Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

  • Thread starter Thread starter avaserfi
  • Start date Start date
Are the CAD files to scale? Is it possible to get a copy of them? Thanks!
 
just wanted to pop in to say thanks for the major contributors on this thread. i have been "living" with my dual kappa perfect setup for about a year now and am still thrilled with them.

I ended up just using the Audyssey for the bass management and think it did a great job. if someone needs a new in the box dcx 2496, let me know
 
here's my kappa 12d vq sub and JL w3v2 sub in a kappa box

DSCF1994_resize.jpg


DSCF1993_resize.jpg


DSCF2001_resize.jpg


with grilles on
DSCF2208.jpg


here's the in-room freq response with the 2 subs using a home made mono amp
DSCF2204.jpg
 
Kappa perfect 12.1

Does this works well with the kappa perfect 12.1? the one that doesn't have the variable Q.

Tom
 
I want to build this subwoofer, but I am on a budget (really lol), it looks like the ep2500 have a lot of power for just one of this, is there another amp that I could use with a better price tag?
 
Is this box usable with a JL 12w7? I'm looking at doing my first DIY sub and this box looks simple and sturdy enough that I could actually make it.

If not, what other drivers measure good in it that can at least compare to the elusive Kappa Perfect? 200-350$ for the driver max (or similar DIY this simple)


I really wish Kappas were still around.
 
Kappas

I have two kappas perfect 12VQ new in box, anybody interested in one??? :D

Tom
 
Back from the dead....

Is there any reason that the main internal brace doesnt have and holes in it? It seems like most DIY boxes the builder put holes in the braces but this one doesnt. If you did put holes in it what would be the outcome?
 
Back from the dead....

Is there any reason that the main internal brace doesnt have any holes in it? It seems like most DIY boxes the builder put holes in the braces but this one doesnt. If you did put holes in it what would be the outcome?

because it's not necessary.

the spaces above and below the brace are enough to let the air flow freely

you can put holes it in if you want without negative outcome except for:
1) more work
2) less strong (but a wee bit lighter) than that one big piece of wood
3) make sure not to punch holes in the port tunnel walls
 
  • Like
Reactions: lsiberian
because it's not necessary.

the spaces above and below the brace are enough to let the air flow freely

you can put holes it in if you want without negative outcome except for:
1) more work
2) less strong (but a wee bit lighter) than that one big piece of wood
3) make sure not to punch holes in the port tunnel walls

There is no point in holes since you need to glue the rockwool to the brace. I would suggest against it.
 
Cool. Thanks, that does eliminate a bit of work.
 
because it's not necessary.

the spaces above and below the brace are enough to let the air flow freely

you can put holes it in if you want without negative outcome except for:
1) more work
2) less strong (but a wee bit lighter) than that one big piece of wood
3) make sure not to punch holes in the port tunnel walls

Just speaking from experience here...

I built this box and flush mounted the driver. Because of flush mounting the driver butted up against the 4" of rockwool.

I drilled 4" holes, can't remember how many but several, in the board and put 2" of rockwool on front of the board, and 2" behind the board so that the vent on the subwoofer could breath. I wanted to keep the 4" of rockwool behind the driver and that is how I figured to do it.

IMG00014.jpg


Performance wise I believe it had zero impact on anything audible. My sub still had steller performance. Here is an in room frequency response graph using REW. As you can see the subwoofer had very strong output down low.

kappa12vqslotvent.jpg


and it sounded quite smooth through out it's frequency band, except some serious room nodes.

Like mike c said though, definitely more work.
 
Just speaking from experience here...

I built this box and flush mounted the driver. Because of flush mounting the driver butted up against the 4" of rockwool.

I drilled 4" holes, can't remember how many but several, in the board and put 2" of rockwool on front of the board, and 2" behind the board so that the vent on the subwoofer could breath. I wanted to keep the 4" of rockwool behind the driver and that is how I figured to do it.

IMG00014.jpg


Performance wise I believe it had zero impact on anything audible. My sub still had steller performance. Here is an in room frequency response graph using REW. As you can see the subwoofer had very strong output down low.

kappa12vqslotvent.jpg


and it sounded quite smooth through out it's frequency band, except some serious room nodes.

Like mike c said though, definitely more work.

The upper band might be crossover issues. You might play around with the crossover to see if that helps. Overall that's crazy good.
 
Well, I'm late to this party but it looks like fun...

I'm thinking of trying this, or perhaps the sealed version for my first build.

I read that the infinity kappa 120.9 is a drop in replacement; I only find mention of the 120.9w. Is this the same driver? Here's a link to the specsheet if it helps - http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Technical%20Sheet/Kappa120_9w_TS_Eng.pdf

Also, I was wondering if the acoustic cotton insulations would be an ok substitute for the rock wool / oc705? Since it seems to come in large quantities I was thinking of making some acoustic panels while I was at it. I think I'd rather hang cotton on my walls than fiberglass, and it's hopefully easier to work with.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis