Tonearm Lifter

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I tend to think this vintage Thorens turntable does not have a lot of mileage on it. The front panel where the switches are shows no wear and tear. Speed, power and model stenciling are very sharp. Just about every youtube where they talk about this model shows wear in this area. I wonder if this unit has been in some closet or in storage for the past 45 years. The dust cover has heinous scratches and some cracks. So they obviously stacked stuff on it. The seller made the condition of the dust cover very clear, so it was not a surprise. It also came with a perfect condition original user manual.
 
I am starting to like the dust cover. I shored up the cracks at both back hinges.
 
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What? That's exactly why I bought the scale.

I meant that if the weight doesn't show increments, there's no way to be certain of the tracking weight but with a scale, the increments on the weight don't need to be used, at all. With a weight that has the dial, it's close but the scale leads to more accurate adjustment. While the range of weight isn't large, it's still good to get it right.
 
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I tend to think this vintage Thorens turntable does not have a lot of mileage on it. The front panel where the switches are shows no wear and tear. Speed, power and model stenciling are very sharp. Just about every youtube where they talk about this model shows wear in this area. I wonder if this unit has been in some closet or in storage for the past 45 years. The dust cover has heinous scratches and some cracks. So they obviously stacked stuff on it. The seller made the condition of the dust cover very clear, so it was not a surprise. It also came with a perfect condition original user manual.

Automotive plastic polishes do a great job with scratched dust covers and even deeper ones can be blended pretty well.
 
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I meant that if the weight doesn't show increments, there's no way to be certain of the tracking weight but with a scale, the increments on the weight don't need to be used, at all. With a weight that has the dial, it's close but the scale leads to more accurate adjustment. While the range of weight isn't large, it's still good to get it right.
Oh ok. @TLS Guy informed me that the weight on the side adjusts the tracking weight. You slide the weight fore and aft over those indentations. I had assumed it was the back weight as you normally see on any given tonearm.
Screenshot 2026-04-25 093247.png
 
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Automotive plastic polishes do a great job with scratched dust covers and even deeper ones can be blended pretty well.
I imagine it would take some wet sanding and elbow grease. Not sure I want to do that, since it has other issues. It is very square though. Opens and closes nice. The cracks will not get worse now that I shored things up in back. I think it gives it vintage character. It only looks likes it's been through some battles when you look at it closely since it's not a clear cover. You open it up and you see a darn-near pristine machine.
 
I imagine it would take some wet sanding and elbow grease. Not sure I want to do that, since it has other issues. It is very square though. Opens and closes nice. The cracks will not get worse now that I shored things up in back. I think it gives it vintage character. It only looks likes it's been through some battles when you look at it closely since it's not a clear cover. You open it up and you see a darn-near pristine machine.

Look on YouTube for polishing materials and techniques- many polishes and compounds are made for plastics and other materials- the plastics distributors I linked to show some of them on their sites and it's not always necessary to wet sand, although that is one way. Use a sanding block to revent unevenness. Low speed polisher with a foam disc would be another way. Don't use high RPM.

I was watching a FB Marketplace ad for one of these and from the circular scratches, it was clear that it had traveled with the platter in place. Well, until it wasn't.
 
Oh ok. @TLS Guy informed me that the weight on the side adjusts the tracking weight. You slide the weight fore and aft over those indentations. I had assumed it was the back weight as you normally see on any given tonearm.
View attachment 79409

The weight behind the pivot on the tonearm is for tracking force, the smaller one on the arm at the right is for anti-skate.
 
I imagine it would take some wet sanding and elbow grease. Not sure I want to do that, since it has other issues. It is very square though. Opens and closes nice. The cracks will not get worse now that I shored things up in back. I think it gives it vintage character. It only looks likes it's been through some battles when you look at it closely since it's not a clear cover. You open it up and you see a darn-near pristine machine.

Small polishers are available and they work really well. I bought one from Harbor Freight and it comes with a variety of pads and discs for attaching various abrasives, including a foam pad and sheep's skin. I used mine to polish my tail lights and it worked great. Mine is a brand called 'Earthquake', but they discontinued it- I have seen others that were the same, with different branding. Mine has slightly different batteries from the ones in the photo, but if you have a smaller battery powered drill, you can use similar pads.

 
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Small oplishers are available and they work really well. I bought one from Harbor Freight and it comes with a variety of pads and discs for attaching various abrasives, including a foam pad and sheep's skin. I used mine to polish my tail lights and it worked great. Mine is a brand called 'Earthquake', but they discontinued it- I have seen others that were the same, with different branding. Mine has slightly different batteries from the ones in the photo, but if you have a smaller battery powered drill, you can use similar pads.

It's not a huge priority to fix up the cover. I mean it's possible I could someday, but I'm happy with it for now.
 
The weight behind the pivot on the tonearm is for tracking force, the smaller one on the arm at the right is for anti-skate.
I don't think so. The back weight is normally on a coarse threaded shaft and rotates to adjust. I see no threads on the shaft and the rear weight has a set screw. The lower weight has the adjusting marks. Maybe the two weights work together for coarse and fine adjustment?

The rod on top looks to be for anti-skating. Notice the series of grooves on the upper thin rod. Usually there is a weight on a thin wire and the wire hooks over the rod. The position in the grooves determines the anti-skating force. If that's the case, I hope that the small weight and wire are included. TLS Guy can give us the low down.
 
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I don't think so. The back weight is normally on a coarse threaded shaft and rotates to adjust. I see no threads on the shaft and the rear weight has a set screw. The lower weight has the adjusting marks. Maybe the two weights work together for coarse and fine adjustment?

The rod on top looks to be for anti-skating. Notice the series of grooves on the upper thin rod. Usually there is a weight on a thin wire and the wire hooks over the rod. The position in the grooves determines the anti-skating force. If that's the case, I hope that the small weight and wire are included. TLS Guy can give us the low down.
There is a hanging weight hooked on the top shaft. "You are correct sir, yes!" (to be read as Phil Hartman doing his Ed McMahon impression).

Screenshot 2026-04-25 183444.png
 
Inexperienced with an SME Series II tonearm? That would be a yes.
Was thinking tonearms of such design generally, they're not the only ones. Hopefully you find something extra in this vinyl playback tweaking that isn't too likely to my mind!
 
Was thinking tonearms of such design generally, they're not the only ones. Hopefully you find something extra in this vinyl playback tweaking that isn't too likely to my mind!
I know how to adjust and make operational a conventional tonearm. I have had audio my entire life. Why would you rip the snot out if me because of one I am not familiar with? TLS Guy was super generous to offer get it up to snuff.
 
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