tekton - the next big thing?

Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I went to the original site where i got the pic from here is what i got from the ones that were unreadable
Daton MPT 8.2uF 250V %5 AUDIO GRADE

THE SMAL ONE BOTTOM LEFT 2.2uF

TOP RIGHT
8.2uF = %2 1103
690VAC 1000VDC
the values for the capacitors are 8.2 and 10.0 uF.
Thanks for those cap values that I couldn't read.

So, on both boards, the upper right cap is 8.2 µF and the lower left cap is 2.2 µF. The upper left cap on the optional board is 10 µF. The yellow cap on the standard board has the hand written number of .84. Is that 0.84 µF?

Are these boards the same layout but with caps of different value, a different design; or are they the same design but with caps of the same value made by different manufacture?
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Nor would I for a big auditorium. However it is a big 12"speaker, with an Fs of 46 Hz. So I don't see where that speaker would be very useful in a domestic environment.
If you seal it in 1.5 cu ft, it's a very fit driver for a THX speaker with -4db at 80hz and a true 2nd order rolloff Q = .57. Could fit nicely behind an acoustic screen. Let the majority of the bass range be handled by two to four capable distrubuted subs like the Mach V LLE-18

With its copper demodulation ring, large cone area, superior power handling compared to the vast majority of home audio drivers along with high efficiency > 90 db/w/m, and seemingly usful frequency response, especially if mated to a quality efficient midrange such as the ATC SM75, JBL C500G, PHL 1120, or BG Neo10 in the around 350hz - 500hz region.

Like I said, it probably would not fit your criteria of trying to get 20hz extension without a sub, but I can see a lot of people being happy with what it does, especially since you don't need kilowatt amps to drive it.
 
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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
If you seal it in 1.5 cu ft, it's a very fit driver for a THX speaker with -4db at 80hz and a true 2nd order rolloff Q = .57. Could fit nicely behind an acoustic screen. Let the majority of the bass range be handled by two to four capable distrubuted subs like the Mach V LLE-18

With its copper demodulation ring, large cone area, superior power handling compared to the vast majority of home audio drivers along with high efficiency > 90 db/w/m, and seemingly usful frequency response, especially if mated to a quality efficient midrange such as the ATC SM75, JBL C500G, PHL 1120, or BG Neo10 in the around 350hz - 500hz region.

Like I said, it probably would not fit your criteria of trying to get 20hz extension without a sub, but I can see a lot of people being happy with what it does, especially since you don't need kilowatt amps to drive it.
You make very good points.

With a 12" driver, you would have the choice of complex cabinetry, like I encountered, or a two piece design. On for the 12" drivers and the other for the mid and high end.

The question I would ask, is in the domestic situation, how much would you gain over the little ATC SCM 7 speakers for all channels with good subs?

I have had a chance to play those speakers often, and they can play very loud and clear under domestic conditions.

I just have a hunch that if you put a THX system together round the SCM 7s you would have a system the equal of and better than most costing thousands more. The roll of is perfect for a THX system.

Seven SCM 7, would set back $3,500, not bad for seven really good speakers and all would match perfectly and be very unobtrusive.

However, like in this thread there is a the sense that bigger has to be better. However if you think about it bigger is better really just applies to the last octave.

I personally think than in domestic situations for non dedicated spaces, or small dedicated spaces, the above would be my recommendation, top of the list, no question about it.

If you ever get a chance to audition the SCM 7 under optimal conditions, you should. It's head and shoulders above any other small bookshelf.
 
whasaaaab

whasaaaab

Junior Audioholic
Thanks for those cap values that I couldn't read.

So, on both boards, the upper right cap is 8.2 µF and the lower left cap is 2.2 µF. The upper left cap on the optional board is 10 µF. The yellow cap on the standard board has the hand written number of .84. Is that 0.84 µF?

Are these boards the same layout but with caps of different value, a different design; or are they the same design but with caps of the same value made by different manufacture?
The differnce would also be that the mcaps are a higher grade of capacitor where the dayton is entry grade i would say , so higher quality vs lower quality.

I did ask for pics f they had any of inside th ependragons and if it was for all 3 tweeters or not
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
The differnce would also be that the mcaps are a higher grade of capacitor where the dayton is entry grade i would say , so higher quality vs lower quality.

