Best ported enclosure for a stereo integrity?

[ssmokeyy]

Wondering what ported enclosures have been made and what seems like the best for 20 hz and below. Right now I'm thinking 5 cubic box with 20 hz slot port tune. Power is 1200 rms from speaker power. What have the si sql been doing and like?

 

[TLS Guy]

Wondering what ported enclosures have been made and what seems like the best for 20 hz and below. Right now I'm thinking 5 cubic box with 20 hz slot port tune. Power is 1200 rms from speaker power. What have the si sql been doing and like?

That is not how you design a sub. You start by picking the driver, and then design the enclosure that works for the driver. Some drivers are best for ported and some for sealed. The lowest F3 will be a little higher than the fs of the driver, and sometimes by quite a bit.

It is a grave error to design for the lowest reach. There is little content below about 28 Hz, and an F3 between 20 and 25 Hz gives excellent results. Chasing the lowest F3 is "fools gold." Don't start off making that mistake.

It is best if you purchase a design program. Using long hand math is very laborious. I went through those days, and started using computer assisted design in 1984.

 

[lovinthehd]

Model it like TLS says. Which driver?

 

[Kingnoob]

Wondering what ported enclosures have been made and what seems like the best for 20 hz and below. Right now I'm thinking 5 cubic box with 20 hz slot port tune. Power is 1200 rms from speaker power. What have the si sql been doing and like?

You can use modeling software or whatever there site says for the build . I tied to ask questions on diy audio for how to get glue off my plate amp and got crickets (nothing ) .. but you may get replies .

 

[TLS Guy]

You can use modeling software or whatever there site says for the build . I tied to ask questions on diy audio for how to get glue off my plate amp and got crickets (nothing ) .. but you may get replies .

You need to model it. Don't trust what a vendor says. Do your own model, or have someone with experience do it for you.

 

[Kingnoob]

You need to model it. Don't trust what a vendor says. Do your own model, or have someone with experience do it for you.

Yeah forgot the one I used , because that laptops Toast . And I can’t find it so it was possibly tossed. But it should be easy to figure out . Op could post here too ..

DIY Corner - Tips & Techniques

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[ssmokeyy]

So I did model it in winisd 3 times. I used stereo integrity sql 15 specs. Finish comes back every time driver data error. I have tried pushing past it. Finish states 4.8 with 22 hz port tune starting out. But if u look at the cone excursion its off the charts with 1000 rms. Around 60mm when the sub has 28mm. So I think something is off just not sure how to fix it. Using the software I found it seems that building a 5 cubic box set to 20hz port tune looks nice. But if the software is off who knows if im getting good info.

 

[lovinthehd]

I think @ryanosaur played around with the sql drivers, altho might have been 12s....seem to remember some issues when he was modeling those....

 

[ryanosaur]

I think @ryanosaur played around with the sql drivers, altho might have been 12s....seem to remember some issues when he was modeling those....

Mainly, my specs when measured with DATS were off from those posted on the site, including a higher Fs.

Here's the thing... Unless the Driver is borked, the modern Subwoofer game is more one of brute force: DSP it to max out performance and throw power at it to back it up.

This runs counter to the skill and technique world that should still matter. But every time I talk to a person that does Subs now, this is their approach. Except @TLS Guy . His is predicted on skill and technique.

The problem is, none of the modern extreme subwoofer guys are willing to discuss how the sausage is made. Asking those questions p!sses these cats off something fierce.

 

[Kingnoob]

Mainly, my specs when measured with DATS were off from those posted on the site, including a higher Fs.

Here's the thing... Unless the Driver is borked, the modern Subwoofer game is more one of brute force: DSP it to max out performance and throw power at it to back it up.

This runs counter to the skill and technique world that should still matter. But every time I talk to a person that does Subs now, this is their approach. Except @TLS Guy . His is predicted on skill and technique.

The problem is, none of the modern extreme subwoofer guys are willing to discuss how the sausage is made. Asking those questions p!sses these cats off something fierce.

Yeah my DIY has no DSP and i couldn’t find a 600 rms plate amp so stuck with a weaker 500.. prob left a lot on the table .
yet subwoofer brands almost all sell 600 rms models but consumers can’t get them .

Best subwoofer cable ?

First question Looking for an affordable cable 20 feet+ I was looking under $40/50. May get two if price is low enough not sure. I’ve checked bestbuy everything is expensive. monster was only 13 foot. Haven’t checked Walmart yet.. Amazon has so many options. I’m not sure tons of brands too...

forums.audioholics.com

 

[TLS Guy]

So I did model it in winisd 3 times. I used stereo integrity sql 15 specs. Finish comes back every time driver data error. I have tried pushing past it. Finish states 4.8 with 22 hz port tune starting out. But if u look at the cone excursion its off the charts with 1000 rms. Around 60mm when the sub has 28mm. So I think something is off just not sure how to fix it. Using the software I found it seems that building a 5 cubic box set to 20hz port tune looks nice. But if the software is off who knows if im getting good info.

