Teac Reference Series

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Thanos916

Audiophyte
Does anybody knows the difference between the Teac PD-H500 vs PD-H500i vs PD-H500C?


BTW,
I upgraded the speakers of my teac system form mission to focal 706.
Still on breaking in and searching for speaker stands...
https://postimg.org/image/pfrlmclpn/
 
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Neo_Soul

Enthusiast
I got rid of the tannoys and am now running my h550 receiver with klipsch quartet speakers. I like this combination much better so far. One day I will hopefully own the h500 amp.
 
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arpeggiator

Audiophyte
Hello TEAC users. I have some TEAC reference stuff like : AH-500i, PD-H500i, AG-H550. System plays with Q Acoustics 3050 Stereo Speakers and Tannoy EFX 5.1 Set. True is that im so happy with this Set. AH 500i play better then 3 times expensive sets. I just have only 1 problem with Volume potentiometer in AG-H550. Volume is incerasing with all speaker good but in ceneter speaker voice ocasionally disappears and scratching but if i punch into potentiometer or incarase volume the sound does become the norm. Greetings
 

Attachments

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niccav

Enthusiast
Hi

I just got a a-h500i that I'm planning to use with bookshelf speakers in the near future.

Today I tried the headphone out and got some surprises.
1. The volume goes from directly from nothing to relatively loud when using the cd input. Haven't tried the other inputs yet.
2. When I'm using the cd input I can still hear music, albeit low but clearly louder than a whisper on the other input options.
3. When I increase the volume, no input there is a background noice/hiss. It increases with increasing volume
4. Left headphone seems slightly louder than the left. It certainly comes on earlier. I know it's not the headphones it doesn't happen when connected only to my headphone dac/amp

Any help and all suggestions greatly appreciated

Thank you,
Nick
 
F

Fisch

Audiophyte
Hello guys, I’m Tom from Germany.

Thank you Seth=L, what a great thread!

My first TEAC experience (500 series) was 20 years ago as my friend bought these components

A-H500, T-H500 and PD-H500 with JBL speakers new from a dealer and I was really impressed of the sound quality of these timeless beauties.

At this time I had a quitely good 5.1 Technics surround system what I sold some years after. Since then I use a TEAC A-H400 with a Pioneer PD-C5 from the Impresso 5 series and Technics SB-M500 speakers and I’m still so satisfied about the sound quality and the outstanding look of these nice components.

As far as I know, from the TEAC 400 Reference Series are there only two components, the A-H400 Integrated Amplifier and the CD-Player PD-H400. The PD-H400 looks like the PD-H500.


TEAC A-H400:



my Amp:







TEAC PD-H400:





PIONEER PD-C5:





Here are some A-H400 specs to compare with the other components:

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/teac/a-h400.shtml
 
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M

mvd

Audiophyte
Hi,

I have a A-H500i amplifier that has been working very well. A couple of days ago, I was (gently) changing the volume when I heard a slight click (not through the speakers, from the unit itself). After the click, the volume knob became much easier to turn (lower friction). The amp still works, but since the click I can't change the volume anymore with the remote control.

I've opened the unit to check it out, and the volume control motor seems to work (I can hear it), but it doesn't turn the volume knob anymore. I suspect that the problem is the small gearbox that sits between the motor and the volume knob.

Does anyone have any idea where I could buy a replacement part? I have found the service manual for the A-H500i online, but googling for the volume motor's part number, reference or comment doesn't give any useful results (the only hits in Google are other Teac service manuals). The gearbox itself doesn't even seem to have a part number or reference, it's in the drawing however.

Thanks,
Michaël
 
V

Victor rODRIGUEZ

Audioholic Intern
I feel very fortunate to have found this site full of Teac-Addicts.
This is my little collection.
IMG_3237.JPG
IMG_3232.JPG
IMG_3233.JPG
IMG_3240.JPG
IMG_3351.JPG
IMG_3338.JPG
 
N

Neo_Soul

Enthusiast
if anyone in the states is interested, I'm looking to trade my teac ag-h550 receiver for the h500 amp & tuner.
 
