HSU VS JTR

[lovinthehd]

Sorry another question.... Just wondering why you recommended the 4 pole speakon connector when using a 2 pole wire? Wouldn't the https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl2mp and the https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl2fx be more appropriate?

I just need it to fit a 12 AWG speaker cable.

Little difference in cost and has more potential uses down the line...

 

[moves]

The sub in to the Amps is RCA to RCA. If your bridging this video discusses the pinouts from the amp to the sub. It's very easy just take your time and double check as you dont want to fry either

Love how this guy speaks...

 

[moves]

Little difference in cost and has more potential uses down the line...

The crown XLS 1502 also does NOT come with 2 pole female outputs so I need to use the 4 pole connector.

 

[lovinthehd]

The crown XLS 1502 also does NOT come with 2 pole female outputs so I need to use the 4 pole connector.

See?

 

[lovinthehd]

Otoh don't think four pole at amp end is a concern unless bridging but am just on the phone and will confirm later...

 

[moves]

Ok I got all that cleared in my brain thanks to you gents....

Another important thing to know for those who are learning as I am is that if you are using a mini DSP with 2 subwoofers and your AVR only has 1 subwoofer output then you don't need to buy an RCA Y splitter because the miniDSP acts as a splitter. It'll save you a whopping 10 bucks.

 

[moves]

Otoh don't think four pole at amp end is a concern unless bridging but am just on the phone and will confirm later...

Let the games begin. 2X18-22 Drivers, @ XLS 1502a, Blue Jean cables )100 feet of speaker cables, 15 feet of AV cable and another pair of 2 footers for connecting the amp to the minidsp, connectors....

Now all I need to do is build the cabinets. Stay tuned..... Thanks for getting me this far guys....

 

[moves]

Yes, they do: http://www.economik.com/crown/xls-1502/

Got the stuff now gatta put it together... check it out above.. Thanks for your help. I got all the gear from the places that you recommended... Solen and Economik.

 

[lovinthehd]

Let the games begin. 2X18-22 Drivers, @ XLS 1502a, Blue Jean cables )100 feet of speaker cables, 15 feet of AV cable and another pair of 2 footers for connecting the amp to the minidsp, connectors....

Now all I need to do is build the cabinets. Stay tuned..... Thanks for getting me this far guys.... View attachment 25968

Congrats! Looking at your cables gotta wonder which miniDSP unit you got?

 

[moves]

Congrats! Looking at your cables gotta wonder which miniDSP unit you got?

Thanks I got the 2X4HD

 

[moves]

Congrats! Looking at your cables gotta wonder which miniDSP unit you got?

So I got cabinet plans from Solen (the place that I bought the drivers) for the UM18-22 and the internal cubic footage in the plans is 3.86 cubic feet. I asked them about not including bracing in the calculation and they recommended that I add 10% to the cubic footage to account for bracing. 10% + 3.86 cu/ft = 4.25 cu/ft... If I add an inch to the L W H that is in the original recommended dimensions, the cabinet would be 22X22X22.5 inches.... cubic footage = 4.51 cu/ft.

My question is: Should I add an inch all around of get closer to the 4.25 cu/ftage? I am thinking not but thought I'd ask. I am just trying to the best way to accommodate for bracing. I'll be making the braces out of 1 inch spruce plywood 'cause I've read that it's very dense.

 

[lovinthehd]

They didn't account for bracing or the driver itself in their calculations? So they advised a net volume or a gross volume internally?

 

[moves]

They didn't account for bracing or the driver itself in their calculations? So they advised a net volume or a gross volume internally?

This is the file they sent me.

 

[lovinthehd]

This is the file they sent me.

Since V(total) is the internal dimensions of the box without allowing for driver or bracing volume, V(b) is allowing for 4 % for something, don't know what.

 

[moves]

Since V(total) is the internal dimensions of the box without allowing for driver or bracing volume, V(b) is allowing for 4 % for something, don't know what.

hm not sure either.... I am thinking that 1 inch added to each side would be ok.... Since closed boxes are not as fussy but someone please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[lovinthehd]

Might ask @TLSGuy, he uses that same software. I also wonder what "fill=heavy" means.

From the PE page for the driver: Sealed (home theater/music): 4 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver) for an f3 of 31 Hz, f10 of 18 Hz with a Qtc of 0.72

 

[TLS Guy]

Might ask @TLSGuy, he uses that same software. I also wonder what "fill=heavy" means.

From the PE page for the driver: Sealed (home theater/music): 4 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver) for an f3 of 31 Hz, f10 of 18 Hz with a Qtc of 0.72

Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

Fill heavy means that the box must be totally filled with stuffing without compression. Do not use glue as it makes the stuffing hard. The damping works because of the coefficent of heat of the stuffing, and the box volume is bigger than actually built and Q is lowered. So you will have a box with an acceptable Q around 0.7, but this is not non resonant reproduction and similar to a good ported design. You can however add Eq to this sealed design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.

Lastly do not add the volume of the stuffing back to the box volume!

 

[lovinthehd]

Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

Fill heavy means that the box must be totally filled with stuffing without compression. Do not use glue as it makes the stuffing hard. The damping works because of the coefficent of heat of the stuffing, and the box volume is bigger than actually built and Q is lowered. So you will have a box with an acceptable Q around 0.7, but this is not non resonant reproduction and similar to a good ported design. You can however add Eq to this ported design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.

Lastly do not add the volume of the stuffing back to the box volume!

Don't see a Vt in the spec he posted....and if it is meant to be V(total) as in the spec, that makes no allowance for the driver.

 

[moves]

Vt is the inside volume taking into account driver displacement volume. You need to add back the volume of the bracing.

You can however add Eq to this ported design, and you should be able to Eq to 20 Hz, by boosting 6 db per octave below F3.

Isn't Vt the Total inside volume NOT taking into account the driver and Vb the inside volume taking into account the driver? In the specs, the Vt (3.864 cu.ft) is larger than the Vb (3.715 cu.ft)...

You said that I can add Eq to this ported design.. but it's not a ported design. it's sealed....

"You need to add back the volume of the bracing" This goes back to my original question, adding an inch to the L W and H would account for bracing and some. Do you think this is ok or should I stick with the exact specs in the file that I posted?

 

[moves]

Don't see a Vt in the spec he posted....and if it is meant to be V(total) as in the spec, that makes no allowance for the driver.

I think Vb makes allowance for the driver since Vb is smaller than Vt...V (total)