I did ask for pics f they had any of inside th ependragons and if it was for all 3 tweeters or not
Without knowing the acoustic responses and T/S parameters of the tweeters, and the value of the inductors there is not much benefit in going further.

I think we have established that there is no crossover to the 10 inch cones. So the 10" cones are driven way into their break up mode were they peak by 5 to 6 db in the critical mid range and beam.

The caps quality will make no difference.

All you need are good quality poly caps like from Solen, which are reasonably priced.

The cap shoot out links are just bogus and of no meaning or value.

Just connect any of these caps, including the Daytons to a generator and look at the wave form o the scope. If you can't see the difference in the wave form you certainly won't hear it. Anybody who tells you anything different has snake oil to sell.
 
whasaaaab

whasaaaab

Junior Audioholic
Without knowing the acoustic responses and T/S parameters of the tweeters, and the value of the inductors there is not much benefit in going further.

I think we have established that there is no crossover to the 10 inch cones. So the 10" cones are driven way into their break up mode were they peak by 5 to 6 db in the critical mid range and beam.

The caps quality will make no difference.

All you need are good quality poly caps like from Solen, which are reasonably priced.

The cap shoot out links are just bogus and of no meaning or value.

Just connect any of these caps, including the Daytons to a generator and look at the wave form o the scope. If you can't see the difference in the wave form you certainly won't hear it. Anybody who tells you anything different has snake oil to sell.
so if the cones have a cross over that would make a difference? in breaking up. hmmmm we have to find that info out
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
With a 12" driver, you would have the choice of complex cabinetry, like I encountered, or a two piece design. On for the 12" drivers and the other for the mid and high end.
If Eminence made a 10" in the Definimax line with similar extension, it would aesthetically make more sense than the 12", which is probably getting into overkill territory. My only point was that they make some drivers that could be used pretty effectively for a home environment - not just guitar speakers. The keys being its flux demodulation, apparently usable response, and low power compression in a THX system.

The question I would ask, is in the domestic situation, how much would you gain over the little ATC SCM 7 speakers for all channels with good subs?
For surround channels, I doubt you would gain much. In fact I don't think either would be ideal based on the suggestions in Toole's book that you need very similar SPL between the left and right surround channel to get a good spaciousness envelope - which tends to be virtually impossible for all but the sweet spot without getting unconventiona,l - so for surrounds I will be looking at a Constant Beamwidth Transducer power tapered curved line array or a larger, correctly aimed constant directivity coaxial like the KEF Q900 as the focal point.

For left / center / right mains, it's certainly debatable, and without knowing what room / seating distance / source material / preferred SPL i can't say much. Especially with music tastes being so varied.

It's been my experience that movies sound best at around 75db. Since movies are mixed at 80db with a dynamic range of 105db, that means you should expect your system to deliver 100db peaks when called for.

The ATC SCM 7 product page states an efficiency of 84dB @ 1W @ 1metre and a max SPL at 103db, which I'm assuming is @ 1m (it takes 80 watts to hit 103db)

If I want the aformentioned 100db peaks at a typical listening distance of 3-4m, I want a max 1m SPL around 110db, not 103db.

Optimistically that 7db of difference is just theoretical, but I just don't know. So while those ATC speakers can certainly play subjectively loud, I wouldn't be surprised if they are compressing the absolute dynamic peaks seen in film content and possibly music content.

What's more is that you'd basically be pushing them to their limits to get these results. It's not an idea I personally feel comfortable with. Your mileage may vary.

I think an extra 10db of sheer efficiency in the upper bass and lower mids, along with a lot more heatsinking area and less excursion, would make a difference - ultimately my opinion is that size matters NOT just in the last octave but also in the midrange, and upper midrange as well. The 12" woofer lets you hit that 110db mark with only 40 watts!

If the argument is that even 80-82db is subjectively loud - I agree. But I'm not sure that's sufficient for a 100db dynamic peak, never mind a reference level peak at 105db.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Just connect any of these caps, including the Daytons to a generator and look at the wave form o the scope. If you can't see the difference in the wave form you certainly won't hear it. Anybody who tells you anything different has snake oil to sell.
I'm not so sure, though it's not really an area of interest for me.

Since capacitors are microphonic, and the inside of a speaker has very high SPLs, I can see how different "isolation" from the sound can affect the sound produced if it's coming as stored energy.