F

Feridun Eray

Audiophyte
Hi,

Can anyone help me about copying Teac RC-711 or RC799 to a smart phone and share?
I've lost my remotes for A-H300 and AG-H300.

As I know Anymote app can learn and share the remote controllers but only with HTC M7 and M8 smart phones. If you know any other app which does the same, pls copy and share these remotes as I have no chance to find replacement where I live in.
Thank you.
 
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boxmod

Audiophyte
Hi,i have a teac h500i. Im going to replace the power reservoir caps. Can i replace them with a slightly bigger value? The value is 4700uf,looking to go a bit larger. Thanks
 
D

dom_b

Audiophyte
hi, i've got a bunch of 300 series components now i've been so impressed :)

i have one problem with an AG-H350 surround amp though. Occasionally the centre channel appears to almost dissapear when watching a film. It tends to be fixed by switching to stereo and back to surround, but not always. I assumed this was an amp problem rather than the source. Its very intermittent. Anybody else had similar issues?

Just after writing this i've had the issue again. Also noticed it's accomanied by distortion on the centre channel. After a bit of switching to stereo and back a few times it eventually clears up. Very strange.

Also the amp occasionally switches off when switching between stereo and surround sound, almost as though the buttons have got confused? I was just trying to switch between DTS/dolby d and for some reason the test tone played instead. All strange intermittent stuff.
 
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Millmoo

Audiophyte
Hi,
I came across this thread a while ago trawling through the internet trying to decide what vintage kit to buy....suffice to say I now have a much loved 500 reference set up....i just need one more piece of kit to satisfy my craving....a turntable....
So could someone advise me what would be my best bet to match my existing equipment???
Thanks...
Lee.
 
Johnny2Bad

Johnny2Bad

Audioholic Chief
I feel very fortunate to have found this site full of Teac-Addicts.
This is my little collection.
{snip ...}

View attachment 20202
I see you have a TEAC UD-H01. I love mine.

I remember when these types of products first came out in the late 1970's. They were a hard sell then, and it hasn't changed much. Technics had some very nice stuff then, but about the only thing that anyone today might recognize is the compact automatic linear tracking turntables with P-mount cartridges that were part of the line.

Hi,
I came across this thread a while ago trawling through the internet trying to decide what vintage kit to buy....suffice to say I now have a much loved 500 reference set up....i just need one more piece of kit to satisfy my craving....a turntable....
So could someone advise me what would be my best bet to match my existing equipment???
Thanks...
Lee.
Soo .. the ideal turntable is a used Technics SP-10 (not to be confused with the other SP-10, which was their top of the line model).

About 13" square, very slightly bigger than an LP record cover. There are two issues. One, make sure you are buying a working model. Some un-educated sellers on eBay think the one they are selling doesn't work because they automatically sense the record size, and if you don't put a record in the thing, it won't work. So, maybe a bargain for a "for parts only" sale that has nothing wrong with it.

On the other hand, the linear tracking arm can have problems, usually due to the belt that drives the arm being too old, dried up, or otherwise non-functional. So definitely PM a seller and see what you can learn.

The killer is the need for P-mount cartridges, which aren't offered by many manufacturers any longer, but it's not all bad news. Stay away from the low-end Audio-Technicas. Technics did offer some excellent cartridges but you will have to shop eBay to buy one now, and cartridges, especially used cartridges, are a dicey proposition.

There are current production Grado models that range from decent to near top of their line. And the ultimate is the P-mount version of the Blue Point Special Moving Coil, which is a really great cartridge and although not expensive by Moving Coil standards, is still more than a couple copies of Benjamin Franklin's portrait, plus the need for a MC step-up device (active or transformer).

Now for the good news ... the way these 'tables work, is you lift the lid, place the album on the platter, and close the lid. Not only are they fully automatic, but you never touch the tonearm in use. Even cuing up a different track is done with the lid closed and via buttons on the front.

Because the tonearm/cartridge can't really be accessed in normal use, and is never manually cued, ham-fisted idiots probably haven't damaged the cartridge that is in it. Now, a determined idiot can still reach in there and with some effort, do his typical destruction. But in normal use there is no way to actually touch the tonearm. So, unlike many vintage turntables, you might not have to buy a cartridge at all.

Good working models are still available in the used market, and they are not terribly expensive as turntables go. Maybe $200, and I've seen them go for less.

{image: wikipedia}


Technics SL-10.JPG


Compact systems of quality are still a hard sell here.

Reasons? There is a dis-connect between the product and the price tags. The market is so full of low-fi products that look similar that people expect to see a $100 or maybe at most $200 price tag.

To overcome that, the manufacturer has to really make an effort on cosmetics and control "feel" which adds costs, so that they seem expensive when compared to conventional sized components with the same spec sheet.

It takes an educated consumer and on top of that, one who cares about appearance and fit into a decor, which is not describing the average HiFi buyer in North America. So selection and availability suffers ... distributors don't want to bring in much of the available product mix, for fear of sitting on old unsold inventory. The manufacturer doesn't want to spend the extra dollars to meet North American compliance testing at five figures a model on too many models in the Japanese / European catalog.

And now we have the 21st century buyer who seems to have effectively skipped the mid-sized components and gone straight to the *really* compact stuff. Ironically, these items are too big today for many consumers.

It's a combination of factors that tend to result in a circular argument against more models in the CDM and USDMarkets.

Still, to the right person, they are the perfect answer. Good thread.
 
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Johnny2Bad

Johnny2Bad

Audioholic Chief
Hi,i have a teac h500i. Im going to replace the power reservoir caps. Can i replace them with a slightly bigger value? The value is 4700uf,looking to go a bit larger. Thanks
You can almost always replace a power supply cap (only, not others) with a bigger uf value. There is no need to go too crazy here, because there is an inrush current as the cap charges on power-up, and you don't want to be stressing the transformer with currents it's not designed for. But a moderate increase is almost always OK.

Just make sure the voltage rating is the same, never lower. You can increase that a bit too, but if you have a choice, it's better to use the same voltage rating but seek out one rated for higher temperature (85C is pretty standard, 105C is better).

The further you are away from that heat rating, the longer the cap lasts, so if the ambient temps are maybe 50C then you have increased the expected life with the 105C cap quite a bit. Industry rule of thumb is doubled for every 10C reduction from the rated temperature spec.

Modern caps are generally smaller than older variants of equal specification (or at least no bigger) so there should be no problem fitting them. Just be sure to also check the height.

Electrolytic caps are (usually) polarized, so don't fit it in backwards. WEAR EYE PROTECTION anytime you are replacing capacitors. When they fail in certain ways (and reverse polarity is one of those ways) they can explode violently without warning and will send shards of material, sometimes very hot material, like little rockets into the room, and for a surprising distance and velocity. Make sure that doesn't mean "into you eye" instead. It already hurts bad enough on your forehead.

Buy your caps from a known good supplier such as DigiKey, Mouser, Parts Connexion and so on. DO NOT buy caps on eBay or any Asian website. There are many fake caps coming out of Asia. Don't take chances.

Use the same brand and type, if you can still find them. If not, try United Chemicon SMH series or Nichicon LKG or KG, a premium cap would be Nichicon KX. For the most part there is no need for special "Audio Grade" caps in a power supply such as yours, save your money. You should have no trouble finding caps in the uF rating you need.

Sorry for the yelling, but it had to be done.
 
