Danley DTS-10, or other?

[ParadigmDawg]

Did you get it or is it still in the wrong county?

 

[jostenmeat]

Did you get it or is it still in the wrong county?

It didn't arrive until this morning. I'm picking it up later today.

I have to tell you even though I hit a bump in the road with UPS, I agree with you that they are much better than FedEx in my opinion as well, even still.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

UPS always does me good.

So far I am impressed with the freight shipping that SVS uses. Flat rate of 99 bucks and and they you a 4 hour window. The tracking number even updated this morning to say that I am stop #6 on their route today.


Now if I really got it and it doesn't have forklift holes, right through the sub, is yet to be seen.

It didn't arrive until this morning. I'm picking it up later today.

I have to tell you even though I hit a bump in the road with UPS, I agree with you that they are much better than FedEx in my opinion as well, even still.

 

[jostenmeat]

Whew, got most of it built. That Gorilla cures pretty fast, it seems to me. Everything but the final side and install of drivers/wiring are done. I am now going to sit for a while on this, as I going to research a bit more on adding acoustical cotton before she's all closed up, and I also need to better understand the wiring and in my present state. I admit that it is easier than I thought it was going to be, not quite as heavy as I initially feared, but yeah I am fatigued for now.

You guys won't believe this, but UPS has been pretty bad to me lately. I saw the forklift come out, and I'm thinking OH NO, there are two forklift holes punched right through it! So we tore off the pallet, birch mounts, straps, whatever, and I tore open the cardboard some more to get a better look inside. There was another piece of cardboard at least several inches deeper that was also slightly damaged. Bent that back, and the wood seemed just fine. Whew!

You can see the forklift holes, and some of my own ripping damage.

A good deal of the pieces, but missing the largest sides, and some other things.

This is where I am at now. I'm just recuperating for now, and will shortly buy my friend some beer and food. The foam pieces are not applied yet. I'm not sure how I should attach them, and I did note it looked like someone used a staple gun in the owner's thread. I might go ballz out with acoustical cotton, but I'm not going to think about that right now.

I also am not sure how to attached the wires to the drivers. I don't know if twisted bare wire clamped down is fine, or if there are special connectors I'm supposed to use . . .

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Holy cow dude, you are quick. Nice job.

Glad it wasn't damaged.

 

[adk highlander]

Very cool! You made serious progress. I'm glad it was not damaged. I cannot believe the bad luck people have been having with shipping lately.

I have nothing to offer to help answer your questions but I hope someone helps out so you get get that thing buttoned up and shaking the house.

 

[Alex2507]

That Gorilla cures pretty fast, it seems to me.

I thought we talked about that?

Anyway, it looks good. Plywood is so much lighter than MDF that it sort of throws you for a loop and might feel cheap even though the quality actually goes up. ... (IMO)

...and a big fat to the guys who like MDF.

Could I get a brief recap on cost and size?

 

[billy p]

Just make sure you don't have any left over pieces...like my projects seem to do...lol

 

[darien87]

Whoa. That thing's crazy huge. I thought my big-*** cube was a monster.

As far as wiring up the drivers, just use banana plugs. That's what I did on mine.

 

[billy p]

The inner design looks as if its slotted, no wonder its so large. The output on that thing must be insane...holy cow.

 

[rmk]

Whew, got most of it built. That Gorilla cures pretty fast, it seems to me. Everything but the final side and install of drivers/wiring are done. I am now going to sit for a while on this, as I going to research a bit more on adding acoustical cotton before she's all closed up, and I also need to better understand the wiring and in my present state. I admit that it is easier than I thought it was going to be, not quite as heavy as I initially feared, but yeah I am fatigued for now.

You guys won't believe this, but UPS has been pretty bad to me lately. I saw the forklift come out, and I'm thinking OH NO, there are two forklift holes punched right through it! So we tore off the pallet, birch mounts, straps, whatever, and I tore open the cardboard some more to get a better look inside. There was another piece of cardboard at least several inches deeper that was also slightly damaged. Bent that back, and the wood seemed just fine. Whew!

This is where I am at now. I'm just recuperating for now, and will shortly buy my friend some beer and food. The foam pieces are not applied yet. I'm not sure how I should attach them, and I did note it looked like someone used a staple gun in the owner's thread. I might go ballz out with acoustical cotton, but I'm not going to think about that right now.

I also am not sure how to attached the wires to the drivers. I don't know if twisted bare wire clamped down is fine, or if there are special connectors I'm supposed to use . . .

Nice job there meat . The TH-SPUDS come with 3 Horn exit options (with hatches) as well as a driver hatch. The driver hatch is kind of nice for driver re-wiring and or replacement and the multi horn exits are helpful for placement flexibility. I know some have added extra hatches and it's something you might consider before you close it up.

 

[jostenmeat]

Greg, thank you.

Craig, thanks for the support.

Uncle Oskie, as you can imagine, I've been unsuccessfully researching 10 things simultaneously. Sorry, if I forgot anything about glue talk. I know you liked Titebond, but I had my reasons to stick with Gorilla. Yeah, the ply is a very nice ply, Baltic Birch, which is pretty much as nice as it gets AFAIK. The cost of the kit was barely under a grand, add handling then barely over a grand, add freight and it's well over a grand. The freight wasn't as bad as it could have been, as I saved $248 by picking it up at the center (instead of having it drop shipped).

Billy, you're funny.

Darien, ah thanks. It seems the clips/clamps have enough tension that most things would be secure, but I do have apprehensions; just gotta see for myself. One of the first things I think about is that if a banana plug is long enough so that it can't easily vibrate out. I still wonder what is standard procedure. Maybe I should take a pic. I also have to search on how to combine the wires from the two drivers. They are to be wired out of phase, per instructions (more output, at the compromise of damping, IIRC when doing this with bridged mode on amp). I could have each hooked up directly to the speakon, but then I don't think I could get TWO wires into a terminal (unless I was using some pinner wire). Hm. What do people do? Solder them or something weird? When time permits, I'll look into it more.

