bicycles

[lovinthehd]

I think after using the 28 uphill I'll need the small gear. Besides chain rings, cassette, and rear derailleur, any other parts I'd need before replacing?

Rear cog? Front chainring?

 

[Dude#1279435]

Rear cog? Front chainring?

That's what I meant. Front chainring. Rear cog too.

 

[lovinthehd]

That's what I meant. Front chainring. Rear cog too.

I just couldn't remember which way you went at either end....if you move down to a 26t or 24t chainring up front it would help on the hills. If your largest in the rear is a 28 then maybe moving up to a 32t maybe 34t might be the way to go. In each case the derailleur has a total capacity spec to watch. Sometimes you have to change derailleur, sometimes not....remind me of which derailleurs you've got....

 

[Dude#1279435]

I just couldn't remember which way you went at either end....if you move down to a 26t or 24t chainring up front it would help on the hills. If your largest in the rear is a 28 then maybe moving up to a 32t maybe 34t might be the way to go. In each case the derailleur has a total capacity spec to watch. Sometimes you have to change derailleur, sometimes not....remind me of which derailleurs you've got....

Derailleurs
Shimano Acera RD-M360 rear, FD-M191 bottom pull front

Cassette
SRAM PG 820 8-Speed 11-32T

 

[lovinthehd]

Damn Shimano has replaced their older technical documents with somewhat relatively useless general instructions, can't find the tooth capacity on the front derailleur but I suspect a change to a 24t could be problematic. Was looking at some of my saved documents for some front derailleurs I've used and the capacity was 22t (diff between largest and smallest rings' tooth count). So maybe a 26t would be the smallest you could go unless you used a smaller big ring....

Looking at the differences between changing to say a 34t which your rear derailleur could accomodate vs changing the front ring, in gear inches (lower is easier to climb with), using Sheldon Brown's calculator
28 x 32 like you have now is 23.6 gear inches
28 x 34 with a cassette change is 22.2 gear inches
26 x 32 with a front chainring change is 21.9 gear inches
26 x 34 changing both would yield 20.6 gear inches.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Damn Shimano has replaced their older technical documents with somewhat relatively useless general instructions, can't find the tooth capacity on the front derailleur but I suspect a change to a 24t could be problematic. Was looking at some of my saved documents for some front derailleurs I've used and the capacity was 22t (diff between largest and smallest rings' tooth count). So maybe a 26t would be the smallest you could go unless you used a smaller big ring....

Looking at the differences between changing to say a 34t which your rear derailleur could accomodate vs changing the front ring, in gear inches (lower is easier to climb with), using Sheldon Brown's calculator
28 x 32 like you have now is 23.6 gear inches
28 x 34 with a cassette change is 22.2 gear inches
26 x 32 with a front chainring change is 21.9 gear inches
26 x 34 changing both would yield 20.6 gear inches.

There much of a upgrade from the acera derailleur or sram cassette I have?

 

[lovinthehd]

There much of a upgrade from the acera derailleur or sram cassette I have?

Not really. If the derailleur shifts the chain from cog to cog without issue, there's really no need to change a derailleur out....the models further up the Shimano food chain may have slight advantages in weight/durability if compatible. If you break it/tweak it then maybe consider changing it out, and moving up the model lines might be attractive depending on pricing. Mostly I've used Shimano drivetrains, usually XT level, some SLX/LX too as well as some XTR. Altho my last two bikes have SRAM drivetrains with 12 speed rear cassettes and single chainrings up front and are not compatible with my older Shimano stuff.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Not really. If the derailleur shifts the chain from cog to cog without issue, there's really no need to change a derailleur out....the models further up the Shimano food chain may have slight advantages in weight/durability if compatible. If you break it/tweak it then maybe consider changing it out, and moving up the model lines might be attractive depending on pricing. Mostly I've used Shimano drivetrains, usually XT level, some SLX/LX too as well as some XTR. Altho my last two bikes have SRAM drivetrains with 12 speed rear cassettes and single chainrings up front and are not compatible with my older Shimano stuff.

It shifts, but the high and low gears either don't shift or fall off. I'm thinking that's an indexing problem??? The bike is five years old, but none of the parts have been replaced that I'm aware of. Does this sound like more of a rear derailleur, cassette, or chain ring issue? I'm thinking it's a lot easier to just replace all of it and start fresh along with a new chain. I know I can't place any heavy pedal pressure on or the chain drops out of gear.

