Receiver Questions

[Pogre]

Nice. Glad it worked out for you.

Hey man, thank you for finding it. It wasn't on my radar because 1.) I didn't think it had the app support, and 2.) I figured it was a new-ish model still and would be too far off budget. This worked out great for me.

Tell you what's real nice is, the menus are very familiar to me because I've always had a Denon. They're nicer looking and more responsive than I'm used to, too which is nice. I'm gonna go look for the app now. It just finished an update.

 

[KEW]

Thanks Kew. That's interesting about the 6001/7001. Makes me curious... Another thing I'm curious about is Gene's review of my speakers. He says their 4 ohm speakers despite their 8 ohm rating? What does that mean in terms of output? Is it just a more difficult load or do the speakers see more power?

4 ohm speakers draw more current. In the classic plumbing-electronics analogy, voltage is water pressure, and current is flow rate. You can imagine how it is easier to build up pressure against partially closed valve vs a wide open valve and 4 ohms equates to a more open valve as compared to 8 ohms. So with the increased demand on current, the power supply can be challenged to keep up with the demand (you can think of the power supply as a charging pump trying to maintain pressure).
The good news is that since your AVR is designed for several channels and you are only using it for 2/3, you should be good.
However, once you get to 5/7 channels, it wouldn't hurt to off-load the L&R or L,C,&R to a power amp just to be sure you are never getting close to the limits.
Others can probably give you a more accurate assessment, but that is my quick & dirty on it.

System looks truly great - glad you checked in here early on!
Most guys show up here after they bought a "Best Buy" system (which they are proud of and looking for us to nod approval) and often end up pissed-off... or replacing gear to get a nice system, you went straight for the good stuff!
A good system can be had from Best Buy (I like the Martin Logan Motion 20 speakers) but it'd cost more than it should!

 

[Verdinut]

Thanks Kew. That's interesting about the 6001/7001. Makes me curious... Another thing I'm curious about is Gene's review of my speakers. He says their 4 ohm speakers despite their 8 ohm rating? What does that mean in terms of output? Is it just a more difficult load or do the speakers see more power?

First, the SR6011 is designed to handle 4 ohm loads. With a 4 ohm load, your receiver will be able to output at least 170 watts/channel with 2 channels driven.
For an input of 2.83 volts to a speaker, the 4 ohm speaker will output 3dB more than a similar model speaker with an 8 ohm impedance because of the increase in current demand from the amplifier.
To conclude, your AVR won't have any problem driving your speakers.

 

[Verdinut]

Hey man, thank you for finding it. It wasn't on my radar because 1.) I didn't think it had the app support, and 2.) I figured it was a new-ish model still and would be too far off budget. This worked out great for me.

Tell you what's real nice is, the menus are very familiar to me because I've always had a Denon. They're nicer looking and more responsive than I'm used to, too which is nice. I'm gonna go look for the app now. It just finished an update.

Pogre,

I had forgotten to mention that with all 7 channels driven, you should be able to get at least 100 watts/ch. with a 4ohm load.

Enjoy your new AVR. I'm sure you will let us know about your listening impressions in due course.
Cheers,

André

 

[Pogre]

Pogre,

I had forgotten to mention that with all 7 channels driven, you should be able to get at least 100 watts/ch. with a 4ohm load.

Enjoy your new AVR. I'm sure you will let us know about your listening impressions in due course.
Cheers,

André

I started a new thread with screenies from the app after I took measurements. Clicky

 

[PENG]

First, the SR6011 is designed to handle 4 ohm loads. With a 4 ohm load, your receiver will be able to output at least 170 watts/channel with 2 channels driven.
For an input of 2.83 volts to a speaker, the 4 ohm speaker will output 3dB more than a similar model speaker with an 8 ohm impedance because of the increase in current demand from the amplifier.
To conclude, your AVR won't have any problem driving your speakers.

