Exclusive Denon AVR-3805 First Look!

[rumpletskin]

Zone 3 set-up problems -AVR 3805

I was hoping someone could help me through this issue cuz its driving me nuts!.
I just hooked up a pair of patio speakers to the "Surr.Back/Multi Zone Preout terminals. Selected Zone 3 under the Power Amp Assign. Didn't mess with the Zone2 vol setting or the Trigger 1/2 Output settings. Changed the input to Zone 3 - Increased the Volume- and still no sound.
What am I doing Wrong ??

Thanks
Rump

 

[rumpletskin]

Nirvana !!

Eureka!!
I was using a digital optical cable and thats why Zone2/3 were not working. Attached a regular RCA cable and Voila!!

Sorry for being a pain!
Best Regds.

Rump

 

[Jason Coleman]

Geez Rump...you're a real pain in the...well, you know!

Yeah, the Zone 2 and 3 won't pass digital signals, only analog (which is a bummer that we'll all have to live with). I'm glad that you got yours working. I'll try to hook up some Zone 3 action later this summer with speakers in the kitchen.

Jason

 

[BobBart]

When running the auto eq at what decibel level does the 3805 set the channel levels to at 0 on the master volume? On my 2805 it set the channels to 85db at 0 volume. The levels ended up being FL-10.5, FR=11, C= 11, SR=8.5 and SL=9.
My fronts aren't the most effecient but I was using a Harman Kardon avr210 at 40watts channel and to get 85db I the channel levels were around 1 or 2.

 

[steve.m]

Hi Steve,

I have just tried my 3805 and my input lights only light when playing back Dolby Digital or DTS.

Playing CD's, iPod, TV, mini disc basically anything analogue only lights up the left, right and SW output lights the input lights stay off.

Glad yours does the same as mine as I was wondering about the situation myself.

Stu

Stu,
Thanks for info. I take it from your reply that they don't light even when a digital PCM signal is sent from your DVD or CD players. Strange that they would have this feature but have it that it only works part of the time.
Regards, Steve M.

 

[jaglad]

Steve,

Just checked again and I am listening to a CD through my DVD player (while I type this) which is connected via Coaxial and none of the input lights are on. Same with the CD player. But as soon as a DVD is inserted in this case Shrek on come the input lights.

Very strange, but it sounds as though mine is the same as yours!!


Stu

 

[steve.m]

imput signal

Stu, thanks for that. It looks as if that's the way they are. A bit odd, but...............Steve.

 

[Audiosouse]

Denon AVR-3805 and AC Power

Audiosouse;

As for color issues of your display. I had someone email me on this same issue and it turned out their speakers were not magnetically shielded and they placed them too close to their display. Perhaps this happened to you?

I recommend bypassing the 3805 video section and run the video sources directly to your display to see what happens.

Gene,

I tried all that and more...much, much more. I've been struggling all month, I upgraded my Paradigm Monitor 7v.3s to MagnaShield and the problems persisted. My process of elimination: separated audio, video and power cables; upgraded video interconnects with double shield and source ground; disconnected AM loop antennae beside TV and finally removed Monster HTS 1000 MKII surge suppressor/powerline conditioner. I FINALLY found the discolourations were caused by my Sony KV34HS510 and Denon AVR-3805 sharing a power source. I knew it was an AC issue all along (although magnetic shielding helps here too).

The Monster didn't filter a thing, in fact, it accentuated the problem noticeably. A $25 CDN (Costco) APS surge suppressor cleaned up most of it. The remaining cleaned up when I plugged the 3805 into a different outlet from the TV. Page four of the Denon manual under heading (2) Cautions On Installation states "Noise or disturbance of the picture may be generated if this unit...is used near a...TV...Noise or disturbance tends to occure partictulary whenusing indorro antennas or 300 ohm feeder wires."

!Note to all 3805 owners with CRT's, They're not kidding!!!

My affordable solution to the Monster HTS 1000 MKII will be two APS surge suppressors (they're sacrifical lambs if there's a surge anyway), one for audio/video and one for amplifiers (3805 and sub) a Blue Circle BC86 MkIII powerline conditioner ($110 US ea) plugged into each. Total cost should be around the same as the Monster, with better surge protection (3400 joules vs. 2775) and better line conditioning (each BC86 stacks filtration and filters the entire circuit). I'd love to see Audioholics test these babies, everybody's raving about them.

My patriotism is obvious here, but you've got to check out the Paradigm PW-2100 10" subwoofer, it's small, affordable and packs a 400 watts RMS (1500 peak!) Ultra Class D amplifier! Musical and brutal.

Thanks everyone, great forum!

 

[Jason Coleman]

Audiosouse-

I knew you had some bad A/C sh*t. From all those symptoms, it couldn't be anything else. I'm glad you got it worked out.

I'll have to check out the sub...I'm looking to upgrade later this year.

Jason

 

[MickeyMan]

The biamping recommendation mostly has its benefits for two channel. The AVR-3805 is more than capable at delivering full power to 4 channels simultaneously. In 7CH mode, it obviously cannot, but thats not a typical real world scenario. You would be surprised to know most of the power in a 7.1 HT setup of course is in the sub, followed by the Center channels and main speakers. Multichannel music is another story, but if you were stressing this unit in 5CH mode in a normal configuration, its likely that you should opt for a separate power amp to supplement your listening needs. You can always try this configuration to see what works best for you.

In my case, back on the AVR-5803, I did this, and never looked back, until I upgraded to 7.1 speaker configuration with my main speakers being an active subwoofer satellite system. I found my current configuration requires much less power to drive to theatrical levels, especially with its dual 400 watt subwoofers.

