Tired of EP2500. Need replacement ideas.

mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
this will be my last post in this thread...

try one single channel.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
ATI AT1802 amp

Another option: a practically brand new ATI AT1802 amp w/ 7 yrs warranty that you can probably get for $625 (make offer):

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampsmult&1272657011

Note that a Condition of "10/10" means that it looks virtually brand new with abosolutely no scratches.

And in case you have never heard of ATI (Amplifier Technologies, Inc.), they make amps for Lexicon, JBL, Earthquake Sound, & Outlaw Audio.

AT1802 spec: 180W RMS x 2Ch @ 8 ohms/ 270W RMS x 2Ch @ 4 ohms
 
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ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Isn't that a girl amp?:eek::D
Another option: a practically brand new ATI AT1802 amp w/ 7 yrs warranty that you can probably get for $625 (make offer):

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampsmult&1272657011

Note that a Condition of "10/10" means that it looks virtually brand new with abosolutely no scratches.

And in case you have never heard of ATI (Amplifier Technologies, Inc.), they make amps for Lexicon, JBL, Earthquake Sound, & Outlaw Audio.

AT1802 spec: 180W RMS x 2Ch @ 8 ohms/ 270W RMS x 2Ch @ 4 ohms
 
T2T

T2T

Senior Audioholic
this will be my last post in this thread...

try one single channel.
You'll be back, I'm sure. This whole process is kind of like a train wreck. You want to stay away and keep from looking, but can't. ;)
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Isn't that a girl amp?:eek::D
WHY YOU...........:D

In terms of Weight, no.

The Shipping Weight is 96lbs, which I'm sure weighs more than the OP's current amp, the Emotiva amps, The Yamaha amps, and most of your amps combined.:D:eek::D

In terms of looks, possibly.:D

You need to get the extra 2 large front steel handles for the amp. Then it looks 100% manly.:cool:
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
You are, in fact, coming off as dickish. I understand it is not your intention. And you are stating things that have already been said, why? I now realize, with the help of many more knowledgeable people's advice, that I need to fix a few things before wanting to replace an amp. I have a hard time understanding what your post did to help solve the problem or provide any type of solution. It has pop'ed a breaker, it does overheat and I do (and will continue) to push this amp to its limits without changing back to a loud *** fan. Perhaps when I move out of my tiny room and give this amp some space I will reinstall a more powerful fan.
Here is what I have learned so far from this thread.
-Move my amp off the carpet
-Check wiring from amp to subwoofer inside and out to make sure nothing it touching
-EP2500 has limits and Emotiva mono is super sexy IRL.
I think there is a wider lesson as this unfolds. You have a small room and are heating up an amp the can provide a huge amount of power.

The lesson is that a sealed sub is a very poor way of producing high spls. It is pure brute force and your story highlights the intellectual bankruptcy behind such an approach.

I know WmAx will vigorously attack this opinion, but I believe it to be valid and defend it.

The problem is I have not heard a QB4 vented sub, that can come close to realistic reproduction. That means options are slim. In my view it means TL or horn, and may be IB if you have the space.

BTW, Matt 34 has a horn loaded sub, that will shake the floor with less than a handful of watts. I guarantee it would solve your heating problem.

So stick to the adage, do speakers have to be large: - no but it really, really helps, especially subs.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
The lesson is that a sealed sub is a very poor way of producing high spls. It is pure brute force and your story highlights the intellectual bankruptcy behind such an approach.

I know WmAx will vigorously attack this opinion, but I believe it to be valid and defend it.
As someone who is making a DIY sealed high wattage sub with the help and input of several on this forum, I appreciate WmAx's support on my project, but must point out that it wasn't until I was stubborn about needing compact size and using the prebuilt cabinets from PE that WmAx took that path.

I really agree with you and don't like the idea of using brute force to get the job done, but given my constraints, it does seem to be the best solution.
The JL Audio Fathom is the obvious poster-boy for this approach.
 
jeffsg4mac

jeffsg4mac

Republican Poster Boy
This is currently how I have my EP2500. It is running in stereo driving two Titanics that are 4 ohms. I have NEVER even felt it get warm to the touch and I have the fan mod. As Chris and others have stated, there is nothing wrong with the EP2500. Not many amps out there that will drive 2ohms in bridged mode and not get hot or just melt down completely.

 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
Hey wait a minute...my Rotel weighs 136lbs.

It came from the factory at 75lbs but I put 61lbs of rocks in it.
WHY YOU...........:D

In terms of Weight, no.

The Shipping Weight is 96lbs, which I'm sure weighs more than the OP's current amp, the Emotiva amps, The Yamaha amps, and most of your amps combined.:D:eek::D

In terms of looks, possibly.:D

You need to get the extra 2 large front steel handles for the amp. Then it looks 100% manly.:cool:
 
S

Slare

Audiophyte
Ok, now I feel fine being an outright ****. You have no idea about my level of knowledge and choose to be insulting while still not acknowledging your mistake.

You haven't learned anything from this thread and are apparently either too stupid or too arrogant to process you are using the amplifier wrong. Nothing will fix that.

But by all means, go right ahead and continue to throw money and blame at your square peg round hole problem. It's not going to bother me one bit and whenever you finally do get things fixed having wasted your time and money... you can remember "the ****" that told you the facts.

