformer going into Stax Sigma Pro headphones.

Do you know if it has had the capacitors replaced?

I haven't been told, so I very much doubt it, but it sounds great.

 

[tiana00]

Hi, I have Teac AV-H500 and TEAC PD-H570, this CD player only reads original CDs, is that normal? If I insert a recorded CD in the PC, it does nothing, it does not play it.

 

[NINaudio]

Hi, I have Teac AV-H500 and TEAC PD-H570, this CD player only reads original CDs, is that normal? If I insert a recorded CD in the PC, it does nothing, it does not play it.

According to the manual found here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1932023/Teac-Pd-H570.html?page=4#manual

it can only play discs with a D marking and nothing else.

 

[tiana00]

According to the manual found here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1932023/Teac-Pd-H570.html?page=4#manual

it can only play discs with a D marking and nothing else.

Thanks

 

[CD4]

Hi Claudiu M.,
Would you please be so kind to share the type of Bluetooth adapter you used for your TEAC and how you connect it ? After living abroad for years I have pulled my TEAC 500 out of the boxes and would like to adapt it for the fact I don’t really use CD’s anymore and mostly want to listen to online music.
Thank you very much !

 

[mr.steevo]

Hi Claudiu M.,
Would you please be so kind to share the type of Bluetooth adapter you used for your TEAC and how you connect it ? After living abroad for years I have pulled my TEAC 500 out of the boxes and would like to adapt it for the fact I don’t really use CD’s anymore and mostly want to listen to online music.
Thank you very much !

I've heard good things about the Arylic S10. You can stream Bluetooth, Airplay or have it connect directly to a music service via WiFi or Ethernet cable. Connect the S10 to the Aux or CD RCA inputs with the supplied cable.

 

[miklek65]

Hi Claudiu M.,
Would you please be so kind to share the type of Bluetooth adapter you used for your TEAC and how you connect it ? After living abroad for years I have pulled my TEAC 500 out of the boxes and would like to adapt it for the fact I don’t really use CD’s anymore and mostly want to listen to online music.
Thank you very much !

i went with an 'fx audio' chinese bluetooth box for about $50 with optical, digital coax and rca output. i use the digital coax with it and the sound quality is good over the phone or tablet. i even tied it with my mogabi rca and that wasnt much worse than the digital output. Stay away from the cheap under $10 rca only adapters.

 

[BenBomber]

It's on a desk.

The input is a desktop DAC and the output is a transformer going into Stax Sigma Pro headphones.



I haven't been told, so I very much doubt it, but it sounds great.

Hi, I have recently bought a AG-H500 and my question is if replacing the capacitors makes any real difference and when I know when I have to do so due to age.

 

[miklek65]

i think you are fine up to 20-25 years. replacing them will probably make a small difference, but then is it really worth the cost? or is it just better to spend that money on a better receiver.

 

[BenBomber]

Thanks for your reply and I will wait with any update. I have the full TEAC 500 system with Amp, CD, Tuner and tape recorder and like the design and quality of the TEAC setup. I will therefore spend the money on new LP records instead of upgrade the existing system.

 

[mbkelly]

Hi all, first post!
I”ve managed to snag a system with DVD, CD, tuner and av amp, the h500d (for the preamp 5.1 inputs).

I’m only using the amp, will be setting up the CD player at some time but not a priority to me, the other separates are not really needed…

on to my question. I’m considering changing the mains cable to a 3 core connection with an earth, not noticed and ground loops yet but as I build the system up want to be ahead of the game.

so is it a good idea to connect the earth inside the chassis and if so where?

also need a remote, jut for programming my ir blasters, can anyone recommend a good replacement with all buttons replicated?!

many thanks

 

[Back2thefuture]

Hi guys I recently bought a teac reference 500 series system with the mini disc.
However there is no display on the minidisc.
I can insert and eject a disc but no display.
Any ideas please?
Many thanks

 

[Back2thefuture]

Hi guys me again…bit of a disaster I was cleaning my amp and the power switch fell out. Think it was due to the force of the air duster!
Anyone know how this goes back together please?

