The Audyssey MultEQ Editor app users thread (with facts and tips)

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IMWhizzle

Audioholic Intern
Yesterday I did a fresh run. I’ve decided to put the phase on my back subwoofer on 180 degrees. I couldn’t believe the response I now have. I also tweaked the response with the ratbuddy app and the result is mindblowing.

So my findings are that if you use a back sub, one can put it on 180 degrees. When I used the 0 degrees setting I always had a huge dip between 20 and 40 hz. It was not fixable after checking with REW and using the sub distance tweak. Now it’s flat, and I can’t believe what I missed all this time in terms of bass definition. It’s a sonic bliss now.

Response after Audy call:


Response after tweak with Ratbuddy (3db house curve, and DEQ off):


By the way, I did limit the correction to 500hz on all 9 speakers. Beautiful!
 
C

CoolHandDuke

Junior Audioholic
From what I can see in those graphs, you are in good shape, and the suggestions in my posts to Reckel would apply to you as well but only in terms of the strategy, that is, use cuts only, and use the REW curve to figure where to apply the cuts using the App and Ratbuddyssey.

Multi eq app | Page 18 | Audioholics Home Theater Forums

If you aim for around 80 dB, you only need to apply cuts using Ratbuddyssey and you should be able to end up with a very flat curve. After that you can slope the deep bass range to you liking. Yes you have a dip at around 60 Hz, and you can try to boost it by a couple dB and see what happens. It may not work and may even make things worse, if that's the case then just leave it alone as there won't be anything Audyssey can do to improve it further. Cuts almost always work, but you have to watch for balance with the >200 Hz range after applying cuts. In your case you likely won't need to do anything because your below 200 Hz range happens to be well elevated anyway to begin with.

You seem to be getting too much drop from 10 KHz, you may want to try playing with the toe in angle.
Thank you again. I repositioned my sub last night. Moving it all around the room and measuring the low frequencies. Found a better position at the front of the space where the 60hz null dissipated significantly, at the cost of it being a little less flat from 20-50 (still peaks though, not severe dips).

The measurements you were looking at are with toe in where drivers were pointed almost directly at mic (slightly behind). Mic was pointed center between speakers. Listening Position is about 7-8' back and speakers are 7' apart. Could too much toe in cause issues in that 10-20k? I also wonder if that roll off is just room issues and measuring from further out.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Thank you again. I repositioned my sub last night. Moving it all around the room and measuring the low frequencies. Found a better position at the front of the space where the 60hz null dissipated significantly, at the cost of it being a little less flat from 20-50 (still peaks though, not severe dips).

The measurements you were looking at are with toe in where drivers were pointed almost directly at mic (slightly behind). Mic was pointed center between speakers. Listening Position is about 7-8' back and speakers are 7' apart. Could too much toe in cause issues in that 10-20k? I also wonder if that roll off is just room issues and measuring from further out.
It just does not look right to me with that kind of roll off especially for a short 8 ft distance as the R162 supposedly has reasonably good off axis response. Does the curve look like that too with fixed smoothing of say 1/12th? You may also try removing the grille in case they may be the problem.

Note that if you prefer the so called "warm sounding" kind of signature then you may be good the way it is already.:) Almost forgot, did you plot those graphs using the reference curve or flat. If reference, you can try flat and you should get less drop off in the highs. Audyssey used to say the flat can be used in a smaller room, otherwise stick with reference. That obviously should not have made a difference if you set the EQ limit to <300 Hz (I thought you mentioned something like that), but in that case please double to make sure you have not forgotten to set the limit to both speakers.

Below is what ASR found:

Infinity R162 Bookshelf Speaker Review | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum


1607951516477.png
 
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CoolHandDuke

Junior Audioholic
It just does not look right to me with that kind of roll off especially for a short 8 ft distance as the R162 supposedly has reasonably good off axis response. Does the curve look like that too with fixed smoothing of say 1/12th? You may also try removing the grille in case they may be the problem.

Note that if you prefer the so called "warm sounding" kind of signature then you may be good the way it is already.:) Almost forgot, did you plot those graphs using the reference curve or flat. If reference, you can try flat and you should get less drop off in the highs. Audyssey used to say the flat can be used in a smaller room, otherwise stick with reference. That obviously should not have made a difference if you set the EQ limit to <300 Hz (I thought you mentioned something like that), but in that case please double to make sure you have not forgotten to set the limit to both speakers.

