New HT Room

[Shock]

I want to lay on that couch.

 

[rmk]

You should check out the new Panasonic projector. It has anamorphic memory settings that automatically can switch back and forth between 16.9 and 2.35 etc.

Lens Memory. Are you interested in Cinemascope 2.35 widescreen format? A lot of home theater enthusiasts who are mostly interested in widescreen movie viewing (as opposed to HDTV sports and 16:9 HD broadcast programming), are considering the wider format 2.35 screens these days since most movies being made are in this format. The problem has always been how to get the picture from a native 16:9 format projector to fill a 2.35:1 widescreen. The traditional method is to use an external anamorphic lens which can optically distort the image from a 16:9 aspect ratio into the wider 2.35 format. This certainly is one option. Unfortunately, anamorphic lenses cost a lot of money. Typically they are more expensive than the AE3000. So they add a huge expense that most people thinking about buying the AE3000 wouldn't want to pay.

The "poor man's" way to solve the problem has been to use a projector with a long enough zoom lens to move the image size back and forth-zooming to wide angle to fill a 2.35 screen, then zooming forward to fill the vertical height of the screen when a 16:9 or 4:3 image is being viewed. This eliminates the need to buy an anamorphic lens, but it introduces the nuisance factor of having to manually adjust the zoom lens and (often) vertical picture height as well every time you change the format of the viewing material. This can get annoying in a hurry.

Panasonic's "Lens Memory" system is a clever and exciting solution to this problem. If you have a 2.35 (or 2.4) screen, you can set up the projector with the lens toward the wide angle end, and fill the screen exactly to the format of a 2.35 (or 2.4) movie. Activate the Lens Memory feature, and it will go through a routine to memorize the exact position you have selected for the lens. Then zoom the lens forward so that a 16:9 picture fits perfectly into the height of your 2.35 screen. Now activate the Lens Memory feature again, and it will memorize this setting as well. Once you have done this, the AE3000 will automatically reset the lens either to 2.35 or 16:9 at the touch of a button. Presto! You've got an easy-to-use solution for 2.35 Cinemascope movies without the burdensome expense of the anamorphic lens.

We examined this feature closely to ensure that the zooming adjustments were precise and that focus was maintained after each re-adjustment. On our test sample, it passed with flying colors. In addition, keep in mind one thing: If your projector is mounted above the centerpoint of the screen so that it is projecting at a downward angle, the center of the projected image will shift vertically when moving from 2.35 to 16:9. The good news is that the AE3000 has the ability to reposition the 2.35 image up or down within the 16:9 native frame, and this capability has been integrated into the Lens Memory feature. So if your projector is mounted above the center of the screen, you can set both the lens position and the position of the image in the frame, and they will both adjust with a single touch of the button.

Hi Westcott,
I looked at and actually pre-ordered the AE3000. Changed my mind based upon early user impressions and then, the JVC deal came up so I'm set with the projector. The lens memory feature of the AE3000 is very cool but the zoom on the HD100 will do essentially the same thing for me as long as I don't have to adjust the horizontal image position. Honestly, the less electro-mechanical these things are the better I like them.

 

[jostenmeat]

hey rmk, after briefly mulling over your latest photo, methinks that a false wall + AT auto masking system would be awesome. Expensive on one hand for the auto masking, but I think you might actually be done for a long while!!

The problem is how big the screen needs to be. Because the bar on the bottom of screen, or anything that is not AT, that falls in the way of any drivers is no good, obviously.

So, if its AT, its going to fall below the entire center speaker, but most likely fit in between the mains. If the full screen falls flush to the top of the center speaker, you don't even need AT, which has its own benefits I suppose.

I've never owned a flat panel, but if the plasma didn't have to be quite as recessed, IOW pulled out a bit, I think it can look pretty good in some "shadow-box/false wall" scenario.

Whaddya think?