Either way though, it wouldn't be a meaningful difference.
 
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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
so if the cones have a cross over that would make a difference? in breaking up. hmmmm we have to find that info out
It's not very difficult if you have been around speakers any length of time.

When you look at the published acoustic responses of those paper cones, you see a rising response stating at 700 Hz peaking at actually 9 db at 2.8 kHz.

There is no crossover to the 10" drivers, so the acoustic response of those 10" drivers has to be the mid band response.

So this means that those 10" drivers are playing twice as loud at 2 to 2.8 K Hz as they are below 700 Hz. Now you tell me if that is the sort of speaker you want to listen to. I certainly don't, and especially not for classical music.

To make an acceptable speaker round these drivers, requires a crossover to those 10" cones in the 350 to 500 Hz range and then a band pass crossover to a good midrange unit and then a high pass crossover to a good tweeter, not three.

I can be certain there is no 10" woofer made on the planet that can crossover to small dome tweeters. Yes, I'm certain of that.

Now full range drivers are small cones in the 4 to 6 inch range. There are dedicated full rangers, and they have some valid points, but in todays world they all have significant limitations, especially in spl. Probably the best available are built round the Lowther drivers, Fostex and Mark drivers.

It might surprise you to know I am a full ranger at heart, and had a lot to do with the JW driver, especially the Mk 3. The Mark Far Eastern drivers are a development of the JW modular driver.

I think all speaker designers should have a soft spot for full rangers deep in their hearts. What I leaned over many years using full range drivers, has profoundly influenced my approach to speaker design.

However the approach taken by the designer of the speaker under discussion has no validity whatsoever in physics and design practice.

I can say without listening to it that those speakers are very inaccurate reproducers. Yes, I can be 100% certain.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
If Eminence made a 10" in the Definimax line with similar extension, it would aesthetically make more sense than the 12", which is probably getting into overkill territory. My only point was that they make some drivers that could be used pretty effectively for a home environment - not just guitar speakers. The keys being its flux demodulation, apparently usable response, and low power compression in a THX system.



For surround channels, I doubt you would gain much. In fact I don't think either would be ideal based on the suggestions in Toole's book that you need very similar SPL between the left and right surround channel to get a good spaciousness envelope - which tends to be virtually impossible for all but the sweet spot without getting unconventiona,l - so for surrounds I will be looking at a Constant Beamwidth Transducer power tapered curved line array or a larger, correctly aimed constant directivity coaxial like the KEF Q900 as the focal point.

For left / center / right mains, it's certainly debatable, and without knowing what room / seating distance / source material / preferred SPL i can't say much. Especially with music tastes being so varied.

It's been my experience that movies sound best at around 75db. Since movies are mixed at 80db with a dynamic range of 105db, that means you should expect your system to deliver 100db peaks when called for.

The ATC SCM 7 product page states an efficiency of 84dB @ 1W @ 1metre and a max SPL at 103db, which I'm assuming is @ 1m (it takes 80 watts to hit 103db)

If I want the aformentioned 100db peaks at a typical listening distance of 3-4m, I want a max 1m SPL around 110db, not 103db.

Optimistically that 7db of difference is just theoretical, but I just don't know. So while those ATC speakers can certainly play subjectively loud, I wouldn't be surprised if they are compressing the absolute dynamic peaks seen in film content and possibly music content.

What's more is that you'd basically be pushing them to their limits to get these results. It's not an idea I personally feel comfortable with. Your mileage may vary.

I think an extra 10db of sheer efficiency in the upper bass and lower mids, along with a lot more heatsinking area and less excursion, would make a difference - ultimately my opinion is that size matters NOT just in the last octave but also in the midrange, and upper midrange as well. The 12" woofer lets you hit that 110db mark with only 40 watts!

If the argument is that even 80-82db is subjectively loud - I agree. But I'm not sure that's sufficient for a 100db dynamic peak, never mind a reference level peak at 105db.
I have not had a chance to hear the SCM 7 with a sub and 80 Hz crossover.

My guess is that they would play loud enough under most domestic conditions to do a very good job in the HT environment.

I saw them made and they are made with the same precision and very close tolerance VC gap as the famous ATC midrange drivers.

