The Audyssey MultEQ Editor app users thread (with facts and tips)

[PENG]

Thank you for your reply. I would need to eat a substantial shipping and restocking fee in addition to the extra cost of the machine. I see that that XT does not sample at nearly as many points as XT32. However, if I'm using the app (and the PC Ratbudyssey), am I also limited in the curve corrections I can apply?

In my opinion, you can still likely be able to get very similar results if you use the App and Ratbuddyssey it would likely take more effort and longer obviously. The difference between the two version is just the resolution, so the one with much lower resolution will naturally be less accurate, and even with the App, it will take more trial and error, to get the same results.

Also, imo, let's say XT32+App+Rat get help you achieve +/-2 dB 20-120 Hz, and XT+App+Rat only +/-3.5 dB, I highly doubt anyone can hear a difference, but they can definitely see the difference by plotting the FR with REW. So it boils down to a theoretical better vs a practically no difference.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Here is the $799 price on the Denon 3600. It's the lowest price I have found:

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Thank you for this. I got the 2600 for 550USD from A4L as a refurb. I don't think their return policy is very generous and includes a restocking fee in addition to the shipping costs. I will need to consider this since the 2600 was already a sizeable upgrade (for my system and budget).

 

[CoolHandDuke]

In my opinion, you can still likely be able to get very similar results if you use the App and Ratbuddyssey it would likely take more effort and longer obviously. The difference between the two version is just the resolution, so the one with much lower resolution will naturally be less accurate, and even with the App, it will take more trial and error, to get the same results.

Also, imo, let's say XT32+App+Rat get help you achieve +/-2 dB 20-120 Hz, and XT+App+Rat only +/-3.5 dB, I highly doubt anyone can hear a difference, but they can definitely see the difference by plotting the FR with REW. So it boils down to a theoretical better vs a practically no difference.

This is great news then. I am not in a position where I am looking for perfection. I only have one (albeit quality) sub in a weird room and my speakers are entry level, so I think I'd be kidding myself if I expected totally flat response across the board. I would just like having something to tinker with, a goal to aim for, and the means to make the adjustments.

From what I've read here, to get started I would need:

• UMIK (I understand this can just plug into my laptop's USB port? )
• Boom or tripod
• REW software
• Audyssey MultEQ app (already have)
• Ratbudyssey (allows me to make exact changes to gains/cuts at specific frequencies)
• Time and patience

Thank you again.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

I have ordered a UMIK, but hoping to get some clarification on the process as a whole. As I understand it, it would go something like this:

1. Work on speaker and sub positioning. I imagine I should set up REW with UMIK (I know there's some good YT vids). Measure each speaker and the sub individually? Find best response for sub location based on REW? Use this to find appropriate crossover from mains?
2. Run Audyssey calibration well (I have XT)
3. Run sweep on REW using Audyssey calibration. Do I Run all speakers and sub at this point? Or separate?
4. I'm a bit confused at what house curves are, but it seems the consensus is one that starts higher in loudness at low frequency and gradually descends towards high frequencies
5. Set a target SPL where I'll be doing mostly cuts and not boosts
6. Use a spreadsheet to calculate differences from ideal curve to actually
7. Input the corrections into Ratbudyssey
8. Load this back on AVR
9. Measure again with REW sweep to see actual response

I think what's most confusing to me is whether I'm measuring the 2.1 as a whole or separate entities. Lots of good info here and other resources, but I'm trying to make it cohesive for someone like me since I feel a bit out of my depth.

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Here's my first measurement from 10-200hz (post Audyssey calibration). I had reorganized my living room today and repositioned my sub. This is using variable smoothing. I think it looks pretty good for a starting point.

Do you think 78ish dB would be a good place to EQ to? I have some new floor standers on the way, so may wait until those are hooked up, but I'm excited about the low end response I'm getting with just one sub.

 

[PENG]

Here's my first measurement from 10-200hz (post Audyssey calibration). I had reorganized my living room today and repositioned my sub. This is using variable smoothing. I think it looks pretty good for a starting point.

Do you think 78ish dB would be a good place to EQ to? I have some new floor standers on the way, so may wait until those are hooked up, but I'm excited about the low end response I'm getting with just one sub.

70 to 78 would be fine. Is that curve for the subwoofer only, or with the front left and right speakers? If it is for L+R+S, what's the crossover set to?

Regardless, it looks good but I would prefer to no smoothing for 20-200 Hz, not var smoothing, just for the purpose of identifying what can be done to improve.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

70 to 78 would be fine. Is that curve for the subwoofer only, or with the front left and right speakers? If it is for L+R+S, what's the crossover set to?

Regardless, it looks good but I would prefer to no smoothing for 20-200 Hz, not var smoothing, just for the purpose of identifying what can be done to improve.

This was L+R+S. Crossover is set to 80hz currently. I will try to take more measurements today if there's time. Took me awhile to get everything set up for the first time and learn to use REW and UMIK.