Ok, after second look, I say AT that falls beneath the center speaker. For if you have auto masking, you can basically have any darn size, for any AR, at any damn time you please. Therefore, might as well have giganormous-mode available at any time you wish.

Basically a screen big enough, mounted just low enough, where it can simultaneously fall beneath entire center, but stay between mains.

I admit I am talking above my head. But I like my idea.

 

[rmk]

hey rmk, after briefly mulling over your latest photo, methinks that a false wall + AT auto masking system would be awesome. Expensive on one hand for the auto masking, but I think you might actually be done for a long while!!

The problem is how big the screen needs to be. Because the bar on the bottom of screen, or anything that is not AT, that falls in the way of any drivers is no good, obviously.

So, if its AT, its going to fall below the entire center speaker, but most likely fit in between the mains. If the full screen falls flush to the top of the center speaker, you don't even need AT, which has its own benefits I suppose.

I've never owned a flat panel, but if the plasma didn't have to be quite as recessed, IOW pulled out a bit, I think it can look pretty good in some "shadow-box/false wall" scenario.

Whaddya think?

Ok, after second look, I say AT that falls beneath the center speaker. For if you have auto masking, you can basically have any darn size, for any AR, at any damn time you please. Therefore, might as well have giganormous-mode available at any time you wish.

Basically a screen big enough, mounted just low enough, where it can simultaneously fall beneath entire center, but stay between mains.

I admit I am talking above my head. But I like my idea.

You have been thinking ... haven't you

I have run through all of the scenarios you described and I am even kicking around some really crazy ideas but nothing solid yet. I do appreciate your comments and suggestions. It looks like the Plasma is history unless I stand pat (that'll never happen) or just go to a larger 120" or so 2.35:1 Powered tensioned as that would drop to just above the LCR's so no AT needed. That way I get to keep the Plasma but the speakers/subs remain visible.

 

[rmk]

Display angst

There just is no easy way to get to true CIH (2.35:1,1.78:1) fully automated AT masking without spending large cash. Even DIY done right is problematic. I had a shot at a full ISCO lens/sled and Draper dual masking screen for a great price but it was not AT. There are so many sync issues with trigger/remote activation of these devices that it makes my head hurt.

Since there is no clear path to what I want without spending at least $20K (and that is a low side estimate) I think I will hold off for a bit. I appreciate all the suggestions and will continue to investigate although at a less arduous pace.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Yeah, when it starts to be a headache its time to stop and just enjoy what you have for a while. Then when you get the urge and reset, you can keep digging.

Or just pick something else to tinker with. I kinda move around with what I'm interested in, amps, screens, computer stuff, music sources, etc. When I get bored with looking at stuff I put it on hold and end up coming back to it in a few months or so while I tinker with something else audio related.

 

[rmk]

Yeah, when it starts to be a headache its time to stop and just enjoy what you have for a while. Then when you get the urge and reset, you can keep digging.

Or just pick something else to tinker with. I kinda move around with what I'm interested in, amps, screens, computer stuff, music sources, etc. When I get bored with looking at stuff I put it on hold and end up coming back to it in a few months or so while I tinker with something else audio related.

Good suggestions Sensi, thanks.

If don't do the screen I'm kinda out of AV projects at this point. I may have to start playin some golf.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Good suggestions Sensi, thanks.

If don't do the screen I'm kinda out of AV projects at this point. I may have to start playin some golf.

Buy a Playstation and a bag of weed. Start playing on Friday and wake up Wednesday wondering where you weekend went.

 

[Porschetech]

Buy a Playstation and a bag of weed. Start playing on Friday and wake up Wednesday wondering where you weekend went.

hahahahaaaaaaaa

 

[rmk]

Buy a Playstation and a bag of weed. Start playing on Friday and wake up Wednesday wondering where you weekend went.

No time for games and my cannabis days are long past. Now a beer or glass of wine does the trick and I don’t get the munchies.

I have the day off will be trying some new locations for the Danley's in an attempt to get a bit more tactile. Will post pics.

