The popular Outlaw M2200 mono block power amp

[John Galt]

Sorry, my bad, I'm not at home where I can look at mine and I made a bad assumption that they had a plastic "cylinder" or lens between the led and the exterior like my monitors do!

It almost looks like it was made for a lens. 16mm diameter, about 1mm deep.

 

[Pogre]

I have used light dims:

LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED covers and Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and more. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Minimal Packaging. - Ceiling Pendant Fixtures - Amazon.com

LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED covers and Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and more. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Minimal Packaging. - Ceiling Pendant Fixtures - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

- Rich

Oh boy, I might get a pack of those!

 

[Alex2507]

Oh boy, I might get a pack of those!

My power conditioner has a piece of neatly cut electrical tape on the offending bright lights. Nobody has noticed. I had forgotten about it. To see it I would have to get on the floor with a flashlight.

 

[John Galt]

My power conditioner has a piece of neatly cut electrical tape on the offending bright lights. Nobody has noticed. I had forgotten about it. To see it I would have to get on the floor with a flashlight.

I’ve done similar on my cable modem and other similar items. My amps are front and center and I’m really hoping to figure out a more elegant solution.

 

[Shanman]

John, I'm thinking those LightDims might be the ticket. Seems like the card comes in many sizes of adhesive circles, so something would likely fit or be very close to the 16mm.

Or, get creative and search for some old funky Fresnel lens off a small flashlight. Green!

When I used to be heavy into restoring vintage VW's there were actual bulb covers that would color the tiny incandescent bulbs used in the speedometers. The covers simply slid over the end of a tiny domed bulb and not only colored the white light, but greatly reduced the intensity. Anyway, food for thought.

Like these:

Amazon.com: Tanin Auto Electronix blue T10 light bulb color caps (10 pack) - covers Toyota & Honda speedometers - 168 192: Automotive

Buy Tanin Auto Electronix blue T10 light bulb color caps (10 pack) - covers Toyota & Honda speedometers - 168 192: Gauge Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[John Galt]

Got some detailed pictures of the inside of the Outlaw 2200.

I have no idea why some of them are upside down after uploading to the forum. I was careful to orient them correctly before uploading.

I pushed two of theses (2.2 LR with 2 SVS subs crossed over at 80 Hz) to the max last night on my Denon X3500H with my B&W 683 S2s and that rear heat sink with the A1386 transistors got really hot...hot like my old Denon 2312 would get driving the same speakers at very high volumes before it would go into protection mode and shut down hot.

I’m kind of torn between these 2200s and an Emotiva A-300 that I also just got, and after seeing how hot these can get with my setup it’s got me thinking really hard about keeping the A-300 with it’s two integrated cooling fans.

 

[Gmoney]

Got some detailed pictures of the inside of the Outlaw 2200.

I have no idea why some of them are upside down after uploading to the forum.

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Nice very nice! Those amps are beefy!
Your photos are the best i’ve seen of those amps

 

[John Galt]

Nice very nice! Those amps are beefy!
Your photos are the best i’ve seen of those amps

Note that I updated the post with these details:

“I pushed two of theses (2.2 LR with 2 SVS subs crossed over at 80 Hz) to the max last night on my Denon X3500H with my B&W 683 S2s and that rear heat sink with the A1386 transistors got really hot...hot like my old Denon 2312 would get driving the same speakers at very high volumes before it would go into protection mode and shut down hot.

I’m kind of torn between these 2200s and an Emotiva A-300 that I also just got, and after seeing how hot these can get with my setup it’s got me thinking really hard about keeping the A-300 with it’s two integrated cooling fans.”

 

[Pogre]

Got some detailed pictures of the inside of the Outlaw 2200.

I have no idea why some of them are upside down after uploading to the forum. I was careful to orient them correctly before uploading.

I pushed two of theses (LR) to the max last night on my Denon X3500H with my B&W 683 S2s and that rear heat sink with the A1386 transistors got really hot...hot like my old Denon 2312 would get driving the same speakers at very high volumes before it would go into protection mode and shut down hot.

I’m kind of torn between these 2200s and an Emotiva A-300 that I also just got, and after seeing how hot these can get with my setup it’s got me thinking really hard about keeping the A-300 with it’s two integrated cooling fans.

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Glad I checked back before I said anything. I didn't see any images the first time! Were they uploading or were you having technical difficulties (this site can be dodgy uploading pics)?