Is this the driver you want to model? If so, I will try and get time to model it tomorrow. Fs is 23.8, so your F3 is going to be a bit above that. But that is fine.

 

[lovinthehd]

Mainly, my specs when measured with DATS were off from those posted on the site, including a higher Fs.

Here's the thing... Unless the Driver is borked, the modern Subwoofer game is more one of brute force: DSP it to max out performance and throw power at it to back it up.

This runs counter to the skill and technique world that should still matter. But every time I talk to a person that does Subs now, this is their approach. Except @TLS Guy . His is predicted on skill and technique.

The problem is, none of the modern extreme subwoofer guys are willing to discuss how the sausage is made. Asking those questions p!sses these cats off something fierce.

Like GSG?

 

[Verdinut]

Mainly, my specs when measured with DATS were off from those posted on the site, including a higher Fs.

Here's the thing... Unless the Driver is borked, the modern Subwoofer game is more one of brute force: DSP it to max out performance and throw power at it to back it up.

This runs counter to the skill and technique world that should still matter. But every time I talk to a person that does Subs now, this is their approach. Except @TLS Guy . His is predicted on skill and technique.

The problem is, none of the modern extreme subwoofer guys are willing to discuss how the sausage is made. Asking those questions p!sses these cats off something fierce.

With the DATS woofer software, It often occurs to see measured Thiele/Small parameters differing from those specified by the manufacturer. A variation of up to 15% is usually observed. In conclusion, the overall situation is not problematic as IMO, the human ear cannot detect those differences.

 

[ryanosaur]

With the DATS woofer software, It often occurs to see measured Thiele/Small parameters differing from those specified by the manufacturer. A variation of up to 15% is usually observed. In conclusion, the overall situation is not problematic as IMO, the human ear cannot detect those differences.

I would generally agree with this as I was prepped for that very issue. My measurements were shared with a cat working with JBL Research and he was stoked to see what I had done (methodology, added mass measurements) but was also surprised at the variance from published spec. It’s been a minute since I ran those tests, but they were definitely higher than a 15% variance. Especially Fs.

The only thing I haven’t done is run those drivers in a little. But even that wouldn’t account for the variance I have. (I do get that Driver burn in represents only a very minimal permanent change, mainly in working the suspension a little and loosening it up.) Everybody I shared my measurements with agreed that Fs might drop slightly with burn in, but not enough to account for the difference I have in my units.

 

[ryanosaur]

Like GSG?

I’ve talked to Kevin a few times and he’s always been supercool.

No, I’m taking about guys like TV. Others, too. But all guys who I would expect to be happy to share expertise and experience rather than pitch fits when asked questions like “what happens when you push a higher Fs Pro Driver (or any Driver) down 1/2 an octave or more below FS?”

 

[Verdinut]

Referring to Vance Dickason in the 7th edition of his Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, changes in box performance with cone speaker break-in are trivial. The reason for this is that the Fs/Qts ratios remain constant before and after break-in.

 

[ssmokeyy]

Yeah my DIY has no DSP and i couldn’t find a 600 rms plate amp so stuck with a weaker 500.. prob left a lot on the table .
yet subwoofer brands almost all sell 600 rms models but consumers can’t get them .

Best subwoofer cable ?

First question Looking for an affordable cable 20 feet+ I was looking under $40/50. May get two if price is low enough not sure. I’ve checked bestbuy everything is expensive. monster was only 13 foot. Haven’t checked Walmart yet.. Amazon has so many options. I’m not sure tons of brands too...

forums.audioholics.com

Speaker power 1200 when u drive it at 8 ohms is 600. Or u could get the 700 plate that does 700 at 4ohm .

 

[ssmokeyy]

Is this the driver you want to model? If so, I will try and get time to model it tomorrow. Fs is 23.8, so your F3 is going to be a bit above that. But that is fine.

Here is the website for it. https://stereointegrity.com/product/sql-15-series-2/
It does look like the same driver u found. Thank u trying to model it. I dont chat on avs anymore but over on avs they say to do 5-6.5 cubic box. Seems kinda large on the 6.5 size.

 

[ryanosaur]

Referring to Vance Dickason in the 7th edition of his Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, changes in box performance with cone speaker break-in are trivial. The reason for this is that the Fs/Qts ratios remain constant before and after break-in.

Agreed. Believe me when I say that I’m not the one challenging what I’ve read in the books. I would very much like to reconcile what these guys new school guys are doing with Dickason and the other authors

 

[Kingnoob]

Speaker power 1200 when u drive it at 8 ohms is 600. Or u could get the 700 plate that does 700 at 4ohm .

Looks nice seems to go lower than the current amp but I don’t see how long the warranty is. When mine breaks I’ll probably see how close different brands are to the bash. Not sure how much different a 1kw is and 700 both are a little over the drivers limit. The Dayton driver had higher handling.