Sorry if I missed some questions in this forum, its hard to keep up

Thanks Gene that is a very clear answer. I will indeed try both options and judge carefully once my 3805 is in. I do use it for multichannel music and I do not use a subwoofer so my choice would likely to be the normal way of amplifying (bi-wired though).

I see that some people tend to claim that bi-amping gives fantastic results. My question to you is, did you also try bi-wiring? In my case, it was a big improvement bi-wiring my speakers from the 3803 (note: this could also be the result of the jumpers of my speakers which I suspect to be quite low quality).

Could somebody please answer the next questions also?
- can this way of bi-amping also be done with the 3803? Has anyone done this? (just curious)
- after it has been set up properly, is using the 3805 exactly the same as if it were not bi-amped? Volume, source selection, etc.?

 

[Jason Coleman]

Could somebody please answer the next questions also?
- can this way of bi-amping also be done with the 3803? Has anyone done this? (just curious)
- after it has been set up properly, is using the 3805 exactly the same as if it were not bi-amped? Volume, source selection, etc.?

I don't know about bi-amping the 3803...I've only seen the 5803 mentioned as able to do this. As far as using the 3805 bi-amped, it's exactly the same as before...auto-eq, volume control (master volume turns down Zone 2 volume), source selection, etc.

Jason

 

[jeffsg4mac]

Gene, or Clint, what are the chances of finding out just how well these auto-setups on the Denons and Yamahas work? what I mean is this. Instead of suggesting that the auto-setups may not be accurate because of this or that, how about a real test. Setting the receivers up in a room with known issues, then using test equipment to measure the before and after responses. It seems to me that would be the most fair way in determining what they are actually doing. I have found out myself in the past, that some people after hearing a system that has been flattened end up not liking it. I am not saying that is the case here, but rather I would like to see just how accurate or inaccurate these auto-setups are. Is this a reasonable question?

 

[gene]

Jeff;

Be careful what you wish for My Z9 review will have measurements of YPAO. I believe Clint may add a review addendum to include these in his 3805 review if you guys bug him enough.

 

[jeffsg4mac]

Gene, will I be disapointed, or surprised or other?

Clint, bug, bug, bug, bug, bug, bug. Is that enough, can we have it

 

[Kim F]

Biamping from a AVR3803

Biamping through the zone 2 of your AVR3803 should work exactly as on the 3805. I seem to remember doing it about 2 years ago, on a 3802 actually.

Go try it out.

 

[Audiosouse]

Sub Auto On not working from Analog input, DPLII surround mode

I finally broke down and joined! I realized I'd be spending plenty of my employers time here.

My sub's Auto On is not working only when the 3805 recieves Analog input while in DPLII surround mode (while watching TV) regardless of the main volume level It works normally when receiving a PCM signal from the DVD.

Is there some sub setting for DPLII I'm missing? I used the Auto Setup (which, for distance and level at least, is so accurate it's scary). Also, what's the difference between DPLII and DTS NEO:6 aside from NEO:6 adding the centre back channel (I'm only running 5.1)? Is one better than the other or is it a personal preference thing? The Denon manual is Lost in Translation

Finally, I posted earlier about my snake oil Monster Power products (HTS 1000 MK II and SW200). I can't believe Audioholics is recommending this thing! They may filter incoming AC from the recepticle, but as my experience with a CRT has shown, do not filter components from each other, regardless of the separate audio/video filter claim (which is bull). Speaking of snake oil, Monster does not substantiate their filter claims with (what I believe is) the industry standard dB rating over a frequency range (70 dB from 100 Hz to 1 kHz for my $25 APC as an example). I'm anxiously awaiting Audioholics to test and substantiate these products, they're right up there with cables in this respect.

I see plenty of Tripp Lite recommendations, their Iso Bar (ISOBAR6DBS) looks great and has three banks of 2 receptacles, all isolated from each other (only $79 CDN!). Anyone have experience with this product or Tripp Lite Isolation Transformers, particularly the IS1000? This beast looks like it's own self contained power station and is only $199 CDN! Check it out on their web site. I'm salivating over this thing, it makes the esoteric stuff look like an extension cord. I've got to find out where my wife hid my credit card. Thanks.

My tastes are simple -- I am always satisfied with the best
The chief enemy of good is better. - Dr. Milton Greene

 

[Audioholics]

Are you saying that if you connect a component via analogue inputs (like a VCR or cable TV) that your Denon doesn't play anything out the subwoofer/LFE output?

Is the subwoofer icon on on the front of the unit during this time?

PS. We plan on doing tests on power conditioners... its coming.

 

[falser]

I've pretty much decided that the 3805 is the reciever for me. But I'm debating about whether to buy from an authorized dealer or save some bucks ($300) and buy online. Any recommendations?

Edit: whoops just realized there was a whole thread on this topic

 

[Audiosouse]

Are you saying that if you connect a component via analogue inputs (like a VCR or cable TV) that your Denon doesn't play anything out the subwoofer/LFE output?

Is the subwoofer icon on on the front of the unit during this time?

PS. We plan on doing tests on power conditioners... its coming.

Yes Clint, that's it exactly.

However, when in DPLII mode, the LFE icon is lit on the front of the unit. Again, this only occurs from an analog source. The sub turns on immediately when fed a test signal from the receiver, or content from a CD or DVD. Is it that DPLII does not decode a dedicated LFE channel or could it be that analog TV content just doesn't contain any sub 80Hz info (which I find hard to believe)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Audioholics]

I'll play with this some and get back to you on it.