Billy Woodman is the absolute king of designing small transducers and getting high spl with minimal thermal compression.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Whether the make and materials of capacitors affect sound quality has a long and controversial history in audio. It has been debated often and unfortunately these debates have been contaminated by the two camps of the "Great Debate" in audio. Are you an objectivist or a subjectivist? Can people hear audible benefits from using different materials in wires and passive electronic parts even though performance differences cannot be detected by measuring instruments?

I don't intend to revisit this debate here – I'd prefer to stick with the questions the OP had about Pendragon speakers. If this thread becomes derailed by this debate, I won't participate any further. I think it's a waste of time, and worse, it's a disservice to new readers who want to learn something useful about audio.

But I will state my position about capacitors – one time. I am not an electrical or audio engineer. My education on these subjects was limited to one year of college physics which included basic DC and AC electronics. The rest of what I know about audio and speaker design is self-taught, learned mainly in the last 10 years as I became interested in DIY speaker building. Since then, my main interest in audio is just what makes a speaker sound good? That would include anything about a speaker, including capacitors.

I read the two "Great Capacitor Shoot Out' links and have some general comments. Most important is that this "shoot out' made the unfounded assumption that capacitors do sound different and they attempted to rate and rank the differences they heard. It has never been scientifically established that capacitors can actually do this. How can you rate the sound quality coming from using different capacitors unless it is first clearly demonstrated that people really can hear differences? So they fail on that very basic level.

A number of years ago, I attended a meeting of local DIY speaker builders in the Washington, Maryland, and Virginia area. A fair number of people traveled from outside the local area. About 40 or more people attended. Besides the usual show and tell of various DIY speakers people had designed and built, the major agenda that afternoon was to perform a blind listening test of whether a large group of people could hear differences in capacitors used in speaker crossovers.

I took part in that. It made use of two different small bookshelf speakers of excellent quality. These speakers had crossovers that contained two different capacitors as the primary high-pass filter caps for the tweeters. Each cap could be switched in or out by a remote control switch operated by the listener. The listener did not know which caps were in use, only that when he hit the remote, a red or green light (in a small box sitting on top of the speaker) would indicate that a switch had been made. Individuals and small groups could listen to various short musical passages and switch back and forth at will.

First, listeners were given a short version of the test to see if they thought they could hear any differences at all. Why go on if you don't hear any differences? If a listener thought he could hear differences, a longer test followed allowing enough repeats for the test to begin to acquire some statistical significance. As always, each listener answered this question after each pair of listening tests: Can you hear a difference between the green and red? I did the longer tests on two different speakers. Most others who were there did the same.

Overall about 40 listeners each responded to at least 12 (sometimes 15 or 20) repeats of the blind test. Among these roughly 500 or more test answers, the results showed that the group could hear differences in capacitors only 50% of the time, and 50% of the time they could not. They would have done no better or worse if they had been randomly guessing.

The capacitors being tested included cheap non-polar electrolyitic (NPE) caps, moderately priced metalized polypropylene (MPP) caps, and very expensive caps of exotic construction. I no longer remember exactly which caps they were.

These results had a profound effect, as you might guess. Argument and debates began right away. Many people there were not prepared to accept the unavoidable conclusion.

My own position swung widely during the afternoon. I was new at the time to DIY speaker building and I knew I had a lot to learn. That was the major reason why I was there. I was aware of the "Great Debate" but did not have enough experience to have my own position. During the listening test, I thought I could really hear differences between capacitors. I was thrilled because it meant that I had "good ears" even among these highly experienced speaker builders! I knew some others there that day were skeptical non-believers in enhanced sound from expensive caps, and I thought "here I am, a rookie, and I can hear these subtle differences".

When I heard the results, I knew immediately I was wrong. No one there that day could consistently tell the differences in sound due to the caps – myself included.

Similar versions of this listening test were repeated two other times later that year at other regional DIY speaker builder meets. Both got similar results.

One of the more respected DIY speaker builders there, who had been one of the primary organizers, discussed what the results meant to him as a DIY speaker builder. I remember his points very well:

  • High priced, exotic, or “boutique” capacitors were clearly not worth buying.

  • The cheapest NPE caps could work well with a large caveat. Many of them varied in their measured capacitance value by more than 10% from their printed value. In the experience of the organizers of the test, they found that you might have to buy as many as 10 NPE caps just to find a pair that were within 10% of the desired value.

  • Inexpensive MPP caps (such as Dayton or Bennic, both of which are made in Taiwan) perform very well, nearly always are within spec as printed on the cap, and they never lose capacitance value over time. In fact, when measuring the caps that went into the test, these Taiwanese caps were often within 1% of the printed value despite their printed claim of ±5%.
So that’s where I come from. I strongly believe, based on the above facts, that high priced capacitors have no value in speaker crossovers.

You may choose to disagree – feel free. Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. But if you wonder if you should spend an additional $750 for speaker crossovers that probably offer only exotic caps (yes, Mundorf silver/oil caps qualify as exotic), I would not recommend it. But it’s your money and your choice.

If anyone is inclined to question me further, please keep it out of this thread. Keep it civil – I’m basically a nice guy. As a final comment, I had mentioned earlier that I am not an electrical or audio engineer, but I am a scientist. I now earn a living designing and funding clinical trials of experimental anticancer drugs. I know quite a lot about blind trial design, hidden sources of testing bias, the placebo effect, and statistical significance and statistical bias. If you really want to argue with me on these subjects, I warn you in advance, if provoked enough I can rip anything you say into shreds.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
I can be certain there is no 10" woofer made on the planet that can crossover to small dome tweeters. Yes, I'm certain of that.
I pretty much agree with this though not 100%

The only way to mate a 10" midwoofer to a 1" tweeter is if the dome tweeter is BOTH

1) Extremely Robust - IE Scanspeak 9500, Tang Band TW 25-1743S, Scanspeak 6640, Seas Millenium, Transducer Labs N26, CSS LDS25X Dayton RS28, or Usher 9950.
2) In a waveguide Where its side radiation is reduced and summed with the forward radiation.

The Vapor Aurora:
Vapor : Exquisite Audio Reproduction

has a 1" dome in an 8" waveguide crossed at 1khz. The very robust dome can play that low only in the waveguide which raises acoustic efficiency without requiring more mechanical output, and the waveguide raises the directivity index to closer match the large midwoofer.

The Tekton Pendragon unfortunately seems to fit neither of these criteria even remotely, so TLS Guy is right on the money when he says:

I can say without listening to it that those speakers are very inaccurate reproducers. Yes, I can be 100% certain.
 
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Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
so if the cones have a cross over that would make a difference? in breaking up. hmmmm we have to find that info out
An illustration of speaker cone break up:

Cone behaving like a piston (sounds good)


Cone breaking up (sounds bad)


An ideal speaker cone always behaves like a piston, but in the real world all speakers have a frequency above which they start breaking up. It is up to the speaker designer to find out how high a woofer can go before break up begins. Consider it an upper limit. Then he knows how to begin designing the crossover.

In the Pendragons, the 10" woofers will be breaking up well below the lower limit of the 1" tweeters. And there is no crossover to prevent them from breaking up.
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
so if the cones have a cross over that would make a difference?
A crossover can only reduce the magnitude of the breakup.

If you reduce the magnitude of the breakup adequately for these 10 inch woofers, then you've got a big gap, probably between 700hz and 2.5khz I'd imagine.

That's an equally poor sounding speaker in its own way if it's lacking that critical upper mid and lower treble range.

The only way to make it work is with a midrange driver, but then you've got a 100% totally different speaker, not even remotely related to this one.

Trust us when we say there are good speakers out there, but this ain't one of them, not matter what magical tweaks you do.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Whether the make and materials of capacitors affect sound quality has a long and controversial history in audio. It has been debated often and unfortunately these debates have been contaminated by the two camps of the "Great Debate" in audio. Are you an objectivist or a subjectivist? Can people hear audible benefits from using different materials in wires and passive electronic parts even though performance differences cannot be detected by measuring instruments?

I don't intend to revisit this debate here – I'd prefer to stick with the questions the OP had about Pendragon speakers. If this thread becomes derailed by this debate, I won't participate any further. I think it's a waste of time, and worse, it's a disservice to new readers who want to learn something useful about audio.

But I will state my position about capacitors – one time. I am not an electrical or audio engineer. My education on these subjects was limited to one year of college physics which included basic DC and AC electronics. The rest of what I know about audio and speaker design is self-taught, learned mainly in the last 10 years as I became interested in DIY speaker building. Since then, my main interest in audio is just what makes a speaker sound good? That would include anything about a speaker, including capacitors.

