First build, I'm new into hi-fi audio looking for advice.

lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Another thought is something like the JBL 590 towers that have been going on sale for excellent prices with occasional sales but haven't checked lately, but have gone for as little as $800 a pair delivered, which is very good IMO (I got a pair at $900 a fair while back plus some others in the series for disclosure....).
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
@sgtkahuna fwiw shadyj is this site's speaker/sub reviewer and has hands on experience with a lot of gear. His advice is gold (gold, Jerrry, gold! !). Some of the other avrs with setup/room eq programs can eq the sub along with setting up level/delays, Sony's DCAC isn't as involved as something like Audyssey in a few brands. Eq'g of lower bass is helpful particularly with the way typical smaller rooms (like in homes vs large venues) works.
Thanks I had no idea! I feel so lost since I don't know anyone IRL who knows about these topics, thankfully I received plenty of responses in this forum so I don't feel too lost anymore.

Do you know what would happen with my STR receiver if I'd go with j_garcia suggestion of Sony SSCS5 and a SVS PB1000 Pro for example?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks I had no idea! I feel so lost since I don't know anyone IRL who knows about these topics, thankfully I received plenty of responses in this forum so I don't feel too lost anymore.

Do you know what would happen with my STR receiver if I'd go with j_garcia suggestion of Sony SSCS5 and a SVS PB1000 Pro for example?
Don't get too worked up about particular combos of components....that's the nice thing about components, they tend to work with a variety of gear easily enough. I have an old Sony avr and it's not bad but do prefer my more modern Denon and Onkyo avrs.

I've seen some good comments about the Sony SSCS5 but they just look a bit limited to me, think you'd be happier with a larger speaker (and more efficiency never hurts, the JBLs I mentioned are a fair bit more sensitive than the Encores mentioned). With a good sub it's going to be a minimal issue, tho.
 
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shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
Thanks for explaining, this is the only place where I could put them, is not near close to the wall, below the desk is gonna be an empty space and that party speaker will be gone, will this position cause problems? I believe they would have to be a bit angled I tried to make a perspective but failed miserably.
If you are sitting in the middle of the speakers, that will create a strange soundstage and have a headphone-like effect. You really want to have the speakers in front of you, like so:
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
Don't get too worked up about particular combos of components....that's the nice thing about components, they tend to work with a variety of gear easily enough. I have an old Sony avr and it's not bad but do prefer my more modern Denon and Onkyo avrs.

I've seen some good comments about the Sony SSCS5 but they just look a bit limited to me, think you'd be happier with a larger speaker (and more efficiency never hurts, the JBLs I mentioned are a fair bit more sensitive than the Encores mentioned). With a good sub it's going to be a minimal issue, tho.
But what's that thing about the sub calibration? does that mean that having SSCS5 bookshelves with a sub and this STR will make the sub sound bad?
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
If you are sitting in the middle of the speakers, that will create a strange soundstage and have a headphone-like effect. You really want to have the speakers in front of you, like so:
Something like this would be the layout, but have in mind there's empty space below the desk, I'm not sure if all that spaces cause something to the rear port thing you said. This is the space below the desk I'm talking about: https://prnt.sc/IQxQPnf0WhBE

stereo-speaker-placement-cropped.jpg
 
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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
But what's that thing about the sub calibration? does that mean that having SSCS5 bookshelves with a sub and this STR will make the sub sound bad?
Sub calibration still needs to be helped along by basic good setup/placement of the sub to begin with....but, no don't think DCAC will make it sound bad, just won't do as good a job as some other gear these days can. I'd probably override any recommended crossover and start with 80, and not use any suggestion of not using bass management (forget if Sony calls it setting to large or not, but setting to large vs small means to not use bass management/large or use bass management/small). You get better use of your sub with bass management and I'd start with a crossover of 80 and experiment above and below that from there with the Sony to suit your taste.
 
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Danzilla31

Audioholic Spartan
Something like this would be the layout, but have in mind there's empty space below the desk, I'm not sure if all that spaces cause something to the rear port thing you said. This is the space below the desk I'm talking about: https://prnt.sc/IQxQPnf0WhBE

View attachment 56873
I own the Encore T6 towers 3 of them I'm my bedroom setup @shadyJ is spot on. With your budget they aren't going to be topped for quality they are VERY good for the money

Also he is right about the bass in a smaller room you can get by without a sub easy. I'm running mine full range and they sound great
 
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Danzilla31

Audioholic Spartan
Hi,

I purchased the Sony STRDH590 today, my room is about 1500 cubic feet. I'm looking for a 2.1 configuration but I don't know what to get, budget is limited since this is my first time.

I like big powerful sound.

I'm thinking about floor standing speakers

Usecase: For movies only, (110" projector screen)

Attached is a pic of my room.

Can someone help me?

Notes: Can't buy used, can only buy on Amazon.
If you like big powerful sound get the Encore T6's I can tell you without a doubt they get plenty loud and are plenty powerful
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
Hi guys, the Sony SSCS5 is on sale right now for $113 but I decided to go with the T6's hopefully I made the right choice, I know the T6's are superior in every way, I'm just worried about the tactile/powerful bass, if in the future I'd like to get a sub, what would be a good match?

Screenshot_1.jpg


Danzilla31 my room is small in depth and width but is a bit high.

What else do I need to get these running? I don't have any cables or connectors.
 