My impression is that since the AVR-4311 and the equivalent SR7007?, D&M started rating their AVRs for 4 ohms but by limiting the output voltage. If true, and I believe it is true, then I agree they are desinged to handle 4 ohm load, but it won't get you more output if you follow their instruction to flip a little selector switch or do it in the setting screen. That's why AH recommends leaving it in the 8 ohm setting, that way you do get much higher output into 4 ohms, just be aware that the amp is not designed to drive 4 ohm loads at the higher output or even just the rated output level continuously. That should not be a problem for music and movies, except for those who listen to the so called 5 or 7ch stereo.

 

[Pogre]

My impression is that since the AVR-4311 and the equivalent SR7007?, D&M started rating their AVRs for 4 ohms but by limiting the output voltage. If true, and I believe it is true, then I agree they are desinged to handle 4 ohm load, but it won't get you more output if you follow their instruction to flip a little selector switch or do it in the setting screen. That's why AH recommends leaving it in the 8 ohm setting, that way you do get much higher output into 4 ohms, just be aware that the amp is not designed to drive 4 ohm loads at the higher output or even just the rated output level continuously. That should not be a problem for music and movies, except for those who listen to the so called 5 or 7ch stereo.

I understand. I remember reading the article about the 4 ohm/8 ohm switch. I've googled, looked closely at the back and picked through the manual and can find no mention of a 4 ohm or 8 ohm switch or setting in the menus (which I also went through thoroughly). Am I missing something or does it not have the switch? Here are some images of the remote, front and back panels.

At this point I assume there is no switch.

 

[Verdinut]

I understand. I remember reading the article about the 4 ohm/8 ohm switch. I've googled, looked closely at the back and picked through the manual and can find no mention of a 4 ohm or 8 ohm switch or setting in the menus (which I also went through thoroughly). Am I missing something or does it not have the switch? Here are some images of the remote, front and back panels.

View attachment 21126
View attachment 21128
View attachment 21129

At this point I assume there is no switch.

Hi Pogre,

There is no switch.
You will find the info about speaker impedance settings which Marantz recommend on Page 35 of the Owner's Manual.
I entirely agree with Gene and PENG. Your AVR is most likely at present configured for 8 or 16 ohm speakers. Just leave it as is in order not to be exposed to a reduction of available amplifier power.

If set for 4 ohm speakers, there is more risk of amplifier clipping with possibility of damaging the tweeters.

 

[PENG]

I understand. I remember reading the article about the 4 ohm/8 ohm switch. I've googled, looked closely at the back and picked through the manual and can find no mention of a 4 ohm or 8 ohm switch or setting in the menus (which I also went through thoroughly). Am I missing something or does it not have the switch? Here are some images of the remote, front and back panels.

View attachment 21126
View attachment 21128
View attachment 21129

At this point I assume there is no switch.

Thanks to Verdinut, page 35 does explain how to do it in setting. I agree with him that the default setting should be 8 ohm but I think it is a good idea you follow the instruction to check and make sure it is.

 

[Pogre]

Hi Pogre,

There is no switch.
You will find the info about speaker impedance settings which Marantz recommend on Page 35 of the Owner's Manual.
I entirely agree with Gene and PENG. Your AVR is most likely at present configured for 8 or 16 ohm speakers. Just leave it as is in order not to be exposed to a reduction of available amplifier power.

Thank you! I thought that was the case; I just wanted to make sure it was set at 8 ohms. I'm gonna go to page 35 and check it out now. It didn't come with the manual so I downloaded it. It's over 300 pages...

 

[Pogre]

Hi Pogre,

There is no switch.
You will find the info about speaker impedance settings which Marantz recommend on Page 35 of the Owner's Manual.
I entirely agree with Gene and PENG. Your AVR is most likely at present configured for 8 or 16 ohm speakers. Just leave it as is in order not to be exposed to a reduction of available amplifier power.