I read the two "Great Capacitor Shoot Out' links and have some general comments. Most important is that this "shoot out' made the unfounded assumption that capacitors do sound different and they attempted to rate and rank the differences they heard. It has never been scientifically established that capacitors can actually do this. How can you rate the sound quality coming from using different capacitors unless it is first clearly demonstrated that people really can hear differences? So they fail on that very basic level.

A number of years ago, I attended a meeting of local DIY speaker builders in the Washington, Maryland, and Virginia area. A fair number of people traveled from outside the local area. About 40 or more people attended. Besides the usual show and tell of various DIY speakers people had designed and built, the major agenda that afternoon was to perform a blind listening test of whether a large group of people could hear differences in capacitors used in speaker crossovers.

I took part in that. It made use of two different small bookshelf speakers of excellent quality. These speakers had crossovers that contained two different capacitors as the primary high-pass filter caps for the tweeters. Each cap could be switched in or out by a remote control switch operated by the listener. The listener did not know which caps were in use, only that when he hit the remote, a red or green light (in a small box sitting on top of the speaker) would indicate that a switch had been made. Individuals and small groups could listen to various short musical passages and switch back and forth at will.

First, listeners were given a short version of the test to see if they thought they could hear any differences at all. Why go on if you don't hear any differences? If a listener thought he could hear differences, a longer test followed allowing enough repeats for the test to begin to acquire some statistical significance. As always, each listener answered this question after each pair of listening tests: Can you hear a difference between the green and red? I did the longer tests on two different speakers. Most others who were there did the same.

Overall about 40 listeners each responded to at least 12 (sometimes 15 or 20) repeats of the blind test. Among these roughly 500 or more test answers, the results showed that the group could hear differences in capacitors only 50% of the time, and 50% of the time they could not. They would have done no better or worse if they had been randomly guessing.

The capacitors being tested included cheap non-polar electrolyitic (NPE) caps, moderately priced metalized polypropylene (MPP) caps, and very expensive caps of exotic construction. I no longer remember exactly which caps they were.

These results had a profound effect, as you might guess. Argument and debates began right away. Many people there were not prepared to accept the unavoidable conclusion.

My own position swung widely during the afternoon. I was new at the time to DIY speaker building and I knew I had a lot to learn. That was the major reason why I was there. I was aware of the "Great Debate" but did not have enough experience to have my own position. During the listening test, I thought I could really hear differences between capacitors. I was thrilled because it meant that I had "good ears" even among these highly experienced speaker builders! I knew some others there that day were skeptical non-believers in enhanced sound from expensive caps, and I thought "here I am, a rookie, and I can hear these subtle differences".

When I heard the results, I knew immediately I was wrong. No one there that day could consistently tell the differences in sound due to the caps – myself included.

Similar versions of this listening test were repeated two other times later that year at other regional DIY speaker builder meets. Both got similar results.

One of the more respected DIY speaker builders there, who had been one of the primary organizers, discussed what the results meant to him as a DIY speaker builder. I remember his points very well:

  • High priced, exotic, or “boutique” capacitors were clearly not worth buying.

  • The cheapest NPE caps could work well with a large caveat. Many of them varied in their measured capacitance value by more than 10% from their printed value. In the experience of the organizers of the test, they found that you might have to buy as many as 10 NPE caps just to find a pair that were within 10% of the desired value.

  • Inexpensive MPP caps (such as Dayton or Bennic, both of which are made in Taiwan) perform very well, nearly always are within spec as printed on the cap, and they never lose capacitance value over time. In fact, when measuring the caps that went into the test, these Taiwanese caps were often within 1% of the printed value despite their printed claim of ±5%.
So that’s where I come from. I strongly believe, based on the above facts, that high priced capacitors have no value in speaker crossovers.

You may choose to disagree – feel free. Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. But if you wonder if you should spend an additional $750 for speaker crossovers that probably offer only exotic caps (yes, Mundorf silver/oil caps qualify as exotic), I would not recommend it. But it’s your money and your choice.