Rob, the DTS10 comes with a driver access panel and horn hatch on both of the two largest sides. The third horn exit you show me now satisfies my curiosity in regards to the usage as riser. I was thinking how the heck the horns would be oriented with mine. Without modification they would be next to the feet, firing upward, and that's just kind of strange. Thank you for this, and sharing before it was too late. Hmmm. I sort of just can't be bothered at all as it won't be used as riser now, but I am wondering if I should let myself feel more bothered by it.

Here is what I saw coming down the ramp, when I was thinking, Oh you must be freaking kidding me, not again . . . but, it's all good. *wipes sweat off brow*

 

[rmk]

That ^ is a scary sight. One of my TH-Spuds had a small gash in the cabinet face due to a forklift driver. The hole in the box was small and I didn't notice it until I got it un-boxed. The good thing about the truckbed liner finish is it is very easy to patch .

If you ever decide to use the DTS-10 as a riser, just face the exit up and in the front. It'll blow the girls skirts up on intense bass scenes .

 

[mdrake]

Oh wow

That does look bad!

Matt

 

[MidnightSensi]

If you ever decide to use the DTS-10 as a riser, just face the exit up and in the front. It'll blow the girls skirts up on intense bass scenes .

Prove it! Pics!

 

[jostenmeat]

I'm pretty much done! Everything is cleaned up, except for final sweeping, and I need to return to the store to return unused items. I decided to wire them separate/stereo. I didn't use tiewraps for the wiring, but I think it should be fine as is, and yeah that white sleeve is wedged pretty good next to speaker, and I used a healthy amount of silicone rubber for the exit hole of driver #2. That driver has residue left from the multiple layers of protective gasket that I tried to peel off. I left half of them on for driver #1, on the left. Wires are just tinned; no plugs.

I think I was probably being an idiot, but now I'm guessing I am supposed to use sleeve-type connectors terminated on the wire, that slide into the speakon?

Well, I didn't have any (because that I never thought about it), and simply soldered with heat shrink, and I am really hoping that's good enough. My cheapo iron, meh, I should have splurged for a gun.

I may soon order some 4 conductor wire, if only because that would look neater. Still don't have an amp, let alone the tracking number for it. I can't move this thing anyways, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need about two more people to help me do that.

Oh, only the grille is not fitted. You see it in the pic, but it's just lying there, as I need to get my paws on a Dremel to fit it.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Man, that was a lot of work. I feel bad for complaining that I had to unbox the Ultra by myself.

It will be worth it, I bet it's awesome.

Kind of pretty too

I'm pretty much done! Everything is cleaned up, except for final sweeping, and I need to return to the store to return unused items. I decided to wire them separate/stereo. I didn't use tiewraps for the wiring, but I think it should be fine as is, and yeah that white sleeve is wedged pretty good next to speaker, and I used a healthy amount of silicone rubber for the exit hole of driver #2. That driver has residue left from the multiple layers of protective gasket that I tried to peel off. I left half of them on for driver #1, on the left. Wires are just tinned; no plugs.

I think I was probably being an idiot, but now I'm guessing I am supposed to use sleeve-type connectors terminated on the wire, that slide into the speakon?

Well, I didn't have any (because that I never thought about it), and simply soldered with heat shrink, and I am really hoping that's good enough. My cheapo iron, meh, I should have splurged for a gun.

I may soon order some 4 conductor wire, if only because that would look neater. Still don't have an amp, let alone the tracking number for it. I can't move this thing anyways, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need about two more people to help me do that.

Oh, only the grille is not fitted. You see it in the pic, but it's just lying there, as I need to get my paws on a Dremel to fit it.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Cool!

You sure that vent needs to be trimmed? A lot of times those are held down by black wood screws around the perimeter in-between the grates.

Where is your amp? Call your credit card company and tell them you don't have it yet, then buy it someplace else.

 

[jostenmeat]

Cool!

You sure that vent needs to be trimmed? A lot of times those are held down by black wood screws around the perimeter in-between the grates.

Not trimmed, but the hole pattern just won't fit the machined screw holes, which I think there are 10 of. Heck, I'd be happy if even just four fit, but I don't even think the pattern allows for even a few to line up.

I've been told some people do use wood screws, but I don't like the idea of having 10 machined holes already, just to make a bunch more. I also rather mess up the grille than the cabinet. I'll spray paint my pan head screws black, use some washers maybe nylon.

Like many/most, I may not use the grille since it will reduce output, however, I just want to solve it now, to have the option, and since I'm doing it all now.

Where is your amp? Call your credit card company and tell them you don't have it yet, then buy it someplace else.

According to the "amazon" guy at Abe's, it's already on its way. However, calling two days in a row did not get me a tracking number. He said about Tuesday, directly from their supplier, I think, if I understood him right.

I would also then might* be out the extra $35 shipping I paid to get the damaged amp out there, too, which otherwise he *said* I would be reimbursed for. It's already arrived, and I don't see any reimbursement, but I'll look next week, or yet call . . . again . . . .

I got to run, and so you won't see me respond to the PJ thread now, but I'm gonna look around some more tomorrow for you . . .

 

[Alex2507]

Man, that was a lot of work. I feel bad for complaining that I had to unbox the Ultra by myself.

You talk the lazy talk pretty good but you don't walk the lazy walk very convincingly.
No slacker with any self respect would have logged all those hours in their attic getting all their wiring in-wall ... in Texas ... in August.

... just sayin'.

'Meat !!! Congrat's!