 

[lovinthehd]

It shifts, but the high and low gears either don't shift or fall off. I'm thinking that's an indexing problem??? The bike is five years old, but none of the parts have been replaced that I'm aware of. Does this sound like more of a rear derailleur, cassette, or chain ring issue? I'm thinking it's a lot easier to just replace all of it and start fresh along with a new chain. I know I can't place any heavy pedal pressure on or the chain drops out of gear.

Need more description. We are talking about the rear cassette only? Not shifting onto a particular cog could be a limit screw adjustment issue, if it won't stay on a particular cog could be an alignment/cable adjustment issue. You're not trying to use the largest cog with the largest chainring (or its opposite, the smallest cog with the smallest chainring)? That's generally to be avoided. Time to learn how to adjust derailleurs. Try this video for some basics for rear derailleurs

Five years of use probably has most of that drivetrain worn out....particularly the cassette cogs/chainrings you use the most. Generally a new chain on worn cogs/rings will slip under pressure, and why when used for such a long period you generally replace the cassette, chainrings and chain together (then regularly change chains to extend the life of the others). That slipping under pressure could be partly what you're experiencing with a worn drivetrain.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Need more description. We are talking about the rear cassette only? Not shifting onto a particular cog could be a limit screw adjustment issue, if it won't stay on a particular cog could be an alignment/cable adjustment issue. You're not trying to use the largest cog with the largest chainring (or its opposite, the smallest cog with the smallest chainring)? That's generally to be avoided. Time to learn how to adjust derailleurs. Try this video for some basics for rear derailleurs

Five years of use probably has most of that drivetrain worn out....particularly the cassette cogs/chainrings you use the most. Generally a new chain on worn cogs/rings will slip under pressure, and why when used for such a long period you generally replace the cassette, chainrings and chain together (then regularly change chains to extend the life of the others). That slipping under pressure could be partly what you're experiencing with a worn drivetrain.

Likely a limit screw adjustment is needed. I'm not trying do as you said with the cogs. Rear cassette only. Time to replace the drivetrain. Even the middle gears that shift fine but grind a bit even after having cleaned them. I'm gonna go back to the liquid wrench spray and see if that gives me a little bit better smoothness for the short-term with the chain.

 

[lovinthehd]

Likely a limit screw adjustment is needed. I'm not trying do as you said with the cogs. Rear cassette only. Time to replace the drivetrain. Even the middle gears that shift fine but grind a bit even after having cleaned them. I'm gonna go back to the liquid wrench spray and see if that gives me a little bit better smoothness for the short-term with the chain.

Good luck! You did get 5 years out of it which is impressive. Did you find that video useful? I like their riding help videos mostly, but thought he did a good job of explaining derailleurs....

 

[MR.MAGOO]

been Googleing 'folding bikes made in USA', so far no luck.

 

[lovinthehd]

Folding is but one aspect/description. What size wheels? Geared? How many gears? Something you can with minimal tools make into a compact form fairly easily without major disassembly work? Overall dimensions critical? What sort of traveling do you need to take such a bike with you folded?

Not sure the frame would be US made but Tom Ritchey (a good US guy, I've had the pleasure of both doing business with him and riding with him, one of the most awesome and important people in US cycling history) has made bikes using S&S couplings in the past (but didn't dig around Ritchey's site), check with them and or S&S.
There are a variety of custom builders who would gladly incorporate S&S couplings that build bikes in the US. General folding bikes I remember are mostly of foreign origin, tho....just depends how much you want to spend or at least budget for the US requirement.

been Googleing 'folding bikes made in USA', so far no luck.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Looks like the piston on my back wheel is loose which makes my tire move from side to side. I think that's why I'm having flats. I'll have to double check but would be swapping a 700x32 for a 700x16 rim. Not sure the 6-gear cassette (x16 rim) is gonna be a smooth transfer though with my 8-speed shift. Any thoughts?

 

[lovinthehd]

Piston? Only pistons I can think of on a bike would be those in a hydraulic disc brake.....

If your tire is rubbing against the frame or other components, that could be an issue. Flats of what kind? Pinch flats? Thorns/objects in the road? Might consider tubeless if the latter, more attention to air pressure if the former. A wheel moving side to side sounds either out of true, worn/badly adjusted rear hub bearings or perhaps just a badly molded tire where it looks like something else is going wrong....

A different wheel and cassette could have more complications than just the shifter. Is the axle spacing the same? You might be able to use the shifter, might not be able to use the indexing of the shifter, tho.