If set for 4 ohm speakers, there is more risk of amplifier clipping with possibility of damaging the tweeters.

Worked! I'd have had a hell of a time finding that. Thanks again.

Thanks to Verdinut, page 35 does explain how to do it in setting. I agree with him that the default setting should be 8 ohm but I think it is a good idea you follow the instruction to check and make sure it is.

Yes. Default setting was 8 ohm. I left it.

 

[DigitalDawn]

Marantz sure doesn't make it easy to find. I had to dig through the pdf manual to find the 8 ohm/4 ohm setting info too. They should make it a physical switch.

 

[lovinthehd]

Marantz sure doesn't make it easy to find. I had to dig through the pdf manual to find the 8 ohm/4 ohm setting info too. They should make it a physical switch.

Might be a good thing if it's hidden and the default is the 8ohm setting, that way people don't feel the need to change it....good for a thread a month on that subject it seems.

 

[Pogre]

I'm having a blast going through the menus and tweaking stuff. I did make a pretty dumb mistake already. When I first set the trim on the subs using the subwoofer level adjust under "audio" (not level adjust from the test tones) in the menus. I turned it up to +3 (default is 0) thinking I was adding 3db... Um, nope. I ran Audyssey again and set it properly this time. Audyssey went with -10 and I bumped it to -7 this time instead of +3. There goes all that "extra" bass I was hearing! Derp.

Now that I'm re-accustomed to proper sub levels it still sounds better and fuller than before. Another thing I'm noticing are the highs. They're more there for sure also. I see that XT32 set the trim higher for frequencies above 8000 hz or so than the X1200W did. Like, by a lot. The 1200 trimmed to negative where the 6011 bumped to the plus side. I'm hearing cymbals a lot better now along with other things I hadn't noticed before. Big improvement there as well. I'm very happy about that.

There's one thing for sure that I don't like. The 6011 is getting hotter than the 1200 did. My normal listening range is about -20 to -30db. Right now I'm home alone so I'm cruising right along at -20. Sounds awesome, but when I place my hand on top it's really warm. Almost too warm to keep my hand on it. I'm thinking a fan is going to be a necessity.

 

[Verdinut]

I'm having a blast going through the menus and tweaking stuff. I did make a pretty dumb mistake already. When I first set the trim on the subs using the subwoofer level adjust under "audio" (not level adjust from the test tones) in the menus. I turned it up to +3 (default is 0) thinking I was adding 3db... Um, nope. I ran Audyssey again and set it properly this time. Audyssey went with -10 and I bumped it to -7 this time instead of +3. There goes all that "extra" bass I was hearing! Derp.

Now that I'm re-accustomed to proper sub levels it still sounds better and fuller than before. Another thing I'm noticing are the highs. They're more there for sure also. I see that XT32 set the trim higher for frequencies above 8000 hz or so than the X1200W did. Like, by a lot. The 1200 trimmed to negative where the 6011 bumped to the plus side. I'm hearing cymbals a lot better now along with other things I hadn't noticed before. Big improvement there as well. I'm very happy about that.

There's one thing for sure that I don't like. The 6011 is getting hotter than the 1200 did. My normal listening range is about -20 to -30db. Right now I'm home alone so I'm cruising right along at -20. Sounds awesome, but when I place my hand on top it's really warm. Almost too warm to keep my hand on it. I'm thinking a fan is going to be a necessity.

IMO, the Marantz AVRs benefit from fan cooling if you want them to last longer.

My suggestion would be to get at least 2 fans which you could install on top of the receiver if it's not enclosed in a cabinet. Check on Amazon, AC Infinity make excellent products. They are rather quiet and are very affordable.
I use a pair on top of my SR5010. I also convinced Bucknekked to purchase some for his AVR.

 

[panteragstk]

IMO, the Marantz AVRs benefit from fan cooling if you want them to last longer.