Very cool tho. This is the first time I've seen inside one of these. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Gmoney]

Note that I updated the post with these details:

“I pushed two of theses (LR) to the max last night on my Denon X3500H with my B&W 683 S2s and that rear heat sink with the A1386 transistors got really hot...hot like my old Denon 2312 would get driving the same speakers at very high volumes before it would go into protection mode and shut down hot.

I’m kind of torn between these 2200s and an Emotiva A-300 that I also just got, and after seeing how hot these can get with my setup it’s got me thinking really hard about keeping the A-300 with it’s two integrated cooling fans.”

I’d keep the monoblocks over the EMO amp, maybe put a lil fan blowing over the monoblock amps. I went check out that EMO A-300, 150 @ 8 Ohmos 300 @ 4 Ohmos. On the power rail it has 8 power Transistors, but with the monoblock amps you have 4 power transistors on the rail each L/R main would have it’s own power supply. I’m no amp Expert not even close, PENG could Definitely give more Detailed Thoughts on the build between the two amps. Here’s the thing about Emotiva, from what I have read when their gear they sell goes out of warranty they may or may Not service some of the gear they sell. Not saying the EMO amp isn’t a good amp after all it is 150 X 2 into 8 Ohms and less cost also.

 

[John Galt]

Glad I checked back before I said anything. I didn't see any images the first time! Were they uploading or were you having technical difficulties (this site can be dodgy uploading pics)?

Very cool tho. This is the first time I've seen inside one of these. Thanks for sharing!

Photo uploading was tricky on an iPad. Made quite a few edits so that’s probably why the images didn’t show up at one point.

 

[John Galt]

I’d keep the monoblocks over the EMO amp, maybe put a lil fan blowing over the monoblock amps. I went check out that EMO A-300, 150 @ 8 Ohmos 300 @ 4 Ohmos. On the power rail it has 8 power Transistors, but with the monoblock amps you have 4 power transistors on the rail each L/R main would have it’s own power supply. I’m no amp Expert not even close, PENG could Definitely give more Detailed Thoughts on the build between the two amps. Here’s the thing about Emotiva, from what I have read when their gear they sell goes out of warranty they may or may Not service some of the gear they sell. Not saying the EMO amp isn’t a good amp after all it is 150 X 2 into 8 Ohms and less cost also.

I really appreciate your input, and I’d also appreciate Peng’s thoughts.

I plan on doing more A/B subjective testing over the next few days.

Maybe I’ll post some photos of the A-300 internals as well.

 

[Pogre]

I’d keep the monoblocks over the EMO amp, maybe put a lil fan blowing over the monoblock amps. I went check out that EMO A-300, 150 @ 8 Ohmos 300 @ 4 Ohmos. On the power rail it has 8 power Transistors, but with the monoblock amps you have 4 power transistors on the rail each L/R main would have it’s own power supply. I’m no amp Expert not even close, PENG could Definitely give more Detailed Thoughts on the build between the two amps. Here’s the thing about Emotiva, from what I have read when their gear they sell goes out of warranty they may or may Not service some of the gear they sell. Not saying the EMO amp isn’t a good amp after all it is 150 X 2 into 8 Ohms and less cost also.

Yeah, @PENG's the man when it comes to amps in most cases. Tho to give a li'l bit of credit you surprise me sometimes. I'll bet the knowledge gap between you and I is bigger than the one between you and Peng, lol.

 

[John Galt]

Emotiva A-300 internals for comparison.

 

[Gmoney]

Yeah, @PENG's the man when it comes to amps in most cases. Tho to give a li'l bit of credit you surprise me sometimes. I'll bet the knowledge gap between you and I is bigger than the one between you and Peng, lol.

Yeah I enjoy reading PENG’s post Especially on amps His knowledge on amps is way above my pay grade. Pogre, I’ve learned a Lot from the guys on here, You way ahead of me when it comes to use of Room correction for sure. You still have those SVS tower’s?

 

[Gmoney]

Emotiva A-300 internals for comparison.

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For 399.00 looks beefy also, but the amp PC board seems half the size of the Outlaw monoblock.

 

[John Galt]

For 399.00 looks beefy also, but the amp PC board seems half the size of the Outlaw monoblock.

One thing that I like on the Outlaw over the Emo is the fact that the Outlaw actually uses the power cord ground and it goes directly to the chassis.

