Alex2507 Audioholic Slumlord Dec 29, 2006 18,125 0 113 Nunya Bidness Apr 28, 2016 #481 Roadrune, I'm interested in what you're using for a router bit on the mitered corners. I think I know what's going on but I don't think I've ever seen that method of joinery in action. Nice going. Reactions: Swerd
Roadrune, I'm interested in what you're using for a router bit on the mitered corners. I think I know what's going on but I don't think I've ever seen that method of joinery in action. Nice going.
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 Apr 28, 2016 #482 Hi, i use this bit http://www.precisionbits.com/lock-miter-router-bit-45-degree-large-yonico-15122.html It was a PITA to set up, but offcourse youtube could help Reactions: Alex2507
Hi, i use this bit http://www.precisionbits.com/lock-miter-router-bit-45-degree-large-yonico-15122.html It was a PITA to set up, but offcourse youtube could help
Alex2507 Audioholic Slumlord Dec 29, 2006 18,125 0 113 Nunya Bidness Apr 28, 2016 #483 roadrune said: It was a PITA to set up Click to expand... I spend way too much time thinking about that joint. No pun/s. That has to be the ugliest cloud of MDF dust ever but locking a miter like that would be a dream come true for me. I have the perfect project for that bit.
roadrune said: It was a PITA to set up Click to expand... I spend way too much time thinking about that joint. No pun/s. That has to be the ugliest cloud of MDF dust ever but locking a miter like that would be a dream come true for me. I have the perfect project for that bit.
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 Apr 28, 2016 #484 Once its set, its a great joint. If you are going to use, check out the videos on youtube, helps a lot Reactions: Alex2507
Once its set, its a great joint. If you are going to use, check out the videos on youtube, helps a lot
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 Apr 28, 2016 #485 Swerd said: Try rubbing out the scratches with 0000 steel wool and clear untinted Watco Danish Oil. It may not remove all of the scratches, but it will improve things. The danger with solid hardwood on a closed six-sided cabinet is cracking. The wood will expand and shrink as the humidity changes. MDF has no grain and doesn't expand or shrink, and veneer is more flexible. I don't know what will happen with ¼" hardwood glued over MDF. Those polyurethane foam grills on mine crumbled and turned to dust a long time ago. That happened to everyone. Click to expand... Thanks for the tip on the Danish Oil and extra fine steel wool. You are correct about the nature of wood. I have had success and failure with gluing 3/4" (maybe it was 1/2") onto 3/4" plywood for a TV cabinet. The sides of the cabinet were wrapped with 3/4" Qtr Sawn White Oak and the top was wrapped with 3/4" Cathedral grained White Oak (maybe was Red Oak). The Cathedral grain split very badly. However, the Qtr Sw held up quite nicely as was expected due to the nature of the species and cut. I am also banking on the stresses of expansion to be over come by the glue's strength... hopefully linear force generated by end-grain-expansion will not exceed strength of glue. Also hoping 1/4" thickness is thin enough to act more like a veneer rather than a solid thick piece. I believe a very good sealer or some sort of oil finish should serve as a good vapor/moisture barrier. Banking on the finish being able to suppress enough of the moisture ingress, there by limiting the expansion to a point where it is not damaging. Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets?
Swerd said: Try rubbing out the scratches with 0000 steel wool and clear untinted Watco Danish Oil. It may not remove all of the scratches, but it will improve things. The danger with solid hardwood on a closed six-sided cabinet is cracking. The wood will expand and shrink as the humidity changes. MDF has no grain and doesn't expand or shrink, and veneer is more flexible. I don't know what will happen with ¼" hardwood glued over MDF. Those polyurethane foam grills on mine crumbled and turned to dust a long time ago. That happened to everyone. Click to expand... Thanks for the tip on the Danish Oil and extra fine steel wool. You are correct about the nature of wood. I have had success and failure with gluing 3/4" (maybe it was 1/2") onto 3/4" plywood for a TV cabinet. The sides of the cabinet were wrapped with 3/4" Qtr Sawn White Oak and the top was wrapped with 3/4" Cathedral grained White Oak (maybe was Red Oak). The Cathedral grain split very badly. However, the Qtr Sw held up quite nicely as was expected due to the nature of the species and cut. I am also banking on the stresses of expansion to be over come by the glue's strength... hopefully linear force generated by end-grain-expansion will not exceed strength of glue. Also hoping 1/4" thickness is thin enough to act more like a veneer rather than a solid thick piece. I believe a very good sealer or some sort of oil finish should serve as a good vapor/moisture barrier. Banking on the finish being able to suppress enough of the moisture ingress, there by limiting the expansion to a point where it is not damaging. Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets?
