Teac Reference Series

T

Theprince_62

Enthusiast
Updates for any that is interested:

Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).

Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.

NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.

Regards,
Claudiu M.
Updates for any that is interested:

Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).

Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.

NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.

Regards,
Claudiu M.
Hi Claudiu,
i got an A-H500i and i have a little problem,
when i use the selector to change CD - MD -TAPE - PHONO - TUNER - AUX it happens that i hear a (click) from a position to the other. I use the headphone and the (click) does not depends from the volume, so even at zero.
Same happens to the Source - Off - Tape - Md
What do you think? How could resolve it?
Thx
 
claman

claman

Enthusiast
Hi,

Unfortunatly the same is with mine and cannot find the source of this. My guess is because of those pot selectors being old/used but cannot bet on this. But for me this is not a problem as i keep it fixed, i have one ext source.
From what I read potentiometers/switch/selectors may degrade in time. For this you should consult a specialist if it bothers you that much.

regards,
Claudiu
 
T

Theprince_62

Enthusiast
Hi,

Unfortunatly the same is with mine and cannot find the source of this. My guess is because of those pot selectors being old/used but cannot bet on this. But for me this is not a problem as i keep it fixed, i have one ext source.
From what I read potentiometers/switch/selectors may degrade in time. For this you should consult a specialist if it bothers you that much.

regards,
Claudiu
Thx for answer, but i forget to say i use the RC, so it happens without to turn the potentiometer..... there is the IC 72 (Anam) who is responsable about those functions, but it can't be tested easly. I checked the cap C701, but is ok (C701 =918 uF ESR= 0,42 ohm Vloss= 2,5%).... somebody said to check also the transistors Q501 and Q502, but i still have to test them...
 
M

matthewmilesuk

Audiophyte
Hi All

I know this is a fairly old (but well maintained!) thread. I’ve just started to collect the 500 reference series myself and have been really happy with the elements I’ve purchased so far!

Whilst I’ve been specifically buying known good units, I had a bargain recently (well, in modern terms - seems I’m late to the party buying these units). Unfortunately, this meant a couple of the separates aren’t fully working. Any ideas as to what needs to be replaced?

A-H500i Amp
- Sounds great from the left channel. The right channel is VERY feint, intermittent and ‘clicky’. Not sure if any components are failing and need to be replaced?

R-H500 cassette deck
The tray opens well (needs a new belt), but the mechanism doesn’t engage when the drawer closes - the motor engages, but the spindles don’t. Think it might be a cog underneath? The belt on the bottom of the transport is fine from what I can see.

Does anyone know a good repair shop in/around London or somewhere I could courier to?

I’ve also managed to locate a copy of the 2001 Teac brochure which covers the series of products - I’ve not found this online anywhere. Would anyone like a copy?

Cheers

Matt
 
F

FunBoyThree

Audiophyte
Glad I found this forum! Can anyone advise what type of cables I need to connect up the remote ports on my newly acquired A-300 mk 2 amp and md-300 minidisc and tape decks? Can normal phono RCA cables be used? Thanks in advance!
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Glad I found this forum! Can anyone advise what type of cables I need to connect up the remote ports on my newly acquired A-300 mk 2 amp and md-300 minidisc and tape decks? Can normal phono RCA cables be used? Thanks in advance!
They appear to be standard RCA connectors so I would think so, yes. As long as the centre conductor is thick enough to handle the current but typically remote triggers are only 12V connections.
 
J

jmi

Audiophyte
Hi !
I'm new here, and happy I've found that thread.
I own a A-H500i for about 10 years. I'm far from being an expert in audio gear, but I remember reading reviews at the time, and it seemed to me it was a nice deal (got it for 50€ at the time).

A few weeks ago I started to have an issue: it kinds of randomly powers on. When it does, it works as always. But it's just like if it had to get some rest before being re-powering it on after I power it off (though the behaviour is not that clear). I must add that I use this thing almost daily for years...

My first guess was that the power button could have a contact issue, but I know nothing about electronics.
Does anyone experienced this kind of behaviour ?

I also have a side question: I couldn't figure out the class of this amplifier. I guess it's an A/B but couldn't confirm that. As the power consumption is announced to be 360W, I'd prefer it not to be a class A (if I understand it well a 360W class A amplifier would consume 360W in continue as soon as powered up, is that right ?)

Thanks !
 
J

jlindsey86

Audioholic Intern
This thread has made for a great read! Recently my Teac cd player died. Does anyone have a minty PD-H570 they would be willing to part with along with a DV-H550?
 
R

RobPotts

Audiophyte
Hi
I know this is a really old machine, but has anyone paired the AH-500 amp with KEF LS50 metas? Is it worth it or should I really upgrade my amp as well?
Cheers
Rob
 
ban25

ban25

Audioholic
Hi
I know this is a really old machine, but has anyone paired the AH-500 amp with KEF LS50 metas? Is it worth it or should I really upgrade my amp as well?
Cheers
Rob
Try it first. I would hazard a guess that it's a bit under-powered, so it depends on how loud you want to listen. If it doesn't get loud enough for you, then replace the amp.
 

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