moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
The sub in to the Amps is RCA to RCA. If your bridging this video discusses the pinouts from the amp to the sub. It's very easy just take your time and double check as you dont want to fry either
Love how this guy speaks...
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Otoh don't think four pole at amp end is a concern unless bridging but am just on the phone and will confirm later...
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Ok I got all that cleared in my brain thanks to you gents....

Another important thing to know for those who are learning as I am is that if you are using a mini DSP with 2 subwoofers and your AVR only has 1 subwoofer output then you don't need to buy an RCA Y splitter because the miniDSP acts as a splitter. It'll save you a whopping 10 bucks.
 
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moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Otoh don't think four pole at amp end is a concern unless bridging but am just on the phone and will confirm later...
Let the games begin. 2X18-22 Drivers, @ XLS 1502a, Blue Jean cables )100 feet of speaker cables, 15 feet of AV cable and another pair of 2 footers for connecting the amp to the minidsp, connectors....

Now all I need to do is build the cabinets. Stay tuned..... Thanks for getting me this far guys....
IMG_20180929_194434.jpg
 
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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Let the games begin. 2X18-22 Drivers, @ XLS 1502a, Blue Jean cables )100 feet of speaker cables, 15 feet of AV cable and another pair of 2 footers for connecting the amp to the minidsp, connectors....

Now all I need to do is build the cabinets. Stay tuned..... Thanks for getting me this far guys.... View attachment 25968
Congrats! Looking at your cables gotta wonder which miniDSP unit you got?
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Congrats! Looking at your cables gotta wonder which miniDSP unit you got?
So I got cabinet plans from Solen (the place that I bought the drivers) for the UM18-22 and the internal cubic footage in the plans is 3.86 cubic feet. I asked them about not including bracing in the calculation and they recommended that I add 10% to the cubic footage to account for bracing. 10% + 3.86 cu/ft = 4.25 cu/ft... If I add an inch to the L W H that is in the original recommended dimensions, the cabinet would be 22X22X22.5 inches.... cubic footage = 4.51 cu/ft.

My question is: Should I add an inch all around of get closer to the 4.25 cu/ftage? I am thinking not but thought I'd ask. I am just trying to the best way to accommodate for bracing. I'll be making the braces out of 1 inch spruce plywood 'cause I've read that it's very dense.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
They didn't account for bracing or the driver itself in their calculations? So they advised a net volume or a gross volume internally?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
This is the file they sent me.
Since V(total) is the internal dimensions of the box without allowing for driver or bracing volume, V(b) is allowing for 4 % for something, don't know what.
 
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Audioholic Chief
Since V(total) is the internal dimensions of the box without allowing for driver or bracing volume, V(b) is allowing for 4 % for something, don't know what.
hm not sure either.... I am thinking that 1 inch added to each side would be ok.... Since closed boxes are not as fussy but someone please correct me if I am wrong.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Might ask @TLSGuy, he uses that same software. I also wonder what "fill=heavy" means.

From the PE page for the driver: Sealed (home theater/music): 4 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver) for an f3 of 31 Hz, f10 of 18 Hz with a Qtc of 0.72
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Might ask @TLSGuy, he uses that same software. I also wonder what "fill=heavy" means.

From the PE page for the driver: Sealed (home theater/music): 4 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver) for an f3 of 31 Hz, f10 of 18 Hz with a Qtc of 0.72
Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

Fill heavy means that the box must be totally filled with stuffing without compression. Do not use glue as it makes the stuffing hard. The damping works because of the coefficent of heat of the stuffing, and the box volume is bigger than actually built and Q is lowered. So you will have a box with an acceptable Q around 0.7, but this is not non resonant reproduction and similar to a good ported design. You can however add Eq to this sealed design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.

Lastly do not add the volume of the stuffing back to the box volume!
 
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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

Fill heavy means that the box must be totally filled with stuffing without compression. Do not use glue as it makes the stuffing hard. The damping works because of the coefficent of heat of the stuffing, and the box volume is bigger than actually built and Q is lowered. So you will have a box with an acceptable Q around 0.7, but this is not non resonant reproduction and similar to a good ported design. You can however add Eq to this ported design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.

Lastly do not add the volume of the stuffing back to the box volume!
Don't see a Vt in the spec he posted....and if it is meant to be V(total) as in the spec, that makes no allowance for the driver.
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

You can however add Eq to this ported design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.
Isn't Vt the Total inside volume NOT taking into account the driver and Vb the inside volume taking into account the driver? In the specs, the Vt (3.864 cu.ft) is larger than the Vb (3.715 cu.ft)...

You said that I can add Eq to this ported design.. but it's not a ported design. it's sealed....

"You need to add back the volume of the bracing" This goes back to my original question, adding an inch to the L W and H would account for bracing and some. Do you think this is ok or should I stick with the exact specs in the file that I posted?
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Don't see a Vt in the spec he posted....and if it is meant to be V(total) as in the spec, that makes no allowance for the driver.
I think Vb makes allowance for the driver since Vb is smaller than Vt...V (total)
 
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