 

[rmk]

I moved the SPUD's exit port outboard to the wall corners per suggestions from Tom Danley and others. What a difference a little corner loading makes!. With that simple change, I now have much more <20hz output as well as a nice gain across all frequencies. The tactile is at a perfect level and the systems sounds the best it ever has.
Here is a FR from the SMS-1:

I'm going to have another GTG soon so show off the new PJ and subs. Will post pics.

 

[westcott]

I moved the SPUD's exit port outboard to the wall corners per suggestions from Tom Danley and others. What a difference a little corner loading makes!. With that simple change, I now have much more <20hz output as well as a nice gain across all frequencies. The tactile is at a perfect level and the systems sounds the best it ever has.
Here is a FR from the SMS-1:

I'm going to have another GTG soon so show off the new PJ and subs. Will post pics.

Glad to see someone actually doing their homework. The frequency response really does look pretty good across the board.

Congratulations!

 

[rmk]

Glad to see someone actually doing their homework. The frequency response really does look pretty good across the board.

Congratulations!

Thanks Westcott, I could have used the slider to tame that little bump at 22hz but that is an area where a little extra oomph is kinda nice. Overall it is sounding just fine.

 

[rmk]

With all the economic gloom and doom predictions and reality, it is actually a great time to be buying AV gear. I was able to pick up dealer demos of the JVC HD-100 (RS2) and now a Stewart Luxus A powered tensioned screen with the Reference StudioTek fabric. I got both of these at much less than dealer cost.

As a result of this video upgrade, I will also be painting the ceiling and room moldings (crown and base) as well as the white doors using dark colors. The goal is to "enhance" the movie viewing experience.

I have now come full circle from my original multipurpose space to what is really a dedicate HT room. I'll post some pictures when I get it all together in the next week or two.

 

[jostenmeat]

Great to hear rmk. Yeah, I agree, you got that PJ for a steal.

I found that treating the boundaries for light is about as effective for PQ as acoustically treating is for AQ.

FWIW, I bought two very large black Ikea rugs to put in front of the screen as well. I can't get myself to paint the ceiling a dark color, but most any other boundary within the field of view is dark.

 

[rmk]

Great to hear rmk. Yeah, I agree, you got that PJ for a steal.

I found that treating the boundaries for light is about as effective for PQ as acoustically treating is for AQ.

FWIW, I bought two very large black Ikea rugs to put in front of the screen as well. I can't get myself to paint the ceiling a dark color, but most any other boundary within the field of view is dark.

I mounted the Stewart last night and it is a nice upgrade from the Elite as you would expect based upon the price delta. Watched some Dark Knight BR and it looked great. Very happy with that upgrade.

My screen is 40" off the floor (speaker height) so not much issue with the carpet color. I'm struggling with the painting. The room looks pretty good now I don't want to turn it into a cave for what has to be a marginal improvement image quality.

 

[jostenmeat]

Oh, right, my bad. I forgot you already painted quite a bit. And I forgot about that red rug there too. For some reason, I had some large scale repainting of the room in mind... sorry!

Ah, but then again, ceiling is a pretty large area. I vote flat black! Only fear that I would have is that it would be hard to get out, even after repainting white...

I'm sure you'll find what suits you best . . . .

 

[mike c]

hey RMK, what is your distance from the screen? (also how high is your ceiling?)

[and how much did the stewart set you back?)

 

[rmk]

hey RMK, what is your distance from the screen? (also how high is your ceiling?)

[and how much did the stewart set you back?)

I'm about 15' from the screen. The ceilings are 9' and the speakers (LCR) are 40" tall so that pretty much dictated max screen size @ 106" daig. Although the screen is a little high, with the HT chairs reclined the viewing angle is perfect. The overall geometry of screen to projector to VP is pretty close to optimal.

The MSLP of the Stewart was approx $4K. I paid less than a PB13 costs before shipping

 

[Bluesmoke]

$4k for a screen? Holy crap!