Below is what ASR found:

Infinity R162 Bookshelf Speaker Review | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum


View attachment 42642
The measurements were actually for the new Sierra 1s, but same thing applies. MultEQ only allows me to set frequency range for "Front". I don't think it breaks down left and right when I drag the limit line.

The room was also measured "as is" and I do have a coffee table that is kind of in the line of fire. Curves were plotted using reference (below 300hz).
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
The measurements were actually for the new Sierra 1s, but same thing applies. MultEQ only allows me to set frequency range for "Front". I don't think it breaks down left and right when I drag the limit line.

The room was also measured "as is" and I do have a coffee table that is kind of in the line of fire. Curves were plotted using reference (below 300hz).
I thought you were using Ratbuddyssey with the App.
 
C

CoolHandDuke

Junior Audioholic
I thought you were using Ratbuddyssey with the App.
When I first did calibration, I changed the EQ on the Audyssey app to 300 limit. Then I sent that for to Ratbuddyssey. I attempted to apply the cuts to the sub channel, then sent back to receiver. When I did another sweep, the sub basically wasn't generating any sound anymore so I just reverted back to original calibration until I figured out what I did incorrectly. The only setting I changed was the crossover setting of the sub on RB. When I sent it to RB, it displayed the sub had a crossover of 40hz, which I didn't understand. I changed it to "U". That was the only thing I altered (along with frequency cuts and boosts) before sending back to AVR.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
When I first did calibration, I changed the EQ on the Audyssey app to 300 limit. Then I sent that for to Ratbuddyssey. I attempted to apply the cuts to the sub channel, then sent back to receiver. When I did another sweep, the sub basically wasn't generating any sound anymore so I just reverted back to original calibration until I figured out what I did incorrectly. The only setting I changed was the crossover setting of the sub on RB. When I sent it to RB, it displayed the sub had a crossover of 40hz, which I didn't understand. I changed it to "U". That was the only thing I altered (along with frequency cuts and boosts) before sending back to AVR.
It doesn't look like you were using Ratbuddssey then, because if you did, after you made your changes with it, you have to copy/or send the saved .ady file to the MultEQ Editor App on whatever mobile devices you are using and then you open the file on your mobile devices with the App to see that the changes are there. Then you send the file to the AVR. You can't send the file direct from RB, RB is just an user interface, everything is still done in the App.

Did you look at the screenshots of RB I posted in some of the earlier posts in this thread.
 
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CoolHandDuke

Junior Audioholic
It doesn't look like you were using Ratbuddssey then, because if you did, after you made your changes with it, you have to copy/or send the saved .ady file to the MultEQ Editor App on whatever mobile devices you are using and then you open the file on your mobile devices with the App to see that the changes are there. Then you send the file to the AVR. You can't send the file direct from RB, RB is just an user interface, everything is still done in the App.

Did you look at the screenshots of RB I posted in some of the earlier posts in this thread.
I used your screen shots as my guide. Apologies if I omitted that, but I did upload the file from RB to Google Drive, then grabbed that file on the App, verified the points added to the curve, then uploaded to AVR.

I will probably just need to try again, document the screen shots, and show each step of what I did so I can find where I went wrong.
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Spartan
This reminds me. I need to measure the room again with REW now that I've got the 4 subs all getting their RMS power instead of lower. Audyssey in Ratbuddyssey looks pretty good, but I want to validate with REW and tweak where needed. Hopefully it won't be much.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Warlord
@PENG
I was trying to catch up on this, but my eyelids are winning...lol
During my quick look over, I didn’t notice if coolhandduke was turning off Audyssey before moving and sweeping. If he’s sweeping with an old calibration, while moving his speaker, his sweeps will be useless no? If I’m out in the weeds, disregard .
Time or bed.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I used your screen shots as my guide. Apologies if I omitted that, but I did upload the file from RB to Google Drive, then grabbed that file on the App, verified the points added to the curve, then uploaded to AVR.

I will probably just need to try again, document the screen shots, and show each step of what I did so I can find where I went wrong.
Then you are doing it right! But then I don't understand why you have trouble selecting the front left and right channel individually, after editing the subwoofer.