 

[PENG]

This was L+R+S. Crossover is set to 80hz currently. I will try to take more measurements today if there's time. Took me awhile to get everything set up for the first time and learn to use REW and UMIK.

Okay thanks, again, it looks really good for a first attempt. You can easily improve it (at least on paper) if you spend some time playing with the App+Ratbuddssey. I suggested that to someone else recently as you probably know, and he did get very decent result.

On the other hand, what you have seems good enough to not waste any time playing around; and focus on enjoying the music. Though I think you may prefer the sound if you increase the sub level by about 3 dB.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Okay thanks, again, it looks really good for a first attempt. You can easily improve it (at least on paper) if you spend some time playing with the App+Ratbuddssey. I suggested that to someone else recently as you probably know, and he did get very decent result.

On the other hand, what you have seems good enough to not waste any time playing around; and focus on enjoying the music. Though I think you may prefer the sound if you increase the sub level by about 3 dB.

I already downloaded Ratbuddyssey and will play around a bit. I may end up using DEQ as my "house curve" like another user on here and just EQ the low end flat for reference. Fun getting a little bit more into this hobby.

I just ordered a pair of Triangle Borea BR08s that will arrive next week. I'm starting to have buyers remorse already about not going with a more quality bookshelf rather than a floor stander. The Triangles were on sale from 1400/pair to 800. I was debating between those and some Ascend Sierra 1s that are on sale and local to me.

 

[PENG]

I already downloaded Ratbuddyssey and will play around a bit. I may end up using DEQ as my "house curve" like another user on here and just EQ the low end flat for reference. Fun getting a little bit more into this hobby.

I just ordered a pair of Triangle Borea BR08s that will arrive next week. I'm starting to have buyers remorse already about not going with a more quality bookshelf rather than a floor stander. The Triangles were on sale from 1400/pair to 800. I was debating between those and some Ascend Sierra 1s that are on sale and local to me.

Since you mentioned bookshelf, the best speakers I have heard under $3,000 are Dennis Murphy's BMRs. You can still buy them from Salk but the price has gone up since they have them. When Mr. Murphy was still in business, I believe they were also about $1,400 a pair. At that price I dare say nothing beats them in terms of sound quality.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Since you mentioned bookshelf, the best speakers I have heard under $3,000 are Dennis Murphy's BMRs. You can still buy them from Salk but the price has gone up since they have them. When Mr. Murphy was still in business, I believe they were also about $1,400 a pair. At that price I dare say nothing beats them in terms of sound quality.

I've heard such good things about them. Seems like Salk upped the price quite substantially, but times change. Ascend offers a kit to upgrade the Sierra 1 to the Sierra 2 EX. So maybe that's a good starting point for me. I'll pick them up this week. I'll need to decide whether to demo the Triangles to compare, send back and eat shipping, or try selling locally since I got them at a deep discount.

 

[PENG]

I've heard such good things about them. Seems like Salk upped the price quite substantially, but times change. Ascend offers a kit to upgrade the Sierra 1 to the Sierra 2 EX. So maybe that's a good starting point for me. I'll pick them up this week. I'll need to decide whether to demo the Triangles to compare, send back and eat shipping, or try selling locally since I got them at a deep discount.

Just a fyi, apparently Dennis/Phiharmonicsaudio.com is back!! $1,700 a pair for the regular finish, only $300 increase from a few years ago, and it comes with an improved woofer. It is not just my subjective impression that they sound so good, I measured them too. Audioholics also measured them, you can search and see the fantastic measurements.

Philharmonic Audio

Philharmonic Audio BMR Philharmonitor Measurements & Conclusion | Audioholics

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Just a fyi, apparently Dennis/Phiharmonicsaudio.com is back!! $1,700 a pair for the regular finish, only $300 increase from a few years ago, and it comes with an improved woofer. It is not just my subjective impression that they sound so good, I measured them too. Audioholics also measured them, you can search and see the fantastic measurements.

Philharmonic Audio

Philharmonic Audio BMR Philharmonitor Measurements & Conclusion | Audioholics

That's great to hear. I will see how the Sierra 1s do for right now. At $675/pair with the sale, they seem like a logical upgrade for me into a true reference speaker. Perhaps when the upgrade bug hits me again, these might be the next step. Glad to hear he's back at it.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Quick question: when I'm using Ratbuddysey, am I applying the filters to the subwoofer only? I'm planning on EQing below 200hz. Or do you do a combo of LF, RF, SW. I have a 2.1 system.

 

[PENG]

Quick question: when I'm using Ratbuddysey, am I applying the filters to the subwoofer only? I'm planning on EQing below 200hz. Or do you do a combo of LF, RF, SW. I have a 2.1 system.

