helppp!! not new to car audio but stuck on this...

[tattoo_Dan]

Or, you could ask them here.

 

[annunaki]

Adding a higher rated battery than the car is designed to use will cause the battery to overcharge. It will swell, and eventually burst.

This is not true. The cold cranking amperage a battery is capable of is almost always relative to its physical size. The only time this is generally different is when you get into sealed type batteries. Adding in a larger capacity battery will not cause an issue so long as it fits in the dedicated battery tray and can be secured properly. The car cares not what type of load capacity the battery has so long as it is sufficient for the vehicle's electronics. If there is more the car will not use it, but if there is less, well then there will be an issue. If anything it could cause slightly more strain on a vehicle's alternator, but rarely would it be cycled down low enough on a regular basis to be an issue. If anything a second battery is MORE taxing and puts more strain on an alternator than does a slightly larger CCA battery.

Another point is the cars electronics. Power windows, lights, turn signals, wipers, and so on. A voltage drop during the use of any of these can also cause the electric motor/parts to fail.

The parts won't fail they simply won't work if the voltage is too low. If the voltage on a power window motor is too low, it simply will not operate. Or if it does, it does so very slowly. If what you stated were true, and the battery was dying on a normal car (no car audio system installed) lets say voltage was down to 11.0V DC, the items you suggest when used would all start failing.


My original post in this thread is where the OP should start.
1. Upgrade the "Big 3".
2. Upgrade to a minimum of 4 ga. power & ground cables.
3. And add at least 2.0 million microfarads of capacitance.

Then, if there are issues with dimming lights, etc. upgrade the alternator to as big as can be afforded for the vehicle (in terms of amperage). Only then, after that point, would I consider adding a second battery on a relay.

I have run a system in a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix with a from the factory 105A alternator and 1600 conservatively rated continuous watts of JL Audio amplifiers. I upgraded the battery to stinger 900 CCA battery, upgraded the "Big 3" to 0ga wiring along with the power & ground cables. I also used an Alumapro "CAP" which was 15 million mfd. I NEVER had any voltages issues with that system, or the within the car itself, even when the system was at maximum volume.

Assuming his amplifier will actually do 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm, that is equivalent to 69.44 Amperes of current with 100% efficiency at 14.4 volts (typical vehicle charging voltage). Since this is a class D amplifier we will assume 70% efficiency to be conservative. This means that this amplifier will require 1429 watts of electrical power to make 1000 watts of output power.

With 14.4 volts this means 99.24 amperes. With 12.5 volts this increases to 114.32 amperes. However with music playing at a moderate volume, even if bass heavy, at best the amplifier will be drawing about 30% of this continuously. Remember music is dynamic and does not require constant draw. So at 12.5 volts (figuring worst case scenario) with music, the amplifier will be drawing about 34.3 amperes of power. This is generally well within what the capacitor and battery can handle on a consistent basis, and the alternator as well.

 

[zumbo]

The car:
'85 Toyota Supra.

The system:
Alpine tape deck.(time period).
Audio Control 2XS.
Linear Power 2202.(x2) Kicker Comp 12's.(x2)
Linear Power 952. MB Quart separates.
Linear Power 652. Alpine plates.
4AWG power and ground.
Proper fuse and ground blocks.

No Farad Cap.
No modded alternator.

Killed two stock spec batteries. Killed stock alternator. After the second battery and alternator died, I added a 1000CCA battery. After several years of success, I noticed it swelling. Took car to an auto electric business, and they informed me of the information I am passing-on here. Battery was about to explode. After many years of pleasure with the car, I pulled the system.

Didn't build another big system until seven years, and a couple of vehicles later. This was the system in my '98 Silverado. A simple battery isolator, second battery, and no worries. No lights dimming, and no slow windows(which is bad on electric motors, and will make them fail).

Many systems, and many vehicles later, it has been the best solution for me. A second battery, and a battery isolator, are just as easy to install as a farad cap. IMO, it's a much better solution.

OTOH, I think our OP has left the building. Sent him a PM in the AM, and have not received one back.

On a side note, I still have the MB Quart speakers from my '85 Supra. They are in proper working order. I also have the Alpine plates. They are rotted.

I don't use big subs these days. I need the room for kid stuff, and prefer to hear my Quarts without anything muddying them up.

 

[zumbo]

Also, due to the cost of vehicles, and the extensive electronics used throughout, huge subs and amps are just not worth it for my situation.

I guess when my daughter gets her first beater, I may re-live the boom days. Til then.....

 

[killakilck123]

JL too expensive

I like JL but they a little out of my price range.. im looking for sum bang for about 150 or 200 for both subs.. without box

 

[killakilck123]

how about less watts...?

ok how about this. what is a good sub that i can run at 4ohms that will pound the very hardest at the 475w? ... lik this guy said 100w ran gud is enough. well 475 ran good shud be straight then right. What are sum good subs at this power that will pound a lot louder then this crappy duals? bcuz then maybe i wont have to get rid of this new wiring kit..

 

[killakilck123]

ok so if i want to run my amp at 2ohms then can you give me a link to some subs that will hit real hard at around 150-200 for the pair??? also what wiring kit?

 

[annunaki]

The car:
'85 Toyota Supra.

The system:
Alpine tape deck.(time period).
Audio Control 2XS.
Linear Power 2202.(x2) Kicker Comp 12's.(x2)
Linear Power 952. MB Quart separates.
Linear Power 652. Alpine plates.
4AWG power and ground.
Proper fuse and ground blocks.

No Farad Cap.
No modded alternator.

Killed two stock spec batteries. Killed stock alternator. After the second battery and alternator died, I added a 1000CCA battery. After several years of success, I noticed it swelling. Took car to an auto electric business, and they informed me of the information I am passing-on here. Battery was about to explode. After many years of pleasure with the car, I pulled the system.