The Emo doesn’t even use the power cord ground wire.

I like that the Outlaw doesn’t require a trigger cable (music sense mode handles this well) and has XLR inputs that I may want to use in the future.

 

[KEW]

I’m kind of torn between these 2200s and an Emotiva A-300 that I also just got, and after seeing how hot these can get with my setup it’s got me thinking really hard about keeping the A-300 with it’s two integrated cooling fans.”

Definitely put the Emotiova through the same test - your speakers at the same volumes and see how it fares!

Based on specifications, the 2200 is more capable:
Outlaw 2200

Power Output:
200 watts @ 8 ohms, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, <0.05% THD;
300 watts @ 4 ohms, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, <0.05%

Emotiva A-300

Power Output (both channels driven):
150 watts RMS per channel; 20 Hz – 20 kHz; THD < 0.1%; into 8 Ohms.
300 watts RMS per channel; 1 kHz; THD < 1%; into 4 Ohms.

Emotiva has superficially met the criteria of "doubling down" at 4 ohms, but at 20 times the distortion and only at 1 kHz bandwidth (as compared to 20Hz-20kHz)! Those are pretty substantial compromises to get the 300W rating@4 ohms, while the Outlaw is doing 300 Watts without having to give up THD or frequency range!
I consider this very poor form. Why doesn't Emotiva publish the power rating under more standard conditions for high quality gear?

That you are getting the 2200's to heat up that much makes me wonder about the load your B&W 683 S2 speakers present.

Here is the Impedance (solid) - Phase (dashed) graph:

I am far from qualified to interpret this graph, but the conditions between 600 to 700 Hz of <4 Ohms and Phase around 45 degrees seems to be pretty tough for any typical amp!
Hopefully someone with a better trained eye for these measurements can comment.

The Emotiva amp also disappoints me with how the two fans point straight into the cooling fins. In comparison to the QSC amp below, the fans in the A-300 look like they were added as an afterthought once they found out how quickly the unit overheated without a fan!:

Compare that to the QSC RMX-850 - their's has a tunnel with the cooling fins inside and the fan at the back draws air through the tunnel. This is so much more efficient!

 

[John Galt]

Definitely put the Emotiova through the same test - your speakers at the same volumes and see how it fares!

Based on specifications, the 2200 is more capable:
Outlaw 2200


Emotiva A-300


Emotiva has superficially met the criteria of "doubling down" at 4 ohms, but at 20 times the distortion and only at 1 kHz bandwidth (as compared to 20Hz-20kHz)! Those are pretty substantial compromises to get the 300W rating@4 ohms, while the Outlaw is doing 300 Watts without having to give up THD or frequency range!
I consider this very poor form. Why doesn't Emotiva publish the power rating under more standard conditions for high quality gear?

That you are getting the 2200's to heat up that much makes me wonder about the load your B&W 683 S2 speakers present.

Here is the Impedance (solid) - Phase (dashed) graph:

I am far from qualified to interpret this graph, but the conditions between 600 to 700 Hz of <4 Ohms and Phase around 45 degrees seems to be pretty tough for any typical amp!
Hopefully someone with a better trained eye for these measurements can comment.

The Emotiva amp also disappoints me with how the two fans point straight into the cooling fins. In comparison to the QSC amp below, the fans in the A-300 look like they were added as an afterthought once they found out how quickly the unit overheated without a fan!:

Compare that to the QSC RMX-850 - their's has a tunnel with the cooling fins inside and the fan at the back draws air through the tunnel. This is so much more efficient!

The first time I pushed the A-300 hard the fans did kick in, but I couldn’t hear them because the music was so loud. The top of the chassis barely got warm, and the fans spun down very quickly when the volume was reduced. I’d say they were effective.

 

[KEW]

The first time I pushed the A-300 hard the fans did kick in, but I couldn’t hear them because the music was so loud. The top of the chassis barely got warm, and the fans spun down very quickly when the volume was reduced. I’d say they were effective.

I would never argue that they were not effective. Emotiva would not spend the money on them them if they did not make a difference. My point is that they are an add-on rather than integrated into the design. I like to see a better engineered product. The Emotiva is the only unit I remember seeing with fans blowing into the wall of the fins instead over the fins. This Denon AVR-X4500H is the most typical way to design for fan cooling: