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  • Thread starter Thread starter Alex2507
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That 6x6aluminum I beam is worth enough to fund most of if not your whole project if u can find the right buyer- sell it and use lumber for your header- easier to attach the new cabinet and associated trim to as well. My .02 :)
Cheers,Mac
 
That 6x6aluminum I beam is worth enough to fund most of if not your whole project if u can find the right buyer- sell it and use lumber for your header- easier to attach the new cabinet and associated trim to as well. My .02 :)
Cheers,Mac

Make me an offer ... and come get it. :D

I wouldn't know where to begin to find a buyer. I'm going to clad the bottom of the beam with 2x stock for fastener love. The other thing is that I need the 6" width to float a shelf that a center channel will sit on ... unless you buy it. Then I would do something different. How much could I get for the beam?
 
6x6 would be considered H beam and runs about 25.00to 30.00 a ft
For that length. Try CL for a buyer. You could bolt or screw and glue a shelf support timber to the header before installing to get the same effect as the 6061 and it would protrude further depending on the size stock used. Cheers,Mac
 
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I hope that is not a load bearing wall you are planning to cut the studs on there Alex...

I assume that you have looked into this already but wanted to bring it up just in case. :-)
 
I hope that is not a load bearing wall you are planning to cut the studs on there Alex...

I assume that you have looked into this already but wanted to bring it up just in case. :-)

Where is you sense of adventure?:D
 
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I wouldn't know where to begin to find a buyer. How much could I get for the beam?

I agree with selling it; the price of metal has really gone up.
I'd check the local scrap yards in the area.
I'll check around....
EDIT Berger & Company Recycling - Scrap Metal
a few more:
Pawtucket Scrap metals | Scrap metals in Pawtucket, RI - YP.com
My brother gets a lot of scrap copper & aluminum. He goes at least once a month. These places will give you the price per lb over the phone.
 
I hope that is not a load bearing wall you are planning to cut the studs on there Alex...

I assume that you have looked into this already but wanted to bring it up just in case. :-)

If it's not load bearing it won't need a header; a 2x4 would suffice. If it is load bearing, just build a false wall out of a few 2x4s to temporarily support it. If you do have to go the false wall route, have someone hold the top plate (2x4) against the ceiling while you gently pound the studs in between it and the bottom plate laying in the same horizontal position on the floor. Then you won't mar the ceiling all up. Know what I mean??

Actually, knowing you're not sure if it's load bearing or not, just go the false wall/header route; unless you have a way to positively figure that out ;)
 
I'm guessing that since Alex is an experienced drywall man, he's pulling everyone's leg. I'll bet he knows if it is/isn't a load-bearing wall.;)
 
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probably no load there , I doubt that the design of such a complex would allow for the load to bear on anything except the parting firewalls.Although we have all seen stranger things I'm sure.
 
I'm guessing that since Alex is an experienced drywall man, he's pulling everyone's leg. I'll bet he knows if it is/isn't a load-bearing wall.;)

Oh, please. "Hey, you - nail that up there and tape it." He doesn't know s**t about framing.



J/K! :D
 
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Actually, knowing you're not sure if it's load bearing or not, just go the false wall/header route; unless you have a way to positively figure that out ;) :D

Cutting the studs seemed like a sure fire way to establish that the wall is either load bearing or not ... right? :eek:

Spare room/Mantown side with what's left of the H-beam. Notice the outlets have been moved?

PICT0194.jpg


Living room side:

PICT0195.jpg


Dry fitting H-beam and showing off the tres cool outlet thingy HD had.

PICT0196.jpg


Disclaimer: If you cut into your own walls all willy nilly based on my seeming lack of concern and your roof caves in ... your caved in roof is a small matter compared to your propensity for bad choices. Be careful out there. :)
 
Last night I got the 120V wiring sorted out and the TV rehung because GH needs watching.

Now it's time for center speaker shelf calculus.

Swerd or Fuzz, on the Song Center, how far back from the front do the front feet start to happen?

Pic's later, this morning AH ritual always puts me in a bind for time.
 
Jim salk told me that, ideally, the song center needs at least 18 inches from the wall to the back. The rear ported one that is. Also, there are no feet.
 
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