Yamaha AVENTAGE 2021 AV Receivers Bulk Up on Power and 8K Features

[jakkedtide]

Agree with everyone else. Looks good and this is how I have mine set up, too.

Some random tips:

-use an SPL meter to calibrate speaker levels.
-using a single female to dual male Y RCA cable on the subwoofer end of your sub connections if they have L/R inputs will give your subs more voltage which is kind of a weak point on Yamaha AVRs.
-I also think the sectional on the right is a problem lol
-you might want to avoid Surround AI with all those speakers. It's really personal taste but with a full system like 7.2.4 you won't be getting the virtual speaker benefit and Surround AI will really just be widening the soundstage a little bit and adding a LOT of reverb for no reason.
-big ass rugs are always nice on hardwood floors (helps with sound reflection)
-any time you make a change like the above, re-run YPAO, and at the moment don't measure from more than 3 points due to a bug.

The Yamaha a8a has a left and right output on the back. So you say I should just use one and tie the two subs together?

 

[OldAndSlowDev]

The Yamaha a8a has a left and right output on the back. So you say I should just use one and tie the two subs together?

Left and right ? On mine it’s front and back…

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

The Yamaha a8a has a left and right output on the back. So you say I should just use one and tie the two subs together?

What I think he’s actually trying to say is, the connection at the subwoofer should use both LR connections via splitter. It doesn’t raise the voltage from the AVR, but rather the input sensitivity in the subwoofer. It doesn’t allow for any more power though. Also, as I am not familiar with your subs, I’m. Ot sure you can do that anyway. Usually nowadays, one input is the “LFE” input and uses the crossover in the AVR, while the other one uses the XO/LPF on the subwoofer. If they’re giving adequate output, I wouldn’t worry about it. Until maybe someday when you upgrade them.

 

[OldAndSlowDev]

What I think he’s actually trying to say is, the connection at the subwoofer should use both LR connections via splitter. It doesn’t raise the voltage from the AVR, but rather the input sensitivity in the subwoofer. It doesn’t allow for any more power though. Also, as I am not familiar with your subs, I’m. Ot sure you can do that anyway. Usually nowadays, one input is the “LFE” input and uses the crossover in the AVR, while the other one uses the XO/LPF on the subwoofer. If they’re giving adequate output, I wouldn’t worry about it. Until maybe someday when you upgrade them.

OK so he can use the two output without a spliter and choose monaural x2

 

[ryanosaur]

OK so he can use the two output without a spliter

No.
You never want to connect both outputs from the AVR to a single Sub.
To clarify, you run a single output to a "Y" splitter, plugging Both Ends of the "Y," 1 each, into the L and R Inputs on the Plate Amp of the Sub.

 

[OldAndSlowDev]

No.
You never want to connect both outputs from the AVR to a single Sub.
To clarify, you run a single output to a "Y" splitter, plugging Both Ends of the "Y," 1 each, into the L and R Inputs on the Plate Amp of the Sub.

Ok, I didn't get that the L/R was on the subwoofer. Totally a noob here and my subs only have a single LFE input.

 

[ryanosaur]

Ok, I didn't get that the L/R was on the subwoofer. Totally a noob here and my subs only have a single LFE input.

Most Plate Amps now have inputs like this Monolith Sub. An LFE RCA Input + an option to use Both RCA Inputs as L/R. (My Outlaws seem to want the L as the LFE, if only using one.) Then you have an XLR Input and an XLR Through output.

 

[clone1008]

What I think he’s actually trying to say is, the connection at the subwoofer should use both LR connections via splitter. It doesn’t raise the voltage from the AVR, but rather the input sensitivity in the subwoofer. It doesn’t allow for any more power though. Also, as I am not familiar with your subs, I’m. Ot sure you can do that anyway. Usually nowadays, one input is the “LFE” input and uses the crossover in the AVR, while the other one uses the XO/LPF on the subwoofer. If they’re giving adequate output, I wouldn’t worry about it. Until maybe someday when you upgrade them.

