The popular Outlaw M2200 mono block power amp

How likely are you to buy this Monoblock?

  • 100%

    Votes: 7 13.7%
  • 50%

    Votes: 11 21.6%
  • 0% - I have no need for any more amps

    Votes: 15 29.4%
  • 0% - I might change amps, but not these amps

    Votes: 3 5.9%
  • 0% - I want to match my amps with Pre-pro and I don’t own an Outlaw Pre-Pro

    Votes: 1 2.0%
  • What is a monoblock???

    Votes: 1 2.0%
  • Already have one or more

    Votes: 13 25.5%

  • Total voters
    51
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
You nailed my interest point exactly: efficiency, size and weight, more friendly to the environment... also flexibility!
I could see a tri-mono design in a 1U chassis (which I think would be thinner than the 2200). Imagine amplification like that, for power users, and being able to juice 11-15 discrete channels in 4-5U of space.
(Yes, I am being silly, but, I think the point is valid. :))
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
You nailed my interest point exactly: efficiency, size and weight, more friendly to the environment... also flexibility!
I could see a tri-mono design in a 1U chassis (which I think would be thinner than the 2200). Imagine amplification like that, for power users, and being able to juice 11-15 discrete channels in 4-5U of space.
(Yes, I am being silly, but, I think the point is valid. :))
...and lets not forget that the added efficiency may well make the difference of whether you need to add a dedicated circuit if your speakers/listening habits would actually need that high power.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
The test bench results of the Hypex amp will definitely be much better than the M2200 from 1 W to rated W. Again, I expect the M2200 may not even make it to Amir's orange bucket. I do believe audible results would be the same though for 99.9% of the population if not higher, when both are used well below their rated output, and of course, all else being equal.. For mono block, in terms of $/W that Outlaw amp when on sale, is hard to beat.
What is Amir's orange bucket?
I read/scanned the review of the Nord One NC500 assuming it made it into the "orange bucket", but guess I missed it!
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
...and lets not forget that the added efficiency may well make the difference of whether you need to add a dedicated circuit if your speakers/listening habits would actually need that high power.
Indeed... in all likelihood, very few need that much. I am, of course, prone to hyperbole. :p

Even for my interest in having my bed layer matched for multi-channel recordings, I would only need at most 7 channels amplified thusly. Truthfully, the rears and any Atmos don't need that at all. so really just 5-channels, for me. But 5-Channels of mono-amplification fitting in 2U of rack space would be EPIC!. :D

(Clearly, I believe that if I keep talking about it, it will become reality!) *exuberant guffaw
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Samurai
What is Amir's orange bucket?
I read/scanned the review of the Nord One NC500 assuming it made it into the "orange bucket", but guess I missed it!
What's positive about that orange bucket is that it's not mixed with the lemon one.:D
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Is Orange good? Or bad? ;) I'haen't dug too deeply into his stuff yet. *blushes
I consider them good but as always, ymmv. The $4,499 AV8805 was an orange, unless it was a lemon, per Verdinut..:D

1580588606044.png


 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Ninja
I bet Outlaw will go that route within a year or two. It makes business sense, the trend it to go light, save on shipping costs and consequently become more environmentally friendly. Class A was crazy, followed by many pure class AB amps. Class D or similar is definitely the way to go.
Peng, I just realized there are two different reviews of the Hypex modules... this is a review Amir did of the NC400 modules with a single power supply. That Nord Amp was using the NC500 modules. This one tested better! :)
 
John Galt

John Galt

Junior Audioholic
Has anyone found a clean solution for dimming the status LED on the 2200?

I don’t want to tape over the light, or do anything permanent with glue or the like, or do anything that makes it look like I actually did anything...besides dim the light by maybe half.

I’m thinking that some type of circular plastic plug that could snap in to the light recess, maybe grey tinted frosted plastic, would be perfect. The circle surrounding the LED measures about 16mm.

Any ideas?
 
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KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Has anyone found a clean solution for dimming the status LED on the 2200?

I don’t want to tape over the light, or do anything permanent with glue or the like, or do anything that makes it look like I actually did anything...besides dim the light by maybe half.

I’m thinking that some type of circular plastic plug that could snap in to the light recess, maybe grey tinted frosted plastic, would be perfect. The circle surrounding the LED measures about 16mm.