My suggestion would be to get at least 2 fans which you could install on top of the receiver if it's not enclosed in a cabinet. Check on Amazon, AC Infinity make excellent products. They are rather quiet and are very affordable.
I use a pair on top of my SR5010. I also convinced Bucknekked to purchase some for his AVR.

AC Infinity stuff is great. I've got two of the dual 5" fan units cooling my equipment closet. Those are plugged into their thermostat. Works well.

 

[lovinthehd]

I'm having a blast going through the menus and tweaking stuff. I did make a pretty dumb mistake already. When I first set the trim on the subs using the subwoofer level adjust under "audio" (not level adjust from the test tones) in the menus. I turned it up to +3 (default is 0) thinking I was adding 3db... Um, nope. I ran Audyssey again and set it properly this time. Audyssey went with -10 and I bumped it to -7 this time instead of +3. There goes all that "extra" bass I was hearing! Derp.

Now that I'm re-accustomed to proper sub levels it still sounds better and fuller than before. Another thing I'm noticing are the highs. They're more there for sure also. I see that XT32 set the trim higher for frequencies above 8000 hz or so than the X1200W did. Like, by a lot. The 1200 trimmed to negative where the 6011 bumped to the plus side. I'm hearing cymbals a lot better now along with other things I hadn't noticed before. Big improvement there as well. I'm very happy about that.

There's one thing for sure that I don't like. The 6011 is getting hotter than the 1200 did. My normal listening range is about -20 to -30db. Right now I'm home alone so I'm cruising right along at -20. Sounds awesome, but when I place my hand on top it's really warm. Almost too warm to keep my hand on it. I'm thinking a fan is going to be a necessity.

A fan is just a good extender of life IMO. The AC Infinity fans match the avr aesthetically somewhat....

I still wouldn't look at the resultant graphs assuming much accuracy is involved, need to take real measurements....but trim level is overall level, eq would be frequency specific.

 

[KEW]

It is not a perfect match for profile, but close!

That was the best image I found. I'd recommend saving about $30 and skipping the digital temperature display:
https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Cooling-Receivers-Components/dp/B01LVUWOBX/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496619519&sr=1-6&keywords=ac+infinity+system

If you want to know the temperature, use the $30 to get one of these and you can also make sure you won't burn your tongue eating quiche!

https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Thermometer-P-JING-Temperature-Instant-read/dp/B01MT34KJQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_79_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4VR4Q7HA02HJ4BHWTPQC

 

[Pogre]

A fan is just a good extender of life IMO. The AC Infinity fans match the avr aesthetically somewhat....

I still wouldn't look at the resultant graphs assuming much accuracy is involved, need to take real measurements....but trim level is overall level, eq would be frequency specific.

Understood. I was also talking about the curve copy I did in manual eq. I shouldn't have used "trim". I see my mistake now. I remember where the frequencies were with the 1200. They're quite different with the 6011.

For instance, the 6011 raised 2 kHz +2db, 4khz +3db, 8kHz +5db and 16khz +4db. The X1200W applied negative values to all of those same frequencies. Just seemed odd to me, but I do like it better. Things sound more detailed now. I had to focus to hear cymbals before, now they're just there. Not placebo either. I checked the curve because I heard the difference. Seeing the numbers confirmed it for me.

 

[lovinthehd]

Understood. I was also talking about the curve copy I did in manual eq. I remember where the frequencies were with the 1200. They're quite different with the 6011.

For instance, the 6011 raised 2 kHz +2db, 4khz +3db, 8kHz +5db and 16khz +4db. The X1200W applied negative values to all of those same frequencies. Just seemed odd to me, but I do like it better. Things sound more detailed now. I had to focus to hear cymbals before, now they're just there. Not placebo either. I checked the curve because I heard the difference. Seeing the numbers confirmed it for me.

I wouldn't take the numbers derived from those graphs to be accurate is all....but the times I've tried to use the manual EQ with the copy thing I still was happier with the Audyssey results....