TC 2000 sealed with 2400 watts?

[WmAx]

OP: the TC2000 is an excellent driver. Better than most at regardless of cost. Even at 1800 watts, the driver is not nearly reaching it's thermal limits - and virtually no compression exists even at 1800 watts input.

Here is a sealed test of the TC2000 driven with 1800 watts in a 90 liter volume - and this test clearly shows the output and distortion is amp limited in this example. Unfortunately, a larger amp was not available for follow ups:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-tests-archived/5759-diy-tc-sounds-tc-2000-15-sealed-90l.html

This driver will work fine in a sealed system EQed to 20Hz flat response, but I would prefer to only EQ it flat to 25Hz, and have some roll off at 20Hz, to allow for more potential dynamic output overall.

For music, there is nothing to be gained by using a ported cabinet. For HT use, there is some benefit, due to the high output ultra low frequency sound effects present in movie soundtracks.

-Chris

 

[monsterman]

Update:
I have decided, with the significant help provided by everyone on the forums, to hold off on getting an EQ until it presents itself useful. I have been assured that, considering the circumstances, I will have plenty of output for my music. I have measured the room and realize that it will probably be well over the top, which is what I am looking for. I am very grateful for the help.
-C.J.

 

[monsterman]

OP: the TC2000 is an excellent driver. Better than most at regardless of cost. Even at 1800 watts, the driver is not nearly reaching it's thermal limits - and virtually no compression exists even at 1800 watts input.

Here is a sealed test of the TC2000 driven with 1800 watts in a 90 liter volume - and this test clearly shows the output and distortion is amp limited in this example. Unfortunately, a larger amp was not available for follow ups:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-tests-archived/5759-diy-tc-sounds-tc-2000-15-sealed-90l.html

This driver will work fine in a sealed system EQed to 20Hz flat response, but I would prefer to only EQ it flat to 25Hz, and have some roll off at 20Hz, to allow for more potential dynamic output overall.

For music, there is nothing to be gained by using a ported cabinet. For HT use, there is some benefit, due to the high output ultra low frequency sound effects present in movie soundtracks.

-Chris

That's good information. I have been looking around and have not come across much information on how many watts this driver can take. I have heard anywhere from 1800-2000 easily.

 

[Warpdrv]

the EP2500 is a very good match for the TC2000, I would be careful though that if your planning on playing heavy LOW bass content that you think about having a Highpass filter in place so your driver is protected at high SPL's...

My son and I were playing some stuff like "Bass I Love You" which has alot of output down low and pushed my 15" Revo (basically same driver) too hard... over excursioned and bottomed the driver, ended up denting the cone a touch, but its fine and still plays perfectly...

TC-2000 Driver

• Double stacked 1" tall ferrite magnets
• 200oz motor structure
• 3" diameter, 4-layer aluminum wire voice coil
• xmax of 28mm (one way linear travel)
• Dual (10"/8.5") poly-cotton spiders with intergraded woven leads (12,15/10)
• Extra spacing in-between spiders for lateral stability
• Extra clearance under the suspension for dynamic high excursions
• Detachable cast aluminum basket with high gloss power coating
• Either single or dual 3Ω aluminum voice coil with four layers of wire
• 700 watts sustained (2500 watts dynamic)
• High quality thermal flexible epoxies to ensure longevity
• Rigid lightweight brushed aluminum cone
• Vented flared pole piece
• Copper shorting ring
• Rubber half roll surround allows for linear travel
• Dressed in a rubber magnet boot and gasket
• Hand built in our San Diego, CA factory



Here is the Wayback Machine archived web page of TC-Sounds
http://web.archive.org/web/20061112053925/www.tcsounds.com/tc2000.htm

It takes a little while to load, be patient.

 

[jinjuku]

the EP2500 is a very good match for the TC2000, I would be careful though that if your planning on playing heavy LOW bass content that you think about having a Highpass filter in place so your driver is protected at high SPL's...

My son and I were playing some stuff like "Bass I Love You" which has alot of output down low and pushed my 15" Revo (basically same driver) too hard... over excursioned and bottomed the driver, ended up denting the cone a touch, but its fine and still plays perfectly...

TC-2000 Driver


• Powerful 200 ounce ferrite motor
• 700W sustained, up to 2500W dynamic
• Polished aluminum cone
• Detachable cast aluminum powder-coated basket
• 3" aluminum voice coil
• 28mm xmax (one way)
• Optimized for high quality output and value
• Available in 10", 12" or 15" models

Here is the Wayback Machine archived web page of TC-Sounds
http://web.archive.org/web/20061112053925/www.tcsounds.com/tc2000.htm

It takes a little while to load, be patient.

His sub is sealed so there is no need for a rumble filter.

 

[Warpdrv]

His sub is sealed so there is no need for a rumble filter.

Yeah whatever.... so was mine...

Trust me, when your playing sub teen material and have the amp dialed up pretty high, it will push things to the limits, regardless of it being sealed, if you have enough power to overcome the backpressure it will damage the driver... And the The box that his driver is in is even larger making it even easier to do so...

 

[jinjuku]

Yeah whatever.... so was mine...

Trust me, when your playing sub teen material and have the amp dialed up pretty high, it will push things to the limits, regardless of it being sealed, if you have enough power to overcome the backpressure it will damage the driver... And the The box that his driver is in is even larger making it even easier to do so...

Damn , did you have EQ applied?

 

[monsterman]

the EP2500 is a very good match for the TC2000, I would be careful though that if your planning on playing heavy LOW bass content that you think about having a Highpass filter in place so your driver is protected at high SPL's...

My son and I were playing some stuff like "Bass I Love You" which has alot of output down low and pushed my 15" Revo (basically same driver) too hard... over excursioned and bottomed the driver, ended up denting the cone a touch, but its fine and still plays perfectly...

Well I think I will want it to crank. I won't push it too hard but it's going to move a butt ton. I will probably have an EQ/filter applied to the subwoofer channel before the signal leaves my computer.
That REVO 15.... looks sweet. Very nice looking driver.

 

[Warpdrv]

Damn , did you have EQ applied?

No EQ applied to the system, just had the gain a touch high, good thing I had my hand on the volume, to minimize the damage...

Well I think I will want it to crank. I won't push it too hard but it's going to move a butt ton. I will probably have an EQ/filter applied to the subwoofer channel before the signal leaves my computer.
That REVO 15.... looks sweet. Very nice looking driver.

On a secondary note, I don't think the Revo has the same power handling that the really beefy TC-2000 did... I literally unplugged the TC2K box and plugged the Revo in on the same material, and the damage happened. So keep that in mind before just letting loose with the massive GAIN.... take it slow - The EP2500 was measured and probably the most output you will get out of it at is about 1700-1800w at 4ohms...

Very nice basket - its the LMS basket on the Revo's...

Ugh... reminds me - Where is my 09 18" LMS, they were delayed, gotta wait another month... My other 2 are getting lonely...

 

[monsterman]

On a secondary note, I don't think the Revo has the same power handling that the really beefy TC-2000 did... I literally unplugged the TC2K box and plugged the Revo in on the same material, and the damage happened. So keep that in mind before just letting loose with the massive GAIN.... take it slow - The EP2500 was measured and probably the most output you will get out of it at is about 1700-1800w at 4ohms...

I have actually read that the output of the EP 2500 is anywhere from 1100-1400w @ 4 ohm. If it actually puts out 1700-1800 that would be sweet.

My AudioEngine A5's came today .... can't wait to get home and hook em up.

I will need to write a review of the setup considering it only cost me $773 including wires, shipping, and tax. Probably will blow my mind.

 

[monsterman]

I posted this on my EQ thread but figured it could go here as well.

So I asked my Motherboard company what the output voltage is on the audio out ports of the motherboard... they replied "Only 0.16amp per port"

What does that mean?
I'm guessing that not enough for my EP2500 necessary 1.4V.

That, I'm guessing leaves me with a few options
1: Get an upgraded sound card with up to 2.0V out... Creative makes a few $150+
2: Use the subwoofer output on my Audioengine A5's with an unknown output voltage
3: Get some sort of voltage amplifier???? What is this?

If I do end up getting an EQ is there a voltage requirement for the input?

 

[TLS Guy]

I posted this on my EQ thread but figured it could go here as well.

So I asked my Motherboard company what the output voltage is on the audio out ports of the motherboard... they replied "Only 0.16amp per port"

What does that mean?
I'm guessing that not enough for my EP2500 necessary 1.4V.

