bicycles

[lovinthehd]

Yes quick release. Then I was pushing in and out with the spacers/Axel rod.

What spacers and axle rod? You couldn't get the quick release to tighten? Got a pic?

 

[Dude#1279435]

What spacers and axle rod? You couldn't get the quick release to tighten? Got a pic?

Which the quick release skewer goes through. I call it the axle rod or hub axle. If I tighten the quick release any more the wheel won't move. It still moves from side to side regardless. I call it the spacer but basically the nuts on the ends of the axle rod.

Not the exact but so were on the same page.....

 

[lovinthehd]

Okay that clears it up...it sounds like you could get the quick release tight enough and the problem was the axle bearing adjustment (the nuts at each end are the locking axle nuts I referred to earlier). How are the bearings?

What hub models are they? Try this article for adjustment https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

 

[Dude#1279435]

I'll get back to you on the hub model. The bearings seem fine as far as I can tell. I'm guessing it's the cones that need adjusting.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Does it pay to upgrade the crankset? I have shimano fc m171 and am guessing as the numbers get higher so does the quality?

 

[lovinthehd]

Does it pay to upgrade the crankset? I have shimano fc m171 and am guessing as the numbers get higher so does the quality?

In terms of actual usefulness not so much. As you move up the food chain with Shimano groups (Altus being down from all the mountain groups I've generally used like Deore, LX, SLX, XT, XTR ) you get generally lighter weight, perhaps better bearings, better machining, overall durability and in your case possibly replaceable chainrings....the info I just looked at indicates your chainrings are riveted in place so you can't replace individual chainrings (I always had replaceable chainrings).

This article gives you a flavor for how the Shimano hierarchy goes currently https://minimotors.sg/blog/shimano-mountain-bike-groupset-hierarchy-all-you-need-to-know-about-beginners-guide/

 

[Dude#1279435]

In terms of actual usefulness not so much. As you move up the food chain with Shimano groups (Altus being down from all the mountain groups I've generally used like Deore, LX, SLX, XT, XTR ) you get generally lighter weight, perhaps better bearings, better machining, overall durability and in your case possibly replaceable chainrings....the info I just looked at indicates your chainrings are riveted in place so you can't replace individual chainrings (I always had replaceable chainrings).

This article gives you a flavor for how the Shimano hierarchy goes currently https://minimotors.sg/blog/shimano-mountain-bike-groupset-hierarchy-all-you-need-to-know-about-beginners-guide/

I believe for commuter it went dura ace>ultegra>105. Not much room for growth with my bike.

I don't understand it but rims are an alex dc25 dbl wall alloy, 32h, formula alloy hub with qr.

It will take a while but will get the crank and rear derailleur and cassette ordered. Or probably another tire altogether too with the cassette.

 

[lovinthehd]

I believe for commuter it went dura ace>ultegra>105. Not much room for growth with my bike.

I don't understand it but rims are an alex dc25 dbl wall alloy, 32h, formula alloy hub with qr.

It will take a while but will get the crank and rear derailleur and cassette ordered. Or probably another tire altogether too with the cassette.

They never really had a commuter gruppo, just road vs mountain gruppos and bikes that were in the middle sometimes used components from both sides. For road their article for hierarchy https://minimotors.sg/blog/shimano-road-bike-groupset/.

What is the question about the rims? A wheel can be composed of various rims, spokes and hubsets....

 

[Dude#1279435]

They never really had a commuter gruppo, just road vs mountain gruppos and bikes that were in the middle sometimes used components from both sides. For road their article for hierarchy https://minimotors.sg/blog/shimano-road-bike-groupset/.

What is the question about the rims? A wheel can be composed of various rims, spokes and hubsets....

Not sure there's a question. I'll look for a 28 x 32 rim.

 

[lovinthehd]

Ah, you're trying to get a certain wheel with rim width for fatter tires.....maybe a guide like this will help https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/tire-size-chart-for-bicycle-rim.html

The rim is just the metal hoop the tire fits into. A rim with spokes and a hub can be a wheel but a wheel isn't the same thing as a rim. Unfortunately just swapping out rims isn't an easy job and could well require replacement of spokes as well.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Ah, you're trying to get a certain wheel with rim width for fatter tires.....maybe a guide like this will help https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/tire-size-chart-for-bicycle-rim.html

The rim is just the metal hoop the tire fits into. A rim with spokes and a hub can be a wheel but a wheel isn't the same thing as a rim. Unfortunately just swapping out rims isn't an easy job and could well require replacement of spokes as well.

Yeah I run a 28 tire but not sure if the rim is a 28" or something a little smaller. The 32mm width I understand on the rim.

