killdozzer Audioholic Samurai Feb 5, 2014 2,419 0 83 May 21, 2019 #1 Can this be used to repair a remote that lost some functions? Some buttons need a hard press, or won't react the first time. I was planing to open the remote and check whether the gray layer had been worn out. If so, I'd cut out a stencil for the areas that would require resurfacing and spray over the stencil.
Can this be used to repair a remote that lost some functions? Some buttons need a hard press, or won't react the first time. I was planing to open the remote and check whether the gray layer had been worn out. If so, I'd cut out a stencil for the areas that would require resurfacing and spray over the stencil.
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 22, 2019 #2 killdozzer said: Can this be used to repair a remote that lost some functions? Some buttons need a hard press, or won't react the first time. I was planing to open the remote and check whether the gray layer had been worn out. If so, I'd cut out a stencil for the areas that would require resurfacing and spray over the stencil. Click to expand... I have no idea what product you are talking about, but your plan seems dubious at best. Take it apart and clean the contacts and the carbon pads with Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. It would likely be good to hit the PCB and the rubber with a few blasts of compressed air first to blow out any debris. Check the area where the rubber protrudes up into the button cutouts for any grime and clean that too. Look for lots of debris from the carbon pads that may indicate wear. Look for signs of previous liquid spills. I have done this too many times to count for various gaming controllers, normal routine. Reactions: KEW
killdozzer said: Can this be used to repair a remote that lost some functions? Some buttons need a hard press, or won't react the first time. I was planing to open the remote and check whether the gray layer had been worn out. If so, I'd cut out a stencil for the areas that would require resurfacing and spray over the stencil. Click to expand... I have no idea what product you are talking about, but your plan seems dubious at best. Take it apart and clean the contacts and the carbon pads with Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. It would likely be good to hit the PCB and the rubber with a few blasts of compressed air first to blow out any debris. Check the area where the rubber protrudes up into the button cutouts for any grime and clean that too. Look for lots of debris from the carbon pads that may indicate wear. Look for signs of previous liquid spills. I have done this too many times to count for various gaming controllers, normal routine.
killdozzer Audioholic Samurai Feb 5, 2014 2,419 0 83 May 22, 2019 #3 slipperybidness said: I have no idea what product you are talking about, but your plan seems dubious at best. Take it apart and clean the contacts and the carbon pads with Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. It would likely be good to hit the PCB and the rubber with a few blasts of compressed air first to blow out any debris. Check the area where the rubber protrudes up into the button cutouts for any grime and clean that too. Look for lots of debris from the carbon pads that may indicate wear. Look for signs of previous liquid spills. I have done this too many times to count for various gaming controllers, normal routine. Click to expand... Well, thanks a lot. I'll try that. Rubber keys do make contact over a layer of graphite, do they not? This Graphit33 is what I have in mind: It is a spray that creates a conductive surface.
slipperybidness said: I have no idea what product you are talking about, but your plan seems dubious at best. Take it apart and clean the contacts and the carbon pads with Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-tip. It would likely be good to hit the PCB and the rubber with a few blasts of compressed air first to blow out any debris. Check the area where the rubber protrudes up into the button cutouts for any grime and clean that too. Look for lots of debris from the carbon pads that may indicate wear. Look for signs of previous liquid spills. I have done this too many times to count for various gaming controllers, normal routine. Click to expand... Well, thanks a lot. I'll try that. Rubber keys do make contact over a layer of graphite, do they not? This Graphit33 is what I have in mind: It is a spray that creates a conductive surface.
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 22, 2019 #4 killdozzer said: Well, thanks a lot. I'll try that. Rubber keys do make contact over a layer of graphite, do they not? This Graphit33 is what I have in mind: It is a spray that creates a conductive surface. Click to expand... My concern with the spray is how well it would/would not adhere to the existing surface. It may cause more problems and debris than it would fix. If you go that route, then do some testing of your own on something other than the remote, before you proceed down that path. I have always heard this part called "carbon pads". Graphite is a very particular type carbon structure, and I cannot say for certain that the "carbon pads" are really "graphite pads". I'm telling you, follow the procedures that I outlined above. I have had success with this many times over the years for gaming controllers, and these devices continuously see heavier abuse especially from children. I have yet to come across a single instance where the carbon pads have been worn completely away. I have seen instances where the copper traces on the PCB have shown decades of wear and tear, but the carbon pads were still fine.
killdozzer said: Well, thanks a lot. I'll try that. Rubber keys do make contact over a layer of graphite, do they not? This Graphit33 is what I have in mind: It is a spray that creates a conductive surface. Click to expand... My concern with the spray is how well it would/would not adhere to the existing surface. It may cause more problems and debris than it would fix. If you go that route, then do some testing of your own on something other than the remote, before you proceed down that path. I have always heard this part called "carbon pads". Graphite is a very particular type carbon structure, and I cannot say for certain that the "carbon pads" are really "graphite pads". I'm telling you, follow the procedures that I outlined above. I have had success with this many times over the years for gaming controllers, and these devices continuously see heavier abuse especially from children. I have yet to come across a single instance where the carbon pads have been worn completely away. I have seen instances where the copper traces on the PCB have shown decades of wear and tear, but the carbon pads were still fine.
