First build, I'm new into hi-fi audio looking for advice.

[sgtkahuna]

Doesn't look like that menu indicates your avr as a playback device, is it currently connected? Looks more like on-board audio choices for your pc. When I connect my pc to my avr I have my Denon avr specifically available as an option in sound output settings.

If the PC monitor, TV and projector are all connected to the graphics card, you should be ok. Realtek is onboard audio and would output to the PC speaker connections on the back of the PC. Some devices use USB for audio, and I assume you have an Oculus device that is showing up as Rift Audio. NVidia RTX Voice should be the graphics card. The AVR should not care whether you are using the TV or the projector. When set to NVidia, the AVR should receive audio over HDMI and you can either view the image over HDMI from the AVR to the projector, or directly from the graphics card to the TV. If the TV is using VGA, DVI or a display port connection, that is video only and you'll need the AVR for audio, or switch to the PC speakers.

The PC doesn't do any audio processing over HDMI, it should just pass the signal to the AVR. The PC would do audio processing if, say, you had a 4.1 PC speaker setup connected to the speaker jacks or to USB.

Hi guys, so the pieces finally arrived! I have a ton to share but first I'd like if you guys can help me with the source configuration, as I suspected I'm having issues using the speakers with the PC and TV.

It works great with the projector, but I'm unable to switch from the projector to the TV screen without losing the tower speakers signal.

Remember this TV is connected to the graphics card. All I do is switch from my gaming monitor to the TV signal as if it was a second monitor. In short: I'm unable to use the speakers with the PC the Sony AVR doesn't show up in the list of playback devices.

It only shows up when I switch to the projector

This is how it's connected:

When I'm using the PC monitor or TV as monitor, it uses my PC speakers which are connected via 3.5mm jack., I'd like to be able to switch from those to the tower speakers, without having to turn on the projector.

Can somebody help me? ;( I don't always use the projector screen, I use the TV too for some series.

 

[Eppie]

If I understand this correctly, when you switch the PC display to the TV, you loose the audio to the AVR? If you leave both the TV and the projector turned on, do you get an image on both displays? You need to have both HDMI ports on the graphics card active as you need to have audio sent over both HDMI ports so that the video goes to the TV from port 1 and the audio goes to the AVR from port 2. Is there a computer display setting that allows you to have the same image sent to both HDMI ports at the same time? You can not just switch from one to the other, as that seems to be deactivating the unused port. You might be better off asking in a computer forum (specific to your make of graphics card) whether it can work that way.

If you can get the same image to both the TV and the projector, then both ports should also carry audio (or at least both ports should appear as audio options under Playback Devices). The AVR should not care whether the projector is turned on or not once you have the audio working. If you can't get both displays active, then you may need some extra cable or components to get the audio to the AVR when using the TV. An HDMI splitter could take the signal from the graphics card and feed it to both the TV and AVR. If the TV speakers produce sound, you could also use an optical cable and connect the optical out from the TV to the AVR. If your computer has a coaxial audio connection you could also use that to feed audio to the AVR.

 

[sgtkahuna]

If I understand this correctly, when you switch the PC display to the TV, you loose the audio to the AVR? If you leave both the TV and the projector turned on, do you get an image on both displays? You need to have both HDMI ports on the graphics card active as you need to have audio sent over both HDMI ports so that the video goes to the TV from port 1 and the audio goes to the AVR from port 2. Is there a computer display setting that allows you to have the same image sent to both HDMI ports at the same time? You can not just switch from one to the other, as that seems to be deactivating the unused port. You might be better off asking in a computer forum (specific to your make of graphics card) whether it can work that way.

If you can get the same image to both the TV and the projector, then both ports should also carry audio (or at least both ports should appear as audio options under Playback Devices). The AVR should not care whether the projector is turned on or not once you have the audio working. If you can't get both displays active, then you may need some extra cable or components to get the audio to the AVR when using the TV. An HDMI splitter could take the signal from the graphics card and feed it to both the TV and AVR. If the TV speakers produce sound, you could also use an optical cable and connect the optical out from the TV to the AVR. If your computer has a coaxial audio connection you could also use that to feed audio to the AVR.

If I understand this correctly, when you switch the PC display to the TV, you loose the audio to the AVR?

Yes, but I also don't get the AVR signal in the PC display. I only get the AVR signal when I switch from the PC display or TV display to the projector display.

You need to have both HDMI ports on the graphics card active

If I move the projector HDMI cable from the AVR out to the graphics card. What do I connect in the HDMI out of the AVR then?

If you leave both the TV and the projector turned on, do you get an image on both displays?

Yes, but I have to go to Display settings, figure out which is which, and set them to duplicate. (every time) sometimes it causes issues because the TV is 4K and the projector is 1080p so duplicating is not ideal.

I have tried a HDMI splitter once in the past but it was not able to display 4K at 60hz, what about the digital audio cable? I saw the AVR has that port and my motherboard PC has it too.

 

[Eppie]

If the display resolutions do not match then duplicate displays could be an issue. Have you also tried setting it up as a dual monitor system? TV or PC monitor on display 1 and projector on display 2. Windows should feed the same audio to both displays (you can not have different audio going to two different displays). I would check some computer forums for this issue.

If that fails, the digital audio cable from the PC is probably the easiest (and least expensive) solution to try.

 

[sgtkahuna]

If the display resolutions do not match then duplicate displays could be an issue. Have you also tried setting it up as a dual monitor system? TV or PC monitor on display 1 and projector on display 2. Windows should feed the same audio to both displays (you can not have different audio going to two different displays). I would check some computer forums for this issue.

If that fails, the digital audio cable from the PC is probably the easiest (and least expensive) solution to try.

I bought a cheap optical audio cable just for the test, but doesn't seem to work, I connected one end in the motherboard PC, and the other end here in the receiver:

I'm selected TV nad the other sources in the remote but the Sony AVR doesn't show up in the speaker devices on the PC

 

[sgtkahuna]

Disregard! It was my fault the Digital output was disabled in the device settings! now its working

 

[sgtkahuna]

$600 is not a lot for both tower speakers and a sub.

My advice would be to buy a couple of these Monoprice Encore towers while they are on sale. Their bass output and extension are very good, and you will need need a subwoofer with them. Here is a review.

I own the Encore T6 towers 3 of them I'm my bedroom setup @shadyJ is spot on. With your budget they aren't going to be topped for quality they are VERY good for the money

Also he is right about the bass in a smaller room you can get by without a sub easy. I'm running mine full range and they sound great

@shadyJ @Danzilla31

Hi guys, sorry for the late update. I was trying to figure out the source problem which has been solved.

I haven't been able to use the speakers as much as I'd like to yet, but I have a few questions so far.

1. The first thing I did was follow the calibration steps with the mic provided, after that I played a random episode I noticed a lack of volume even at 70 which is the max the STR provides, I noticed that changing the mode to 2CH ST with the remote would make it slightly louder, changing the player from MPH-C to VLC also did improve the volume, it just happens with some movies, music is pretty Loud! (I use Winamp)

2. I'm not sure why any other mode than 2CH ST. has this type of loud white noise when nothing is playing or a quiet scene is playing, it's very distracting so I end up using 2CH ST. mode only.

3. I wonder, did I lose the sound calibration by using these modes?

4. I would also like to know if I'm pushing the speakers too much to their limit. the woofer moves a lot in some scenes and I'm afraid of breaking it.

5. If I buy a dedicated sub in the future, will the STR load off some pressure of the tower speakers for the sub frequencies? the speakers do have some good bass but I'd like to shake the room even more, what's a good suggestion of a sub for these speakers? (budget $700)

Those are the questions I have so far, I hope you guys can reply.

Thanks in advance!

 

[shadyJ]

@shadyJ @Danzilla31
1. The first thing I did was follow the calibration steps with the mic provided, after that I played a random episode I noticed a lack of volume even at 70 which is the max the STR provides, I noticed that changing the mode to 2CH ST with the remote would make it slightly louder, changing the player from MPH-C to VLC also did improve the volume, it just happens with some movies, music is pretty Loud! (I use Winamp)

2. I'm not sure why any other mode than 2CH ST. has this type of loud white noise when nothing is playing or a quiet scene is playing, it's very distracting so I end up using 2CH ST. mode only.

3. I wonder, did I lose the sound calibration by using these modes?

4. I would also like to know if I'm pushing the speakers too much to their limit. the woofer moves a lot in some scenes and I'm afraid of breaking it.

5. If I buy a dedicated sub in the future, will the STR load off some pressure of the tower speakers for the sub frequencies? the speakers do have some good bass but I'd like to shake the room even more, what's a good suggestion of a sub for these speakers? (budget $700)

Sony doesn't make the most sophisticated AVRs, so I doubt that anyone could tell you the idiosyncracies of that particular unit. I can tell you that there is no way I would use its automated calibration. If I were you, I would just turn off any calibration. I would only use the system in 2-channel stereo mode. There is no sense in using it in any other mode since you only have two speakers anyway. It's possible that the AVR's processing of other modes is raising the noise floor of the system, but the 2-channel stereo mode would have less processing.

You aren't endangering the speakers, so don't worry about breaking the woofers. You would need more wattage than what that Sony AVR can output to blow those woofers.

If you buy a dedicated sub, yes, it would take some strain off the speakers. Better yet, it would take a strain off the Sony amplifier. For a sub in the $700 range, the Monoprice Monolith M-10 is pretty good. However, up your budget by $50, and you can get the Hsu VTF-2 mk5 which is a killer for the price.

 

[sgtkahuna]

Sony doesn't make the most sophisticated AVRs, so I doubt that anyone could tell you the idiosyncracies of that particular unit. I can tell you that there is no way I would use its automated calibration. If I were you, I would just turn off any calibration. I would only use the system in 2-channel stereo mode. There is no sense in using it in any other mode since you only have two speakers anyway. It's possible that the AVR's processing of other modes is raising the noise floor of the system, but the 2-channel stereo mode would have less processing.

