TC 2000 sealed with 2400 watts?

WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
For goodness sake, you have one of the best sub drivers made, an excellent pair of active monitors... but no proper way to use them. If you want to actually use them to their potential, get a DCX2496 and feed your soundcard input to the DCX, then connect the DCX to the active monitors (use an XLR to RCA adapter + -12dB Harrison Labs inline RCA attenuators) and feed the DCX directly to the pro audio sub amp. The DCX is not only going to let you do PROPER crossover set up (even if your soundcard has bass managment, it will not do so nearly as well as a DCX), you will have proper FULL control over your active monitors and subwoofer(s).

Save up a little more if you don't have the money to get the DCX right now. It will be well worth it. Anything less is going to be a substantial compromise.

-Chris
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
I will give that a try tomorrow and report back. Will that explain the very low output in general? Probably because my motherboard is feeding the amp a super weak signal.
What is the make and exact model # of your motherboard?
 
krzywica

krzywica

Audioholic Samurai
I will give that a try tomorrow and report back. Will that explain the very low output in general? Probably because my motherboard is feeding the amp a super weak signal.
Sounds like the OS (I'm assuming Windows) is not configured properly to send an unaltered full range signal to the speakers. I'm sure thats not the whole issue but likely part of it.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Sounds like the OS (I'm assuming Windows) is not configured properly to send an unaltered full range signal to the speakers. I'm sure thats not the whole issue but likely part of it.
Setting up windows for proper sound is a difficult thing. and there are many different places things could be going wrong here

First, make sure you wired properly.

Second make sure you have the gain knobs on you ep2500 turned up some. If you really have to crank them high then your signal is too weak.

Use a mixer to convert the signal to an XLR one. Mixers are engineered to handle the output of a computer and make it work for a pro-audio setup. So get one.

Also add a crossover of some kind. If you can afford the DCX2496 then get that. If not pick up a CX2310 and use that.

Step 1- You hook up your computer to a mixer.

Step 2- You hook up your mixers XLR speaker outputs to a crossover.

Step 3- Hook up your subs amplifier and your speakers amplifiers to the Crossover

That's probably the cleanest least problematic way to pull this off. Jimmy rigging is fun, but in this case it's just not working.
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
I loved this "Anything less is going to be a substantial compromise"... I'm not a compromising kind of person. I will be placing an order for my ULTRADRIVE PRO DCX2496. I will need help, via another parts-express order, ordering whatever cables and connectors I will need.
Chris mentioned "Harrison Labs 12 dB RCA Line Level Attenuator Pair" and I have no idea what this is.
Sound cards have an 1/8" stereo output. I would like to get all the proper connections and the DCX ordered today.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I loved this "Anything less is going to be a substantial compromise"... I'm not a compromising kind of person. I will be placing an order for my ULTRADRIVE PRO DCX2496. I will need help, via another parts-express order, ordering whatever cables and connectors I will need.
Chris mentioned "Harrison Labs 12 dB RCA Line Level Attenuator Pair" and I have no idea what this is.
Sound cards have an 1/8" stereo output. I would like to get all the proper connections and the DCX ordered today.
12 db attenuators
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-244

You connect these to the back of your Audio Engine input. Use an XLR to RCA adapter to plug in to the DCX output. Use a short RCA cable from this adapter to the harrison lab attenuators.

Two of these will be needed:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-428

And you will need two of these to use on the DCX inputs. Use a standard stereo phono to RCA split cable from your soundcard:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-438

You will need two standard XLR patch cables to connect the DCX to your pro amp to feed the subs.

You need a standard serial cable to connect the DCX to your computer. If your computer lacks a serial input (a laptop for example), then get a serial to usb convertor.

IN the worst case scenario, you would also need a Samson S-Convert. But you should not need this.

-Chris
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
SABRENT SBT-USC6M USB to Serial (9-pin) DB-9 RS-232 Adapter Cable - DCX to PC via USB port
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156009&cm_re=serial_cable-_-12-156-009-_-Product

Harrison Labs Attenuators (12dB) pair - (only place I could find in stock) - DCX to AudioEngine A5's
http://www.headphone.com/accessories/miscellaneous/harrison-labs-attenuators-12db.php

All from Parts-Express
Dayton 3.5RCA-12 3.5mm Stereo Male To RCA Cable 9 ft. - PC to DCX $15
Dayton XMRF XLR Male to RCA Female - PC to DCX $12
3.5mm Stereo Male to 2 RCA Female Y Adapter Cable 8" - adapter for DCX to bookshelf input (takes only stereo) $3
Peavey 6 ft. TRS to Male XLR Patch Cable - DCX to AMP $34
Dayton XFRF XLR Female to RCA Female - DCX to A5 speaker $12
Dayton RCA-12 RCA Audio Cable 12 ft. - DCX to A5 speaker $18

I'm bothered by the price of the cables and connectors. Does anyone have a good website or advice on (is cheaper cables ok?), (are there any sweet places to get dirt cheap rca's and all that jazz?) I found www.monoprice.com seems pretty cheap. I don't mind spending money ... but if I can do it cheaper I will go that route.


I feel like I could be missing something. Just ordered the DCX2496 from ebay b-stock from manufacturer for $250 shipped.
 
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M

monsterman

Audioholic
When you plug in the cable to the center channel/subwoofer output on the mainboard and into the amp do you get this screen:

Yea i got that screen but it still gave me signal that didn't hit any lows.
I played around with that for a few minutes and still it was clear something more significant was wrong. The subwoofer barely moved at all, for me, that was a major problem.
 
