Questions About Upgrading a Polk PSW350 to an SVS PB-1000

[John Lohmann]

I am planning on replacing my old Polk PSW350 with an SVS sub, most likely the PB-1000, and have a couple of questions before I do so, the second of which will touch on moving the Polk to our separate two-channel system...

First -- is the move from the PSW350 (100 watt output) to the PB-1000 going to be noticeable in terms of output and tactile bass response? This sub will be running alongside Polk RTi12 mains in a 5.1 setup, with the RTis crossed over at 60Hz so they can "flex their muscles" a bit as big floor-standing towers, but will the move to the SVS be worth it? If not, which SVS would be recommended to move up to....something in a higher series, perhaps the 2000 or 3000? The listening space is a typical living room without vaulted ceilings, with a 12-foot distance between the front stage and the main seating position.

Secondly -- I'd like to repurpose the Polk for our upstairs two-channel system, as that setup has an Onkyo two-channel stereo receiver powering it which boasts a dedicated sub preout. However, because this is a two-channel model, there is no bass management on the Onkyo...so how would I get the PSW350 dialed in here? There is a sub preout on the receiver, as I said, so how would dialing the crossover in work in this scenario? I was under the impression that once something is physically connected to the preout jack of a powered sub, its internal crossover is immediately bypassed -- so how would I dial in the bass outside of the volume knob of the Polk? Is it just a plug-and-play situation, simply working in conjunction with the main speakers (in this case a pair of Infinity Primus 363 towers)?

 

[j_garcia]

The 1000 may not be a huge step up in terms of output, but it will sound better IMO, lol. I would think if you want a noticeable step up though, a 2000 or 3000 would be preferred.

The preamp out on the receiver is most likely fixed (usually 80 or 100 Hz), occasionally selectable as a setting in the receiver. Potentially, it could be a full range signal, but I doubt that. You'd need to check your manual for that one.

As for your sub, it has a LFE input which is bypass and expects a filtered signal from the receiver, but it also has R&L inputs which the x-over applies to. You would use the preout to one of those inputs, since they are both summed to mono anyway, and manually adjust the x-over to blend with your speakers.

 

[John Lohmann]

The 1000 may not be a huge step up in terms of output, but it will sound better IMO, lol. I would think if you want a noticeable step up though, a 2000 or 3000 would be preferred.

The preamp out on the receiver is most likely fixed (usually 80 or 100 Hz), occasionally selectable as a setting in the receiver. As for your sub, it has a LFE input which is bypass and expects a filtered signal from the receiver, but it also has R&L inputs which the x-over applies to. You would use the preout to one of those inputs, since they are both summed to mono anyway, and manually adjust the x-over to blend with your speakers.

Thanks for your reply, J.

That's surprising that you'd say it wouldn't be a massive jump in performance from the PSW350; from what I have been told (and from what I've heard myself, LOL), the PSW350 is pretty much a "joke" of a subwoofer, acting more like a "bass module" than a genuine bass provider. I would have thought going to something like a PB-1000, with its powerful amp and bigger 12-inch driver, would blow this old Polk out of the water.

What is the power output of the PB-1000, anyway? Isn't it around 700 or so watts? Perhaps it's the PB-1000 PRO I am referring to....or are these one and the same?

Thanks for the explanation about the Onkyo -- so this is the back of the Polk:

Are you saying I'd connect the cable from the receiver to one of those jacks to the LEFT of the main LFE input? And that would allow me to adjust the crossover?

What would happen if I plugged the cable into the main LFE input (as I do now with my HT setup) -- would the sub merely play along with the two speakers in this system without any kind of "control" so to speak?

 

[John Lohmann]

As for the "occasionally selectable" comment regarding the stereo receiver...indeed, this model has no crossover control via its menu, at all. I can confirm that.

 

[John Lohmann]

In doing some additional research, it seems that the PB-1000 Pro puts out 325 watts RMS and 820 watts peak -- so you're probably right, J, that I wouldn't feel or experience a massive difference between the SVS and Polk:

Amazon.com: SVS PB-1000 Pro Ported Subwoofer (Premium Black Ash) : Electronics

 

[TLS Guy]

I am planning on replacing my old Polk PSW350 with an SVS sub, most likely the PB-1000, and have a couple of questions before I do so, the second of which will touch on moving the Polk to our separate two-channel system...

First -- is the move from the PSW350 (100 watt output) to the PB-1000 going to be noticeable in terms of output and tactile bass response? This sub will be running alongside Polk RTi12 mains in a 5.1 setup, with the RTis crossed over at 60Hz so they can "flex their muscles" a bit as big floor-standing towers, but will the move to the SVS be worth it? If not, which SVS would be recommended to move up to....something in a higher series, perhaps the 2000 or 3000? The listening space is a typical living room without vaulted ceilings, with a 12-foot distance between the front stage and the main seating position.

