Irvrobinson

Irvrobinson

Audioholic Spartan
This is an old thread, but does anyone know if Toyota still builds reliable vehicles?

I've been looking at the RAV4 and Highlander SUVs.
You had to dredge up a thread with Grimsurfer in it? What's next? A septic tank clean-out?
 
Out-Of-Phase

Out-Of-Phase

Audioholic General
LOL

I just hope he's not selling cars. I can only imagine what a test drive would be like with that guy.
 
davidscott

davidscott

Audioholic Ninja
Hopefully I just bought my last gasoline vehicle a 2020 Kia AWD Sportage. Driving less than 400 miles a month this should last me a good while.
 
Last edited:
cpp

cpp

Audioholic Ninja
This is an old thread, but does anyone know if Toyota still builds reliable vehicles?

I've been looking at the RAV4 and Highlander SUVs.
My daughter is still driving her 2012 Camary with 273 thousand miles. Just tires, brakes and wipers and a headlight, thats it. OUr friend down the street has a 2017 HIghlander and he drives back and forth to Canada twice a year and has 91K on his ride. Not the first issue. Id sure buy one before I bought a GM or a Dodge product.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
This is an old thread, but does anyone know if Toyota still builds reliable vehicles?

I've been looking at the RAV4 and Highlander SUVs.
Basically, any Japanese car should be very reliable. I relied previously on the Car and Driver cars ratings and it hasn't let me down yet. So the process for me is to go to Car and Driver ratings for the car type I am looking for and then start getting lease offers to see what I could afford or not. I recently found this site https://autoleaseninjas.net/ - they have aggressive lease prices which I found from several sources to be fairly reliable. They don't have all the brands yet online but should give some idea on lease deals which you could try to get. For example, while Outbacks were very good value, after price increase and decrease in discounts, Outback is no longer good value to lease, so I went with a Honda Passport.
If you're NOT interested in a lease, then the next best thing to do is to buy a low mileage re-certified car off the lease. This way someone else already paid for a big chunk of car depreciation and after 3 years the depreciation flattens out a bit.
 
MR.MAGOO

MR.MAGOO

Audioholic Field Marshall
Basically, any Japanese car should be very reliable.
Still wish I hadn't gotten in an accident with my 1982 Honda Accord LX Hatchback. 5 speed manual transmission. Drove that car all over the southwest US (Reno & Las Vegas, Nevada; Phoenix, AZ; southwest Utah), had over 120,000 miles when I got smashed between two pickup trucks! Don't worry, nobody got hurt. One pickup was a old Ford junky truck, the driver was very good natured about the accident, he used the Ford to haul lumber and junk so I could not even see any damage. My Honda had both front fenders smashed, both side view mirrors torn off. The other pickup was a little Toyota. Sure taught me to check my blindspot before changing lanes on a city street. Could have been worse on the freeway.
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
Bump!
Got a Kia Optima 2005 replaced the battery cause the old one was 3 years old and car won't turn on now. I'm thinking it's the alternater fuse. But not sure which one it is. Please help. Some pics.
IMG_09092021_182213_(2300_x_1294_pixel).jpg
IMG_09092021_182245_(2300_x_1294_pixel).jpg
 
Last edited:
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
More pics. I think it's the white one. Thoughts?
IMG_09092021_183225_(2300_x_1294_pixel).jpg
IMG_09092021_183151_(2300_x_1294_pixel).jpg
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
replaced the battery cause the old one was 3 years old
That's not old.

I'm thinking starter if it won't start.

The new battery (charged of course) would turn the motor if the car had a bad alternator but the voltage not increasing from 12 to 14 would indicate a bad alternator.

Chances of it being a fuse ... did you do something "chancy" when installing the battery?

You can check the fuse with an ohm meter. But it's the starter.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Dont have it. I'll see if I can find it online. Thank C.
Does the car have any sort of security/alarm system? Perhaps something on that needs to be reset after removing the battery?

What are the symptoms now? Will it turn over at all? Lights and accessories turn on? Or, just nothing at all?
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
That's not old.

I'm thinking starter if it won't start.

The new battery (charged of course) would turn the motor if the car had a bad alternator but the voltage not increasing from 12 to 14 would indicate a bad alternator.

Chances of it being a fuse ... did you do something "chancy" when installing the battery?

You can check the fuse with an ohm meter. But it's the starter.
Battery was dying even after a jump yesterday. Trying to turn it on, but won't start after battery change. Maybe it is the starter, but also could be the alternator fuse. Not sure. Not handy with cars. Just takes me from A to B.
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
Does the car have any sort of security/alarm system? Perhaps something on that needs to be reset after removing the battery?

What are the symptoms now? Will it turn over at all? Lights and accessories turn on? Or, just nothing at all?
No alarm system. Old car hand me down. Not sure how to reset. I have no type of car tool. Just a pliers, screw drivers and hammer. All Lights are fine after battery replacement. Trying to turn but just chugging and won't start.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Battery was dying even after a jump yesterday. Trying to turn it on, but won't start after battery change. Maybe it is the starter, but also could be the alternator fuse. Not sure. Not handy with cars. Just takes me from A to B.
What he is saying is that a car gets the power to START from the battery. Once the car is RUNNING, the alternator is spinning and supplying the power to the car and to recharge the battery.

Generally you can take voltage reading at the battery with the car off and should get ~12V, then when the car is running you should get something more like 14V (the charging voltage of the battery). If the car is running and still showing 12V or less, then likely the alternator isn't any good. You can pull off an alternator and take it to an auto-parts store for bench-testing.

So, new battery and it started up? But, now it won't start again? That may suggest that it is the alternator. Also, double check that all the cable connections are tight.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top