Question about hooking a 2 subs to a box (Car Audio)

[RecLodossWar]

It already is pointing to the back window. I mean it sounds like crap when your sitting in the back seat. Oh, and I found 2 of these cheap amps, one is 1-ohm stable and the other is 0.5 ohm stable.

0.5ohm stable, $149 Canadian (around $125 American) - http://xscargo.com/product.php?dept=Electronics&cat=Car Audio&index=66&item=HK102SX

1ohm stable, $299 Canadian (around $210 american) - http://xscargo.com/product.php?dept=Electronics&cat=Car Audio&index=78&item=CDX10A

this is a good place to get very cheap prices and they have a store in my area.

 

[zumbo]

Looks like BS to me. Where are the specs?

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

Didn't I recommend this amp once before? Those amps you listed are going to sound as good as they look. Nice VU meters. Ebay has the 800.1D on a few actions right now. That is more amp than you'll ever need for two subs.

www.thezeb.com/p-Bazooka-RSA800.1D-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier-106196.htm

 

[cbraver]

Looks like BS to me. Where are the specs?

It is. A lot of those cheap car amps make a quarter of the dirty power they claim to make when they are actually tested. Even when their specs say so.

-Chad

 

[RecLodossWar]

cbraver, are you sure? Where do u hear this? Usually this store sells everything at great prices, even well branded names.

 

[mulester7]

"well branded names"

.....hey, cool terminology.....

 

[cbraver]

cbraver, are you sure? Where do u hear this? Usually this store sells everything at great prices, even well branded names.

Yeah, I'm sure. Even the "big names" like Sony don't make near what they claim. Or, I should say, they can make it under controlled conditions, but not in their application or in their intent (to drive a speaker). It's pretty well known among car audio enthusiests, and very well known among educated buyers.

Weight is by no means the end all...but pickup a high quality 600watt amplifier for a home theater.... and then go pickup a typical 600watt car stereo amplifier.

 

[RecLodossWar]

ok, but will one of these amps at least run my 2 subs or are they not even 1ohm stable?

 

[annunaki]

A lot of car amp are rated at peak power. Peak power rating are completely useless as there is no standard on how to get them.

To give you an idea of how it is done, it goes a bit like this (for a mono amplifier): 15 Volts DC,or as much voltage as the power supply can handle, lowest impedance possible with out damage, 1 frequency, fully clipped, take highest measurment possible over 1 millisecond. That is how you get a $150 amp to do 1000 watts.

Most amplifiers rated at peak power can have there power ratings divided by FOUR yes, 4 to get realistic rms power. So, take your so called 1000 watt Sony (or any other brand rated at peak power), divide by 4 and we now have a 250 watt RMS amplifier. I bet the fuse would say so as well. I would say it would be no bigger than 40 amperes if it is a Class A/B amplifier, and no bigger than 30 amperes if it is a class D.

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

The Bazooka 800.1 Class D amp has an 80 amp fuse. It retailed for $500 when it came out.

It's a pretty mean amp, and for the prices you can get that amp for today, it's well worth it. I upgraded from an older Fosgate Punch two channel amp and think it puts out a cleaner sound. You cannot compare a home stereo amp to a car amp. Two different beasts. Annunaki is correct - the testing of car amplifiers is a joke, but they are changing that next year.

Bazooka Mobile Audio announces the company's full support of the new CEA-2006 Testing and Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers.

Here's some threads from the Bazooka forum if you'd like to see what owners of the amp think. I think most are pretty honest.

www.sasbazooka.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=4&whichpage=4&ARCHIVE=

 

[Francious70]

ok, but will one of these amps at least run my 2 subs or are they not even 1ohm stable?

Why would you want a 1 ohm load?? All 1 ohm loads can also be wired for 4 ohms. The advantage here is greater SQ, AND less amperage draw from your cars electrical system, WHILE producing the same power.

I don't know how much power you looking for, but I assume it's somewhere in the area of 1200 watts, since your wanting a 1 ohm load. I would suggest you look into Phoneix Gold's Xenon 1200.1, or JBL 1200.1, or a Hifonics Brutus, or an Eclipse, or if you wanna go all out, get a McIntosh and just be done with it.

Paul

 

[annunaki]

The Bazooka 800.1 Class D amp has an 80 amp fuse. It retailed for $500 when it came out.

It's a pretty mean amp, and for the prices you can get that amp for today, it's well worth it. I upgraded from an older Fosgate Punch two channel amp and think it puts out a cleaner sound. You cannot compare a home stereo amp to a car amp. Two different beasts. Annunaki is correct - the testing of car amplifiers is a joke, but they are changing that next year.

Bazooka Mobile Audio announces the company's full support of the new CEA-2006 Testing and Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers.

Here's some threads from the Bazooka forum if you'd like to see what owners of the amp think. I think most are pretty honest.

www.sasbazooka.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=4&whichpage=4&ARCHIVE=

Don't hold your breath, and do not expect too much from CEA-2006. For one, it is NOT a MANDATORY standard. Two, there is nothing in the standard that says you cannot put exaggerated peak power #'s on the box. Three,wattage is taken at 14.4 volts of input power, when it should be at 12.5 or 13.5 volts to indicate "Real World" power.

None of this is to say Bazooka will or won't do a good job with the standard though.

 

[annunaki]

Why would you want a 1 ohm load?? All 1 ohm loads can also be wired for 4 ohms. The advantage here is greater SQ, AND less amperage draw from your cars electrical system, WHILE producing the same power.

I don't know how much power you looking for, but I assume it's somewhere in the area of 1200 watts, since your wanting a 1 ohm load. I would suggest you look into Phoneix Gold's Xenon 1200.1, or JBL 1200.1, or a Hifonics Brutus, or an Eclipse, or if you wanna go all out, get a McIntosh and just be done with it.

Paul

Just so every one knows,

1000 watts is 1000 watts whether it is at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. Voltage present at the amplifier is what dictates current (amperage) draw, NOT impedance.

 

[zumbo]

Why would you want a 1 ohm load?? All 1 ohm loads can also be wired for 4 ohms. The advantage here is greater SQ, AND less amperage draw from your cars electrical system, WHILE producing the same power.

I don't know how much power you looking for, but I assume it's somewhere in the area of 1200 watts, since your wanting a 1 ohm load. I would suggest you look into Phoneix Gold's Xenon 1200.1, or JBL 1200.1, or a Hifonics Brutus, or an Eclipse, or if you wanna go all out, get a McIntosh and just be done with it.

Paul

If it pleases the court, can you tell us all how to get a 4ohm load with two 4ohm subs(SVC) on one amp while trying to get alot of power out of that amp?

I gave a link for the Xenon amps in a previous post. That is what I would use.

 

[annunaki]

Yes, Do tell!

 

[Francious70]

If it pleases the court, can you tell us all how to get a 4ohm load with two 4ohm subs(SVC) on one amp while trying to get alot of power out of that amp?

I gave a link for the Xenon amps in a previous post. That is what I would use.

SOmeone had mentioned 1 ohm in the post before me. Tell me how you get 2 4 ohm woofers to 1 ohm??

Anywhos, go with 2 ohms, and buy my old amp that I used to power my Kappa Perfect.

Precision Power PCX-1250. 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms.

Paul

 

[annunaki]

That is a pretty good amplifier.

 

[Francious70]

Just so every one knows,

1000 watts is 1000 watts whether it is at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. Voltage present at the amplifier is what dictates current (amperage) draw, NOT impedance.

The way it was explained to me is like this, and this comes directly from a major amplifier manufacturer.

"Let's take some hypothetical figures here:

I have an amp that will push 250 @ 4 ohms and 500 @ 2 ohms. The power supply inside the amp has a voltage limit of 30 volts. To make 250 watts, the amp will need to push 8.5 amps. To make 500 watts, it will need double the amperage.

I also have an amp rated for 500 watts @ 4 ohms and 1000 @ 2 ohms. The power supply inside the amp will have a higher voltage limit than the other amp (let's say 60 volts). This amp will only need 8.5 amps to make 500 watts, compared to the other amplifiers 17 amps.

Not to mention having the amp run cooler because of less current flow thru it."

Can you tell me if that's true or not??

Paul

 

[annunaki]

The way it was explained to me is like this, and this comes directly from a major amplifier manufacturer.

"Let's take some hypothetical figures here:

I have an amp that will push 250 @ 4 ohms and 500 @ 2 ohms. The power supply inside the amp has a voltage limit of 30 volts. To make 250 watts, the amp will need to push 8.5 amps. To make 500 watts, it will need double the amperage.

I also have an amp rated for 500 watts @ 4 ohms and 1000 @ 2 ohms. The power supply inside the amp will have a higher voltage limit than the other amp (let's say 60 volts). This amp will only need 8.5 amps to make 500 watts, compared to the other amplifiers 17 amps.

Not to mention having the amp run cooler because of less current flow thru it."

Can you tell me if that's true or not??

Paul

Either you misunderstood me or I misunderstood you.

I meant if one amp does 1000 watts rms at 4 ohms and another does 1000 watts at 1 ohm, they will both draw the same amount of current. Unless, one is Class D and one is class A/B.

What you stated is correct but I think your numbers are off a little. Using a constant of 12.5 volts input power, and figuring an average class A/B amplifer efficency (at full power) of roughly 55% one would see about:

36.36 amperes of draw for 250 watts RMS and 72.72 amperes for 500 watts RMS

If class D, figure a 75% average efficency and we get

26.67 amperes of draw for 250 watts RMS and 53.33 amperes for 500 watts RMS

I know they were hypothetical numbers.

 

[mulester7]

.....thoroughly excellent and relevant....Clint, plain and simple....Annunaki needs a raise......