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 22, 2019 #5 @killdozzer A small sample of my credentials: https://forums.audioholics.com/foru...nd-360-modded-controllers.96451/#post-1099121
@killdozzer A small sample of my credentials: https://forums.audioholics.com/foru...nd-360-modded-controllers.96451/#post-1099121
killdozzer Audioholic Samurai Feb 5, 2014 2,419 0 83 May 22, 2019 #6 slipperybidness said: @killdozzer A small sample of my credentials: https://forums.audioholics.com/foru...nd-360-modded-controllers.96451/#post-1099121 Click to expand... Oh, no need! I hold you in high regards. What I try to do is prepare for more than one scenario, when I open the remote, if it's not dirty I want to be ready to try something else. If you say it's not necessary, I beleive you. And thank you!! I always appreciated getting tips and advice from you.
slipperybidness said: @killdozzer A small sample of my credentials: https://forums.audioholics.com/foru...nd-360-modded-controllers.96451/#post-1099121 Click to expand... Oh, no need! I hold you in high regards. What I try to do is prepare for more than one scenario, when I open the remote, if it's not dirty I want to be ready to try something else. If you say it's not necessary, I beleive you. And thank you!! I always appreciated getting tips and advice from you.
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 22, 2019 #7 killdozzer said: Oh, no need! I hold you in high regards. What I try to do is prepare for more than one scenario, when I open the remote, if it's not dirty I want to be ready to try something else. If you say it's not necessary, I beleive you. And thank you!! I always appreciated getting tips and advice from you. Click to expand... Well, "trying something else", my first thought would be to glue some aluminum foil to the pad. But, if it is needed, your graphite spray idea may work out better. I've just never seen or used that stuff before. Reactions: killdozzer
killdozzer said: Oh, no need! I hold you in high regards. What I try to do is prepare for more than one scenario, when I open the remote, if it's not dirty I want to be ready to try something else. If you say it's not necessary, I beleive you. And thank you!! I always appreciated getting tips and advice from you. Click to expand... Well, "trying something else", my first thought would be to glue some aluminum foil to the pad. But, if it is needed, your graphite spray idea may work out better. I've just never seen or used that stuff before.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 22, 2019 #8 I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). It worked a little. There's this stuff on Amazon that I'd try the next time a remote starts to go wonky (and I've got one that's starting to so that may be soon).
I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). It worked a little. There's this stuff on Amazon that I'd try the next time a remote starts to go wonky (and I've got one that's starting to so that may be soon).
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 22, 2019 #9 lovinthehd said: I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). It worked a little. There's this stuff on Amazon that I'd try the next time a remote starts to go wonky (and I've got one that's starting to so that may be soon). Click to expand... This doesn't look like a bad option either. https://www.amazon.com/ButtonWorx-R...VEQKW2JMWTM&psc=1&refRID=5RRC00W33VEQKW2JMWTM
lovinthehd said: I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). It worked a little. There's this stuff on Amazon that I'd try the next time a remote starts to go wonky (and I've got one that's starting to so that may be soon). Click to expand... This doesn't look like a bad option either. https://www.amazon.com/ButtonWorx-R...VEQKW2JMWTM&psc=1&refRID=5RRC00W33VEQKW2JMWTM
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 22, 2019 #10 Or this stuff from the Deoxit folk https://www.amazon.com/CaiKot-Condu...=B003D8G8SY&psc=1&refRID=84V14QCB0ZEM2K4QX598
Or this stuff from the Deoxit folk https://www.amazon.com/CaiKot-Condu...=B003D8G8SY&psc=1&refRID=84V14QCB0ZEM2K4QX598
killdozzer Audioholic Samurai Feb 5, 2014 2,419 0 83 May 22, 2019 #11 lovinthehd said: I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). Click to expand... And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea.
lovinthehd said: I've tried the pencil trick to revitalize the connection on an older remote (a Harmony). Click to expand... And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 22, 2019 #12 killdozzer said: And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea. Click to expand... After reading up on how these types of buttons work...seems logical, eh?
killdozzer said: And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea. Click to expand... After reading up on how these types of buttons work...seems logical, eh?
