In-wall rear surround recommendations

Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
My understanding of quartz, is that IT IS A RESONANT MATERIAL.

Weight is NOT a measure of dampening ability.

As I said above:

That wasn't just me typing for the sake of typing.
Exactly. It's more about how the material resonates with sound frequencies. Inert does not necessarily equate to heavy. Some very heavy materials will still have a ring to them, along with some types of wood.

I would take Ryan's word for it and abandon the scrap quartz. He does his homework. Focus on some of the materials he suggested like maple cutting boards. I've heard those work really well before too.
 
mossman77

mossman77

Full Audioholic
My understanding of quartz, is that IT IS A RESONANT MATERIAL.

Weight is NOT a measure of dampening ability.

As I said above:

That wasn't just me typing for the sake of typing.
I understand. What I meant is the amount of sand required to provide adequate damping would be quite heavy. I wasn't implying the actual weight had anything to do with it. And my comment about the quartz being heavy is that it must be pretty dense, but I now realize density and resonance don't necessarily go hand in hand.

What about isolation feet between sub and plinth vs between plinth and floor?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
You can see by the photos I linked to, that I chose a dual approach.

I used spikes to couple the dampening platform to the floor. I also used isolation feet to decouple the subwoofer, and my main speakers from the platforms they each sit on.

In my experience, the subwoofer with standard feet on the platform (no spikes) resting on the carpet; the isolation feet on the subs directly on the carpet; the combination of isolation feet on a spikeless platform on the carpet: all performed less than ideal... in my experience, in my room. Yes, I repeated myself. :)

Keep in mind, that most people will consider flat subwoofer feet on carpet to be isolation enough... or a pad... I know I even recommended previously that you experiment with folding some towels or a blanket up and using it as a faux-isolation pad (free experiment). ;)

I can't tell you why the combination approach works better in my room. To say I understand the physics behind it would be complete BS. However, I know I am not alone in this.

The feet I put on my sub are the SVS Soundpath Isolation Feet. Compared to other products on the market, they aren't that expensive; at $50 bucks or so for a 4-pack they aren't cheap, either. But they really do work!

How you solve for this is ultimately up to you.

My recommendation would be to spring for some Maple Cutting Boards which you can then finish as you wish. You can buy outriggers if you like, or install some spikes underneath. Whichever you choose, you need to make certain it is securely through the carpet and locked into the floorboard and that the top is level.
Ideally, I would also say you want the platform dimensions to be 2" more in width and depth than what you put on it (1" all around).
If you are sold on the idea of increasing mass to more closely match the Subwoofer then you could laminate two boards together. If you want to go full extreme, do Constrained Layer Damping and laminate the two boards with a layer of neoprene or sorbothane in between. (Mind, for that to work, you cannot otherwise fix the two boards together... no nails or screws... adhesive only. In theory, each board will be able to flex and vibrate independently of the other.) (Also, Sorbothane tends to be stupid-expensive.) Here is a link for a place you can order Neoprene sheets (after the lockdown):

The last note: This will only work on the physical transference of energy between subwoofer and floor. You will not be able to stop the acoustical energy from causing their own vibrations.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
What’s actually under the floor? I think if it were me, and there was access, I might try and get underneath and somehow dampen the floor to the floor joists. That might not be possible but just an outside the box er floor? Idea.
 
mossman77

mossman77

Full Audioholic
What’s actually under the floor? I think if it were me, and there was access, I might try and get underneath and somehow dampen the floor to the floor joists. That might not be possible but just an outside the box er floor? Idea.
Drop tile ceiling in the basement. I could easily get access from below.

Maybe I'll just hang the subs from the ceiling with chain :D
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
What’s actually under the floor? I think if it were me, and there was access, I might try and get underneath and somehow dampen the floor to the floor joists. That might not be possible but just an outside the box er floor? Idea.
Optimistic A.F. :p
 
mossman77

mossman77

Full Audioholic
Anyone have experience with this company/their products?


They are saying to use brass spikes/feet for carpeted applications and that they should penetrate the carpet and padding and contact the subfloor. They also say concrete is the worst surface to have under a speaker. I suppose it depends on if you're talking about a full range speaker or strictly a subwoofer. Anyhow, seems like setting my sub on top of one of these blocks (possibly replacing the subwoofer feet with rigid brass feet screwed into the block and sub) with spiked brass feet underneath the block is the way to go?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Anyone have experience with this company/their products?


They are saying to use brass spikes/feet for carpeted applications and that they should penetrate the carpet and padding and contact the subfloor. They also say concrete is the worst surface to have under a speaker. I suppose it depends on if you're talking about a full range speaker or strictly a subwoofer. Anyhow, seems like setting my sub on top of one of these blocks (possibly replacing the subwoofer feet with rigid brass feet screwed into the block and sub) with spiked brass feet underneath the block is the way to go?
Depending on the concrete, it can be resonant. Mine, for example, is filled with a lot of aggregate which I understand to be breaking up the resonance of the pure concrete. When I knocked on it/tapped it with a hammer, my platforms did not ring. Believe me, I checked.

I've seen their stuff, ButcherBlocks... looks cool, I just wasn't interested in paying the prices they were going to charge for what I needed.
But yes... you want spiked feet on the platform itself. You need them to be adjustable so you can level it and securely COUPLE the platform to the floor. Then you want ISOLATION/DAMPING between the sub and the platform... just as I have explained before. :)
 
mossman77

mossman77

Full Audioholic
Depending on the concrete, it can be resonant. Mine, for example, is filled with a lot of aggregate which I understand to be breaking up the resonance of the pure concrete. When I knocked on it/tapped it with a hammer, my platforms did not ring. Believe me, I checked.

I've seen their stuff, ButcherBlocks... looks cool, I just wasn't interested in paying the prices they were going to charge for what I needed.
But yes... you want spiked feet on the platform itself. You need them to be adjustable so you can level it and securely COUPLE the platform to the floor. Then you want ISOLATION/DAMPING between the sub and the platform... just as I have explained before. :)
Roger that. Alternatively, I could isolate from the floor (with hemispheres) and couple to the sub (with rigid mounts) couldn't I? Do you think coupled to the floor isolated from the sub would yield significantly different results than isolated from the floor coupled to the sub? Speaking from perspective of the plinth.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Alternatively, I could isolate from the floor (with hemispheres) and couple to the sub (with rigid mounts) couldn't I?
NO!
Do you think coupled to the floor isolated from the sub would yield significantly different results than isolated from the floor coupled to the sub?
I spent a while researching this, and I wish I had bookmarked and saved the info I found, but the way I described is the method that seems to work the best. I've seen this echoed by some others on that other forum too. You need the platform to be as solid as the Rock of Gibraltar, and it needs to be made of a naturally damping material like Maple or Granite. That, along with the isolation between the sub and the platform is what eliminates almost all mechanical transfer of vibration.
I wish I knew the physcs of it more, but I desribed my own experiments before... and the recipe is: platform coupled to the floor, Sub isolated from the platform. This is what works.
 
mossman77

mossman77

Full Audioholic
NO!

I spent a while researching this, and I wish I had bookmarked and saved the info I found, but the way I described is the method that seems to work the best. I've seen this echoed by some others on that other forum too. You need the platform to be as solid as the Rock of Gibraltar, and it needs to be made of a naturally damping material like Maple or Granite. That, along with the isolation between the sub and the platform is what eliminates almost all mechanical transfer of vibration.
I wish I knew the physcs of it more, but I desribed my own experiments before... and the recipe is: platform coupled to the floor, Sub isolated from the platform. This is what works.
10-4. That's what I'll do then. Thanks!
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top