Biwire speaker cable. Is it worth it?

H

htfanatic

Audiophyte
Ever since I got my Paradigms a few years ago, I never biwired the fronts. I want to upgrade my speaker cable for the fronts to biwire. That said, here are my questions:

1. Is it worth it to bi-wire? Is the sound difference that noticeable?

2. Which brand should I go with where it won't cost me an arm and a leg?
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
No difference.

Use regular old 12 or 14 gauge speaker cable.
 
H

htfanatic

Audiophyte
Ha! I actually did some searches on this very topic and wasn't surprised at all the various opinions (mainly that it's a bunch of crapola). Regardless, though, if you were to do it, which brand would you go with? Monster? I'm not saying I'm definitely going to do it, but just curious as to what brand and model wire to go with...
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
The question of if there is a difference or not is something you would have to find out for yourself. For everyone here who says it doesnt make a difference there are just as many people who say it does.

What I can tell you from my personal experience with actually trying it is that if there is a difference its so minimal that it will not be worth the extra cost in wire. As for speaker wires 12 gauge is just fine, Does it look that great?... well not really, Does it have nice sealed connections on the ends? ... nope. If you want those things there are still plenty of quality cables that wont cost you a fortune. I would not spend over $80-100 for a pair of speaker wires though.
 
J

Joe Schmoe

Audioholic Ninja
Regardless, though, if you were to do it, which brand would you go with? Monster?
Sure, why not Monster? You are obviously dead-set on paying too much money for something that will not make a difference, and Monster suits that goal perfectly.:rolleyes:
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
If I were going to do it, I'd use standard cables4less.com or monoprice.com 12 gauge copper wire.
 
H

htfanatic

Audiophyte
Sure, why not Monster? You are obviously dead-set on paying too much money for something that will not make a difference, and Monster suits that goal perfectly.:rolleyes:
OK, as the newbie, I probably deserved that. Not buying Monster.:p

However, I did just buy Canare 4S11 biwire cable from Blue Jeans Cable. It ran me $30 for 25 feet. I'm going to run it raw and see how it works out. My current cable (not Monster :)), is corroded and needs to be changed out anyway.

We shall see...
 
J

Joe Schmoe

Audioholic Ninja
However, I did just buy Canare 4S11 biwire cable from Blue Jeans Cable. It ran me $30 for 25 feet. I'm going to run it raw and see how it works out. My current cable (not Monster :)), is corroded and needs to be changed out anyway.
That is cheap enough that you won't be out much when you don't hear a difference. I suppose that replacing corroded cable could give you some improvement.
 
H

htfanatic

Audiophyte
I also decided to purchase Belden 5T00UP (Gray jacket, 10 AWG) from Blue Jeans Cable for my Center as well.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I must be nuts replying to a biwire question, but here goes anyway :eek:.

The best explanation I've heard as to why anyone might want to biwire is that the large voice coil/magnet assembly of a woofer generates a reverse voltage as the woofer moves back and forth, called "back EMF". The tweeter also generates back EMF, but it has much less energy to it than the woofer's back EMF.

If there is a single speaker cable, the woofer's back EMF can interfere with the weaker treble information. Whether this is audible has never been shown.

With biwiring, one speaker cable carries the bass to the woofer, and the other carries the treble to the tweeter. Any back EMF from the woofer is only on the woofer cable and is physically separated from the signal to the tweeter. If all this is true and is actually audible (people do love to argue this, but I've never seen or heard a convincing demonstration) then it makes sense that the two cables NOT be bundled together. The back EMF in a wire has its own electromagnetic field that can interfere with another wire if they are close enough.

If you must biwire, separate the two cables by about 4-6" to minimize any induced interference. Using biwire cable where four conductors are closely bundled together, may look nicer, but cannot prevent this induced interference.
 
J

Joe Schmoe

Audioholic Ninja
The two cables used in biwiring are physically connected at the receiver's binding posts. This means that, from an electron's point of view, they behave as one cable (albeit a thicker one.)
The effect is indistinguishable from replacing the jumper with a longer cable.
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
Those that can hear biwiring are experiencing what we call the placebo effect. That effect causes us to believe we hear what we think we should hear. That same effect in drug testing has caused people to cure themselves. It can be very powerful. Been there, done that. However, I don't believe anybody has been able to distinguish bi wiring from "mono" wiring in a properly administered blind test.

What wire should you use? Whatever suits your fancy. Buy the wire for the way it makes you feel about it. It won't matter to the sound of the system.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
The two cables used in biwiring are physically connected at the receiver's binding posts. This means that, from an electron's point of view, they behave as one cable (albeit a thicker one.)
The effect is indistinguishable from replacing the jumper with a longer cable.
Yes, you're right, the cables do converge at the receiver's binding posts. Still, separating biwire cables, rather than bundling them together can minimize any induced EMI between them.

Please note that although I did say "this was the best explanation I've heard (for biwiring)", I didn't say whether I thought it was a good explanation ;).
 
Z

zumbo

Audioholic Spartan
With biwiring, one speaker cable carries the bass to the woofer, and the other carries the treble to the tweeter.
Both signals are full range in a bi-wire set-up.

I did understand the rest of your post.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Both signals are full range in a bi-wire set-up.
I can see why you might think that both wires carry a full range signal because the wires are upstream from the speaker's crossover. But it isn't so.

To be biwirable, a 2-way speaker (just to keep things simple) must have it's crossover separated into two independant networks, one for the woofer and one for the tweeter. One wire connects the amp to the woofer's crossover network, and the other wire connects the amp to the tweeter's crossover network.

If a signal is at a lower frequency than the crossover point, it is passed by the woofer's network straight through to the woofer. But the same signal encounters high resistance from the tweeter's crossover network and never reaches the tweeter. No current is drawn through the tweeter's circuit, including the wire upstream from the crossover network.

Like I said earlier, I must be nuts to answer a biwire question...
 
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