 

[lovinthehd]

Yeah I run a 28 tire but not sure if the rim is a 28" or something a little smaller. The 32mm width I understand on the rim.

Is the Alex rim 32mm in width on the outside? Whats the interior width? I tried searching the Alex site but not a current product and their search function wouldn't work (with my browser at least).

 

[Dude#1279435]

Is the Alex rim 32mm in width on the outside? Whats the interior width? I tried searching the Alex site but not a current product and their search function wouldn't work (with my browser at least).

My bad. I have 700x32 tires. I'll get back to you on the width.

 

[Dude#1279435]

The front rim says 622x16.

 

[lovinthehd]

The front rim says 622x16.

622mm so 700C tires, 16mm is the interior width for use with that chart (which doesn't even cover that so makes me wonder a bit about the chart now that I look at actual numbers (I have a spare set of rims of that diameter with less than 15mm interior width I just measured) so yeah I wouldn't want too wide a tire on that. Little different from your fat bike, eh?

 

[Dude#1279435]

622mm so 700C tires, 16mm is the interior width for use with that chart (which doesn't even cover that so makes me wonder a bit about the chart now that I look at actual numbers (I have a spare set of rims of that diameter with less than 15mm interior width I just measured) so yeah I wouldn't want too wide a tire on that. Little different from your fat bike, eh?

700x35 is what I'm using for a tire. I think the flat was due to over inflating. Keeping it about.70psi. So the "x16" width is always measured from the inside???

 

[lovinthehd]

700x35 is what I'm using for a tire. I think the flat was due to over inflating. Keeping it about.70psi. So the "x16" width is always measured from the inside???

I'm guessing that's what it refers to.....seems about right for a typical road tire like a 23-25 mm, 35 mm may be pushing the limit for a narrow rim. What's the external width of the rim? I have a friend who used to study all the various tires and effects of differing rim widths, effects of inflation, etc....even had a website for a while dedicated to it, too. While he was more geared towards mountain bikes then but he's also a big road biker....think I'll ask him what he thinks.

Here's another reference about various tire sizes and rim designations https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

70psi sounds on the high side for a 35mm tire, what is the max inflation pressure indicated on the tire?

Did you ever look at the tubes to see how they were blowing? You aren't tubeless, are you?

 

[Dude#1279435]

I'm guessing that's what it refers to.....seems about right for a typical road tire like a 23-25 mm, 35 mm may be pushing the limit for a narrow rim. What's the external width of the rim? I have a friend who used to study all the various tires and effects of differing rim widths, effects of inflation, etc....even had a website for a while dedicated to it, too. While he was more geared towards mountain bikes then but he's also a big road biker....think I'll ask him what he thinks.

Here's another reference about various tire sizes and rim designations https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

70psi sounds on the high side for a 35mm tire, what is the max inflation pressure indicated on the tire?

Did you ever look at the tubes to see how they were blowing? You aren't tubeless, are you?

The front rim (622x16) is about 22mm on the outside. The rear about 25mm. The rear is an xrims y2000. I haven't measured the inside, but a search said 622x20.

According to the link I'm pushing max with the 700x35. The x32 is a little more ideal.

75psi max on the tire. I believe this tube is 26xsomething. I haven't looked at the flat tubes yet.

 

[lovinthehd]

The front rim (622x16) is about 22mm on the outside. The rear about 25mm. The rear is an xrims y2000. I haven't measured the inside, but a search said 622x20.

According to the link I'm pushing max with the 700x35. The x32 is a little more ideal.

75psi max on the tire. I believe this tube is 26xsomething. I haven't looked at the flat tubes yet.

Generally you can use a variety of tube "sizes" in various similar diameter wheels. Just somewhat depends how thin it might stretch it, altho most will fit fine (so a 26" tube could be a stretch for a fat 29"). Knowing more what happens when you flat (at the moment) might help....but try lowering pressure to 60 and see if that helps....running at max tire pressure some think is a rolling advantage but its really not, you want the tire to stay in contact with the ground as much as possible, and an overinflated tire could have trouble following road contours as well as give a harsher than necessary ride.

 

[Dude#1279435]

Generally you can use a variety of tube "sizes" in various similar diameter wheels. Just somewhat depends how thin it might stretch it, altho most will fit fine (so a 26" tube could be a stretch for a fat 29"). Knowing more what happens when you flat (at the moment) might help....but try lowering pressure to 60 and see if that helps....running at max tire pressure some think is a rolling advantage but its really not, you want the tire to stay in contact with the ground as much as possible, and an overinflated tire could have trouble following road contours as well as give a harsher than necessary ride.

I was confused when you said cogs? I assumed I'd just buy a new cassette? That and chain, crankset, rear derailleur. Anything else you think I need replacing?