
chris357
Senior Audioholic
is this the case if I'm using cabinet grade plywood?It is best to avoid fasteners in speaker cabinet builds. Yes you will be fine.
is this the case if I'm using cabinet grade plywood?It is best to avoid fasteners in speaker cabinet builds. Yes you will be fine.
Difficult to work with and water clean up ain't happening. When I need epoxy I use PC-7 and that has a 24 hour cure time. It's overkill. JMO but nobody uses it.Why not epoxy?
That is for a person that has infinite patienceWhy not epoxy?
< shrug >That is for a person that has infinite patience![]()
Epoxy would be terrible. In speakers you have to slide boards down the dato channels. Braces, and the internals of TLs and horns need to slide in and Titebond actually makes them slide easier. Once epoxy coated surfaces touch, they ar generally stuck, especially once the hardener starts to work. Titebond does not really start to set until you put it under pressure. Then it sets good and hard fast. Don't even think about building a speaker from anything other than those water based types of glue< shrug >
I don't know about infinite patience, but I usualy have some on hand for other projects.
I prefer titebond original for all wood gluing for the same reasons you shared. The stuff is liquid gold for wood working. Just make sure you get some wet paper towels ready for cleanup. I've used this stuff for fixing a bed, a dollhouse, and making speakers. It's something a man should have in his house in my opinion. Make sure you clean up the applicator really good after use. If you get it on your hand you can just rinse it off in the sink. I still prefer using disposable gloves when handling it, but it's safe to get your hands dirty around. You can clean it off your clamps too.Epoxy would be terrible. In speakers you have to slide boards down the dato channels. Braces, and the internals of TLs and horns need to slide in and Titebond actually makes them slide easier. Once epoxy coated surfaces touch, they ar generally stuck, especially once the hardener starts to work. Titebond does not really start to set until you put it under pressure. Then it sets good and hard fast. Don't even think about building a speaker from anything other than those water based types of glue
I could not think of a worse glue to use to build a speaker than epoxy and contact cements.
I mix mine reeeeeally hot, so it sets in a couple of minutes.That is for a person that has infinite patience![]()
You got the Forrest blade? How is it?Circular Saw(get a forrest II blade)
Plunge router w/spiral upcut bit(get a whiteside bit)
I've never had an issue with dirty edges on the top of the cut. Only on the bottom which will be hidden. But the dc attachment made life much easier.You got the Forrest blade? How is it?
Up-cut or down-cut? If the cut goes into the face of the material (down-cut), it's a cleaner edge, so this would be best when the edges will be exposed. For sheet goods like particle board and MDF, it's usually more important to clear out as much dust in a short time as possible, so using a spiral up-cut is best when cosmetics aren't as much of a factor.
The blade is being shipped. I ended up getting the woodworker 1 for my circular saw. I can't wait to try it out.You got the Forrest blade? How is it?
Up-cut or down-cut? If the cut goes into the face of the material (down-cut), it's a cleaner edge, so this would be best when the edges will be exposed. For sheet goods like particle board and MDF, it's usually more important to clear out as much dust in a short time as possible, so using a spiral up-cut is best when cosmetics aren't as much of a factor.
Rockler is having another big sale. Buy one thing and get 50% off an equal or lower priced item.The blade is being shipped. I ended up getting the woodworker 1 for my circular saw. I can't wait to try it out.
They have stabilizers, but i've not tried them. I may give them a whirl if I have a problemRockler is having another big sale. Buy one thing and get 50% off an equal or lower priced item.
Hopefully, your saw has a stable arbor assembly- I have seen some that move in/out a good amount and that can make clean cuts difficult but the Forrest blade should make a major difference. I have cut lumber that had 16d nails in it (I never saw any evidence of them) and never phased it. Even after a lot of cutting over a few years, the ends of 2x4s come out shiny and smooth.
On a smaller diameter blade, I wouldn't worry about stabilizers too much. If it was a thin kerf blade and you were cutting solid hardwood, yes. As long as you take your time and let the blade cut and clear out the gullets, you should be OK.They have stabilizers, but i've not tried them. I may give them a whirl if I have a problem
Just the cheap ones from any hardware or big box store. I had a set of the adjustable ones but they were really weak.what kind of corner clamps do you use?
Some "kid with a new toy" you are!I got the blade plan to use it next week when I get the chance.