This is from Mike's guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences....
One final issue involves Yamaha AVR's which yield abnormally high trim levels no matter how high the subwoofer gain levels are turned-up. This can be a much more significant problem than the auto-on issue. In a recent example from early October of 2021, a new Yamaha RX-A8A exhibited this issue of setting abnormally high trim levels with the subwoofer gains also set high. Some before-and-after screen shots of trim levels, showing the problem being solved with Y-connectors, are illustrated on Page 218 of the Guide thread. If you believe that your Yamaha (or Onkyo) AVR may be exhibiting similar behavior, it could be worthwhile to look at the pictures on Page 218.

Apparently, this can also be an issue with Onkyo AVR's. The typical voltage sent from AVR's to subwoofers is about 2.0V or slightly higher. I'm not sure what the voltage coming from some Yamaha AVR's is, but I have been informed by AVS member @fattire that with some Onkyo's it is only 0.9V. If the subwoofer receives substantially less voltage than the typical 2.0V, then its performance may be adversely affected, and that limitation may show-up during calibration. The subwoofer trim levels may be set too high even with very high subwoofer gain levels. That can be an indication that the subwoofer is not able to reach its normal output potential.

Where this problem is believed to be occurring, the way to correct it is to use a Y-connector into both sub inputs. That will double the voltage going from the AVR to the subwoofer. So, using Y-connectors can allow subwoofers to turn on automatically in some cases, and they can also be used to allow the subwoofer to achieve its full operating performance. Once again though, the Y-connectors are only effective where the voltage coming from the AVR is insufficient. They won't improve on the inherent performance capabilities of the subwoofer. Its own amplifier will determine the subwoofer's inherent capability.

This is an example of the type of Y-connector which would be used to increase the voltage going from the AVR to the subwoofer:

Amazon.com: Amazon Basics 2-Male to 1-Female RCA Y-Adapter Splitter Cable - 12-Inches

 

[jakkedtide]

Left and right ? On mine it’s front and back…

Yeah but you can set it to left and right when you run ypao

 

[jakkedtide]

What I think he’s actually trying to say is, the connection at the subwoofer should use both LR connections via splitter. It doesn’t raise the voltage from the AVR, but rather the input sensitivity in the subwoofer. It doesn’t allow for any more power though. Also, as I am not familiar with your subs, I’m. Ot sure you can do that anyway. Usually nowadays, one input is the “LFE” input and uses the crossover in the AVR, while the other one uses the XO/LPF on the subwoofer. If they’re giving adequate output, I wouldn’t worry about it. Until maybe someday when you upgrade them.

I have https://www.klipsch.ca/products/spl-120-subwoofer

They are new klipsch spl 120

 

[clone1008]

I have https://www.klipsch.ca/products/spl-120-subwoofer

They are new klipsch spl 120

https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025618511-Is-a-Y-Splitter-Needed-to-Hook-Up-My-Subwoofer-

In addition, if you still use the RCA "Y" splitter cable, you have the potential to boost the sub's output signal when plugging into both the red and white RCA inputs on the back of the sub. If you choose to do this, please note that connecting both inputs in parallel will double the input voltage which equals a 6dB boost in output. However, the input impedance will then be effectively "halved" and that could potentially cause loading problems for some sources (receivers, amps etc.). Overall, it is not recommended to use a Y-splitter on any of our powered subwoofers that were manufactured in the past 10 years or so.

 

[jakkedtide]

https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025618511-Is-a-Y-Splitter-Needed-to-Hook-Up-My-Subwoofer-

In addition, if you still use the RCA "Y" splitter cable, you have the potential to boost the sub's output signal when plugging into both the red and white RCA inputs on the back of the sub. If you choose to do this, please note that connecting both inputs in parallel will double the input voltage which equals a 6dB boost in output. However, the input impedance will then be effectively "halved" and that could potentially cause loading problems for some sources (receivers, amps etc.). Overall, it is not recommended to use a Y-splitter on any of our powered subwoofers that were manufactured in the past 10 years or so.

OK so don't use a y splitter! Good to know! I can always raise the DB manually anyways.

 

[ryanosaur]

OK so don't use a y splitter! Good to know! I can always raise the DB manually anyways.