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 Apr 28, 2016 #486 roadrune said: Not much happening theese days, but i got both the boxes glued With sides, back and braces, ready for insulation crossovers and terminals.View attachment 18169 View attachment 18170 I do not have enough clamps, so i use everything available to help... View attachment 18171 All the driver holes are cut, hope they fit.... View attachment 18172 Click to expand... roadrune, thanks for the progress report! It's looking great!
roadrune said: Not much happening theese days, but i got both the boxes glued With sides, back and braces, ready for insulation crossovers and terminals.View attachment 18169 View attachment 18170 I do not have enough clamps, so i use everything available to help... View attachment 18171 All the driver holes are cut, hope they fit.... View attachment 18172 Click to expand... roadrune, thanks for the progress report! It's looking great!
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 Apr 29, 2016 #487 FingerlessHackWoodworker said: Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets? Click to expand... You should always go for holy braces, since divine intervention will make the speakers out of this world But really; the original design says square, so they should be good enough, the round ones is more "because we can" Reactions: Swerd
FingerlessHackWoodworker said: Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets? Click to expand... You should always go for holy braces, since divine intervention will make the speakers out of this world But really; the original design says square, so they should be good enough, the round ones is more "because we can"
Swerd Audioholic Warlord Sep 3, 2004 9,610 0 113 Apr 29, 2016 #488 FingerlessHackWoodworker said: You are correct about the nature of wood. I have had success and failure with gluing 3/4" (maybe it was 1/2") onto 3/4" plywood for a TV cabinet. The sides of the cabinet were wrapped with 3/4" Qtr Sawn White Oak and the top was wrapped with 3/4" Cathedral grained White Oak (maybe was Red Oak). The Cathedral grain split very badly. However, the Qtr Sw held up quite nicely as was expected due to the nature of the species and cut. I am also banking on the stresses of expansion to be over come by the glue's strength... hopefully linear force generated by end-grain-expansion will not exceed strength of glue. Also hoping 1/4" thickness is thin enough to act more like a veneer rather than a solid thick piece. I believe a very good sealer or some sort of oil finish should serve as a good vapor/moisture barrier. Banking on the finish being able to suppress enough of the moisture ingress, there by limiting the expansion to a point where it is not damaging. Click to expand... It seems you've had some experience doing this already. Good. I do remember about quarter-sawn white oak being less prone to splitting and maybe is more stable to changes in humidity than straight grain oak. But I've always avoided doing anything like this. FingerlessHackWoodworker said: Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets? Click to expand... I cannot argue with Roadrune's explanation, holy braces lead to divine sounding speakers . Roadrune – when you first listen to your speakers, please tell us whether you hear angels sing, and please also let us know just how many angels you heard. That will help us determine how necessary the round holy braces are . The most important parts about internal cabinet braces are: That they exist. Don't skip them. That they are placed along the length of the cabinet asymmetrically, as shown in the diagram. Don't space them out evenly. That they don't seriously impede the movement of air inside the cabinet. It looks to me that round holy braces and the square ones both get the job done. Do what ever is easiest with the tools you have. Last edited: Apr 29, 2016
FingerlessHackWoodworker said: You are correct about the nature of wood. I have had success and failure with gluing 3/4" (maybe it was 1/2") onto 3/4" plywood for a TV cabinet. The sides of the cabinet were wrapped with 3/4" Qtr Sawn White Oak and the top was wrapped with 3/4" Cathedral grained White Oak (maybe was Red Oak). The Cathedral grain split very badly. However, the Qtr Sw held up quite nicely as was expected due to the nature of the species and cut. I am also banking on the stresses of expansion to be over come by the glue's strength... hopefully linear force generated by end-grain-expansion will not exceed strength of glue. Also hoping 1/4" thickness is thin enough to act more like a veneer rather than a solid thick piece. I believe a very good sealer or some sort of oil finish should serve as a good vapor/moisture barrier. Banking on the finish being able to suppress enough of the moisture ingress, there by limiting the expansion to a point where it is not damaging. Click to expand... It seems you've had some experience doing this already. Good. I do remember about quarter-sawn white oak being less prone to splitting and maybe is more stable to changes in humidity than straight grain oak. But I've always avoided doing anything like this. FingerlessHackWoodworker said: Question about the braces. I have seen two styles in this thread: square and holy ones. Of these two, it would seem to me that the square brackets give adequate strength and plenty air-gap. Any opinions on the square ones vs. the round holy brackets? Click to expand... I cannot argue with Roadrune's explanation, holy braces lead to divine sounding speakers . Roadrune – when you first listen to your speakers, please tell us whether you hear angels sing, and please also let us know just how many angels you heard. That will help us determine how necessary the round holy braces are . The most important parts about internal cabinet braces are: That they exist. Don't skip them. That they are placed along the length of the cabinet asymmetrically, as shown in the diagram. Don't space them out evenly. That they don't seriously impede the movement of air inside the cabinet. It looks to me that round holy braces and the square ones both get the job done. Do what ever is easiest with the tools you have.