Didn't build another big system until seven years, and a couple of vehicles later. This was the system in my '98 Silverado. A simple battery isolator, second battery, and no worries. No lights dimming, and no slow windows(which is bad on electric motors, and will make them fail).

Many systems, and many vehicles later, it has been the best solution for me. A second battery, and a battery isolator, are just as easy to install as a farad cap. IMO, it's a much better solution.

OTOH, I think our OP has left the building. Sent him a PM in the AM, and have not received one back.

On a side note, I still have the MB Quart speakers from my '85 Supra. They are in proper working order. I also have the Alpine plates. They are rotted.

I don't use big subs these days. I need the room for kid stuff, and prefer to hear my Quarts without anything muddying them up.

I am curious did you replace the alternator at the same time your battery failed?

If a battery is failing for some time, it will cause an alternator to fail as well since it will not hold a charge. This can cause a vicious cycle of constant replacement of both components. Also if the wiring is inadequate with the "Big 3" it can cause significant voltage loss also causing problems.

Also the amplifiers you had were excellent amplifiers. However, they were known as current hogs! They were in the 45%-50% efficiency range at full power. They were some of the best "cheater" amplifiers for competitions too. Completely unregulated design with their power ratings at 12.5 volts with ridiculously low distortion. great amplifiers though!!

 

[zumbo]

I am curious did you replace the alternator at the same time your battery failed?

On the third battery replacement, the alternator had died. I replaced the alternator(stock) with the 1000CCA battery.

If a battery is failing for some time, it will cause an alternator to fail as well since it will not hold a charge. This can cause a vicious cycle of constant replacement of both components. Also if the wiring is inadequate with the "Big 3" it can cause significant voltage loss also causing problems.

I believe the system was the problem. It was just too much for the car. All the wiring was 4 gauge, and proper ground to the floor pan of the car.(paint removed)

Also the amplifiers you had were excellent amplifiers. However, they were known as current hogs! They were in the 45%-50% efficiency range at full power. They were some of the best "cheater" amplifiers for competitions too. Completely unregulated design with their power ratings at 12.5 volts with ridiculously low distortion. great amplifiers though!!

They were the best. I sold the last two I had a little over a year ago. Got more than I paid for them in '89. Using JL / now. Not near as hard on the electrical.

 

[zumbo]

ok so if i want to run my amp at 2ohms then can you give me a link to some subs that will hit real hard at around 150-200 for the pair??? also what wiring kit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-JBL-GTO1214-12-Car-Audio-Subwoofers-2800w-Pair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f963e2c7QQitemZ300536816327QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo

http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/showsearchresults.asp?pageStyle=L&resultCnt=36&keyword=4+gauge+amplifier+wiring+kit

 

[zumbo]

I don't know how good Kicker is these days, but they were good back in my day. Late 80's, early 90's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-KICKER-10C124-12-COMP-CAR-SUBWOOFERS-C12-10C12-/390260585963?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5add57f5eb

 

[zumbo]

Found lower line JL. I prefer JL.

I do like the fact that the JBL subs I listed previously have rubber surround. Let's see what others say. The JBL may be a better buy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-JL-AUDIO-12W0v2-4-12-CAR-AUDIO-SUBWOOFERS-SUBS-W0v2-/170615801679?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item27b97e874f

 

[tattoo_Dan]

I don't know how good Kicker is these days, but they were good back in my day. Late 80's, early 90's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-KICKER-10C124-12-COMP-CAR-SUBWOOFERS-C12-10C12-/390260585963?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5add57f5eb

I put them in all the time,they work and sound great IMO,
.
.
.

(I have been professionally installing since 1978)

 

[zumbo]

On the amp kit subject, it's best to buy each component separately.

You are certain to get the length of bare wire you need, and no extra BS.

Relays.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Relays-c12.htm

Batteries.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Dry-Cell-c9.htm

Fuse holders.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Fuse-Holders-c28.htm?pageStyle=p&ProdSort=1&page=4&idCategory=28&viewAll=yes

Bare wire.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Wire-c44.htm

Caps.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Capacitors-c15.htm

 

[zumbo]

If you want to shock your friends, and get something a little different, you could try CDT. Quality products that are getting a lot of attention.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CDT-AUDIO-EF-120-NEW-12-CAST-ALLOY-600-WATT-SUBWOOFER-/120611743614?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item1c1505277e

Company info:
http://www.cdtaudio.com/about.htm

 

[killakilck123]

whats so shocking about this one?

 

[killakilck123]

do i NEED this kit? with these subs? or can i use the 8 awg one that i have? (its in the original thread.) bcuz it was memphis and about $75 and i dont want that to have been a waste u know..

 

[killakilck123]

i like the JLs you posted they were the 12W0v2-4 12"... they run at 4 ohms could i keep the same kit if i use these ones??

 

[zumbo]

whats so shocking about this one?

1) None of your friends will have them.
2) They just may outperform the others.
3) The materials used are higher quality materials than the others in this price-range.

 

[zumbo]

do i NEED this kit? with these subs? or can i use the 8 awg one that i have? (its in the original thread.) bcuz it was memphis and about $75 and i dont want that to have been a waste u know..

8 AWG is not enough. Sell it, and buy items separately as I recommended.

On the amp kit subject, it's best to buy each component separately.

You are certain to get the length of bare wire you need, and no extra BS.

Relays.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Relays-c12.htm

Batteries.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Dry-Cell-c9.htm

Fuse holders.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Fuse-Holders-c28.htm?pageStyle=p&ProdSort=1&page=4&idCategory=28&viewAll=yes

Bare wire.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Wire-c44.htm

Caps.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Capacitors-c15.htm