 

[wowegoo]

Hi! First post. I have the 300 Series from 3 years ago and I love it. I have 8 components that I switch from time to time depending how I want it. Hope in future be able to get a couple of missing components of the series. Here a pic of my setup. Thanks for the add.

 

[wowegoo]

A couple more pics. 1 with all components and other with only 1 minidisc deck. Still looking to get the CD Recorder and maybe the 3 CD charger. I miss an EQ but I know that is not the kind of system to have an EQ and presets. Also missing some more specs in the cassette deck.

 

[CRMS]

I came across this topic whilst looking for a fix for a PD-H570 which was displaying the Err message. Turned out to be a mis parked CD tray 1 and easily fixed. Lots of cycling/loading/unloading CDs before final reassembly.
I also have the R-H500, AG-H550, DV-H550 and A-H500i units. All used to be connected to Tannoy Revolution R2 front and centre speakers with Wharfdale NXT flat panel rear speakers with BK Gemini woofer (2020). I bought it all in 1999-2001.
I am now using a Marantz NR1711 AV receiver for the HDMI and 4K connectivity.
It is all very interesting to read.

 

[SpriteFeedback]

Hi Folks,

Just keeping this thread alive. Over the last year I have got pretty much a full 500 series and have been very happy with them, just waiting on some decent speakers in the post to help them show themselves off a bit more. I think they look very smart, especially the amp, and the reduced footprint is such a benefit, they even fit nicely in the cubes of a kallax.

I think the only annoyance I have is that if I fully power off the amp when I turn it on again it automatically switches to the turner. A more minor issue is that to use all the features of certain decks, like the Minidisc, you have to use a separate remote but then you can't have it synchronised with the rest of the system and the switch to swap is at the back of the decks.

My current set up is:
A-H500i - Amp
MD-H500i - Minidisc
MD-H500 - Minidisc (recent purchase to have a spare)
PD-H500C - CD
T-H500 - Tuner
R-H500 - Cassette

I've looked through the various manuals and have just gone through the whole thread and still not completely sure about the differences between models as the specifications in the various manuals are sometimes identical. Also the manuals are not always very specific, e.g. the manual for the MD-H500i just refers to the remote supplied not a model number.

A-H500/A-H500i - an earlier post points to the 'i' to some upgraded connections and components and an power switch on the side, as opposed to the rear, but the specs in both manuals are identical.

MD-H500/MD-H500i - this seems to be one of the clearest differences. There is a different LED panel and the "i" version is much lighter (3.7kg vs 6kg) as well as some other differences in the specs such as Frequency response and signal to noise ratio.

PD-H500/PD-H500C/PD-H500i - The differences have been asked a few times but couldn't see any responses. There doesn't seem to be much by way of differences in the specs in the manuals other than slightly different consumption wattage. The 'C' is clearly labelled on the front that it is CD-R/CD-RW compatible. I have yet to find a CD that my deck will not play.

To me it seems a little strange that model numbering is a little off as where there are different versions to get the 'best' set up you probably want the A-H500i, the MD-H500 and the PD-H500C.

From what I can tell, other than the amp none of the other components were significantly better than the 300 series (many seem to have the same innards some use the same service manual) and some decks for the 300 and 100 series were more advanced such as the MD-H100LP & MD-H300LP which were more advanced than either of the MD-H500s.

Any way very happy that I stumbled upon these wonderful little decks.

 

[Theprince_62]

Updates for any that is interested:

Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).

Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.

NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.

Regards,
Claudiu M.

Updates for any that is interested:

Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).

Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.

NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.

Regards,
Claudiu M.

Hi Claudiu,
i got an A-H500i and i have a little problem,
when i use the selector to change CD - MD -TAPE - PHONO - TUNER - AUX it happens that i hear a (click) from a position to the other. I use the headphone and the (click) does not depends from the volume, so even at zero.
Same happens to the Source - Off - Tape - Md
What do you think? How could resolve it?
Thx