Secondly -- I'd like to repurpose the Polk for our upstairs two-channel system, as that setup has an Onkyo two-channel stereo receiver powering it which boasts a dedicated sub preout. However, because this is a two-channel model, there is no bass management on the Onkyo...so how would I get the PSW350 dialed in here? There is a sub preout on the receiver, as I said, so how would dialing the crossover in work in this scenario? I was under the impression that once something is physically connected to the preout jack of a powered sub, its internal crossover is immediately bypassed -- so how would I dial in the bass outside of the volume knob of the Polk? Is it just a plug-and-play situation, simply working in conjunction with the main speakers (in this case a pair of Infinity Primus 363 towers)?

If you are going to get worthwhile improvement you need to go to the PB 1000 Pro at least.

 

[j_garcia]

Thanks for your reply, J.

That's surprising that you'd say it wouldn't be a massive jump in performance from the PSW350; from what I have been told (and from what I've heard myself, LOL), the PSW350 is pretty much a "joke" of a subwoofer, acting more like a "bass module" than a genuine bass provider. I would have thought going to something like a PB-1000, with its powerful amp and bigger 12-inch driver, would blow this old Polk out of the water.

What is the power output of the PB-1000, anyway? Isn't it around 700 or so watts? Perhaps it's the PB-1000 PRO I am referring to....or are these one and the same?

Thanks for the explanation about the Onkyo -- so this is the back of the Polk:

View attachment 68950

Are you saying I'd connect the cable from the receiver to one of those jacks to the LEFT of the main LFE input? And that would allow me to adjust the crossover?

What would happen if I plugged the cable into the main LFE input (as I do now with my HT setup) -- would the sub merely play along with the two speakers in this system without any kind of "control" so to speak?

The 350 has decent output. That output isn't very good quality is all, so yes, the PB1000 is definitely a step up. Just don't want you to be disappointed if it doesn't bowl you over at first, which is not uncommon when people go to a more accurate sub. The PB1000 will likely extend deeper and be much cleaner in the whole range, but it may not appear to be massively "louder".

Yes, if you connect to the LFE, that signal is whatever the receiver is outputting, filtered or not. Uncontrolled as you noted.

 

[John Lohmann]

If you are going to get worthwhile improvement you need to go to the PB 1000 Pro at least.

Yes -- I believe I was originally referring to the PB-1000 PRO, which is the updated model ($799), I think. Is this not so?

I hope we're not talking about two different models here, LOL...the one I'm talking about is a 12-inch model with some 700 watt peak output or so.

 

[John Lohmann]

The 350 has decent output. That output isn't very good quality is all, so yes, the PB1000 is definitely a step up. Just don't want you to be disappointed if it doesn't bowl you over at first, which is not uncommon when people go to a more accurate sub. The PB1000 will likely extend deeper and be much cleaner in the whole range, but it may not appear to be massively "louder".

Yes, if you connect to the LFE, that signal is whatever the receiver is outputting, filtered or not. Uncontrolled as you noted.

Thanks; so you still recommend going with something from the 2000 series?

 

[j_garcia]

Thanks; so you still recommend going with something from the 2000 series?

1000 Pro like TLS mentioned, or PB2000 pro yes. You can call SVS and talk to them about it, they will definitely steer you in the right direction as well, knowing the sub you're coming from. 1000 Pro might be enough of a step up, but 2000 would obviously be better. See what is in their outlet too; you can find good deals there because others upgrade and trade in.

 

[TLS Guy]

Yes -- I believe I was originally referring to the PB-1000 PRO, which is the updated model ($799), I think. Is this not so?

I hope we're not talking about two different models here, LOL...the one I'm talking about is a 12-inch model with some 700 watt peak output or so.

You said SB 1000 and not the pro so I was confused.

I think it all depends what you want to listen to. If you want the most thunderous explosions for movie watching you might want two or something bigger. If your needs are music I think you will be pleased with the 1000 Pro.

I suspect a lot overdo their subs round here. If you read a lot of posts round here you would think the sub was the most important speaker in the room, when it is the least. I can tell you what most speakers don't have and that is adequate power in the upper bass and midrange above the sub cut off. I have a Digital Audio workstation, a DAW and that tells me where the power demands are in real time. After I built my first DAW in 2002 it changed how I looked at speaker design for the better, although I never stinted that range. However, it really drove home to me where resources are required in a speaker. I would say most designs are deficient in this regard.

