Questions About Upgrading a Polk PSW350 to an SVS PB-1000

H

Hobbit

Audioholic Chief
You sure it can provide a high pass for the speakers? I'd read such a question and the answer indicated only low pass for the sub that way but haven't looked at the sub's manual....
My mistake, its bigger brother, the 450 has a fixed 80hz high pass filter. But not the 350.

It would be an easier to use the sub pre out then. Then he still should follow what my original post to set it up. It's an iterative process
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Samurai
I'm confused as how this would work if I move the Polk to the two-channel system. Do I just plug it in and allow it to run alongside the Infinity towers without any kind of crossover adjustment, instead just dialing in the volume with the knob?
Looking at the picture you posted, the Polk has both a level control and a lpf control (the two rotary knobs), and presumably a phase switch, all of which you will have to adjust appropriately to blend with the Infinity towers. The towers probably extend to 40-50 Hz or so, so the lpf on the sub should be in that area.

As for the upgraded sub for the other system, don't fixate on amp power between different models and brands, as without considering the rest of the contributing factors, you'll end up comparing apples to oranges. Rather, go by measured output capability, with which you can make more valid comparisons. In those terms, the rsl and Hsu subs mentioned are excellent value propositions, the svs pb1k pro is a decent value proposition.
 
Last edited:
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
Capable subs generally will have more powerful amps, 100w is very much on the low side in sub world. Costs more, too thus even good entry level subs are somewhat pricier. That logarithmic relationship does tend to chew up amp power quickly, depends on the sub design to an extent. A sealed sub will generally need some extra power to make up for a somewhat less efficient design (often via eq, which costs some power) vs a vented/ported design. Picking an arbitrary number like 600 may work well enough.
I was looking at the PORTED boxes because I assumed I'd get more visceral slam out of the sub that way; always preferred ported sub boxes when I installed them in my car audio systems.

Does the Polk have a low pass filter (it may be labeled crossover)?
Here's the back of it:

1724355270884.png
 
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
Looking at the picture you posted, the Polk has both a level control and a lpf control (the two rotary knobs), and presumably a phase switch, all of which you will have to adjust appropriately to blend with the Infinity towers. The towers probably extend to 40-50 Hz or so, so the lpf on the sub should be in that area.
I'm going to most likely leave the phase switch at zero, where I left it in the home theater setup we used it in, as it will continue sitting on the same wall/plane as the two main speakers. I don't understand how the crossover LPF knob can work in conjunction with a sub preout connection, though.

As for the upgraded sub for the other system, don't fixate on amp power between different models and brands, as without considering the rest of the contributing factors, you'll end up comparing apples to oranges. Rather, go by measured output capability, with which you can make more valid comparisons. In those terms, the rsl and Hsu subs mentioned are excellent value propositions, the svs pb1k pro is a decent value proposition.
I'll consider the RSL and HSU as well.
 
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
My mistake, its bigger brother, the 450 has a fixed 80hz high pass filter. But not the 350.

It would be an easier to use the sub pre out then. Then he still should follow what my original post to set it up. It's an iterative process
So use the sub preout and then play with the LPF knob on the Polk? That's where I was getting confused, as I always thought those crossover knobs were completely bypassed when something is immediately connected to the pre jack.
 
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
You said SB 1000 and not the pro so I was confused.

I think it all depends what you want to listen to. If you want the most thunderous explosions for movie watching you might want two or something bigger. If your needs are music I think you will be pleased with the 1000 Pro.

I suspect a lot overdo their subs round here. If you read a lot of posts round here you would think the sub was the most important speaker in the room, when it is the least. I can tell you what most speakers don't have and that is adequate power in the upper bass and midrange above the sub cut off. I have a Digital Audio workstation, a DAW and that tells me where the power demands are in real time. After I built my first DAW in 2002 it changed how I looked at speaker design for the better, although I never stinted that range. However, it really drove home to me where resources are required in a speaker. I would say most designs are deficient in this regard.
I can't see spending over 1k for a 12" sub when most can only hear around 30Hz.