Just what wheels are we talking about here? My fattest rim on my mountain bikes is 40mm....the rest far less.....this the commuter bike or fat bike?

 

[Dude#1279435]

Piston? Only pistons I can think of on a bike would be those in a hydraulic disc brake.....

If your tire is rubbing against the frame or other components, that could be an issue. Flats of what kind? Pinch flats? Thorns/objects in the road? Might consider tubeless if the latter, more attention to air pressure if the former. A wheel moving side to side sounds either out of true, worn/badly adjusted rear hub bearings or perhaps just a badly molded tire where it looks like something else is going wrong....

A different wheel and cassette could have more complications than just the shifter. Is the axle spacing the same? You might be able to use the shifter, might not be able to use the indexing of the shifter, tho.

Just what wheels are we talking about here? My fattest rim on my mountain bikes is 40mm....the rest far less.....this the commuter bike or fat bike?

It's the axel. It moves when I push it. I don't remember the exact rim size but the tires would go down from 700x32 to 700x23. On the smaller rim it does say the rim tape is 16mm. It's the commuter. I put a new tube in for the meantime to get to work and back but will try the smaller rim tomorrow. I'm guessing because it wobbles slightly that's whats making the flats. I've had two now in about a two week span.

 

[lovinthehd]

It's the axel. It moves when I push it. I don't remember the exact rim size but the tires would go down from 700x32 to 700x23. On the smaller rim it does say the rim tape is 16mm. It's the commuter. I put a new tube in for the meantime to get to work and back but will try the smaller rim tomorrow. I'm guessing because it wobbles slightly that's whats making the flats. I've had two now in about a two week span.

Axle bearings perhaps need adjustment/replacement but need more description of which way the axle is moving---if you grab the rim and rock it side to side you're getting play? Or something else? Tire size is different from rim size, altho they're related in use. Rim tape is more about the width of the spoke hole channel it's going to cover in the rim, rims need various size rim tape as needed by their design. Then again a narrower tire will likely just increase flats in general, I much prefer running a 25 over a 23 on my road bike, which is more a racing model than commuter but all I can fit is a 25, would prefer a 28.

If you're just going to replace the wheel, make sure that it is the same spacing on the axle lock nuts as the old wheel. I think yours would be a 130mm spacing, as its more road bike spec'd than mountain bike (which would be 135 or bigger). The width is that not only of your frame's dropouts, but from the outside of one axle locknut to the other....

When figuring out what made it go flat you need to inspect the tube for what type of damage it sustained. Many are pinch-flats caused by low tire pressure when hitting sharp edges...also called snake bite flats as you can generally get two matching small tears in the tube from each side of the rim.. If it's a puncture from a thorn or a tack or nail that's something else. Wobbling alone doesn't make a lot of sense

 

[Dude#1279435]

Axle bearings perhaps need adjustment/replacement but need more description of which way the axle is moving---if you grab the rim and rock it side to side you're getting play? Or something else? Tire size is different from rim size, altho they're related in use. Rim tape is more about the width of the spoke hole channel it's going to cover in the rim, rims need various size rim tape as needed by their design. Then again a narrower tire will likely just increase flats in general, I much prefer running a 25 over a 23 on my road bike, which is more a racing model than commuter but all I can fit is a 25, would prefer a 28.

If you're just going to replace the wheel, make sure that it is the same spacing on the axle lock nuts as the old wheel. I think yours would be a 130mm spacing, as its more road bike spec'd than mountain bike (which would be 135 or bigger). The width is that not only of your frame's dropouts, but from the outside of one axle locknut to the other....

When figuring out what made it go flat you need to inspect the tube for what type of damage it sustained. Many are pinch-flats caused by low tire pressure when hitting sharp edges...also called snake bite flats as you can generally get two matching small tears in the tube from each side of the rim.. If it's a puncture from a thorn or a tack or nail that's something else. Wobbling alone doesn't make a lot of sense

I took the Axel out. Its moving in and out on both ends. Think I will stick with the same rim size and find a new tire. Or replace the Axel.

 

[lovinthehd]

I took the Axel out. Its moving in and out on both ends. Think I will stick with the same rim size and find a new tire. Or replace the Axel.

You took the axle out of the hub? You know what you're doing there? You don't mean a quick release skewer, do you?

 

[Dude#1279435]

You took the axle out of the hub? You know what you're doing there? You don't mean a quick release skewer, do you?

Yes quick release. Then I was pushing in and out with the spacers/Axel rod.