HSU VS JTR

[lovinthehd]

If someone wanted a DSP to go with the Crown XLS 1502 for instance, could a miniDSP do the job with those low frequencies?

Yep, I suggested one earlier in the thread as an alternative. They can handle delay, eq as well as various filters.

 

[moves]

I understand that this mini Marty is a sealed box. What is it's approximate net intenal volume? With your answer, I should be in a position to tell you how low the UM18-22 will reach.

I got my information on this site:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.htmlhttps://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

It is a ported 9.0 cubic foot box.

 

[moves]

Yep, I suggested one earlier in the thread as an alternative. They can handle delay, eq as well as various filters.

What's the learning curve on the mini dsp... i already have the umik

 

[Verdinut]

Yep, I suggested one earlier in the thread as an alternative. They can handle delay, eq as well as various filters.

That would represent a good affordable solution. I now remember having seen a reference to a miniDSP, but I forgot to verify again.

I shall make a more thorough reading from now on. Sorry about this.

 

[moves]

That Crown model does not come with the dsp he needs, though, need to step up the Crown ladder to get that. The dsp in the XLS Drive Core series is more about a crossover for pro use of different monitor/bass bin, particularly no eq and no high pass filter low enough for his needs. The dsp in the Behringer is quite good, though fwiw. The Crown XLS amps are what I use, I have several 1500s (mine are first generation, second gen, i.e. xx02, has different appearance, adjustable sensitivity, adjustable panel light, and a trigger of sorts but same amp section and dsp).

So it comes with DSP but not the type I need? You use a minidsp to configure your SWs eh?

 

[everettT]

If I was to get another minidsp, I'd get the new 2x4 with dirac built in. *starting to ponder now* .

 

[lovinthehd]

If I was to get another minidsp, I'd get the new 2x4 with dirac built in. *starting to ponder now* .

Wow hadn't seen that. That could be interesting. Going to check that out.

 

[Verdinut]

I got my information on this site:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.htmlhttps://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1648673-martysub-faq.html

It is a ported 9.0 cubic foot box.

I agree with you. That's a decent size. You would be able to get an F3 between 17 and 18Hz which is very acceptable.

I would encourage you to build it. That would give you a nice experience. You would be proud to have your famil;y and friends hear the results. The key to a successful box is a lot of glue in all joints, belt type bracing. For the vent pipes, I use the plumbing 4" ABS pipe which is solid and rigid and I use the ecological NomoreNails glue for joining the sections.
For a tuning to 20Hz, you need three 4" pipes with flared ends 28.5 inches long each. You can use one or two elbows per vent if necessary. Elbows come in two types, the one with the bigger radius should be used. That arrangement should be close enough to the optimum settings for the UM18-22.

 

[lovinthehd]

So it comes with DSP but not the type I need? You use a minidsp to configure your SWs eh?

Yep, you need to be able to set up a high pass filter in a much lower range than the XLS provides for, as I said it's more about using a monitor/bass bin setup. I like the XLS amps for reputation, value (I bought during really good sales) and quiet fans, and in conjunction with Audyssey (or sometimes just Audyssey alone, don't bother with my bedroom or workshop setups but rather my 4 sub setup in my living room. I even use them for mains in a 2ch setup, and for subs otherwise.

Also, if you have a Umik you're probably using REW? REW and miniDSP can work with REW. So can the Behringer iNuke DSP amps....

@Verdinut why change the provided design to ported rather than the slot vent?

 

[Verdinut]

Wow hadn't seen that. That could be interesting. Going to check that out.

Yes, I saw that DDRC-88A REQ product and that will be my next acquisition. By the way, Solen carry that miniDSP line.

 

[Verdinut]

Yep, you need to be able to set up a high pass filter in a much lower range than the XLS provides for, as I said it's more about using a monitor/bass bin setup. I like the XLS amps for reputation, value (I bought during really good sales) and quiet fans, and in conjunction with Audyssey (or sometimes just Audyssey alone, don't bother with my bedroom or workshop setups but rather my 4 sub setup in my living room. I even use them for mains in a 2ch setup, and for subs otherwise.

Also, if you have a Umik you're probably using REW? REW and miniDSP can work with REW.

@Verdinut why change the provided design to ported rather than the slot vent?

It's a lot easier to build with pipes than using a slot vent. You have more flexibility with pipes for future adjustments if required.
Dayton also mention 4" pipes in their suggested designs.

 

[moves]

It's a lot easier to build with pipes than using a slot vent. You have more flexibility with pipes for future adjustments if required.
Dayton also mention 4" pipes in their suggested designs.

Not sure why though the vents seem pretty easy to build.

 

[lovinthehd]

Yes, I saw that DDRC-88A REQ product and that will be my next acquisition. By the way, Solen carry that miniDSP line.

He's talking specifically about a 2x4 product with Dirac...the other you mention has been around for a while.

 

[everettT]

https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-24

You can upgrade the HD version for $199 via firmware

 

[Verdinut]

Not sure why though the vents seem pretty easy to build.

When you have a software such as BassBox6 Pro, you can get the info on the duct sizes s without any delay. With slots which need bracing, I find that it becomes more complicated to do calculations. However, IMO ducts require more time for installation but allow easier possibilities such as elbows if a longer vent is needed.

 

[moves]

When you have a software such as BassBox6 Pro, you can get the info on the duct sizes s without any delay. With slots which need bracing, I find that it becomes more complicated to do calculations. However, IMO ducts require more time for installation but allow easier possibilities such as elbows if a longer vent is needed.

I wouldn't be doing any math. I would be following a cut list

 

[moves]

I am on the crown site and I don't see anything over 800 watts... .what amp should I be considering with minidsp doing the config?

Also, I've opened REW a couple of times and will spend some more time with it. I followed a tutorial in some forum and got started.

 

[lovinthehd]

When you have a software such as BassBox6 Pro, you can get the info on the duct sizes s without any delay. With slots which need bracing, I find that it becomes more complicated to do calculations. However, IMO ducts require more time for installation but allow easier possibilities such as elbows if a longer vent is needed.

You can bend a slot port, too, (maybe even the Marty box, didn't look). Some might find pi more difficult to figure out with? Dunno maybe it's easier with winisd? Mostly about velocity and box building in either case. Would be easier to router a few holes I think, and I like the looks of slots better myself.

 

[everettT]

I am on the crown site and I don't see anything over 800 watts... .what amp should I be considering with minidsp doing the config?

Also, I've opened REW a couple of times and will spend some more time with it. I followed a tutorial in some forum and got started.

2502 should be more than enough for you. 1200w at 2ohms or 2400w at 4ohms bridged, depending on how you wire the driver.

 

[Verdinut]

I am on the crown site and I don't see anything over 800 watts... .what amp should I be considering with minidsp doing the config?

Also, I've opened REW a couple of times and will spend some more time with it. I followed a tutorial in some forum and got started.

In one of my previous posts, I mentioned that the Crowm XLS 1502 puts out 1550 Watts with a 4 ohm load when the two amp outputs are bridged. You can get a confirmation on Crown's website: