Custom Sealed 2x 12" Kappa VQ LowQ Build

avaserfi

avaserfi

Audioholic Ninja
Hey andrew.... got a quick question....
What did you use to seal up all those inside edges to prevent air from leaking out...

I got 4 sheets of Baltic Birch 13 ply and cut them up last night for my 2 15" TC-2000's and 2 Maelstrom-X builds... I'll be gluing them up in the next couple of days...

Thanks
I typically use silicon caulking if I am going to seal up internal edges to prevent air leaks. The brown stuff you see is actually a construction adhesive to ensure a tight fit on the large brace.

Careful Warp, He told me it was some special Andrew love juice so I cancelled my order.
I'm not the one with coolant in my speakers! :eek:
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord





sub is done ... but i've asked andrew to include it in his ground plane tests (did i ask him, or did he twist my arm again?)
the only other kappa 12 measured ground plane was "underpowered" so i'm guessing aside from me, a lot would benefit seeing the results to this one.

this one he will test with 900w out of a single channel of an EP2500, exactly what i'll be feeding it ... so i get to see what it can do ground plane when he tests it.
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator


sub is done ... but i've asked andrew to include it in his ground plane tests (did i ask him, or did he twist my arm again?)
the only other kappa 12 measured ground plane was "underpowered" so i'm guessing aside from me, a lot would benefit seeing the results to this one.

this one he will test with 900w out of a single channel of an EP2500, exactly what i'll be feeding it ... so i get to see what it can do ground plane when he tests it.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Mike, looking forward to Andrews measurements.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
got this today:

andrew screwed the crap out of the shipping box









 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
I think it may be about time to invest in a screwgun ;)
 
H

Highbar

Senior Audioholic
That looks great. Now for the important question.... How does it sound?
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
i'll try to get it running by tomorrow. both as a full range sub and as midbass for the system.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord


120db nearfield :) sub only

though i could hear some mechanical sounds from the drivers.

if i didn't know any better, this thing can run full range even for movies. for music, i don't think you'll notice any difference.

they have enough SPL's to shake the couch from it's front location (12 feet distance in my 4k room)
 
Last edited:
avaserfi

avaserfi

Audioholic Ninja
Please remember I specifically designed this as a midbass unit, it has a very steep roll off below 60Hz and isn't to be used as a stand alone unit, but I am glad you are liking the output it has :).
 
TheFactor

TheFactor

Audioholic Field Marshall


120db nearfield :) sub only

though i could hear some mechanical sounds from the drivers.

if i didn't know any better, this thing can run full range even for movies. for music, i don't rhink you'll notice any difference.

they have enough SPL's to shake the couch from it's front location (12 feet distance in my 4k room)
Nice that looks like a very well made and performing addition :)
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
Please remember I specifically designed this as a midbass unit, it has a very steep roll off below 60Hz and isn't to be used as a stand alone unit, but I am glad you are liking the output it has :).
yeah, it's running midbass now ... BUT

the DCX2496 only has SUM: AC ; AB ; BC and no ABC sum output
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
yeah, it's running midbass now ... BUT

the DCX2496 only has SUM: AC ; AB ; BC and no ABC sum output
I would try to set the surround receiver to the following: set it's center channel output to 'small' and set the appropriate crossover frequency in the reciever. By doing this, it should re-map the appropriate LF energy to the L and R preouts if they are set to 'large'. Then this will be sent to the DCX L and R inputs. Then using A + B Sum on the DCX, you will have the appropriate signal for both mid-bass sub outputs. Apply appropriate xovers to these relative outputs. Such as set subwoofer outputs from DCX to low pass at 80Hz and mid-bass to high pass at 80Hz (taking over where the subs stop) and low pass the mid-basses at around 120Hz or wherever it is you prefer.

-Chris
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
I would try to set the surround receiver to the following: set it's center channel output to 'small' and set the appropriate crossover frequency in the reciever. By doing this, it should re-map the appropriate LF energy to the L and R preouts if they are set to 'large'. Then this will be sent to the DCX L and R inputs. Then using A + B Sum on the DCX, you will have the appropriate signal for both mid-bass sub outputs. Apply appropriate xovers to these relative outputs. Such as set subwoofer outputs from DCX to low pass at 80Hz and mid-bass to high pass at 80Hz (taking over where the subs stop) and low pass the mid-basses at around 120Hz or wherever it is you prefer.

-Chris
that would work IF the mains were indeed set to large ... but i have all of them set to small and the midbass sub playing just 80-111hz :D

but you did give me an idea about lowering the crossover a bit.
 

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