Budget Subwoofer (Singapore) help

[JasonGSG]

Originally, I was not on board with the idea of making a sub or two.
But the longer I have been looking, and researching, the more "reasonable" it seems (cost wise).

A quick google, and I found I can import the dayton um15.

I am not a DIY adept person, so I'll try to find someone who can fabricate the box for me.

In terms of design, I was inspired by the perlisten push-pull design. Is that do-able, or is it better just to go sealed / ported in design?

Since youre able to locate the UM15-22... Are you also able to locate the Dayton UM18-22, RSS 390HO or
RSS 460HO? Send me a Txt @ (587) 320-1934 & I'll link you some box designs
~J

 

[Eppie]

Originally, I was not on board with the idea of making a sub or two.
But the longer I have been looking, and researching, the more "reasonable" it seems (cost wise).

A quick google, and I found I can import the dayton um15.

I am not a DIY adept person, so I'll try to find someone who can fabricate the box for me.

In terms of design, I was inspired by the perlisten push-pull design. Is that do-able, or is it better just to go sealed / ported in design?

The Perlisten works well because the drivers are on different axes but there is a lot of good engineering in that design. I think we had one forum member looking into something similar in the DIY vein. It's more common to use dual opposed drivers in a two driver design. You increase the power handling of the cabinet and reduce vibrations, but when you use two separate cabinets you have better control of nulls in the room as you have two cabinets to adjust placement. For your first DIY build I would keep it simple and go for a ported design. Dual driver and sealed designs are more for those that have limited space and require something more compact. With dual drivers you also have an additional surface that must be clear of obstructions, so fewer placement options.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

This maybe useful. I'd trust TLS Guy design

Dayton 18" HO Ported Build Thread

This is going to be the official build thread for my pair of ported subwoofers featuring the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 driver. This is their reference line 18" High Output driver. The box parameters I will be using were conceived by forum member "TLS Guy". Attached is the PDF file he created with...

forums.audioholics.com

Some of the original images with designs are gone, but not forgotten. See these here:

Dayton 18" HO Ported Build Thread

This is going to be the official build thread for my pair of ported subwoofers featuring the Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 driver. This is their reference...

web.archive.org

 

[JasonGSG]

Here’s another build that’s nice
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/wait-another-marty-cube-build.2983828/

 

[BBHT]

Since youre able to locate the UM15-22... Are you also able to locate the Dayton UM18-22, RSS 390HO or
RSS 460HO? Send me a Txt @ (587) 320-1934 & I'll link you some box designs
~J

Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? )

 

[lovinthehd]

Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? )

Seems to have lost some of the photos, but some ideas for waf-friendly sub designs like end tables or looking like various furniture options here https://www.avsforum.com/threads/awesome-waf-saf-builds.1686770/

Perhaps a car stereo specialist or a cabinet maker could build a box for you.

 

[JasonGSG]

Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? )

At the end of the day, I feel once you look at the enclosure measurements youll find the fifteen inch & eighteen are only inches apart.

 

[JasonGSG]

How about a slim sofa table design for behind the couch with some bar seating?

 

[BBHT]

That's really cool @JasonGSG . Thanks for sharing the pictures. Unfortunately the space behind the sofa is quite short, and narrow (but long). I saw on some YT channel someone making a T-Line (?) box. That shape would work for behind our sofa (if the driver is small, like 8").

I am a little apprehensive using this importer for the Dayton Audio speakers. Googling shows nothing or people saying it's a scam website. :/

So back to square one to sourcing components. There are car audio shops here that sell subwoofers by JL Audio, Ground Zero, and some others. Would any of those drivers work?

Update: I can purchase direct from Parts-Express. Shipping is about US$320 for 2x UM18-22. Ouch. definitely need to rethink budget.

 

[BBHT]

Sorry for the thread bump.

I do have access to a carpenter who specialises in teak furniture. Is teak a viable construction material?

 

[lovinthehd]

Sorry for the thread bump.

I do have access to a carpenter who specialises in teak furniture. Is teak a viable construction material?

For speakers/subs you generally would use mdf/hdf or baltic birch plywood....wood tends to have issues, particularly with moisture....

 

[Verdinut]

For speakers/subs you generally would use mdf/hdf or baltic birch plywood....wood tends to have issues, particularly with moisture....

Teak is resilient against water and doen't have any problem with moisture.

 

[lovinthehd]

Teak is resilient against water and doen't have any problem with moisture.

How about warping/cracking or other issues? Or is it sufficiently stable for speaker/sub building? Now that you mention it, I do remember it is favored for boat decks but IIRC needs to be maintained. Expensive I'd think, tho maybe not as much as it's from southeast asia generally.

 

[Verdinut]

How about warping/cracking or other issues? Or is it sufficiently stable for speaker/sub building? Now that you mention it, I do remember it is favored for boat decks but IIRC needs to be maintained. Expensive I'd think, tho maybe not as much as it's from southeast asia generally.

If the speaker cabinet is not floating in water, warping/cracking etc. should not be a possibility.

 

[lovinthehd]

If the speaker cabinet is not floating in water, warping/cracking etc. should not be a possibility.

Plus the furniture fabricator should be able to confirm suitability. Then again on all my trips to Singapore I felt like I was floating in water (my own body water in form of sweat....way more humid there than I'm used to ). Teak could well be an exception to the rule. Then again, this is a budget subwoofer build....

 

[BBHT]

Plus the furniture fabricator should be able to confirm suitability. Then again on all my trips to Singapore I felt like I was floating in water (my own body water in form of sweat....way more humid there than I'm used to ). Teak could well be an exception to the rule. Then again, this is a budget subwoofer build....

I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?

 

[Eppie]

I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?

Teak has a lot of natural oils that make it ideal for oil finishes. I would not try a water based paint on it. Besides, teak is expensive and what you are paying for is the natural golden luster. The surface is easy to maintain with teak oil or lemon oil for the occasional touch up to keep the wood from drying out. If you are looking to stain, it would be more cost effective to use MDF or plywood and veneer, in which case you can opt for light oak. You can paint MDF but it takes a lot of prep work to get a good finish, especially if you want gloss.

No harm in placing a heavy glass top on the cabinet. I've seen several builders do that on-line.

 

[lovinthehd]

I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?

The glass could well be a way to go to help "WAF", I've seen both commercially available subs and diy projects that have done so.

ps I agree with you, to me Singapore was always just hot.

 

[BBHT]

FYI: in the picture is the type of teak this carpenter produces.

Anyhow, after looking at the cost of the dayton subs, and importing costs, the most economical for me would be getting 2x 15inch. I am not sure which model to get. (I understand the argument for 18s, but it doesn't make sense to my wallet. lol. )

This is very far out there, and I get it if there's no reply, but is there a ported box design I can use, and show to the fabricator / carpenter? With internal bracing etc.?
(EDIT: I am trying to use WinISD, but I have no idea what I am doing. haha)

After some googling, I found a vented box design here, and on AVS for the Ultimax 15, but consensus is that the driver is suited for sealed application. I'll do some more reading on the RSS390HE/HF/HO series.

 

[BBHT]

I ended up buying this:

PB12-Plus.

Tested it, seemed great with minor cosmetic damage.

Took it home...and my daughter pushed the sub and trolley over! I dunno how a 3 yr old pushes over a trolley with a 56kg sub, but she did it.

Now, when I turn on the sub, I get an electrical buzz that didn't exist before, and there is a "pop" when i turn it on and off.

Help?