"suspect a lot overdo their subs round here. If you read a lot of posts round here you would think the sub was the most important speaker in the room, when it is the least"

  • However, most experts agree that the human ear is not sensitive enough to perceive frequencies below 20 Hz, let alone 30 Hz (as mentioned in the “What sounds equate to 30hz or below?”
"what can one Actually hear before infrasound kicks in. As the frequency of sound decreases so does our ability to detect and distinguish it."
 
Last edited:
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
You already have tower speakers that have 3, 7" drivers in each tower. Those towers should put out good lowend. Plus those towers are already Big-ish, "Tall" it is much better running 2 subs. Since your set on sub replacement 2, 12" subs or 2" 15"subs even better. Get ready to spend 1k-2k or more though. Could try out Polks 2 of them,HTS 12 549.00 each does have a bottom power port.

Doesn't Polk when ordered Directly from them give you 60 day return? or is it 30 days? Just check their return policy if there's any percent deducted for returns. Shady J reviewed that sub said for a 500+ buck Sub was the best out of the 5, 500+ subs he recommended. Don't quote me on that in a while since I read the review but it's on a AH's home page under 500 buck Sub shoot out. Cheers!
 
Last edited:
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
"what can one Actually hear before infrasound kicks in. As the frequency of sound decreases so does our ability to detect and distinguish it."
True. That’s why most of us use a house curve. Also why dynamicEQ was invented. As I mentioned. I have output down to 14hz and I can tell you that if I rolled everything off at 30hz the experience here would be greatly diminished.
 
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
True. That’s why most of us use a house curve. Also why dynamicEQ was invented. As I mentioned. I have output down to 14hz and I can tell you that if I rolled everything off at 30hz the experience here would be greatly diminished.
Regardless anything below 20 Hz not going to hear it. But I do like to rumble my Sub for movie use. I know of one AH member has 12, 12" subs all Passive, in his HT room. Mad scientist I tell you.;)
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
Regardless anything below 20 Hz not going to hear it. But I do like to rumble my Sub make for move use.
That’s true. But honestly below about 22hz is feeling it. You know, feeling it. The wobble at 15-16hz… just too good.
 
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
That’s true. But honestly below about 22hz is feeling it. You know, feeling it. The wobble at 15-16hz… just too good.
That's the thing about a good well built Sub. It'll handle the very low end with authority and clarity. Especially for movie use. I never stated I didn't like my sofa vibrating from my cheap 12" Sub. I been wanting to add 2, 12" of the ones OP is asking about. Two of those, My coffee table would start shaking. Dam Rabbit hole. Just waiting for SVS Special deals to run.
 
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
Any other suggestions for a good sub to replace our PSW350? Is the consensus that the SVS 1000 Pro not really an appreciable upgrade?
 
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
I'm completely lost....but thanks.
Seriously, why not give a try out of Polks HTS 12"? Get two for the price of one SVS. Still has what? 3 or 5 year for Amp warranty. Don't like it? after 20 or 25 days send it back. I say 25 day's well gives you 5 days before a 30 return window closes. Nothing should take more than 5 day's to get where its shipped to.
 
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
Don't want to go with another Polk for a sub, but thanks.
 
Tankini

Tankini

Senior Audioholic
Any other suggestions for a good sub to replace our PSW350? Is the consensus that the SVS 1000 Pro not really an appreciable upgrade?
Almost forgot about RBH 12" Passive sub. Add say a Monoblock Amp Outlaw 2200 ;) 200 @ 8 Ohm. 399.00 about 600 for Sub. AVR can deal with Q settings. Get a class A/B Amp. Passive subs rarely have issues no amp inside to go out.

Are this, that was stated by, @ski2xblack Excellent recommendation.

"In those terms, the rsl and Hsu subs mentioned are excellent value propositions, the svs pb1k pro is a decent value proposition."
 
Last edited:
John Lohmann

John Lohmann

Full Audioholic
Thanks -- rather stick to a powered sub right now though.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top