You can apply them to any channel of your choice. I don't know what you meant by "do a combo" but if you meant to apply additional data points to each of the L, R and W channels then yes, do it. Audyssey will create the necessary filters for the best EQ'ed results and integrate the L,R and S better you can do manually.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

You can apply them to any channel of your choice. I don't know what you meant by "do a combo" but if you meant to apply additional data points to each of the L, R and W channels then yes, do it. Audyssey will create the necessary filters for the best EQ'ed results and integrate the L,R and S better you can do manually.

Does that mean I should be measuring and EQing each channel separately? I attempted to EQ below 120hz yesterday (mostly cuts) on the subwoofer channel and something went wrong. When I uploaded back to AVR I lost nearly all low frequency (15-40). Just totally dropped off. I'll look again today, but it's frustrating.

I set up the new Sierra 1s and tried to find the best positions but getting some relatively sharp drop offs at 200 and 300ish. I will take measurements later and post them. I'm limited in how far I can pull these out from the wall. My last calibration with my old speakers looked better. I may need to recalibrate for a better starting point. I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. Not looking anywhere for perfection but would like to see some of the bad peaks and dips go away.

 

[PG55]

Greetings,

I am considering upgrading from my Monitor Audio silver 300s to the MA Gold 300's. I love the 300's however they seem a little bright and the bass tends to lose its sharpness at higher volumes. I have a fairly large room (20X20X13 high)and hoping the larger 8 inch woofers will give me more depth and fill out the room better. I have a Hsu VTF 3MK5 15 inch Sub and wonder if the larger Gold 300 floor stander will even make a difference since I crossover at 80Hz.

If you have them or have any experience with them I would appreciate your feedback. I also have the Silver C350 Center Channel I would like to keep if it is compatible with the Gold 300's.

Thanks
PG55

 

[PENG]

Does that mean I should be measuring and EQing each channel separately? I attempted to EQ below 120hz yesterday (mostly cuts) on the subwoofer channel and something went wrong. When I uploaded back to AVR I lost nearly all low frequency (15-40). Just totally dropped off. I'll look again today, but it's frustrating.

I set up the new Sierra 1s and tried to find the best positions but getting some relatively sharp drop offs at 200 and 300ish. I will take measurements later and post them. I'm limited in how far I can pull these out from the wall. My last calibration with my old speakers looked better. I may need to recalibrate for a better starting point. I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. Not looking anywhere for perfection but would like to see some of the bad peaks and dips go away.

Using the App with or without Ratbuddyssey you will be editing EQ to each channel separately anyway.

 

[CoolHandDuke]

Using the App with or without Ratbuddyssey you will be editing EQ to each channel separately anyway.

I think I'm understanding more. In that case I would need to measure L and R separately to see where to make the necessary adjustments.

Today I repositioned my Sierra 1s. I initially had them 1.5 feet out from the wall. When I measured them, I was getting some pretty big nulls. I moved them around until I had the best looking (to my eye). This actually ended up being just a few inches from the front wall. I have been told not to do this, but I figured I'd let the measurements dictate for the moment. Perhaps I'm better off using my ears instead of measurements? Does feel like I lose depth of soundstage.

After the repositioning, I ran MultEQ again (300hz and under) and ran some measurements. I've attached them here. First is 10-200 with variable smoothing, second is 15-300 no smoothing, and last is full range with variable smoothing.

Not sure what to think.

 

[PENG]

I think I'm understanding more. In that case I would need to measure L and R separately to see where to make the necessary adjustments.

Today I repositioned my Sierra 1s. I initially had them 1.5 feet out from the wall. When I measured them, I was getting some pretty big nulls. I moved them around until I had the best looking (to my eye). This actually ended up being just a few inches from the front wall. I have been told not to do this, but I figured I'd let the measurements dictate for the moment. Perhaps I'm better off using my ears instead of measurements? Does feel like I lose depth of soundstage.

After the repositioning, I ran MultEQ again (300hz and under) and ran some measurements. I've attached them here. First is 10-200 with variable smoothing, second is 15-300 no smoothing, and last is full range with variable smoothing.

Not sure what to think.

From what I can see in those graphs, you are in good shape, and the suggestions in my posts to Reckel would apply to you as well but only in terms of the strategy, that is, use cuts only, and use the REW curve to figure where to apply the cuts using the App and Ratbuddyssey.

Multi eq app | Page 18 | Audioholics Home Theater Forums

If you aim for around 80 dB, you only need to apply cuts using Ratbuddyssey and you should be able to end up with a very flat curve. After that you can slope the deep bass range to you liking. Yes you have a dip at around 60 Hz, and you can try to boost it by a couple dB and see what happens. It may not work and may even make things worse, if that's the case then just leave it alone as there won't be anything Audyssey can do to improve it further. Cuts almost always work, but you have to watch for balance with the >200 Hz range after applying cuts. In your case you likely won't need to do anything because your below 200 Hz range happens to be well elevated anyway to begin with.

You seem to be getting too much drop from 10 KHz, you may want to try playing with the toe in angle.