 

[John Lohmann]

Okay, gentlemen....I may have been creating a misunderstanding where there shouldn't have been one, based on the model I suggested I was looking at.

This is the sub we were considering:

PB-1000 Pro Subwoofer | SVS (svsound.com)

Now obviously, the higher series will slam harder and be louder, but should this give us a nice improvement from our old Polk? The system is used for home theater only in this application -- and we do watch a lot of action flicks (only on disc -- no streaming).

 

[John Lohmann]

You said SB 1000 and not the pro so I was confused.

I think it all depends what you want to listen to. If you want the most thunderous explosions for movie watching you might want two or something bigger. If your needs are music I think you will be pleased with the 1000 Pro.

I suspect a lot overdo their subs round here. If you read a lot of posts round here you would think the sub was the most important speaker in the room, when it is the least. I can tell you what most speakers don't have and that is adequate power in the upper bass and midrange above the sub cut off. I have a Digital Audio workstation, a DAW and that tells me where the power demands are in real time. After I built my first DAW in 2002 it changed how I looked at speaker design for the better, although I never stinted that range. However, it really drove home to me where resources are required in a speaker. I would say most designs are deficient in this regard.

It's interesting that you say the sub is the least important in the room when most say it's the thing to upgrade first instead of amps/receivers; unless you're referring to two-channel applications, I'd say the sub and center are the vital components of a HT setup. Most people recommend upgrading to a good sub or two before looking at amplification, as the subs usually make the system appear more powerful (again, with HT).

 

[lovinthehd]

Don't conflate an amp wattage rating with the actual output of a sub, amp wattage is generally not comparable among different subs let alone a particularly important factor. The SVS subs would generally be an improvement tho. What make/model of receiver is the 2ch receiver? Most likely all you can do is blend to taste with the sub using the sub's low pass filter...

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Okay, gentlemen....I may have been creating a misunderstanding where there shouldn't have been one, based on the model I suggested I was looking at.

This is the sub we were considering:

PB-1000 Pro Subwoofer | SVS (svsound.com)

Now obviously, the higher series will slam harder and be louder, but should this give us a nice improvement from our old Polk? The system is used for home theater only in this application -- and we do watch a lot of action flicks (only on disc -- no streaming).

The pb1k pro will be an improvement in every way over the Polk. What it won’t do though, is knock you off the couch. In the grand scheme next to other more capable subs, it’s still an entry level subwoofer.
IMO an RSL 12s would be better value and much more worth considering. The new HSU seems to be a great bargain too.
I like the buy once cry once philosophy. And imo, since you’re looking for more/better bass I don’t think you’ll stop looking once you get a taste of linear deep bass. The pb1k will provide this. But bigger better subs will go deeper and louder with less distortion.
Bass is an investment.

 

[j_garcia]

RSL 12S was on my mind to recommend, but are they in stock these days?

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

RSL 12S was on my mind to recommend, but are they in stock these days?

I’m not really sure. I know they’ve been hit or miss. Definitely worth a phone call to Joe though.

 

[John Lohmann]

Don't conflate an amp wattage rating with the actual output of a sub, amp wattage is generally not comparable among different subs let alone a particularly important factor. The SVS subs would generally be an improvement tho. What make/model of receiver is the 2ch receiver? Most likely all you can do is blend to taste with the sub using the sub's low pass filter...

You're saying the 350 watts RMS rating of the PB-1000 isn't vital to consider? Wouldn't this not "punch that much harder" than the unit I have now at 100 watts?

The make and model of the stereo receiver is an Onkyo TX-8555. It has a sub preout but no internal bass management.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

RSL 12S was on my mind to recommend, but are they in stock these days?

Agreed, I'd recommend going with RSL 12S or HSU VTF-2 Mk5 over SVS PB1000pro for the same money.
all 3 are excellent subs, but RSL and HSU give more bass per $ or better value.

 

[John Lohmann]

The pb1k pro will be an improvement in every way over the Polk. What it won’t do though, is knock you off the couch. In the grand scheme next to other more capable subs, it’s still an entry level subwoofer.
IMO an RSL 12s would be better value and much more worth considering. The new HSU seems to be a great bargain too.
I like the buy once cry once philosophy. And imo, since you’re looking for more/better bass I don’t think you’ll stop looking once you get a taste of linear deep bass. The pb1k will provide this. But bigger better subs will go deeper and louder with less distortion.
Bass is an investment.

Jesus Christ....$800 is now being considered "entry level?" Probably shouldn't have shocked me given the fact that we had to buy a Denon AVR that was over $1000 and still got a plastic faceplate and knobs...

I'll consider the HSU and RSL as well; thanks. I was considering the SVS because a friend suggested it (he had installed one in his system and informed me about it via text).