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jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Yea i got that screen but it still gave me signal that didn't hit any lows.
I played around with that for a few minutes and still it was clear something more significant was wrong. The subwoofer barely moved at all, for me, that was a major problem.
What is your current cable going from the jack to the sub amp? PM me your Ph# if you are in the the U.S.
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
What is your current cable going from the jack to the sub amp? PM me your Ph# if you are in the the U.S.
I got a Dayton 3.5SC-12 3.5mm Stereo Male To Male Cable 12 ft. with a Dayton ADQS-3.5S 1/4" Stereo M To 3.5mm Stereo F Adapter
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
I see you got the sub OK, sorry to see your having troubles with your setup.:( I'm sure you will get it all worked out with the help your getting. Good luck.....:)
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Yea i got that screen but it still gave me signal that didn't hit any lows.
I played around with that for a few minutes and still it was clear something more significant was wrong. The subwoofer barely moved at all, for me, that was a major problem.
Never mind whether it moved, how did it sound?

That driver is in a small sealed box, that will limit cone movement, as pressure in the box will build up quickly and damp cone movement.

As I explained before, the unit is 12 db down at 20 Hz. The response is falling steadily 12 db over the whole last octave. Not only that the Qtc is below 0.5.

Now that is not bad news, as long as you realize that the vast majority of subs are highly inaccurate reproducers.

Those Qb4 ported subs that are discussed again and again in these forums are by no means accurate reproducers. That type of bass however has come to define reproduced audio. It splashes over everything and in no way do they sound like natural acoustic instruments in the concert hall.

I leaned at a very young age, that most loudspeakers, especially in the bass, were far removed from what I heard in the concert hall.

So with the Qtc of your sub, the bass is not going to obviously introduce itself, even when you provide Eq to 25 Hz.

So what you need to do is play music with deep bass content and switch the sub in and out, and see if you find the lower octave gently augmented, and when there is really deep bass the sub make itself known. Most of the time that sub is going to sound pretty much as if it is silent until called on.

Listeners who are not used to low Qtc speakers at first find the bass very light weight but articulate. Then they are stunned when there is deep bass. (Now to produce any good power in the last octave you will need Eq.) This happens particularly when I demonstrate the battle scenes from Master and Commander. They expect it to be lame. I let them settle in and experience the natural voice sound. Then when the cannons open up, I can guarantee they are gripping the arm rests for dear life, and you feel the explosions hit you full force frontally, yes you do feel it as a physical force. There is not boom. For that movie, they took the trouble to record real British eighteenth century cannon. I have heard eighteen century cannon fired, and it sounds nothing like most systems reproduce it.

In your small room you should have enough power to do the same with that sub, if your other speakers are up to it, as you have to remember cannon shots have a lot of acoustic spectra out of the sub 60 Hz range.

You might take a while to get used to the sound, but I think it likely you will come to like it.
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
it played zero low notes. does my order form for the cables look acceptable? I would hate to miss something and have to wait to connect everything.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
it played zero low notes. does my order form for the cables look acceptable? I would hate to miss something and have to wait to connect everything.
Do you have a test disc or source of test tones? Do you have am amplified meter? Play a CD of tones direct into your sub amp, and see what you get.

Then do the same thing via your computer. If possible measure the voltages from your LFE port.

The first thing is to know your sub is working correctly. I don't see why the LFE output from your sound card should be acting as a high pass filter. It seems test gear and measurements are in order.

I still have a slight feeling you are expecting something other than what you are destined to get out of this sub.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
Do you have a test disc or source of test tones? Do you have am amplified meter? Play a CD of tones direct into your sub amp, and see what you get.

Then do the same thing via your computer. If possible measure the voltages from your LFE port.

The first thing is to know your sub is working correctly. I don't see why the LFE output from your sound card should be acting as a high pass filter. It seems test gear and measurements are in order.

I still have a slight feeling you are expecting something other than what you are destined to get out of this sub.
I think he is getting the center channel output from the sound card. He is picking up a 1/8 to stereo RCA then adapted to 1/4" to find out which channel the sub output is on.

Shame on Gigabyte for not being clear in their user guide.
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
Do you have a test disc or source of test tones? Do you have am amplified meter? Play a CD of tones direct into your sub amp, and see what you get.

Then do the same thing via your computer. If possible measure the voltages from your LFE port.

The first thing is to know your sub is working correctly. I don't see why the LFE output from your sound card should be acting as a high pass filter. It seems test gear and measurements are in order.

I still have a slight feeling you are expecting something other than what you are destined to get out of this sub.
I don't have an amplified meter. I have tried test tones via rap songs and no bass comes out at all...it plays like a 15" speaker. I assume the output voltage of the pc is under 1v. I will have some answers soon about if the subwoofer works.
I have a slight feeling that this sub will crack my windows and make my balls ripple. The way it stands now... I'm make more bass pounding my lady than this TC2000. Soon it will change.
 
M

monsterman

Audioholic
"Thank you for calling into the support line and for your recent order. I asked around and found that the RCA outputs are standard line level output, which is around 1.7V. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions." - This was Audioengine's response to the voltage of the RCA output on the back of the A5's

I got an RCA->1/4" and plugged the A5's into the Amp and ran some test tones. The Subwoofer barely responded. But it did respond. Gain was turned up to like 75%. Those little A5 were rocking out @ 20hz, not making much noise but moving like bat wings. I will say that the signal seemed stronger than when directly connected to the PC but still nothing close to what 1kw should produce.
I forgot to take a picture of the settings on the back of my EP2500.
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
This is how the switches should be. R=right and L=left

1-R
2-R
3-R
4-L
5-L
6-L
7-L
8-R
9-R
10-R

for stereo mode.....
 
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