MDF vs. Ply

[chris357]

It is best to avoid fasteners in speaker cabinet builds. Yes you will be fine.

is this the case if I'm using cabinet grade plywood?

 

[WmAx]

If one uses proper glue, such as Titebond Original(or other Aliphatic Resin glues), then the bonding will superior. Many glues however, are not good choices, such as the popular Gorilla glue or many of the more recent Tightbond glues (II, III, etc.). Titebond Original is a type(Aliphatic Resin) of glue that has been found in objective analysis in a lab, using all known glue types on wood joints vs. break points vs. quantified pressure, to be the strongest type for wood to wood bonding.

-Chris

 

[Chopper Greg]

Why not epoxy?

 

[Alex2507]

Why not epoxy?

Difficult to work with and water clean up ain't happening. When I need epoxy I use PC-7 and that has a 24 hour cure time. It's overkill. JMO but nobody uses it.

 

[lsiberian]

Glue information

In torsion machine testing on a simple joint with no mechanical strength Titebond 2 had around 2,000 lbs of strength the article is available in Fine Woodworking Magazine. Gorilla Glue was the weakest in that test and the only glue that failed before the wood in that same test. Still it was extremely strong.

I found a source below Comparing titebond's in wood-to-wood joints.
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/titebond.html is a comparison done between the types of titebond. Testing glues is a pretty difficult process.

I personally use Titebond Original because it's easy to cleanup. Polyurethane is easier to sand though.

 

[lsiberian]

Why not epoxy?

That is for a person that has infinite patience

 

[Chopper Greg]

That is for a person that has infinite patience

< shrug >

I don't know about infinite patience , but I usualy have some on hand for other projects.

 

[TLS Guy]

< shrug >

I don't know about infinite patience , but I usualy have some on hand for other projects.

Epoxy would be terrible. In speakers you have to slide boards down the dato channels. Braces, and the internals of TLs and horns need to slide in and Titebond actually makes them slide easier. Once epoxy coated surfaces touch, they ar generally stuck, especially once the hardener starts to work. Titebond does not really start to set until you put it under pressure. Then it sets good and hard fast. Don't even think about building a speaker from anything other than those water based types of glue

I could not think of a worse glue to use to build a speaker than epoxy and contact cements.

 

[lsiberian]

Epoxy would be terrible. In speakers you have to slide boards down the dato channels. Braces, and the internals of TLs and horns need to slide in and Titebond actually makes them slide easier. Once epoxy coated surfaces touch, they ar generally stuck, especially once the hardener starts to work. Titebond does not really start to set until you put it under pressure. Then it sets good and hard fast. Don't even think about building a speaker from anything other than those water based types of glue

I could not think of a worse glue to use to build a speaker than epoxy and contact cements.

I prefer titebond original for all wood gluing for the same reasons you shared. The stuff is liquid gold for wood working. Just make sure you get some wet paper towels ready for cleanup. I've used this stuff for fixing a bed, a dollhouse, and making speakers. It's something a man should have in his house in my opinion. Make sure you clean up the applicator really good after use. If you get it on your hand you can just rinse it off in the sink. I still prefer using disposable gloves when handling it, but it's safe to get your hands dirty around. You can clean it off your clamps too.

Clean up is a huge deal for speaker gluing because you will want to use a lot of glue. In this contest Titebond Original is among the best.

Start simple and get experience!

Supplies to start with
Madisound Recession Buster Kit,
Circular Saw(get a forrest II blade)
Framing Square
Jasper Jig(this tool is amazing and is my favorite tool to use.)
Plunge router w/spiral upcut bit(get a whiteside bit)
Good work bench
A drill with a straight drilling jig of some type. I got one for around 20 bucks at home depot. It's not super awesome, but it does the job for drilling a straight hole.

As many clamps as you can find. Corner ones, Quick Clamps, Bar clamps, etc..

Go with 13-ply if you want something easy to move and light. Go with MDF if you want something cheaper.

You can buy sectioned down ply at home depot or lowe's. I get 2' x 4' sections of 13-ply.

There are other tools you'll want along the way but that's a good start.

 

[highfigh]

That is for a person that has infinite patience

I mix mine reeeeeally hot, so it sets in a couple of minutes.