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V

Victor rODRIGUEZ

Audioholic Intern
there is an english guy who sells a lot on ebay and who mounts the series 300 and 500 with this:
Teac A-H300 INTEGRATED AMP


WORK DONE WITHOUT GETTING INTO TOO MUCH DETAIL:

MAIN POWER CAPS BYPASSED WITH WIMA
4X CUSTOM BUILT OPAMP NE5532 FITTED
AUDIO PATH CAPS ELNA SILMIC II'S
SMALLER POWER CAPS PANASONIC FC
INPUT CAPS CHANGED TO SILVER MICA 2%
VOLUME/BASS/TREBLE POT CHEMICALLY TREATED


A lot of work has gone into this little Teac! The main poweramp board has many of the audio path caps upgraded to Wima/polystyrene/polypropylene. The main powercaps were already decent but was bypassed with Wima polypropylene. Output caps also replaced with Wima. All the old opamp were replaced with a custom fitted/built NE5532. Since this amp was optimised for CD Direct all the audio path caps were replaced with audiophile grade Elna Simlic II's and Silver mica's !! Very costly parts high end parts! The following inputs were super upgraded CD, Tuner and Aux.

Result is a beautiful sounding amplifier that beats its older brother the A-H500i !! Sound is incredibly clear, detailed and bass is just jaw dropping. It packs a real punch in the low end, detailed and textured at low and high volumes! I have this paired up to my Mission DAC5 and all I can say is wow!! If you looking for a tiny amp with super quality sound then this is for you! Sound is amazingly warm, very musical toe tapping amp!

The amp is only 35 watts but at half volume my 125 watt Epos M12.2 speakers was literally shaking my whole flat! If you didnt know already I am "THE" expert on the older brother 500i and have sold over 10 modded on Ebay alone. Its little brother sounds better than the stock 500i hard to believe but then I am the Amp King. Buy it Love it!

you can see it whit photos
https://www.ebay.es/itm/TEAC-A-H300-Integrated-Amplifier-UPGRADED/323216032470?hash=item4b412d42d6:g:0JcAAOSwhFFaiYw1
 
V

Victor rODRIGUEZ

Audioholic Intern
[QUOTE = "Juniorvae, post: 1069036, member: 71713"] Hola a todos,

¡Una nueva nuez aquí!

¡Gran discusión yendo aquí! Me gusta la ref. serie, pero no puedo encontrar mucha información a excepción de este foro! Gracias por configurar esto hace muchos años y por mantenerlo funcionando.

¡Me registré porque mi AG-H550 y DV-H550 usan están en su camino! Tengo un par de Misión M52 esperando el set.
En mi pasantía en una pequeña audición, aprendí y aborrecí que las máquinas de la máquina a veces incluso a los floorstanders. La combinación del AG-H550 con mis Misiones es un gran interrogante para mí. ¿Alguno de ustedes tiene la idea de las expectativas al respecto?

Gracias Jr [/ QUOTE]
[QUOTE = "chug, post: 945752, member: 63537"] Tan sacramental como probablemente sea, quiero desmontar el deck de 500 CD y construir un HTPC dentro. Luchando para encontrar un VFD correspondiente para el frente, de lo contrario, debería ser bastante sencillo. Se ajustará una placa micro ATX, una mini ITX encajará en los 300 sistemas, una nevera y una tarjeta de gráficos decentes encajarán en una plataforma de 300 cassettes y 500 CD. GPU de bajo perfil en el resto.

El sintonizador tiene la pantalla más grande y encontré un personaje 40x4 que encajará, pero no coincide con el resto de la configuración. Supongo que en el mío no utilizaré el sintonizador o el casette, pero sería muy agradable tratar de mantenerlo como OE como sea posible.

Recogió un sistema 300 muy barato, por lo que puede dar la vuelta para golpear un par, y guardará algunas imágenes si / cuándo.

El intercambio de capacitores es interesante. ¿Hay alguna otra modificación para el amplificador de 500?