You are, in fact, coming off as dickish. I understand it is not your intention. And you are stating things that have already been said, why? I now realize, with the help of many more knowledgeable people's advice, that I need to fix a few things before wanting to replace an amp. I have a hard time understanding what your post did to help solve the problem or provide any type of solution. It has pop'ed a breaker, it does overheat and I do (and will continue) to push this amp to its limits without changing back to a loud *** fan. Perhaps when I move out of my tiny room and give this amp some space I will reinstall a more powerful fan.
Here is what I have learned so far from this thread.
-Move my amp off the carpet
-Check wiring from amp to subwoofer inside and out to make sure nothing it touching
-EP2500 has limits and Emotiva mono is super sexy IRL.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I doubt getting it off the carpet will make much difference, if any. That would be relevant with a convection-cooled home audio amp, but not an amp with forced-air cooling. Amps like these should be able to comfortably operate sandwiched in a rack with other amps above and below (as amp racks are often configured). And adjacent amps would be generating heat, unlike carpet.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
Why do you think most amps have feet? Also, in a rack, amps are supposed to have an open space above and below.
 
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Seth=L

Seth=L

Audioholic Overlord
Hey wait a minute...my Rotel weighs 136lbs.

It came from the factory at 75lbs but I put 61lbs of rocks in it.
I think AcuDefTechGuy's head might have 61 pounds of rocks in it.:D

I think most of us can agree, that weight is not an end all determining factor. Emotiva amplifiers are not efficient compared to modern professional amplifiers.
 
Shock

Shock

Audioholic General
Ok, now I feel fine being an outright ****. You have no idea about my level of knowledge and choose to be insulting while still not acknowledging your mistake.

You haven't learned anything from this thread and are apparently either too stupid or too arrogant to process you are using the amplifier wrong. Nothing will fix that.

But by all means, go right ahead and continue to throw money and blame at your square peg round hole problem. It's not going to bother me one bit and whenever you finally do get things fixed having wasted your time and money... you can remember "the ****" that told you the facts.
You need to calm down. I read his reply to yours and it really didn't have anything insulting in it at all. If you want to reply with something like this I dare say you should find a different A/V forum.

There has been a number of good ideas as to why he's experiencing over heating problems. That's what we're here to do, toss around ideas, not insults.
 
Seth=L

Seth=L

Audioholic Overlord
You need to calm down. I read his reply to yours and it really didn't have anything insulting in it at all. If you want to reply with something like this I dare say you should find a different A/V forum.

There has been a number of good ideas as to why he's experiencing over heating problems. That's what we're here to do, toss around ideas, not insults.
Yeah, but he totally redeems himself with this.

Slare said:
go right ahead and continue to throw money and blame at your square peg round hole problem.
 
J

Josuah

Senior Audioholic
Why do you think most amps have feet? Also, in a rack, amps are supposed to have an open space above and below.
The EP2500 does not have any ventilation on its top or bottom. It uses forced air front-back. It does not require any space above or below and in a rack there would not be any above or below.

I have mine configured in stereo mode, and each channel is theoretically about 1.5 ohms but likely a bit higher. I also have a fan mod.

The lesson is that a sealed sub is a very poor way of producing high spls. It is pure brute force and your story highlights the intellectual bankruptcy behind such an approach.
This only applies to the lower frequencies. A sealed sub with massive excursion and power is the only way to get a room compensating 2nd order roll off allowing you to dig deep and high SPL within a reasonable build size. You cannot accomplish this with a ported/pr subwoofer.

Above the Fs sealed and ported/pr will have the same SPL capability.

As it happens, I was able to get my single EP2500 to clip playing The Dark Knight at -0dB (I have a simulated Linkwitz Transform) so I've ordered a second EP2500. Each EP2500 needs its own 20A circuit.
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
My 2500 is pushed very hard (ask Alex or Andrew) and it is on a 15amp circuit with no space above it, has a fan mod and is pushing a sealed sub. Never even gets warm.



If you look closely, you can see it stuffed under the center ch. a glass shelf sets directly on it and the credenza has a closed back.


The EP2500 does not have any ventilation on its top or bottom. It uses forced air front-back. It does not require any space above or below and in a rack there would not be any above or below.

I have mine configured in stereo mode, and each channel is theoretically about 1.5 ohms but likely a bit higher. I also have a fan mod.



This only applies to the lower frequencies. A sealed sub with massive excursion and power is the only way to get a room compensating 2nd order roll off allowing you to dig deep and high SPL within a reasonable build size. You cannot accomplish this with a ported/pr subwoofer.

Above the Fs sealed and ported/pr will have the same SPL capability.

As it happens, I was able to get my single EP2500 to clip playing The Dark Knight at -0dB (I have a simulated Linkwitz Transform) so I've ordered a second EP2500. Each EP2500 needs its own 20A circuit.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
The EP2500 does not have any ventilation on its top or bottom. It uses forced air front-back. It does not require any space above or below and in a rack there would not be any above or below.

I have mine configured in stereo mode, and each channel is theoretically about 1.5 ohms but likely a bit higher. I also have a fan mod.
I was thinking about my response but it was too late to edit it. If the fan can't cool it sufficiently or is connected to an improper load the way this one is, the amp will run significantly hotter than normal and will try to radiate heat to its surroundings. These have forced air cooling and as long as the path isn't blocked, it should work fine and the need to use all of the available space in a rack is the reason forced air cooling exists. Sorry for the omission.
 

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