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shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
Hi guys, the Sony SSCS5 is on sale right now for $113 but I decided to go with the T6's hopefully I made the right choice, I know the T6's are superior in every way, I'm just worried about the tactile/powerful bass, if in the future I'd like to get a sub, what would be a good match?

View attachment 56875

Danzilla31 my room is small in depth and width but is a bit high.

What else do I need to get these running? I don't have any cables or connectors.
Nice! What you need is some speaker cable, of course. I would be looking for some stranded 14AWG cable. You can get that type at pretty much any hardware store or you could get it online. It should not be expensive. For the signal cable, what type of device is the source? A PC? Will you be running just an audio signal to the Sony AVR or will it be HDMI?
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
Nice! What you need is some speaker cable, of course. I would be looking for some stranded 14AWG cable. You can get that type at pretty much any hardware store or you could get it online. It should not be expensive. For the signal cable, what type of device is the source? A PC? Will you be running just an audio signal to the Sony AVR or will it be HDMI?
Yes the source will be a PC, the projector is hooked into the graphics card via HDMI what’s the best way to hook it up into the receiver? My 3.5mm jack is already being used for PC speakers.
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Yes the source will be a PC, the projector is hooked into the graphics card via HDMI what’s the best way to hook it up into the receiver? My 3.5mm jack is already being used for PC speakers.
You want to go HDMI in on the receiver so that it can do any digital processing, particularly if you add a sub or surrounds later. If the graphics card outputs audio and video through HDMI (which it should) connect the graphics card to the receiver via HDMI and then the receiver's HDMI out to the projector. Hopefully the projector cable is long enough to reach the receiver.

Do not use the 3.5mm jack to drive any high quality amps or receivers. It's ok for PC speakers, but the audio on PCs is not very good quality unless you get a dedicated sound card. Best to go digital out from the PC and let your receiver's DAC or a dedicated DAC do the digital to analogue conversion. You could get an external DAC and connect that to a USB port for audio, but why introduce more equipment if HDMI will do the job?
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
You want to go HDMI in on the receiver so that it can do any digital processing, particularly if you add a sub or surrounds later. If the graphics card outputs audio and video through HDMI (which it should) connect the graphics card to the receiver via HDMI and then the receiver's HDMI out to the projector. Hopefully the projector cable is long enough to reach the receiver.

Do not use the 3.5mm jack to drive any high quality amps or receivers. It's ok for PC speakers, but the audio on PCs is not very good quality unless you get a dedicated sound card. Best to go digital out from the PC and let your receiver's DAC or a dedicated DAC do the digital to analogue conversion. You could get an external DAC and connect that to a USB port for audio, but why introduce more equipment if HDMI will do the job?
Thanks I’ll check out the cable and connectors, I’ll update you guys in about 3 months when everything arrives to my country.
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
Nice! What you need is some speaker cable, of course. I would be looking for some stranded 14AWG cable. You can get that type at pretty much any hardware store or you could get it online. It should not be expensive. For the signal cable, what type of device is the source? A PC? Will you be running just an audio signal to the Sony AVR or will it be HDMI?
Does it have to be pure copper? or this one will work well?

Screenshot_2.jpg

Screenshot_4.jpg
 

Attachments

Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Does it have to be pure copper? or this one will work well?

View attachment 56882
View attachment 56883
Please avoid copper clad aluminum. Copper and aluminum in contact with each other can lead to galvanic corrosion. It may be cheaper but can lead to future problems. Yes, it should be pure copper, but it does not have to be low oxygen or oxygen free copper like some cable manufacturers advertise. 14 gauge stranded copper is enough or you can step up to 12 gauge (lower gauge is thicker). The second photo of the pure copper cable is good but what many call "lamp cord" at a hardware store is perfectly fine for speakers. You'll pay a premium for oxygen free but $27 shouldn't break the bank.

EDIT: You might want to add a set of banana plugs for ease of connecting/disconnecting the wires. If the speakers may get moved around, there are locking banana plugs that should not work themselves free.
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
Please avoid copper clad aluminum. Copper and aluminum in contact with each other can lead to galvanic corrosion. It may be cheaper but can lead to future problems. Yes, it should be pure copper, but it does not have to be low oxygen or oxygen free copper like some cable manufacturers advertise. 14 gauge stranded copper is enough or you can step up to 12 gauge (lower gauge is thicker). The second photo of the pure copper cable is good but what many call "lamp cord" at a hardware store is perfectly fine for speakers. You'll pay a premium for oxygen free but $27 shouldn't break the bank.
I see there are two sets of ports, does that mean I have to run double wires?

Screenshot_5.jpg
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
I see there are two sets of ports, does that mean I have to run double wires?

View attachment 56884
No, the upper and lower terminals can be bridged at the speaker and you use a single speaker wire.

Do you have an owner's manual to reference? Most speakers with two sets of terminals are capable of "bi-amping" where you use separate amps to power the woofers and the midrange/tweeters. It is most common for the speakers to come shipped with metal bars or speaker wires that connect the upper and lower terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative). You leave the bars in place and connect the speaker wire to either set of terminals.
 
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sgtkahuna

Junior Audioholic
No, the upper and lower terminals can be bridged at the speaker and you use a single speaker wire.

Do you have an owner's manual to reference? Most speakers with two sets of terminals are capable of "bi-amping" where you use separate amps to power the woofers and the midrange/tweeters. It is most common for the speakers to come shipped with metal bars or speaker wires that connect the upper and lower terminals (positive to positive and negative to negative). You leave the bars in place and connect the speaker wire to either set of terminals.
Got it, thanks!!
 
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