Custom Sealed 2x 12" Kappa VQ LowQ Build

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Hey andrew.... got a quick question....
What did you use to seal up all those inside edges to prevent air from leaking out...

I got 4 sheets of Baltic Birch 13 ply and cut them up last night for my 2 15" TC-2000's and 2 Maelstrom-X builds... I'll be gluing them up in the next couple of days...

Thanks

I typically use silicon caulking if I am going to seal up internal edges to prevent air leaks. The brown stuff you see is actually a construction adhesive to ensure a tight fit on the large brace.

Careful Warp, He told me it was some special Andrew love juice so I cancelled my order.

I'm not the one with coolant in my speakers! :eek:
 
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sub is done ... but i've asked andrew to include it in his ground plane tests (did i ask him, or did he twist my arm again?)
the only other kappa 12 measured ground plane was "underpowered" so i'm guessing aside from me, a lot would benefit seeing the results to this one.

this one he will test with 900w out of a single channel of an EP2500, exactly what i'll be feeding it ... so i get to see what it can do ground plane when he tests it.
 
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sub is done ... but i've asked andrew to include it in his ground plane tests (did i ask him, or did he twist my arm again?)
the only other kappa 12 measured ground plane was "underpowered" so i'm guessing aside from me, a lot would benefit seeing the results to this one.

this one he will test with 900w out of a single channel of an EP2500, exactly what i'll be feeding it ... so i get to see what it can do ground plane when he tests it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Mike, looking forward to Andrews measurements.
 
got this today:

andrew screwed the crap out of the shipping box
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I think it may be about time to invest in a screwgun ;)
 
That looks great. Now for the important question.... How does it sound?
 
i'll try to get it running by tomorrow. both as a full range sub and as midbass for the system.
 
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120db nearfield :) sub only

though i could hear some mechanical sounds from the drivers.

if i didn't know any better, this thing can run full range even for movies. for music, i don't think you'll notice any difference.

they have enough SPL's to shake the couch from it's front location (12 feet distance in my 4k room)
 
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Please remember I specifically designed this as a midbass unit, it has a very steep roll off below 60Hz and isn't to be used as a stand alone unit, but I am glad you are liking the output it has :).
 
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120db nearfield :) sub only

though i could hear some mechanical sounds from the drivers.

if i didn't know any better, this thing can run full range even for movies. for music, i don't rhink you'll notice any difference.

they have enough SPL's to shake the couch from it's front location (12 feet distance in my 4k room)

Nice that looks like a very well made and performing addition :)
 
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Please remember I specifically designed this as a midbass unit, it has a very steep roll off below 60Hz and isn't to be used as a stand alone unit, but I am glad you are liking the output it has :).

yeah, it's running midbass now ... BUT

the DCX2496 only has SUM: AC ; AB ; BC and no ABC sum output
 
yeah, it's running midbass now ... BUT

the DCX2496 only has SUM: AC ; AB ; BC and no ABC sum output
I would try to set the surround receiver to the following: set it's center channel output to 'small' and set the appropriate crossover frequency in the reciever. By doing this, it should re-map the appropriate LF energy to the L and R preouts if they are set to 'large'. Then this will be sent to the DCX L and R inputs. Then using A + B Sum on the DCX, you will have the appropriate signal for both mid-bass sub outputs. Apply appropriate xovers to these relative outputs. Such as set subwoofer outputs from DCX to low pass at 80Hz and mid-bass to high pass at 80Hz (taking over where the subs stop) and low pass the mid-basses at around 120Hz or wherever it is you prefer.

-Chris
 
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I would try to set the surround receiver to the following: set it's center channel output to 'small' and set the appropriate crossover frequency in the reciever. By doing this, it should re-map the appropriate LF energy to the L and R preouts if they are set to 'large'. Then this will be sent to the DCX L and R inputs. Then using A + B Sum on the DCX, you will have the appropriate signal for both mid-bass sub outputs. Apply appropriate xovers to these relative outputs. Such as set subwoofer outputs from DCX to low pass at 80Hz and mid-bass to high pass at 80Hz (taking over where the subs stop) and low pass the mid-basses at around 120Hz or wherever it is you prefer.

-Chris

that would work IF the mains were indeed set to large ... but i have all of them set to small and the midbass sub playing just 80-111hz :D

but you did give me an idea about lowering the crossover a bit.
 

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