Budget Subwoofer (Singapore) help

JasonGSG

JasonGSG

Audioholic
Originally, I was not on board with the idea of making a sub or two.
But the longer I have been looking, and researching, the more "reasonable" it seems (cost wise).

A quick google, and I found I can import the dayton um15.

I am not a DIY adept person, so I'll try to find someone who can fabricate the box for me.

In terms of design, I was inspired by the perlisten push-pull design. Is that do-able, or is it better just to go sealed / ported in design?
Since youre able to locate the UM15-22... Are you also able to locate the Dayton UM18-22, RSS 390HO or
RSS 460HO? Send me a Txt @ (587) 320-1934 & I'll link you some box designs
~J
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Originally, I was not on board with the idea of making a sub or two.
But the longer I have been looking, and researching, the more "reasonable" it seems (cost wise).

A quick google, and I found I can import the dayton um15.

I am not a DIY adept person, so I'll try to find someone who can fabricate the box for me.

In terms of design, I was inspired by the perlisten push-pull design. Is that do-able, or is it better just to go sealed / ported in design?
The Perlisten works well because the drivers are on different axes but there is a lot of good engineering in that design. I think we had one forum member looking into something similar in the DIY vein. It's more common to use dual opposed drivers in a two driver design. You increase the power handling of the cabinet and reduce vibrations, but when you use two separate cabinets you have better control of nulls in the room as you have two cabinets to adjust placement. For your first DIY build I would keep it simple and go for a ported design. Dual driver and sealed designs are more for those that have limited space and require something more compact. With dual drivers you also have an additional surface that must be clear of obstructions, so fewer placement options.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
This maybe useful. I'd trust TLS Guy design

Some of the original images with designs are gone, but not forgotten. See these here:
 
BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
Since youre able to locate the UM15-22... Are you also able to locate the Dayton UM18-22, RSS 390HO or
RSS 460HO? Send me a Txt @ (587) 320-1934 & I'll link you some box designs
~J
Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? :p)
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? :p)
Seems to have lost some of the photos, but some ideas for waf-friendly sub designs like end tables or looking like various furniture options here https://www.avsforum.com/threads/awesome-waf-saf-builds.1686770/

Perhaps a car stereo specialist or a cabinet maker could build a box for you.
 
JasonGSG

JasonGSG

Audioholic
Hi.

The same import site also has the UM18-22, and RSS480HO (18").

However, I fear that any 18" woofer / box is going to fail the WAF. I am being optimistic with the 15" version. Haha.

But first thing first, is I'll see if anyone is willing to build me a box here (for a reasonable cost).

(Actually, I wonder if I can persuade the wife the subwoofer boxes can double up as side tables next to the couch? :p)
At the end of the day, I feel once you look at the enclosure measurements youll find the fifteen inch & eighteen are only inches apart.
 
JasonGSG

JasonGSG

Audioholic
How about a slim sofa table design for behind the couch with some bar seating?
280608771_3327462730815211_7192130280313128499_n.jpg
 
BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
That's really cool @JasonGSG . Thanks for sharing the pictures. Unfortunately the space behind the sofa is quite short, and narrow (but long). I saw on some YT channel someone making a T-Line (?) box. That shape would work for behind our sofa (if the driver is small, like 8").

I am a little apprehensive using this importer for the Dayton Audio speakers. Googling shows nothing or people saying it's a scam website. :/

So back to square one to sourcing components. There are car audio shops here that sell subwoofers by JL Audio, Ground Zero, and some others. Would any of those drivers work?

Update: I can purchase direct from Parts-Express. Shipping is about US$320 for 2x UM18-22. Ouch. definitely need to rethink budget.
 
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BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
Sorry for the thread bump.

I do have access to a carpenter who specialises in teak furniture. Is teak a viable construction material?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Sorry for the thread bump.

I do have access to a carpenter who specialises in teak furniture. Is teak a viable construction material?
For speakers/subs you generally would use mdf/hdf or baltic birch plywood....wood tends to have issues, particularly with moisture....
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Teak is resilient against water and doen't have any problem with moisture.
How about warping/cracking or other issues? Or is it sufficiently stable for speaker/sub building? Now that you mention it, I do remember it is favored for boat decks but IIRC needs to be maintained. Expensive I'd think, tho maybe not as much as it's from southeast asia generally.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
How about warping/cracking or other issues? Or is it sufficiently stable for speaker/sub building? Now that you mention it, I do remember it is favored for boat decks but IIRC needs to be maintained. Expensive I'd think, tho maybe not as much as it's from southeast asia generally.
If the speaker cabinet is not floating in water, warping/cracking etc. should not be a possibility.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
If the speaker cabinet is not floating in water, warping/cracking etc. should not be a possibility.
Plus the furniture fabricator should be able to confirm suitability. Then again on all my trips to Singapore I felt like I was floating in water (my own body water in form of sweat....way more humid there than I'm used to :) ). Teak could well be an exception to the rule. Then again, this is a budget subwoofer build....
 
BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
Plus the furniture fabricator should be able to confirm suitability. Then again on all my trips to Singapore I felt like I was floating in water (my own body water in form of sweat....way more humid there than I'm used to :) ). Teak could well be an exception to the rule. Then again, this is a budget subwoofer build....
I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?
Teak has a lot of natural oils that make it ideal for oil finishes. I would not try a water based paint on it. Besides, teak is expensive and what you are paying for is the natural golden luster. The surface is easy to maintain with teak oil or lemon oil for the occasional touch up to keep the wood from drying out. If you are looking to stain, it would be more cost effective to use MDF or plywood and veneer, in which case you can opt for light oak. You can paint MDF but it takes a lot of prep work to get a good finish, especially if you want gloss.

No harm in placing a heavy glass top on the cabinet. I've seen several builders do that on-line.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I have to agree, the country is very humid. My wife tells me today is cooler, or warmer...to me it's just hot...or hot!
First, let's see if I can get the wife to agree to having a huge box or two in the living room, in teak. She has planned our living space to be light oak, grey and white.
Probably not a question here, but is it a good idea to paint teak, or wrap it or...?

Also, I think I know a company that I could source custom sized tempered glass to sit on top (so it looks even more like a side table). But...is glass a good idea?
The glass could well be a way to go to help "WAF", I've seen both commercially available subs and diy projects that have done so.

ps I agree with you, to me Singapore was always just hot. :)
 
BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
FYI: in the picture is the type of teak this carpenter produces.
WhatsApp Image 2023-05-24 at 13.41.22 (1).jpeg


Anyhow, after looking at the cost of the dayton subs, and importing costs, the most economical for me would be getting 2x 15inch. I am not sure which model to get. (I understand the argument for 18s, but it doesn't make sense to my wallet. lol. )

This is very far out there, and I get it if there's no reply, but is there a ported box design I can use, and show to the fabricator / carpenter? With internal bracing etc.?
(EDIT: I am trying to use WinISD, but I have no idea what I am doing. haha)


After some googling, I found a vented box design here, and on AVS for the Ultimax 15, but consensus is that the driver is suited for sealed application. I'll do some more reading on the RSS390HE/HF/HO series.
 
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BBHT

BBHT

Junior Audioholic
I ended up buying this:
1234.jpg

PB12-Plus.

Tested it, seemed great with minor cosmetic damage.

Took it home...and my daughter pushed the sub and trolley over! :eek: I dunno how a 3 yr old pushes over a trolley with a 56kg sub, but she did it.

Now, when I turn on the sub, I get an electrical buzz that didn't exist before, and there is a "pop" when i turn it on and off.

Help?
 

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