 

[highfigh]

Circular Saw(get a forrest II blade)

Plunge router w/spiral upcut bit(get a whiteside bit)

You got the Forrest blade? How is it?

Up-cut or down-cut? If the cut goes into the face of the material (down-cut), it's a cleaner edge, so this would be best when the edges will be exposed. For sheet goods like particle board and MDF, it's usually more important to clear out as much dust in a short time as possible, so using a spiral up-cut is best when cosmetics aren't as much of a factor.

 

[lsiberian]

You got the Forrest blade? How is it?

Up-cut or down-cut? If the cut goes into the face of the material (down-cut), it's a cleaner edge, so this would be best when the edges will be exposed. For sheet goods like particle board and MDF, it's usually more important to clear out as much dust in a short time as possible, so using a spiral up-cut is best when cosmetics aren't as much of a factor.

I've never had an issue with dirty edges on the top of the cut. Only on the bottom which will be hidden. But the dc attachment made life much easier.

 

[lsiberian]

You got the Forrest blade? How is it?

Up-cut or down-cut? If the cut goes into the face of the material (down-cut), it's a cleaner edge, so this would be best when the edges will be exposed. For sheet goods like particle board and MDF, it's usually more important to clear out as much dust in a short time as possible, so using a spiral up-cut is best when cosmetics aren't as much of a factor.

The blade is being shipped. I ended up getting the woodworker 1 for my circular saw. I can't wait to try it out.

 

[highfigh]

The blade is being shipped. I ended up getting the woodworker 1 for my circular saw. I can't wait to try it out.

Rockler is having another big sale. Buy one thing and get 50% off an equal or lower priced item.

Hopefully, your saw has a stable arbor assembly- I have seen some that move in/out a good amount and that can make clean cuts difficult but the Forrest blade should make a major difference. I have cut lumber that had 16d nails in it (I never saw any evidence of them) and never phased it. Even after a lot of cutting over a few years, the ends of 2x4s come out shiny and smooth.

 

[lsiberian]

Rockler is having another big sale. Buy one thing and get 50% off an equal or lower priced item.

Hopefully, your saw has a stable arbor assembly- I have seen some that move in/out a good amount and that can make clean cuts difficult but the Forrest blade should make a major difference. I have cut lumber that had 16d nails in it (I never saw any evidence of them) and never phased it. Even after a lot of cutting over a few years, the ends of 2x4s come out shiny and smooth.

They have stabilizers, but i've not tried them. I may give them a whirl if I have a problem

 

[highfigh]

They have stabilizers, but i've not tried them. I may give them a whirl if I have a problem

On a smaller diameter blade, I wouldn't worry about stabilizers too much. If it was a thin kerf blade and you were cutting solid hardwood, yes. As long as you take your time and let the blade cut and clear out the gullets, you should be OK.

 

[lsiberian]

what kind of corner clamps do you use?

 

[highfigh]

what kind of corner clamps do you use?

Just the cheap ones from any hardware or big box store. I had a set of the adjustable ones but they were really weak.

These are the kind I have, but I've seen them for less:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004250/9015/Corner-Clamp.aspx

Here's one for mitered frames that I hadn't seen before:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip010830ws.html

I don't screw mine down. I lay one piece of material down, fasten the clamps on one edge and slide the piece to be joined into the other side, then correct for alignment. Once the edge is aligned, I remove the piece that will be butted up to the face of the other, add glue & put it back in, tighten the clamp and use either staples, finish nails or screws to fasten it so I can move on to the next corners. Brads don't work as well because they aren't cement coated and will slide out more easily. Screws provide much more clamping pressure which, if you read my reasoning, changes the cabinet's resonance. That's not just my opinion, it's from listening to the before and after. If more corner strength is needed, cleats can be glued and screwed from the inside before the last panel goes on, usually the bottom since it's not seen.

As I posted before, the Woodworking Show is in Dallas October 23-25. If you go to their site, they have a discount coupon for admission- either take $2 off for yourself or spouses (spice?) get in free.

http://cms.thewoodworkingshows.com/cms/

 

[lsiberian]

I got the blade plan to use it next week when I get the chance.

 

[highfigh]

I got the blade plan to use it next week when I get the chance.

Some "kid with a new toy" you are!