Verdinut Audioholic Spartan Aug 31, 2016 5,998 0 113 86 Montreal, Canada May 22, 2019 #13 lovinthehd said: Or this stuff from the Deoxit folk https://www.amazon.com/CaiKot-Condu...=B003D8G8SY&psc=1&refRID=84V14QCB0ZEM2K4QX598 Click to expand... I don't think this Conductive Silver stuff would work. It would short the various resistances provided by a control or short the various remote control contacts together.
lovinthehd said: Or this stuff from the Deoxit folk https://www.amazon.com/CaiKot-Condu...=B003D8G8SY&psc=1&refRID=84V14QCB0ZEM2K4QX598 Click to expand... I don't think this Conductive Silver stuff would work. It would short the various resistances provided by a control or short the various remote control contacts together.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 22, 2019 #14 Verdinut said: I don't think this Conductive Silver stuff would work. It would short the various resistances provided by a control or short the various remote control contacts together. Click to expand... How so? You prefer one of the other items discussed so far? Have you used any?
Verdinut said: I don't think this Conductive Silver stuff would work. It would short the various resistances provided by a control or short the various remote control contacts together. Click to expand... How so? You prefer one of the other items discussed so far? Have you used any?
Verdinut Audioholic Spartan Aug 31, 2016 5,998 0 113 86 Montreal, Canada May 22, 2019 #15 lovinthehd said: How so? You prefer one of the other items discussed so far? Have you used any? Click to expand... That product which has been existing for the last 40 years, acts as a jumper and was used to repair things such as damaged rear car window defroster wires. So far, I haven't used such items. Last edited: May 23, 2019
lovinthehd said: How so? You prefer one of the other items discussed so far? Have you used any? Click to expand... That product which has been existing for the last 40 years, acts as a jumper and was used to repair things such as damaged rear car window defroster wires. So far, I haven't used such items.
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 22, 2019 #16 Verdinut said: That product which has been existing for the last 40 years, acts as a jumper and was used to repair things such as the damaged rear car window defroster wires. So far, I haven't used such items. Click to expand... All you need do is coat the part of the button mechanism that conducts.....this stuff particularly IIRC was recommended by some of the sites discussing remote repair. I'll take a chance on it and let ya know! Reactions: Verdinut
Verdinut said: That product which has been existing for the last 40 years, acts as a jumper and was used to repair things such as the damaged rear car window defroster wires. So far, I haven't used such items. Click to expand... All you need do is coat the part of the button mechanism that conducts.....this stuff particularly IIRC was recommended by some of the sites discussing remote repair. I'll take a chance on it and let ya know!
slipperybidness Audioholic Warlord Jul 24, 2011 7,946 0 113 May 23, 2019 #17 lovinthehd said: All you need do is coat the part of the button mechanism that conducts.....this stuff particularly IIRC was recommended by some of the sites discussing remote repair. I'll take a chance on it and let ya know! Click to expand... Well, the 2nd review on that item just says to do what I suggested in post #2 from the review: You're better off just cleaning contacts and PCB with 90% IPA
lovinthehd said: All you need do is coat the part of the button mechanism that conducts.....this stuff particularly IIRC was recommended by some of the sites discussing remote repair. I'll take a chance on it and let ya know! Click to expand... Well, the 2nd review on that item just says to do what I suggested in post #2 from the review: You're better off just cleaning contacts and PCB with 90% IPA
lovinthehd Audioholic Jedi Sep 11, 2012 44,890 0 113 Oakridge, OR May 23, 2019 #18 slipperybidness said: Well, the 2nd review on that item just says to do what I suggested in post #2 from the review: You're better off just cleaning contacts and PCB with 90% IPA Click to expand... Maybe it depends on the remote/type of button.....the contacts on some of these buttons in my Harmony 650, the only contact was the coating....cleaning it off would make it worse. (i.e. it was the coating wearing off that causes the button not to work correctly).
slipperybidness said: Well, the 2nd review on that item just says to do what I suggested in post #2 from the review: You're better off just cleaning contacts and PCB with 90% IPA Click to expand... Maybe it depends on the remote/type of button.....the contacts on some of these buttons in my Harmony 650, the only contact was the coating....cleaning it off would make it worse. (i.e. it was the coating wearing off that causes the button not to work correctly).
H highfigh Seriously, I have no life. Sep 14, 2008 24,221 0 113 May 25, 2019 #19 killdozzer said: And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea. Click to expand... I think this spray is probably intended for static dissipation.
killdozzer said: And that's the origin of the graphite spray idea. Click to expand... I think this spray is probably intended for static dissipation.
killdozzer Audioholic Samurai Feb 5, 2014 2,419 0 83 May 25, 2019 #20 highfigh said: I think this spray is probably intended for static dissipation. Click to expand... Found it!!!! Ha!! Not so dubious now! Guys, when will you stop underestimating me?
highfigh said: I think this spray is probably intended for static dissipation. Click to expand... Found it!!!! Ha!! Not so dubious now! Guys, when will you stop underestimating me?
