In-wall rear surround recommendations

William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
I think you have to sync it fists as well. Been a while...
I’ll try and dig in later.
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
Do you have the in/out turned on? Also, you have to turn off the bypass for....damn brain fart, it’ll come to me.


Have you seen this?
Yes, I watched that video and a few others. I'm pretty confident I'm configuring everything correctly. If you're referring to the default crossovers employed, yes, I have those bypassed.

I also just noticed I can hear a very faint sound through the sub when adjusting the sound level on my laptop (basic windows sounds) even with the receiver off, so apparently these sounds are getting picked up over the USB. Furthermore, the blue LED on the DSP is solid whereas before it was blinking. Regardless, audio was not passing at all before either. Just the one loud thump I got while installing the drivers.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Maybe I missed, but does it still work without the mini?
Sorry man. I haven’t used mine in like a year. Now I’m falling asleep... I’ll try better tomorrow.
Btw, interesting sweep of the Klipsch. Looks much like I would have guessed. Most output between 30 and 65hz. We’ll get you hooked up, and you won’t believe how much better it will be.
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
Maybe I missed, but does it still work without the mini?
Sorry man. I haven’t used mine in like a year. Now I’m falling asleep... I’ll try better tomorrow.
Btw, interesting sweep of the Klipsch. Looks much like I would have guessed. Most output between 30 and 65hz. We’ll get you hooked up, and you won’t believe how much better it will be.
Figured it out. The input was set to USB. Had to switch it to Analog. Working now :)
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Excellent! Glad you got it. I’ll
Check in tomorrow.
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
Oh boy, that does sound kinda familiar...

I do remember having to play with inputs and outputs on my mini til I got it working right. On the screen for the mini under inputs and routing I have output 1 at 0db under input 1. Then output 3 at 0db for input 2. All the rest are off and I'm using outputs 1 and 3 for my subs. I do remember some buggery tho before everything clicked.

*Just saw you figured it out!
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
I didn't even know it was a button. Would have been obvious if there were a down arrow next to the box indicating there were other options. Anyway. I swapped out the Klipsch and put the SB1000 in its place, ran a few more sweeps, and applied some filters. Then ran Audyssey. This is what I ended up with (this is with the front speakers reconnected). Not sure why I'm getting the huge dip near 90Hz. This happens to be where Audyssey set the xover for the front channel. I set the xover for the fronts to 80Hz, then 60Hz, then 40Hz, and the dip followed. Does it make sense to make the DSP filters overlap the crossover point to ensure the best transition between subs and mains, or would Audyssey just raise the xover point accordingly?

No smoothing on this curve, by the way.

BTW, new subs will be here tomorrow :)

PostFilterPostAudyssey.jpg
 
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mossman77

Audioholic
That is not a terrible looking chart at all.
I was surprised too. But what's up with the dip around 80Hz? It only popped up once I turned the mains back on, so evidently there is some cancellation?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
I was surprised too. But what's up with the dip around 80Hz? It only popped up once I turned the mains back on, so evidently there is some cancellation?
First thoughts would be placement and/or room mode creating that null. You should test your mains out on their own too, and see what you are working with.
If its a placement issue with the Sub, moving it even by an inch could possibly fix it.
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
First thoughts would be placement and/or room mode creating that null. You should test your mains out on their own too, and see what you are working with.
If its a placement issue with the Sub, moving it even by an inch could possibly fix it.
Play with sub placement even though the sub's response alone did not show the dip?

I did notice an improvement with the sub response when I moved it a few more inches away from the wall and also when I moved it onto the brick hearth of the fireplace rather than the carpet. I also had a dip around 80Hz or so before applying EQ, but as you can see the dip resurfaced when I connected the mains.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
Play with sub placement even though the sub's response alone did not show the dip?

I did notice an improvement with the sub response when I moved it a few more inches away from the wall and also when I moved it onto the brick hearth of the fireplace rather than the carpet. I also had a dip around 80Hz or so before applying EQ, but as you can see the dip resurfaced when I connected the mains.
Two parts as I suggested. :) Measure mains by themselves. if the dip is there then you know it's them. If its not, then its an interaction between the Mains and Sub. Tracking it can be frustrating.

One of my towers had a 20dB suckout. I was trying to figure out why it had the null and my other did not. I was in conversation with somebody when I got the idea to look at the wavelength for that frequency. As I was coming to the realization that it was a cancellation due to that frequency wavelength bouncing off the back wall, he was hitting me up with a comment about Wilson Audio always having their display speakers slightly off kilter. I changed that Left Main by about 1.5" from the front and slightly changed the toe angle and the suckout disappeared, becoming a standard LF dip. ;)
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
I have to admit I'm getting my curves confused now. I will be more methodical once I connect my new subs. This is the response I am currently getting for the SB1000+Mains crossed over at 90Hz with miniDSP and Audyssey EQ:
SB1000vsSub+Main90Hz.jpg


Audyssey put the xover at 90Hz and I changed it to 80Hz before taking the original curve. Now it is better when crossed over at 90Hz.
 
M

mossman77

Audioholic
Two parts as I suggested. :) Measure mains by themselves. if the dip is there then you know it's them. If its not, then its an interaction between the Mains and Sub. Tracking it can be frustrating.

One of my towers had a 20dB suckout. I was trying to figure out why it had the null and my other did not. I was in conversation with somebody when I got the idea to look at the wavelength for that frequency. As I was coming to the realization that it was a cancellation due to that frequency wavelength bouncing off the back wall, he was hitting me up with a comment about Wilson Audio always having their display speakers slightly off kilter. I changed that Left Main by about 1.5" from the front and slightly changed the toe angle and the suckout disappeared, becoming a standard LF dip. ;)
Dip goes away when playing the mains only, and no dip with sub only. Dip resurfaces with sub+mains. I'm not sure what I did, but I can't replicate the huge dip. Oh well, at least it's gone now! :D

MainsOnlyvsSub+Main.jpg


To be clear, the green curve is the mains only and brown is sub+mains crossed over at 80Hz. Switching to 90Hz helped, and adjusting sub distance didn't do much.
 
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mossman77

Audioholic
After obtaining a satisfactory response with the subs only, does it make sense to then connect the mains and allow the DSP to correct the response above the xover point (100Hz for example) to help correct any issues around the xover point you expect to set (e.g. 80Hz)? Sorry if that's confusing. In other words correct the sub+mains response from 20Hz to 100Hz and program the miniDSP, then set the xover on the AVR to 80Hz.
 
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