If you use the auto on feature where it is available (as opposed to a trigger), and it does not activate when a signal should be sent to the sub, using the Y splitter is a good trick to try.

 

[clone1008]

OK so don't use a y splitter! Good to know! I can always raise the DB manually anyways.

The only real reason to need a Y-splitter is if you are having a problem getting your subwoofer to turn on when in standby mode because of a low input voltage at low volumes. Other than that there is no real benefit from it.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

This is from Mike's guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences....
One final issue involves Yamaha AVR's which yield abnormally high trim levels no matter how high the subwoofer gain levels are turned-up. This can be a much more significant problem than the auto-on issue. In a recent example from early October of 2021, a new Yamaha RX-A8A exhibited this issue of setting abnormally high trim levels with the subwoofer gains also set high. Some before-and-after screen shots of trim levels, showing the problem being solved with Y-connectors, are illustrated on Page 218 of the Guide thread. If you believe that your Yamaha (or Onkyo) AVR may be exhibiting similar behavior, it could be worthwhile to look at the pictures on Page 218.

Apparently, this can also be an issue with Onkyo AVR's. The typical voltage sent from AVR's to subwoofers is about 2.0V or slightly higher. I'm not sure what the voltage coming from some Yamaha AVR's is, but I have been informed by AVS member @fattire that with some Onkyo's it is only 0.9V. If the subwoofer receives substantially less voltage than the typical 2.0V, then its performance may be adversely affected, and that limitation may show-up during calibration. The subwoofer trim levels may be set too high even with very high subwoofer gain levels. That can be an indication that the subwoofer is not able to reach its normal output potential.

Where this problem is believed to be occurring, the way to correct it is to use a Y-connector into both sub inputs. That will double the voltage going from the AVR to the subwoofer. So, using Y-connectors can allow subwoofers to turn on automatically in some cases, and they can also be used to allow the subwoofer to achieve its full operating performance. Once again though, the Y-connectors are only effective where the voltage coming from the AVR is insufficient. They won't improve on the inherent performance capabilities of the subwoofer. Its own amplifier will determine the subwoofer's inherent capability.

This is an example of the type of Y-connector which would be used to increase the voltage going from the AVR to the subwoofer:

View attachment 52434

Amazon.com: Amazon Basics 2-Male to 1-Female RCA Y-Adapter Splitter Cable - 12-Inches

Oh yes, mike is a great human being. Always gives thoughtful advice.
Again, The Y splitter doesn’t raise the output voltage from the AVR, because it can’t. The AVR will put out what it puts out. Iirc 1.4v was common for Yamaha, and holy cow! Didn’t know Onkyo ever had output voltage of .9v, that’s insane. I always thought they were Over 2v. Interesting.
I believe we are mostly in agreement, especially with gain structure.
If a user has problems “waking” the subs, then making sure the trim is high enough without going positive is ideal. As far as reaching a subs full potential, splitting the signal at the subwoofer increases the input sensitivity, meaning that it can reach full potential with less gain. It does nothing to increase total output, or performance in general.
Basically we’re talking about compensation for Yamahas weak output voltages from the pre outs. This is also a problem with driving amplifiers too.
It’s odd and frustrating from a company that has a nice pedigree.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

The only real reason to need a Y-splitter is if you are having a problem getting your subwoofer to turn on when in standby mode because of a low input voltage at low volumes. Other than that there is no real benefit from it.

Yes.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I have https://www.klipsch.ca/products/spl-120-subwoofer

They are new klipsch spl 120

Be patient grasshopper…upgraditis will come…The rabbit hole is as deep as the bass extension you seek.

 

[clone1008]

I believe we are mostly in agreement, especially with gain structure.

Most definitely, I was just giving you reading material that i thought you would find interesting, which it seems you did.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Most definitely, I was just giving you reading material that i thought you would find interesting, which it seems you did.

Indeed I did. I’ve also interacted with Mike a few times, and found we mostly agree as well. Thanks for sharing!

 

[clone1008]

The rabbit hole is as deep as the bass extension you seek.

I would venture to say it's deeper.