Rythmik Audio Owner's Thread

KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
The Rythmik F18 is up on Data-bass. Link
Looks like the FV18 and FV25HP are up next.
Steve,
Can you offer any explanation of why this sub would fail all frequencies below 40Hz when the limiter is off? The obvious solution is to leave the limiter on, but I expect the general nature of this sub mimics other sealed subs (which I expect to have limiters without the off switch).
But I would expect this sub to at least offer a passing result at 31.5Hz at something like 80Hz!
Without the usual charts showing the actual test results for each frequency, I am at a loss to understand why this sub would not give a passing result at a low level.
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
Steve,
Can you offer any explanation of why this sub would fail all frequencies below 40Hz when the limiter is off? The obvious solution is to leave the limiter on, but I expect the general nature of this sub mimics other sealed subs (which I expect to have limiters without the off switch).
But I would expect this sub to at least offer a passing result at 31.5Hz at something like 80Hz!
Without the usual charts showing the actual test results for each frequency, I am at a loss to understand why this sub would not give a passing result at a low level.
The results with the limiter off will be the max spl on the right. They fail because they are beyond the distortion limits. They produce plenty of clean output with or without the limiter either way.
 
Steve81

Steve81

Audioholics Five-0
Can you offer any explanation of why this sub would fail all frequencies below 40Hz when the limiter is off?
It's able to produce a passing result at those lower frequencies without the limiter, it's just not producing any additional passing/"clean" output, so Josh didn't fill in the blanks so to speak.

With the limiter turned off the maximum clean output doesn’t change below 25Hz. Above 31.5Hz there is some extra distortion limited output. Overall without distortion considered the maximum burst output increases by about 1.2dB on average.
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
A solid set of measurements. It's good to see Rythmik get some subs tested again. This looks to me like a very high-fidelity subwoofer.
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
My experience is anecdotal and without measurements but I briefly met Brian Ding and heard both the F18 and FV18 at an AVSForum GTG this past Saturday. The subs were awesome. Also got to experience a badass home theater, a lot of other speakers, and enjoy some great beer and company as well.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
ive been squirreling for a pair of fv15hp's, but now I might as well hold out for a pair of fv18's. Man, it looks like a Beast.
 
little wing

little wing

Audioholic General
Question for Rythmik owners - As you know there are a lot of adjustments on the back of these subs. One particular adjustment on the F12, "Parametric equalization", mine is currently set to off. Anybody here have any experience in using this feature, and how it might change the sound? The quick reference guide that Rythmik supplies is a little hard to understand in certain areas.
Thanks.
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
Question for Rythmik owners - As you know there are a lot of adjustments on the back of these subs. One particular adjustment on the F12, "Parametric equalization", mine is currently set to off. Anybody here have any experience in using this feature, and how it might change the sound? The quick reference guide that Rythmik supplies is a little hard to understand in certain areas.
Thanks.
It can be useful if you want to bring down a peak or raise up a dip in the response. It's not that useful if you don't know the frequency response at your listening position. I would measure the response at the listening position before I started messing with it, or else it could make things sound worse.
 
theJman

theJman

Audioholic Chief
Think of it like a single band equalizer, so you can boost/cut any one frequency. It's basically just another way to tailor the output, be it to compensate for a room issue or make it sound more to your liking. However, to get the most out of it you would need to measure the FR response at the MLP so you know what to adjust.
 
little wing

little wing

Audioholic General
Thanks guys. and by taking measurements, you mean using something like Room Eq with a mic, which I don't currently have, so I guess Parametric EQ stays off for now.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Thanks guys. and by taking measurements, you mean using something like Room Eq with a mic, which I don't currently have, so I guess Parametric EQ stays off for now.
An SPL meter and test tones would let you know where you might need some EQ.

If you don't have a meter, you can do a little trial and error targeting the frequencies of the three axial (H, W, & D) modes of your room.
If you measure/convert the room dimensions in feet, these frequencies are calculated as 1130/(2 times the dimension). For example, if your room is 20 feet wide, the frequency of the possible node or null for that dimension would be 1130/40 = 28.25Hz. I would try something like -8dB at each of these three frequencies to see if you notice a significant change/improvement; then go back and fine tune whichever you noticed the most improvement from.
Although the PEQ allows you to add up to 6dB, this is worthless for a room mode. If your LP is in a null, adding SPL at that frequency will not decrease the null. You have to move the sub or LP for that (or add a sub).
 
little wing

little wing

Audioholic General
An SPL meter and test tones would let you know where you might need some EQ.

If you don't have a meter, you can do a little trial and error targeting the frequencies of the three axial (H, W, & D) modes of your room.
If you measure/convert the room dimensions in feet, these frequencies are calculated as 1130/(2 times the dimension). For example, if your room is 20 feet wide, the frequency of the possible node or null for that dimension would be 1130/40 = 28.25Hz. I would try something like -8dB at each of these three frequencies to see if you notice a significant change/improvement; then go back and fine tune whichever you noticed the most improvement from.
Although the PEQ allows you to add up to 6dB, this is worthless for a room mode. If your LP is in a null, adding SPL at that frequency will not decrease the null. You have to move the sub or LP for that (or add a sub).
Kurt
I will have ready post a couple of times for total comprehension LOL! I do have a radio shack SPL meter though, and I am assuming you mean the test tones generated by my receiver?
Thanks
 

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