S
sprimblop
Audiophyte
I've just bought a Teac A-H500i amplifier thanks to this thread, and I love it. So thank you!
What are you running it on?I've just bought a Teac A-H500i amplifier thanks to this thread, and I love it. So thank you!
It's on a desk.What are you running it on?
I haven't been told, so I very much doubt it, but it sounds great.Do you know if it has had the capacitors replaced?
According to the manual found here:Hi, I have Teac AV-H500 and TEAC PD-H570, this CD player only reads original CDs, is that normal? If I insert a recorded CD in the PC, it does nothing, it does not play it.
ThanksAccording to the manual found here:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1932023/Teac-Pd-H570.html?page=4#manual
it can only play discs with a D marking and nothing else.
I've heard good things about the Arylic S10. You can stream Bluetooth, Airplay or have it connect directly to a music service via WiFi or Ethernet cable. Connect the S10 to the Aux or CD RCA inputs with the supplied cable.Hi Claudiu M.,
Would you please be so kind to share the type of Bluetooth adapter you used for your TEAC and how you connect it ? After living abroad for years I have pulled my TEAC 500 out of the boxes and would like to adapt it for the fact I don’t really use CD’s anymore and mostly want to listen to online music.
Thank you very much !
i went with an 'fx audio' chinese bluetooth box for about $50 with optical, digital coax and rca output. i use the digital coax with it and the sound quality is good over the phone or tablet. i even tied it with my mogabi rca and that wasnt much worse than the digital output. Stay away from the cheap under $10 rca only adapters.Hi Claudiu M.,
Would you please be so kind to share the type of Bluetooth adapter you used for your TEAC and how you connect it ? After living abroad for years I have pulled my TEAC 500 out of the boxes and would like to adapt it for the fact I don’t really use CD’s anymore and mostly want to listen to online music.
Thank you very much !
It's on a desk.
The input is a desktop DAC and the output is a transformer going into Stax Sigma Pro headphones.
I haven't been told, so I very much doubt it, but it sounds great.
Updates for any that is interested:
Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).
Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.
NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.
Regards,
Claudiu M.
Hi Claudiu,Updates for any that is interested:
Changed the caps captured in below image:
- 1st row with 4 brown Silmic II 220uF/35V are the decoupling caps for preamp
- the 4 smaller Silmic II's 100uF/35V are the output capacitors for power supply
- the rest of them are Panasonic FMs 100uF/50V and 100uF/25V are use in bypass capacitors for accessory power supply and the microcontroller bypass ones
- the red Wima's are bypass film caps
View attachment 42314
Immediate results:
1. The volume is increasing more linearly . Previously the volume would increase too fast with volume know being rotated.
2. Sound - I can't feel too much of a difference, but bass seems more deep and accurate. Waiting a while for the caps to settle in (burn in as other would say).
Next step would be changing the resistors in preamp section, because while removing the board I could see that those resistors were being stressed and board got darker in that area. Also noted that the bypass 0.022 uF which I replaced with Wima, were almost cooked. They just broke into pieces when removed.
NOTE: As compared to the replaced caps on the amp boards, these caps were in specs. I have opened one and still could see electrolyte inside. But those on the amp boards were way off the specs, and ended on the dumpster.
Regards,
Claudiu M.