Any ideas?
I don't have an issue on this with my 2200, but I have pro audio studio monitors with overly bright leds. I opened them up and used a black sharpie on the inside surface of the plastic that lets the light come through the baffle. I suspect you could do the same with the 2200 (more easily since it is easier to remove the cover on the 2200). The finished product toned down the led nicely and you would never know that it didn't come from the factory like that!
If that doesn't darken it enough - Note that a Sharpie will not block all of the light, only mute it a bit. Tester's paint for plastic models can do more. I'm not sure how much subsequent coats of Sharpie will do. If you use a truly opaque paint like Testers, you can scratch some of the paint off (using the point of a needle) to let a little light through if you want the light to continue to be visible/usable.
 
RichB

RichB

Audioholic Field Marshall
Has anyone found a clean solution for dimming the status LED on the 2200?

I don’t want to tape over the light, or do anything permanent with glue or the like, or do anything that makes it look like I actually did anything...besides dim the light by maybe half.

I’m thinking that some type of circular plastic plug that could snap in to the light recess, maybe grey tinted frosted plastic, would be perfect. The circle surrounding the LED measures about 16mm.

Any ideas?
I have used light dims:


- Rich
 
John Galt

John Galt

Junior Audioholic
I don't have an issue on this with my 2200, but I have pro audio studio monitors with overly bright leds. I opened them up and used a black sharpie on the inside surface of the plastic that lets the light come through the baffle. I suspect you could do the same with the 2200 (more easily since it is easier to remove the cover on the 2200). The finished product toned down the led nicely and you would never know that it didn't come from the factory like that!
If that doesn't darken it enough - Note that a Sharpie will not block all of the light, only mute it a bit. Tester's paint for plastic models can do more. I'm not sure how much subsequent coats of Sharpie will do. If you use a truly opaque paint like Testers, you can scratch some of the paint off (using the point of a needle) to let a little light through if you want the light to continue to be visible/usable.
I appreciate you sharing your experience. I’m looking for something a little more professional looking, and completely non-destructive though.

I can picture the snap in lens type device I want, but I don’t even know what it would be called.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I appreciate you sharing your experience. I’m looking for something a little more professional looking, and completely non-destructive though.

I can picture the snap in lens type device I want, but I don’t even know what it would be called.
Because you are applying the "tinting" on the inside of the plastic, it looks professional from the outside! You could use a wax pen on the inside as far as being non-destructive.

I'm not sure where you would find the "lens" the perfect size to snap in. Are you talking about snapping out the current lens and replacing it with a darker one or are you thinking of a cover for the existing one?
 
John Galt

John Galt

Junior Audioholic
Because you are applying the "tinting" on the inside of the plastic, it looks professional from the outside! You could use a wax pen on the inside as far as being non-destructive.

I'm not sure where you would find the "lens" the perfect size to snap in. Are you talking about snapping out the current lens and replacing it with a darker one or are you thinking of a cover for the existing one?
There is no lens on the 2200, just a LED poking through a hole in the front plate.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I have used light dims:


- Rich
do these stretch easily to conform to non-flat surfaces? I got some black vinyl sheet to convert my Chevy bow-tie from gold to black and was very impressed at how well it conformed to the contours - that was 8 years ago and it still looks like new!
But what I'm really wondering is if these will conform to a curved surface like a latex or if that would force wrinkles like paper.
 
RichB

RichB

Audioholic Field Marshall
do these stretch easily to conform to non-flat surfaces? I got some black vinyl sheet to convert my Chevy bow-tie from gold to black and was very impressed at how well it conformed to the contours - that was 8 years ago and it still looks like new!
Somewhat. I did not get a perfect fit when I used them on the Parasound amps.
They are sticky so can span a hole for an LED.

- Rich
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
There is no lens on the 2200, just a LED poking through a hole in the front plate.
Sorry, my bad, I'm not at home where I can look at mine and I made a bad assumption that they had a plastic "cylinder" or lens between the led and the exterior like my monitors do!
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Warlord
A piece of putty in the inside or something along those lines would look factory, block light and be non destructive. Plus I like the diy aspect of it.

*Edit: Just saw there is no lens for said putty... lol
 
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