Take a look of the screenshot I posted to try and help Reckel on his thread:

Multi eq app | Page 16 | Audioholics Home Theater Forums

You can clearly see at the upper left corner that you can select L, and R individually to apply the cuts/boosts.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
@PENG
I was trying to catch up on this, but my eyelids are winning...lol
During my quick look over, I didn’t notice if coolhandduke was turning off Audyssey before moving and sweeping. If he’s sweeping with an old calibration, while moving his speaker, his sweeps will be useless no? If I’m out in the weeds, disregard .
Time or bed.
That's possible, been there done that too, but only he knows..
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Warlord
That's possible, been there done that too, but only he knows..
Should’ve asked him I guess!!! Lol
I’ve done that too. 80 sweeps in and wondering why it’s not adding up. Then the light comes on. Ugh.....
 
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CoolHandDuke

Junior Audioholic
That's possible, been there done that too, but only he knows..
Sorry for delay in response. I did not touch the left and right channel when I made the adjustments. Perhaps that's where I'm screwing up. For instance, my 30hz cut I only applied to subwoofer. In fact, all the adjustments I made to the subwoofer.

If, for instance, I'm making a cut of 1.5db at 50hz, do I need to make a cut to sub, LF, and RF? Is it contingent on my crossover? I only measured my system as a whole, not individual when using REW.

On a side note, in order to spare the wife, I'm moving my system up to the spare bedroom. So I'm in the process of getting things up there and then I'll try this again. Seems to have good dimensions for the use and may be able to build a few acoustic panels as a little DIY project.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Sorry for delay in response. I did not touch the left and right channel when I made the adjustments. Perhaps that's where I'm screwing up. For instance, my 30hz cut I only applied to subwoofer. In fact, all the adjustments I made to the subwoofer.

If, for instance, I'm making a cut of 1.5db at 50hz, do I need to make a cut to sub, LF, and RF? Is it contingent on my crossover? I only measured my system as a whole, not individual when using REW.

On a side note, in order to spare the wife, I'm moving my system up to the spare bedroom. So I'm in the process of getting things up there and then I'll try this again. Seems to have good dimensions for the use and may be able to build a few acoustic panels as a little DIY project.
If you "touch" the L/R at below 80 Hz +/-, it would likely take a much longer time if your goal is a really flat FR, but depending on the current FR, you can make a judgment on where to begin making adjustments to the FL and FR, for example, 100, or 120 Hz (well clear the XO point) or as high as 150 Hz etc., where they play a good part, and where your sub may start to drop off a little quicker. I think it is more a trial and error thing, that's why it would likely take a long time. If you are fine with +/- 3 dB 20-200 Hz then it shouldn't take much time.

At the end of the day, I don't think there will be much audible difference, for low frequencies imo it isn't hard to get pass the point of diminishing return. People are just too prone to hearing things mostly because they are influenced by price, specs and measurements and I believe 90% or more will be shocked if they ever experience AB comparison listening DBTs.
 
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panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Spartan
Should’ve asked him I guess!!! Lol
I’ve done that too. 80 sweeps in and wondering why it’s not adding up. Then the light comes on. Ugh.....
Wait...what?

Are you saying that if we do a sweep and have a current Audyssey calibration enabled it will measure what's calibrated and not start over with new data?
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Warlord
Wait...what?

Are you saying that if we do a sweep and have a current Audyssey calibration enabled it will measure what's calibrated and not start over with new data?
Lol. Grasshoppah, you vewy smaht!
I know. That was rhetorical but had to answer anyway...
 
L

LenniePaz

Audiophyte
I have the Denon x4300h, and I just added a second sub to my 5.1.2 setup. Would this app be better for a dual sub setup, or is the Audyssey on the receiver good enough?
 
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ParisB

Audioholic
I have the Denon x4300h, and I just added a second sub to my 5.1.2 setup. Would this app be better for a dual sub setup, or is the Audyssey on the receiver good enough?
The app wouldn't give you any benefits specific to dual subs. That would rely on the Audyssey XT32 the same, whether you run it from the app or straight from AVR. I would still recommend the app though due to its useful features and customization.
 
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LenniePaz

Audiophyte
The app wouldn't give you any benefits specific to dual subs. That would rely on the Audyssey XT32 the same, whether you run it from the app or straight from AVR. I would still recommend the app though due to its useful features and customization.
Okay, thanks! I'm just a little intimidated, because I've never worked with curves before, and I know that's one of the main benefits of the app. I've seen terms like "house curve", and "harman curve", and I have no idea what they are.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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