Car audio subwoofer in the house?

[TLS Guy]

This enclosure is built like a brick poop house. The box alone which is Baltic Birch weighs about 85 lb.

Even so, I suspect there are panel resonances. You still get resonant vibration modes whatever you use, that need controlling with bracing.

 

[TLS Guy]

For sure. I don’t know what FS is so kinda spoke outta turn. Generally speaking though, I would not want a 26hz tune. Especially for HT. So if that driver allows, which I assume it does, 18-20hz would be much better. IMO.
I would also choose ported. As I know you would too.

The driver does not allow it. I posted the optimal box. F3 will always be a little higher than the Fs of the driver. The driver Fs is 23.8 Hz. You would not expect an F3 below 26 Hz. That is NOT a brick wall and roll off is 24 db per octave. Any sub with an F3 at or below the 27 to 28 Hz range will be perfectly adequate. With room gain that will give you more than adequate bass. The Fs is the free air resonance of the driver.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

That looks close, however ported enclosures are super critical in terms of all dimensions. Try it and see what happens. What are your port dimensions? Also that enclosure does not look adequately braced.

The driver does not allow it. I posted the optimal box. F3 will always be a little higher than the Fs of the driver. The driver Fs is 23.8 Hz. You would not expect an F3 below 26 Hz. That is NOT a brick wall and roll off is 24 db per octave. Any sub with an F3 at or below the 27 to 28 Hz range will be perfectly adequate. With room gain that will give you more than adequate bass. The Fs is the free air resonance of the driver.

I think from listening to you that the current sub and box will work. I just need to get a power amplifier with DSP. do you have any suggestions?

 

[TLS Guy]

I think from listening to you that the current sub and box will work. I just need to get a power amplifier with DSP. do you have any suggestions?

Why do you want DSP? You can not Eq. a ported sub like you have to with a sealed sub. I can't see that DSP will be a benefit with that sub.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

Why do you want DSP? You can not Eq. a ported sub like you have to with a sealed sub. I can't see that DSP will be a benefit with that sub.

I'm new to home audio I just thought that you had to have a DSP. I've got an awesome system in my car I just want a man cave two channel with a sub. I guess just a power amp will work no need for a DSP. Should I give it a little more or less power? It's currently on a 2-ohm load in my car.

 

[TLS Guy]

I'm new to home audio I just thought that you had to have a DSP. I've got an awesome system in my car I just want a man cave two channel with a sub. I guess just a power amp will work no need for a DSP. Should I give it a little more or less power? It's currently on a 2-ohm load in my car.

That driver is four ohm, and so you need an amp comfortable with four ohm and most power amps will be.

The choice really comes down to build quality and reliability more than any other considerations. What is your budget?

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

The Fs is the free air resonance of the driver.

I do know what FS is lol. I just worded that poorly. Or figured you’d know what I meant lol.

 

[TLS Guy]

I do know what FS is lol. I just worded that poorly. Or figured you’d know what I meant lol.

I was not sure what you meant, as your statement was ambiguous. So I covered all bases.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

That driver is four ohm, and so you need an amp comfortable with four ohm and most power amps will be.

The choice really comes down to build quality and reliability more than any other considerations. What is your budget?

 

[Sassafras LLC]

That driver is four ohm, and so you need an amp comfortable with four ohm and most power amps will be.

The choice really comes down to build quality and reliability more than any other considerations. What is your budget?

I guess my budget is kind of low. Not trying to go down the rabbit hole with crazy spending. So I guess you could say budget-friendly but still effective. The system in my car is very expensive I don't want to go down that route at this time. I guess you can say I'm getting my feet wet with home audio. As far as the subwoofer I have a DVC 4 ohm. It comes in DVC 2 and DVC 4. It's currently on a 2-ohm load

 

[TLS Guy]

I guess my budget is kind of low. Not trying to go down the rabbit hole with crazy spending. So I guess you could say budget-friendly but still effective. The system in my car is very expensive I don't want to go down that route at this time. I guess you can say I'm getting my feet wet with home audio. As far as the subwoofer I have a DVC 4 ohm. It comes in DVC 2 and DVC 4. It's currently on a 2-ohm load

I don't understand. The Driver you have is 4 ohm and not DVC. What is this current 2 ohm load and what is powering it?