If anyone is inclined to question me further, please keep it out of this thread. Keep it civil – I’m basically a nice guy. As a final comment, I had mentioned earlier that I am not an electrical or audio engineer, but I am a scientist. I now earn a living designing and funding clinical trials of experimental anticancer drugs. I know quite a lot about blind trial design, hidden sources of testing bias, the placebo effect, and statistical significance and statistical bias. If you really want to argue with me on these subjects, I warn you in advance, if provoked enough I can rip anything you say into shreds.
You have hit the nail on the head as usual. The only thing of consequence is the tolerance of the caps.

That is why a said reasonably priced polypropylene caps. I have found Solen fits that description. They are reasonably priced, their capacitance is what it says it is on the case. You do not need to pay more.
 
R

ridikas

Banned
Let's let these Tektons die a quick death.

Everything GranteedEV and TSL Guy said is right on the money. These are smart dooodes and should be listened too.

Either these speakers will have terrible power response (huge suck-outs in the midrange even slightly off-axis), or if the Vifa XT25 tweeters are crossed over below 2kHz, they will have severe distortion. In addition, the woofers without a crossover will have nasty break-ups and sound harsh and unnatural. Once the break-up region is excited by music, distortion will be through the roof.

The lowest the XT25 should be crossed over is 2kHz with an LR4 slope and a proper LCR network. The XT25's resonance is undamped and an LCR is a must.

The photo of the crossover clearly lacks an LCR network.

These speakers should have been a true 3-way. Is it that difficult to build a 3-way? It is if one doesn't have the basic equipment:

LspCad - $1050
Laptop Computer - $400
Calibrated Microphone - $50 (Dayton from PE)
Total - $1500

If a manufacturer cannot invest $1500 worth of equipment, they have no business being in business.

They do not understand even the basic principles of loudspeakers 101.
 
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whasaaaab

whasaaaab

Junior Audioholic
Swerd, TLS Guy, GranteedEV,

Everything above metioned is very useful not just for me but for everyone interestd in the pendragons and for any other speaker at that. So its not a waste of time that you wrote the long long long paragraphs (swerd)

Your not going off topic at all its educational, i have actually learned more about speakers in this tekton thread then i did on some other sites. So straying from the the main topic at hand is not that bad because it relates to what we are interested in.. The Pendragons

I only have a good ear, i know what sounds good and i have a good eye so i can see all that TV stuff people complain about and i know some stuff about speakers but I am learning more:D

So from everyone thank you :) Now back to the pendragons where were we lol
 
whasaaaab

whasaaaab

Junior Audioholic
Stay away from this fraud. They do not understand even the basic principles of loudspeakers 101.
well we really cant say he does not know what he is doing he has an exstensive background in music and speaker design. its a matter of what i am getting form you guys is why would he design a speaker the way he did with the pendragons.

Even andrew as i mentioned earliar who reviewd the pendrsgons told me not to get the upgrade it wont make a significant improvement. what is stopping me now is the cone breakage you guys have been mentioning, but no where in the reviews they mentioned that happend.

tekton designer
Eric has been building speakers for 25 years. I guess you could say his professional career really started when he owned an “ultra high end” custom car audio store in 80s-90s. Toward the end of that gig, a friend of his, Zu Audio’s Sean Casey, introduced Eric to Ray Kimber and in 1996, the two of them put together Diaural Labs. This rather productive R&D period led to a designer role at Edge/Aperion Audio in 1999, and while there, he won a Subwoofer of the Year award from Perfect Vision for one of his projects. In the 2001-2205, he worked for Sound Tube Entertainment, designing in-wall “commercial audio” systems — professional sound systems for airports and companies like Chilis, Applebees, and others. While at Sound Tube, he invented “Broadbeam Technology”, an ultra-wide-dispersion tweeter that’s been implemented in about $30M worth of equipment, and competes with products from Bose, JBL, Klipsch, &c, in the distributed audio space. Eric started Tekton Inc in 2003 and made it a full time concern in 2005. Tekton puts out several hundred speakers per yea, with the Lore model being the most popular, but the range is pretty broad. His target market? Affordable hi-fi. And given today’s market realities, I find this to be smart thinking.

Everything Tekton makes is built and tested by Eric himself. His grandfather was a carpenter, so Eric’s been playing with wood and making cabinets since he was a kid
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Nothing in that passage indicates any level of competence whatsoever with loudspeaker design. Literally nothing. Sounds like he was an audio installer who started a speaker company.
 
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