That, I'm guessing leaves me with a few options
1: Get an upgraded sound card with up to 2.0V out... Creative makes a few $150+
2: Use the subwoofer output on my Audioengine A5's with an unknown output voltage
3: Get some sort of voltage amplifier???? What is this?

If I do end up getting an EQ is there a voltage requirement for the input?

See my answer in your other post. Please stop double posting, that is very irritating.

 

[monsterman]

So I got my stuff today and set the amp up the way everyone else told me to do it. Hooked up the wires and the orange signal lights came on but there is no power coming to the subwoofer. What I mean is the subwoofer is not moving at all. I don't really know how to test the subwoofer or the amp. I don't want to break anything by using my Noob thinking.

 

[TLS Guy]

So I got my stuff today and set the amp up the way everyone else told me to do it. Hooked up the wires and the orange signal lights came on but there is no power coming to the subwoofer. What I mean is the subwoofer is not moving at all. I don't really know how to test the subwoofer or the amp. I don't want to break anything by using my Noob thinking.

The first thing to do is to disconnect the sub from the amp. Connect a 1.5 volt battery across the sub connections and make and break the connection. The cone of the sub driver should move in and out.

If it does not, see if a connection has come off in transit. If there is a connection off reconnect it and repeat the test.

If the sub cone moves, then check the amp. Connect a CD player to the amp inputs and see if you can get sound form the sub.

If you can then there is no input to the amp from your sound card, or whatever device you are using to drive the amp and then the sub.

Do these tests and report back.

This is trouble shooting 101.

 

[monsterman]

I put the battery one and then double checked the Terminal posts. And then retried it. The cone has yet to move.
Funny thing is ... I contemplated plugging that sucker into the wall to see if it worked. Good thing I asked...had no idea a 1.5v battery could move a cone.

Wait... did I need to take the sub apart to see the connection inside is still intact?

 

[jinjuku]

If you have a multimeter throw it over to the ohm (resistance) setting and apply the probes to the +/- terminals. You should see the display deflect from infinity to what ever the resistance of the speaker is. If you don't see the display change then you have an open circuit (wire not connected).

If the sub has terminal cup with screws you could remove the cup and use a flashlight to look in to make sure that the internal wiring is connected.

 

[monsterman]

Okay... so I took out the terminal posts and discovered the positive was off and i reconnected it and it passed the battery test. Then I connected the amp and tried to play some music and there is almost no lows coming through and the subwoofer is barely moving. I think the output isn't giving a correct signal to the amp. I change some settings on my audio manager and my 15" subwoofer starts playing like my bookshelf speaker hitting highs and vocals As a matter of fact... I can turn off my bookshelves and still hear the song ... just without any lows.
perhaps if i connect it to the subwoofer out RCA's on the back of my Audioengine A5's I could possibly work. I will have the buy an adapter from Radio Shack tomorrow to test that theory out.

 

[TLS Guy]

Okay... so I took out the terminal posts and discovered the positive was off and i reconnected it and it passed the battery test. Then I connected the amp and tried to play some music and there is almost no lows coming through and the subwoofer is barely moving. I think the output isn't giving a correct signal to the amp. I change some settings on my audio manager and my 15" subwoofer starts playing like my bookshelf speaker hitting highs and vocals As a matter of fact... I can turn off my bookshelves and still hear the song ... just without any lows.
perhaps if i connect it to the subwoofer out RCA's on the back of my Audioengine A5's I could possibly work. I will have the buy an adapter from Radio Shack tomorrow to test that theory out.

You have to connect it to a sub out, or LFE. There has to be a crossover in circuit someplace if you are going to drive a sub.

 

[monsterman]

I will give that a try tomorrow and report back. Will that explain the very low output in general? Probably because my motherboard is feeding the amp a super weak signal.

 

[TLS Guy]

I will give that a try tomorrow and report back. Will that explain the very low output in general? Probably because my motherboard is feeding the amp a super weak signal.

You need to ask the mother board company how many volts the port puts out. My guess is that it is line level so you should be OK. There must be settings on the control panel so, you can set volume and crossover frequency.

I suspect however you will need a dedicated sound card, for what you want to do.