 

[Sassafras LLC]

I don't understand. The Driver you have is 4 ohm and not DVC. What is this current 2 ohm load and what is powering it?

I have the stereo integrity SQL 15 from my understanding it only comes in two versions and that is DVC 4 and DVC 2 which means dual voice coil. I have the DVC 4 and it is wired on a 2 ohm load it is being powered by a synergy wfo 2.1 d amplifier. It is a Korean board. It's also a very underrated amplifier. It's getting about 1,800 Watts clean power.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

I don't understand. The Driver you have is 4 ohm and not DVC. What is this current 2 ohm load and what is powering it?

 

[TLS Guy]

I have the stereo integrity SQL 15 from my understanding it only comes in two versions and that is DVC 4 and DVC 2 which means dual voice coil. I have the DVC 4 and it is wired on a 2 ohm load it is being powered by a synergy wfo 2.1 d amplifier. It is a Korean board. It's also a very underrated amplifier. It's getting about 1,800 Watts clean power.

Well, in that case you need to link me to your driver, as the spec sheet I found for that driver made no mention of DVC. So I may have modelled the wrong driver.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

Well, in that case you need to link me to your driver, as the spec sheet I found for that driver made no mention of DVC. So I may have modelled the wrong driver.

SQL Series – StereoIntegrity.com

stereointegrity.com

 

[TLS Guy]

SQL Series – StereoIntegrity.com

stereointegrity.com

That is the site I went to. There is no mention of a DVC woofer. The one listed is a standard 15" four ohm driver. So, I have no idea what you have and the model may not be valid. Are you certain your driver is DVC? I have never seen a listing for an SQL DVC driver.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

That is the site I went to. There is no mention of a DVC woofer. The one listed is a standard 15" four ohm driver. So, I have no idea what you have and the model may not be valid. Are you certain your driver is DVC? I have never seen a listing for an SQL DVC driver.

I am very certain it's a DVC 4 it even has it listed on the box. when you go on the website and you go try to purchase one of these subwoofers whether it's a 15 or 12-in subwoofer it only lists dvc2 and DVC 4.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

That is the site I went to. There is no mention of a DVC woofer. The one listed is a standard 15" four ohm driver. So, I have no idea what you have and the model may not be valid. Are you certain your driver is DVC? I have never seen a listing for an SQL DVC driver.

 

[TLS Guy]

I saw that. The problem is that the spec. sheet with the T/S parameters just lists a four ohm single VC driver. There is no mention of DVC in any spec sheet.

I have to say that outfit has a bad reputation, and part of it is its specs being either wrong or not honest.

I would measure the DC resistance of one four ohm coil. If the DC resistance matches the spec, in my model, which is 3.25 ohms, then just connect to one VC. If the DC resistance does not match to 3.25 ohms, then there is a big issue.

 

[Sassafras LLC]

I saw that. The problem is that the spec. sheet with the T/S parameters just lists a four ohm single VC driver. There is no mention of DVC in any spec sheet.

I have to say that outfit has a bad reputation, and part of it is its specs being either wrong or not honest.

I would measure the DC resistance of one four ohm coil. If the DC resistance matches the spec, in my model, which is 3.25 ohms, then just connect to one VC. If the DC resistance does not match to 3.25 ohms, then there is a big issue.

I do know the subwoofer will get loud and it's very musical. When I pull the sub out I will definitely test it. I know several sound quality competitors that use the subwoofer exclusively and they love them. Yes, their specs are always a little off. I had one of the older models subwoofers the RM series. Dealing with Nick the owner is a real pain. He literally shot me some TS specs for that subwoofer written on a paper towel. This company for the money is pretty hard to beat but they're transparency sometimes is a joke. They're nowhere near as bad as fi audio though.

What amplifier do you recommend? Something that won't break the bank. I'm looking in between 1500 to 2,000 k that is capable of running on a 2 ohm load.