You aren't endangering the speakers, so don't worry about breaking the woofers. You would need more wattage than what that Sony AVR can output to blow those woofers.

If you buy a dedicated sub, yes, it would take some strain off the speakers. Better yet, it would take a strain off the Sony amplifier. For a sub in the $700 range, the Monoprice Monolith M-10 is pretty good. However, up your budget by $50, and you can get the Hsu VTF-2 mk5 which is a killer for the price.

Thanks for the info, does the 2CH Stereo mode cancels any previous calibration? or I should find to delete the calibration?

 

[lovinthehd]

I'm with shadyJ on the DCAC setup in a Sony avr, I'd just cancel it out (reset the unit is probably easiest). I doubt a particular sound mode would cancel the calibration, except perhaps a direct/pure direct type mode.

 

[sgtkahuna]

I'm with shadyJ on the DCAC setup in a Sony avr, I'd just cancel it out (reset the unit is probably easiest). I doubt a particular sound mode would cancel the calibration, except perhaps a direct/pure direct type mode.

I guess this should do it?



Do I have to configure this distance?

 

[lovinthehd]

I guess this should do it?

View attachment 57673

Do I have to configure this distance?

View attachment 57674

LOL that does look easier (but might have to do that per input).

Are the speakers not quite symmetrical? One placed in a corner or something? Shouldn't be particularly important other than from a balance perspective in 2ch, tho.

 

[sgtkahuna]

LOL that does look easier (but might have to do that per input).

I'm only able to see that screen with the projector, meaning I'm not able to change that setting in the other devices (TV is using digital audio) and Bluetooth well it doesn't have any screen.

Please let me know about the second photo the distance thing.

 

[lovinthehd]

I'm only able to see that screen with the projector, meaning I'm not able to change that setting in the other devices (TV is using digital audio) and Bluetooth well it doesn't have any screen.

Please let me know about the second photo the distance thing.

I added it a bit afterwards.....

 

[sgtkahuna]

Are the speakers not quite symmetrical? One placed in a corner or something? Shouldn't be particularly important other than from a balance perspective in 2ch, tho.

They both are placed next to the side walls, they look symmetrical to me.

I care a lot about balance perspective it's an issue I had with my previous speakers.

 

[lovinthehd]

They both are placed next to the side walls, they look symmetrical to me.

I care a lot about balance perspective it's an issue I had with my previous speakers.

Then set the distance and levels equal if everything is nice and symmetric. DCAC may have set them different for an acoustic reason like I asked about...

 

[sgtkahuna]

Then set the distance and levels equal if everything is nice and symmetric. DCAC may have set them different for an acoustic reason like I asked about...

Thanks, I went to the manual guide and found out how to reset the device. So it affects all the outputs, for my peace of mind.

Although I noticed it now "detects" a center and surround speaker even when I don't have any.

I measured from speaker A to Speaker B and the distance is about 9ft'10 which somehow matches what the AVR suggested. Not sure how?

 

[Danzilla31]

S

@shadyJ @Danzilla31

Hi guys, sorry for the late update. I was trying to figure out the source problem which has been solved.

I haven't been able to use the speakers as much as I'd like to yet, but I have a few questions so far.

1. The first thing I did was follow the calibration steps with the mic provided, after that I played a random episode I noticed a lack of volume even at 70 which is the max the STR provides, I noticed that changing the mode to 2CH ST with the remote would make it slightly louder, changing the player from MPH-C to VLC also did improve the volume, it just happens with some movies, music is pretty Loud! (I use Winamp)

2. I'm not sure why any other mode than 2CH ST. has this type of loud white noise when nothing is playing or a quiet scene is playing, it's very distracting so I end up using 2CH ST. mode only.

3. I wonder, did I lose the sound calibration by using these modes?

4. I would also like to know if I'm pushing the speakers too much to their limit. the woofer moves a lot in some scenes and I'm afraid of breaking it.

5. If I buy a dedicated sub in the future, will the STR load off some pressure of the tower speakers for the sub frequencies? the speakers do have some good bass but I'd like to shake the room even more, what's a good suggestion of a sub for these speakers? (budget $700)

Those are the questions I have so far, I hope you guys can reply.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 57672

Sorry I've been meaning to reply just busy at work! Everything @shadyJ just said is spot on!!! I've gotta get back on the floor I'll check back in later!

 

[lovinthehd]

Thanks, I went to the manual guide and found out how to reset the device. So it affects all the outputs, for my peace of mind.

Although I noticed it now "detects" a center and surround speaker even when I don't have any.

View attachment 57675

I measured from speaker A to Speaker B and the distance is about 9ft'10 which somehow matches what the AVR suggested. Not sure how?

View attachment 57676

Many avrs start with a default like that, it didn't "detect" anything unless you used the mic. You can turn off speakers/channels not in use I'd think.

 

[sgtkahuna]

Many avrs start with a default like that, it didn't "detect" anything unless you used the mic. You can turn off speakers/channels not in use I'd think.

I don't see an option to disable the other channels but I'm using the 2CH ST.