
Pogre
Audioholic Slumlord
Is that frequency range +/- 3db?
Yes it is.Is that frequency range +/- 3db?
Those have got to be the sturdiest cabinets I have ever seen. Very nice. Gave me some ideas.![]()
It really sounds very, very complicated, can one picture with your version...Thank You!I am not a fan of MDF. It has no directional-structural stability. There is a plastic sheet material we use at work that shares the same condition. I end up encasing aluminum in it. In the case of MDF. . . . plywood backers/cores or stiffeners. The amount of framing it takes to keep this material from becoming a starved horse, really negates any savings with it.
A very, very underestimated moment - work with multilayer MDF!There's still a lot of work on the stands.
I show you a few pictures of the front speaker bases, the rear speaker stands will look like the same;
View attachment 22972View attachment 22973View attachment 22974View attachment 22975
Always been a problem with the MDF, especially when we have a multilayer construction. Over time, individual parts are beginning to show up - all of this is the result of improper processing. Soon I will show you how to deal with this problem.
I have worked with laminations and composites many years. One way around it is to use wood veneers with the layers grain direction on diagonal bias with reference to the framing. They cold mold some fine and fair sailing hulls in this manner.A very, very underestimated moment - work with multilayer MDF!
I show you a German site, that offers such "DIY loudspeakers -cabinet " and please for your attention, they want money for such a product;
View attachment 24641
Actually, the problem with the "seasonal" movement of the MDF material, I have long decided by my way (please see item 107), but this method requires a lot of effort and financial assets!I have worked with laminations and composites many years. One way around it is to use wood veneers with the layers grain direction on diagonal bias with reference to the framing. They cold mold some fine and fair sailing hulls in this manner.
And when one can't avoid this, a long sanding board across the high places.
Where I live, we have great fluctuations in humidity beyond 90% and perhaps 30-40% in Winter months. I seal all exposed MDF with thinned epoxy unless it is getting unbacked veneer. I have sealed some cabinets under veneer with epoxy, but this would mean that raw, "unbacked" veneer would have to be adhered with epoxy as well for a compatible bond. Because of this humidity changes, raw veneer can creep/ripple over time when using softer adhesives such as contact cement, so special, hard setting, veneer glue is recommended.Actually, the problem with the "seasonal" movement of the MDF material, I have long decided by my way (please see item 107), but this method requires a lot of effort and financial assets!
I would have to agree, you are likely in the most challenging environment with humidity as a concern.Where I live, we have great fluctuations in humidity beyond 90% and perhaps 30-40% in Winter months. I seal all exposed MDF with thinned epoxy unless it is getting unbacked veneer. I have sealed some cabinets under veneer with epoxy, but this would mean that raw, "unbacked" veneer would have to be adhered with epoxy as well for a compatible bond. Because of this humidity changes, raw veneer can creep/ripple over time when using softer adhesives such as contact cement, so special, hard setting, veneer glue is recommended.
No matter how one approaches such things or great finishes, you always pay the full amount somewhere in the process and typically in the preparations. There is no shortcuts! I notice I have no friends when the blocks and sandpaper are in hand!