Swerd Audioholic Warlord Sep 3, 2004 9,610 0 113 Apr 29, 2016 #489 roadrune said: Hi, i use this bit http://www.precisionbits.com/lock-miter-router-bit-45-degree-large-yonico-15122.html It was a PITA to set up, but offcourse youtube could help Click to expand... I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? I love your work-in-progress photos! Keep posting more. I am envious of your shop and your skills. We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. I believe he lives in Bergen, but I am not sure about that. Haraldo has (apparently) highly developed tastes in speakers, and of course highly developed opinions about them. I, and others, have tried to get him interested in speakers designed by Dennis Murphy, something difficult to do in Norway. I wonder if you are close enough to him, so that he could listen to them one day. Just a thought. Last edited: Apr 29, 2016 Reactions: rojo
roadrune said: Hi, i use this bit http://www.precisionbits.com/lock-miter-router-bit-45-degree-large-yonico-15122.html It was a PITA to set up, but offcourse youtube could help Click to expand... I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? I love your work-in-progress photos! Keep posting more. I am envious of your shop and your skills. We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. I believe he lives in Bergen, but I am not sure about that. Haraldo has (apparently) highly developed tastes in speakers, and of course highly developed opinions about them. I, and others, have tried to get him interested in speakers designed by Dennis Murphy, something difficult to do in Norway. I wonder if you are close enough to him, so that he could listen to them one day. Just a thought.
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 Apr 29, 2016 #490 Swerd said: I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? I love your work-in-progress photos! Keep posting more. I am envious of your shop and your skills. We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. I believe he lives in Bergen, but I am not sure about that. Haraldo has (apparently) highly developed tastes in speakers, and of course highly developed opinions about them. I, and others, have tried to get him interested in speakers designed by Dennis Murphy, something difficult to do in Norway. I wonder if you are close enough to him, so that he could listen to them one day. Just a thought. Click to expand... I would say the lock miter bit need a table, you could do it with a side fence but it would be realle difficult. I see what you mean with mdf, couse the edge following the thickness of the plate is really fragile, but if you are careful its ok. Once its glued its strong as hell. Bergen is my closest "big" city (compared to US cities its small,with a population of about 300.000) and its about an hour and half drive plus 45minutes with a ferry. Really busy this weekend, and tuesday its back to work offshore for a couple of weeks, so i wont finish them for a while Thanks for your kind words, im trying my best Reactions: rojo, Researcher and Swerd
Swerd said: I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? I love your work-in-progress photos! Keep posting more. I am envious of your shop and your skills. We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. I believe he lives in Bergen, but I am not sure about that. Haraldo has (apparently) highly developed tastes in speakers, and of course highly developed opinions about them. I, and others, have tried to get him interested in speakers designed by Dennis Murphy, something difficult to do in Norway. I wonder if you are close enough to him, so that he could listen to them one day. Just a thought. Click to expand... I would say the lock miter bit need a table, you could do it with a side fence but it would be realle difficult. I see what you mean with mdf, couse the edge following the thickness of the plate is really fragile, but if you are careful its ok. Once its glued its strong as hell. Bergen is my closest "big" city (compared to US cities its small,with a population of about 300.000) and its about an hour and half drive plus 45minutes with a ferry. Really busy this weekend, and tuesday its back to work offshore for a couple of weeks, so i wont finish them for a while Thanks for your kind words, im trying my best
R Researcher Enthusiast Sep 1, 2015 19 0 3 43 Apr 29, 2016 #491 roadrune said: They are built for a cinema, however i dont have anything else than the amp yet, so obviously i will test them in my livingroom once they are finished, and then on a Hegel H80. Do they sell Hegel in the US? Fantastic amps, made in Norway. Click to expand... Never heard of Hegel, but I've been reading some reviews, and that particular amp seems to be a very decent piece of hardware. Great pics, keep them coming!, are you planning to veneer, paint, bare MDF ???
roadrune said: They are built for a cinema, however i dont have anything else than the amp yet, so obviously i will test them in my livingroom once they are finished, and then on a Hegel H80. Do they sell Hegel in the US? Fantastic amps, made in Norway. Click to expand... Never heard of Hegel, but I've been reading some reviews, and that particular amp seems to be a very decent piece of hardware. Great pics, keep them coming!, are you planning to veneer, paint, bare MDF ???
Alex2507 Audioholic Slumlord Dec 29, 2006 18,125 0 113 Nunya Bidness Apr 29, 2016 #492 Swerd said: I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? Click to expand... To me it looked like he used them on MDF. I could maybe see particle board not doing well with that bit but MDF should take a profile without a hitch. I think I know that but you know, the 80's ... We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. Click to expand... Don't let him in your house. Reactions: rojo
Swerd said: I always was told that bits like that work poorly with MDF. They apparently work well with plywood or hardwood. I've never tried them. Do they require a router table? Click to expand... To me it looked like he used them on MDF. I could maybe see particle board not doing well with that bit but MDF should take a profile without a hitch. I think I know that but you know, the 80's ... We have one regular here at Audioholics who is from Norway, Haraldo. Click to expand... Don't let him in your house.
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 Apr 29, 2016 #493 Researcher said: Never heard of Hegel, but I've been reading some reviews, and that particular amp seems to be a very decent piece of hardware. Great pics, keep them coming!, are you planning to veneer, paint, bare MDF ??? Click to expand... I have no idea, but right now im leaning to high gloss black with grilles covering the entire baffle.
Researcher said: Never heard of Hegel, but I've been reading some reviews, and that particular amp seems to be a very decent piece of hardware. Great pics, keep them coming!, are you planning to veneer, paint, bare MDF ??? Click to expand... I have no idea, but right now im leaning to high gloss black with grilles covering the entire baffle.
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 Apr 30, 2016 #494 roadrune said: You should always go for holy braces, since divine intervention will make the speakers out of this world But really; the original design says square, so they should be good enough, the round ones is more "because we can" Click to expand... Laughed Out Loud I suppose I have always been a pretty square guy and the square one seems to speak to me.
roadrune said: You should always go for holy braces, since divine intervention will make the speakers out of this world But really; the original design says square, so they should be good enough, the round ones is more "because we can" Click to expand... Laughed Out Loud I suppose I have always been a pretty square guy and the square one seems to speak to me.
Swerd Audioholic Warlord Sep 3, 2004 9,610 0 113 Apr 30, 2016 #495 roadrune said: … and tuesday its back to work offshore for a couple of weeks, so i wont finish them for a while Click to expand... Heard about the helicopter crash that took place. If you are flying to an offshore location, we wish you safe flying.
roadrune said: … and tuesday its back to work offshore for a couple of weeks, so i wont finish them for a while Click to expand... Heard about the helicopter crash that took place. If you are flying to an offshore location, we wish you safe flying.
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 Apr 30, 2016 #496 Got a good start today. Inner cabinet walls have been cut to widths. Hopefully tomorrow can cut to length and rabbit joint. Reactions: rojo and Swerd
Got a good start today. Inner cabinet walls have been cut to widths. Hopefully tomorrow can cut to length and rabbit joint.
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 Apr 30, 2016 #497 Swerd said: The most important parts about internal cabinet braces are: That they exist. Don't skip them. That they are placed along the length of the cabinet asymmetrically, as shown in the diagram. Don't space them out evenly. That they don't seriously impede the movement of air inside the cabinet. It looks to me that round holy braces and the square ones both get the job done. Do what ever is easiest with the tools you have. Click to expand... Swerd, thanks for the feedback! Last edited: Apr 30, 2016
Swerd said: The most important parts about internal cabinet braces are: That they exist. Don't skip them. That they are placed along the length of the cabinet asymmetrically, as shown in the diagram. Don't space them out evenly. That they don't seriously impede the movement of air inside the cabinet. It looks to me that round holy braces and the square ones both get the job done. Do what ever is easiest with the tools you have. Click to expand... Swerd, thanks for the feedback!
R roadrune Audioholic Mar 20, 2016 143 0 28 49 May 1, 2016 #498 Swerd said: Heard about the helicopter crash that took place. If you are flying to an offshore location, we wish you safe flying. Click to expand... Yes, i am flying, but in a different heli (Sikorsky s-92), never really liked flying that much, and this definativly didnt help. That sayd its the first fatal offshoreheli accident in Norway for almost 20 years, so its about the safest way to travel. Really sad for those involved anyway.
Swerd said: Heard about the helicopter crash that took place. If you are flying to an offshore location, we wish you safe flying. Click to expand... Yes, i am flying, but in a different heli (Sikorsky s-92), never really liked flying that much, and this definativly didnt help. That sayd its the first fatal offshoreheli accident in Norway for almost 20 years, so its about the safest way to travel. Really sad for those involved anyway.
H highfigh Seriously, I have no life. Sep 14, 2008 24,207 0 113 May 1, 2016 #499 roadrune said: Thanks. Then i'll stand clear of oak and go for veneer. I'm thinking bi-amp since my plan is to build a 7-channel amp, and a cheap and great diy amp is the 2x50w 3116, so i thought i could use 7 of those were i use the same input for 2 and 2 channels, making it 7-channels in but 14 outputs divided in 7 channels (hope this is possible to understand) Click to expand... If Oak is easier to buy than MDF or other materials, you can use it without needing to worry about resonances by placing the grain of one layer perpendicular to the other. I don't know if you way a way to mill it to 1/2", but that would make a very stiff panel. Well glued, that would be stiffer than MDF. Reactions: Swerd
roadrune said: Thanks. Then i'll stand clear of oak and go for veneer. I'm thinking bi-amp since my plan is to build a 7-channel amp, and a cheap and great diy amp is the 2x50w 3116, so i thought i could use 7 of those were i use the same input for 2 and 2 channels, making it 7-channels in but 14 outputs divided in 7 channels (hope this is possible to understand) Click to expand... If Oak is easier to buy than MDF or other materials, you can use it without needing to worry about resonances by placing the grain of one layer perpendicular to the other. I don't know if you way a way to mill it to 1/2", but that would make a very stiff panel. Well glued, that would be stiffer than MDF.
F FingerlessHackWoodworker Audioholic Intern Apr 24, 2016 32 0 8 May 1, 2016 #500 Tip on moving those bloody awkward 3/4" MDF sheets. For those who have never seen this handy little device: (CAUTION, make sure the joint between Stretcher and Load pieces is strongly bonded (long and thicker than standard dry wall screw and glue if you like)... this joint should not consist of any of these pieces being MDF, chip board, or like. I had one of these pieces made from chip board and secured with dry wall screws. Joint failed and luckily did not break my toe, but lost a toe nail. I hate MDF. However, it serves its purpose for speakers.) As The Samurai Carpenter says, "Get out there and build something." Last edited: May 1, 2016 Reactions: Swerd
Tip on moving those bloody awkward 3/4" MDF sheets. For those who have never seen this handy little device: (CAUTION, make sure the joint between Stretcher and Load pieces is strongly bonded (long and thicker than standard dry wall screw and glue if you like)... this joint should not consist of any of these pieces being MDF, chip board, or like. I had one of these pieces made from chip board and secured with dry wall screws. Joint failed and luckily did not break my toe, but lost a toe nail. I hate MDF. However, it serves its purpose for speakers.) As The Samurai Carpenter says, "Get out there and build something."