Estoy viendo el amplificador 550 av corriendo el 500 en los preajustes para el frente, pero no hace ninguno de los formatos modernos, y el verdadero asesino es que no puedo ver una entrada de varios canales? Eso sería genial si se pudiera alimentar con decodificación analógica. Así que estoy pensando en obtener un amplificador de potencia heredado de 3 canales y una buena tarjeta de sonido, con la esperanza de mantener el equilibrio de estéreo / películas. Simplemente significa que todo lo que sea digitalmente sano debería pasar por la computadora (principalmente TV)

¿Alguien usando similares? ¿O tienes alguna idea sobre cómo lograr lo anterior con una 550 av? Supongamos que puedo destripar el legado en el sintonizador 500. [/ QUOTE]
THIS IS MY HTPC BUILT ON A CABINET H-T300
THE MOTHERBOARD IS MINI ITX AND IT CARRIES A SOUND BOARD ASUS XONAR WITH WHAT I ATTACK MY SYNOLOGY
HTPC OVER TH300.JPG
 
M Code

M Code

Audioholic General
Be advised that Gibson Corp. is under severe financial pressure to meet some significant debt multi-million $ balloon payments due in June/July. Their brand Teac, Tascam have been rumored to be for sale as they have already sold off the rights of Onkyo video products to TCL.. Plus other assets including a large warehouse/distribution center. More news to follow as they are announced..

Just my $0.02... ;)
 
B

BigEars

Audiophyte
Hi,

I have a A-H500i amplifier that has been working very well. A couple of days ago, I was (gently) changing the volume when I heard a slight click (not through the speakers, from the unit itself). After the click, the volume knob became much easier to turn (lower friction). The amp still works, but since the click I can't change the volume anymore with the remote control.

I've opened the unit to check it out, and the volume control motor seems to work (I can hear it), but it doesn't turn the volume knob anymore. I suspect that the problem is the small gearbox that sits between the motor and the volume knob.

Does anyone have any idea where I could buy a replacement part? I have found the service manual for the A-H500i online, but googling for the volume motor's part number, reference or comment doesn't give any useful results (the only hits in Google are other Teac service manuals). The gearbox itself doesn't even seem to have a part number or reference, it's in the drawing however.

Thanks,
Michaël
Greetings Everyone.
I just discovered this forum recently, so apologies for such a late reply. I hope the following may be of use to you fellow TEAC A-H500i owners out there...

Motorised volume pot for TEAC AH-500i.jpg


If you have volume control issues, you might be in need of one these motorised potentiometers above.

The story is as follows...
I was lucky enough to find a used, defective AH-500i on eBay a year or so ago, and bought it - un-heard - for about half the going rate on the off-chance I might be able to fix it. It was advertised as having no output on one channel. Maybe that's why it was half-off.

When it arrived, it was in pleasingly good condition and I was impressed by the solidity and quality of construction. I'd always drooled over TEAC kit in hi-fi shops as a kid, but it was always out of my price range!

I duly I cranked up the oscilloscope and discovered no output from one side of the volume control pot.

This triggered some extended searching on the internet - it was surprisingly hard to find a compatible part. You'd be amazed how many possible ways there are to get it wrong! You're looking for:
  • 2 channels ganged together on the same shaft
  • the right resistance
  • the right resistance taper (the human ear's response to sound volume is approximately logarithmic, so to get a linear sounding change in volume with angle, you need to get a pot with a non-linear, ie tapered, response. There are different tapers available, specifically designed for audio volume controls)
  • a motor with the right polarity, voltage rating and gearing, with end stops at the correct angles, but a sliding clutch for manual control
  • the right shaft type. Length? diameter? D-flat or splined?
  • the right physical dimensions - clearances etc
And so on.

To add to the difficulties, equipment manufactured before 1995 or so is pre-internet, so the parts used are less likely to be documented electronically - ie no datasheets, not present in searchable parts databases.

To cut a long story short... using the few markings that were on the defective part, I managed to track down a part - possibly new old stock, originally manufactured in Korea by ALPS - on AliExpress.

This is an exact drop-in replacement for the OEM component with the exception that the shaft is a few mm shorter. But the knobby grips and stays on just

Here's the link:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/148-type-motor-with-double-potentiometer-50KAX2-handle-length-20MM-half/32555426735.html

Caveats: I don't know if they are still available - order at your own risk - YMMV etc
Hope it works out for you - let me know by pm if I can help.

ps the amp sounds reeeally good. It really shines. I like it a lot.
 

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