Bought new Onkyo TX-NR6050, hope I won't regret

[Trebdp83]

Sounds like you are having fun. Switching the stereo output speakers is a neat feature. I’m not currently using AccuEQ. The reflex feature is for timing the info on up firing dolby atmos modules. Can’t say it did much when I used it on the 696. Use your meter to get your levels.

Dolby Surround does do a great job with music. I find going into the Setup annoying to turn center spread on and off. It was in the Quick Menu on other models. I prefer using Onkyo’s VOCAL adjustment feature. It enhances the vocals in stereo but when using Dolby Surround it actually spreads the vocal out and the level is adjustable.

While using the NET feature to play music, I am able to bring up the Quick Menu and the Setup Menu on my TV screen. But, pressing the “i”/Status button only displays info on the front panel and does not bring up the info box in the lower right portion of the TV screen.

If wanting to listen to music with the NET feature while watching news or sports, you can assign video output of another source to the NET source and change between them by pressing the MODE button on the remote controller. I’ve used the feature quite a bit when web serving on my Mac mini or gaming. Get the Onkyo Controller app yet?

 

[Mike Up]

Thanks for the help, I see I can change the video. That's good. On the Denon, you can assign a video input for each source input. Just one of the numerous extra features it had. Not many are useful, and can cause issues if it gets changed by a pet hitting buttons. Then it's a bear to find through all the layered menus.

The one thing I really miss is the on screen display of the surround modes while using the net's Pandora. However I may just use my Roku and Fire TV for network stuff (Pandora, Spotify, Amazon Music, etc) other than internet stations obviously. That way I can get On Screen displays. Weird why Onkyo decided to not have OSD with the Network apps other than the setup menu, quick setup, and app music info. I like seeing the Music mode and format information (i information button). However glad to see it's normal.

I haven't had a receiver this simple since the Yamaha RX-V2095. It's lacks so many features of my AVR-2312ci but that's a good thing! The AVR-2312ci features were all buried in layers of layers of on screen menus and difficult to find sometimes. Everything is super easy to access on this Onkyo. I also like the big front panel font. It's easy to read from my couch. The Denon AVR-2312ci front panel display was hard to read requiring me to get up and see the front panel. I wasn't using On Screen Displays on that receiver since all HDMI 4K video switching was done in the television being the receiver has only 1080p HDMIs. I guess that's why on screen display is a big deal to me, as one of the reasons I upgraded the receiver, so I didn't have to rely on the front panel.

The more I think about the price of this TX-NR6050 the more amazed I am. The Pioneer Elite VSX-LX105 is the same receiver with Pioneers custom sound mode names and such, with an additional IR in, RS-232 port and 12V trigger output for $900! Over twice what this TX-NR6050 was. Weird though, the LX105 changes the crossover setting for each speaker to small, large, none and only offers one crossover setting for all speakers instead of individually like Onkyo. Big take away IMO. Same on screen menu order just different options.

The Onkyo TX-NR6100 with THX seems to be a more featured receiver. Weird why the Pioneer sells for $100 more. Guess it's the name and loyalty factor stuff.

As I said at $440, the TX-NR6050 is a bargain.

 

[Trebdp83]

Many are enjoying the TX-NR6050. While a few features were removed from the 6100, some were actually removed or changed in the whole current line. As new features get added, some get retired. This is true of every brand. As for the video assign feature, it only works with the NET input and video sources assigned to an HDMI port. Assigning the AUX input source to an HDMI port does NOT work with the NET video assign feature and another source such CD would need to be assigned to an HDMI port for it to work with the NET video assign feature.

One of the more frustrating features of ANY new receiver is network music streaming. While the 6050 is very capable, music service support varies among manufacturers. Many blame hardware and firmware issues when often the problem is the service simply couldn’t make a deal with a manufacturer for support because of deals with other manufacturers. I guess you could say the Onkyo has two different network music streaming features. The first of them is the set of built in service apps in the receiver itself. It is starting to show its age and is limited in audio support. Hi-res is limited or missing from some services. What I like about the built in apps is that they are accessible with the remote controller, the Onkyo Controller app and even the buttons on the front panel. But, signing into some of the service apps requires the use of the Onkyo Controller app.

The second network streaming feature comes with DTS Play-Fi. There is a stand alone app and the Onkyo/DTS Play-Fi app. The Onkyo version is also showing its age. Not sure if they are still doing it, but the DTS Play-Fi app offered a free month of Qobuz upon download. This app allows hi-res playback from services such as Amazon Music and Qobuz on Onkyo receivers. The Onkyo TX-NR6050's built in Amazon Music app does not support lossless or hi-res. Or, I haven't figured out how to get it to work. I've only been able to get it to output lossy AAC. The Amazon Music Unlimited service works very well through the DTS Play-Fi app and is more fully featured than Qobuz using the app. Tidal is also supported by DTS Play-Fi but Apple Music is not present and trying to access downloaded music on a Mac if using the Onkyo DTS Play-Fi app on it is also prohibited.

There are some concerns using DTS Play-Fi for playback. The audio is streamed from the device using the app as opposed to it just being a controller for the service that is sending audio directly to the receiver. When using the app, ALL sound modes other than STEREO and ALL CHANNEL STEREO are inaccessible to the user. So, if one wants to listen to hi-res music from Amazon, they are better off using a supported device connected to the receiver so that different sound modes are available to them. The Onkyo built in apps and DTS Play-Fi do not support Dolby Atmos Music playback and they will be sent in two channel format or not at all depending on the service.

I have no Amazon streaming devices and have to get creative to play hi-res music from Amazon Music and Qobuz. I use the Onkyo DTS Play-Fi app in my Mac mini M1. It's silly that Apple requires an external DAC for hi-res playback of their own service on their iPhones and Macs and does not support DLNA. But, hi-res over one's network using different service and a Mac is possible using the Onkyo/DTS Play-Fi app or even with software like Audirvana. So, I can browse the forums while I listen hi-res music while sitting on the couch as the Mac mini M1 is connected to the receiver. Activating the app flips the source input over to NET and I have to hit the MODE button on the remote controller to give me back the Mac mini video output. It's a small annoyance.

 

[snakeeyes]

While on AppleTV 4K 24-bit/48KHz playback of Apple Music isn’t 24-bit/192KHz, only dogs and dolphins will know the difference. LOL

$10/mo for Apple Music is a great deal overall.

 

[Mike Up]

My Denon AVR-2312ci had a network radio but it was confusing and difficult to use so I just didn't use it. I had bought an Ethernet to Wifi adapter for the AVR-2312ci mainly for web browser control and firmware updates. I honestly can't remember if I ever did a firmware update but used the web browser control often since I had no TV On Screen Disiplay. Hard to navigate through layers of menus with a TV screen so web browser control was useful.

I'll likely skip the network apps and just use network radio stations which are pretty nice even though in MP3 format (that the kids think is HiDef ) .

I bought 3 Fire TV Stick 4K Max streamers. They were on sale for $35. But Fire TV sucks compared to Roku. Very glitchy needing reboots all the time. The reason was strictly for the Amazon Music Unlimited UHD content. While TVs only output 48Khz, they can still put out 16 or 24 bit resolution which is CD quality and higher. The sampling frequency creates a high end audio frequency already above my hearing at 48Khz so 96 or 192khz isn't much of a benefit but the bit depth is!

 

[Mike Up]

While on AppleTV 4K 24-bit/48KHz playback of Apple Music isn’t 24-bit/192KHz, only dogs and dolphins will know the difference. LOL

$10/mo for Apple Music is a great deal overall.

I pay $8.99/month for Amazon Music Unlimited UHD.

If you're an Apple guy, that's great it works for you. No Apple products are allowed in my house. Apple is against my religion.

 

[Trebdp83]

The concern is the conversion. Things get up and down mixed for output on Apple TV 4K and Mac via HDMI rather than just allowing bit for bit output. I recently restarted Prime for $7.49 per month for three months which includes Amazon Music Unlimited. I scored five months of Apple Music for free through BestBuy.

 

[Trebdp83]

My Denon AVR-2312ci had a network radio but it was confusing and difficult to use so I just didn't use it. I had bought an Ethernet to Wifi adapter for the AVR-2312ci mainly for web browser control and firmware updates. I honestly can't remember if I ever did a firmware update but used the web browser control often since I had no TV On Screen Disiplay. Hard to navigate through layers of menus with a TV screen so web browser control was useful.

I'll likely skip the network apps and just use network radio stations which are pretty nice even though in MP3 format (that the kids think is HiDef ) .

I bought 3 Fire TV Stick 4K Max streamers. They were on sale for $35. But Fire TV sucks compared to Roku. Very glitchy needing reboots all the time. The reason was strictly for the Amazon Music Unlimited UHD content. While TVs only output 48Khz, they can still put out 16 or 24 bit resolution which is CD quality and higher. The sampling frequency creates a high end audio frequency already above my hearing at 48Khz so 96 or 192khz isn't much of a benefit but the bit depth is!

Are your devices connected to the TV or receiver? You might try the Onkyo’s web setup feature. Enter its IP address into a web browser as 192.168.XX.XXX/websetup/ and enter ciuser for both the login and password. All of the settings will be available as well as a few that are not available using the onscreen TV Setup.

 

[3db]

Mike, Im happy you have your AVR back and working. It doesnt surprise me that the Onkyo manual sucks. So does Yamaha and Im betting so do all the others. Problem with manuals in general is that they are written by engineers and not technical writers.

 

[Mike Up]

Are your devices connected to the TV or receiver?

I did have all HDMIs connected to the TV. That being the Roku, Sony UHD BD Player (HDMI 1 Audio to Receiver, HDMI 2 Video to TV), and Denon receiver (1080P), then the television's optical digital output went to the Denon AVR-2312ci. That way I could enjoy 4K, Dolby Vision, HDR10, and HDR10+ on the television why still getting good 5.1 Dolby Digital for the sound. The Sony UHD BD Player had it's audio going to receiver for DTS HD Master audio 7.1. I had the Fire TV stick hooked directly to the AVR-2312ci for best possible sound quality for UHD music. Also had the HK CD Recorder, Magnavox DVD Recorder/VCR combo (Has 480p HDMI Out) and Turntable connected directly to AVR-2312ci. I had a Denon Universal SACD/DVD-A player and cassette deck connected to AVR-2312ci but retired them to storage. I mainly just listen to SACDs and have all my DVD-A discs now on SACD, and most of my cassettes have broke with squeal or mechanically as they are about 25 to 30 years old.

Everything is now connected directly to the Onkyo TX-NR6050! Makes life much less complicated!

When I'm not so busy, I'm going to try out the web browser control with the Onkyo TX-NR6050 and see how I like it.

 

[Mike Up]

Mike, Im happy you have your AVR back and working. It doesnt surprise me that the Onkyo manual sucks. So does Yamaha and Im betting so do all the others. Problem with manuals in general is that they are written by engineers and not technical writers.

Thanks! One thing I found out about the manuals, as I've gone through them all, is that Onkyo, Integra and Pioneer Elite all use the same manual with changes for their differences of features, feature terms, and inputs and outputs. This leaves it to be error prone as each is just copied for the other, and not an individual manual for each.

Seems even years got messed up as the new models do not have a front panel HDMI but the manual still references that it's only compatible with lower quality video.

Denons manuals for my AVR-2312ci and AVR-3803 were accurate but hard to find what you needed because the way they were written. These Onkyo manuals are a bit better.

 

[Mike Up]

You might try the Onkyo’s web setup feature. Enter its IP address into a web browser as 192.168.XX.XXX/websetup/ and enter ciuser for both the login and password. All of the settings will be available as well as a few that are not available using the onscreen TV Setup.

Where did you get that password. I thought it was the one in the manual but it's not. The one in manual is admin for user and password and it only lets you change network settings.

The password you provided allows secret menus not available through the remote and receiver itself. Mainly to turn on HDR, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision and the Limit Mode.

Does using that password void the warranty?

*EDIT* Ok just found this news release by Onkyo so these passwords were released in a news press but not included in the manual. Makes no sense. Looks mainly for custom installers who setup systems for clients.

 

[Trebdp83]

No. The web setup and related login and password are official Onkyo releases.

Onkyo Releases FW Update - Includes New Web Setup Functionality | Onkyo USA

Onkyo Home Entertainment Co., Ltd., parent company of Integra, Elite, and Onkyo AVRs continues to support and refine select existing models to answer the needs of Custom Integrators and AV enthusiasts. Web Setup enables advanced users to configure all parameters of the AVR Setup Menu from any...

www.onkyousa.com

 

[Trebdp83]

Some don’t have a TV connected to their receiver and can make adjustments from a web browser. It’s handy for renaming source inputs with a keyboard. Your system settings can also be backed up or printed out in case of a factory reset. The thing can also test HDMI cables when connecting both ends to certain ports on the receiver. I forgot the procedure after doing it once awhile ago. Don’t forget to download the Onkyo Controller app to a Smart device. I seem to use it most of the time these days. Pandora is usually on in one of my receivers most days and if I hear something I like I just give the app a tap for a thumbs up.

 

[Mike Up]

Ok, thanks. Yeh, I did find the press release as I said after I made the original post.

Here's a question. The speaker level, subwoofer level test signal seems about 6 to 7 db hot or to loud. When I go by this setting my bass is about 6 decibels to low. Any reason or known issue.

My 2 Denon receivers subwoofer levels matched up. I know this by playing music, as I compared my 2 systems sound. I even compared against my headphones which are about 4 decibels hot in the bass.

Now to get the same decibel outputs from the subwoofer signal, when I change to music the subwoofer is about 6 decibels to low. So I have to turn the subwoofer level up by 6 decibels to match my other system (now with the 2312ci) and my headphones (which are about 2 decibels heavier in the bass). I like my bass about 2 decibels hot.

So I tried messing with crossover settings, LFE settings and the such and using the speaker level, subwoofer level to match the subwoofer with the speakers, always leaves the bass low about 6 decibels when playing music.

Any reason? I could do another reset but I hate losing all the settings and re-names I already put in. That could be another hour of wasted time.

I've seen this before on test discs where the subwoofer level signal was to loud and left the subwoofer volume to low with actual music and movies.

I just never seen it on a receiver before. All my Yamaha's and Denons have had good accurate speaker level signal outputs.

When I put the subwoofer to the correct setting of -7 decibels (the setting I had on the Denon AVR-312ci also) the signal generator outputs a signal that's about 9 decibels higher than the front channels. At -7 decibels, the subwoofer level is only about 2 decibels higher than the front channels comparing systems and headphones.

Thanks

 

[lovinthehd]

Ok, thanks. Yeh, I did find the press release as I said after I made the original post.


When I put the subwoofer to the correct setting of -7 decibels (the setting I had on the Denon AVR-312ci also) the signal generator outputs a signal that's about 7 to 8 decibels higher than the front channels where it should only be about 2 or 3 decibels higher.

Thanks

What do you mean "correct" level of -7 between different avrs? Is this the sub trim level in the avr or a setting on the sub's amp?

 

[Mike Up]

What do you mean "correct" level of -7 between different avrs? Is this the sub trim level in the avr or a setting on the sub's amp?

So that I have the bass about 2 decibels hot or higher in level than the front speakers, I need a setting of -7db on the Onkyo. That was the same setting I had on the Denon as well for a setting 2 db high according to level meter. Same on my other Denon receiver system. With a setting of -7db the bass was lower than in my headphones which had been measured by Rtings.com to have bass at +4db.

However on the Onkyo, my main speakers read 71 decibels and the subwoofer reads 80 decibel volume with a -7db level, even though the subwoofer is truly only about 2 db higher in volume than the front speakers.

The test signal generator for the subwoofer seems to be way off. All the other levels for speakers matches what I had on my Denon AVR-2312ci. I transfered my speaker levels from the Denon AVR-2312ci and the front, center, and surround speakers all matched actual volume levels using the same level settings. BUT the subwoofer did not. To be 2 decibels high on the Sound Pressure Level meter, I need a subwoofer level setting of -14db which is way off. It's actually -7db (as was the denon receiver) to be 2 db higher than the front speakers.

The subwoofer signal generator is putting out a signal that is about 7 decibels to loud.

 

[lovinthehd]

So that I have the bass about 2 decibels hot or higher in level than the front speakers, I need a setting of -7db on the Onkyo. That was the same setting I had on the Denon as well for a setting 2 db high according to level meter. Same on my other Denon receiver system. With a setting of -7db the bass was lower than in my headphones which had been measured by Rtings.com to have bass at +4db.

However on the Onkyo, my main speakers read 71 decibels and the subwoofer reads 80 decibel volume with a -7db level, even though the subwoofer is truly only about 2 db higher in volume than the front speakers.

The test signal generator for the subwoofer seems to be way off. All the other levels for speakers matches what I had on my Denon AVR-2312ci. I transfered my speaker levels from the Denon AVR-2312ci and the front, center, and surround speakers all matched actual volume levels using the same level settings. BUT the subwoofer did not. To be 2 decibels high on the Sound Pressure Level meter, I need a subwoofer level setting of -14db which is way off. It's actually -7db (as was the denon receiver) to be 2 db higher than the front speakers.

The subwoofer signal generator is putting out a signal that is about 7 decibels to loud.

I'm still not quite grasping your methodology. The pre-out isn't necessarily outputting at the same level between the two avrs, which could account for differences. You're using an spl meter with avr test tones in each case? I'd never copy settrings for speaker or sub trim levels from one avr to another myself.....

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I'm still not quite grasping your methodology. The pre-out isn't necessarily outputting at the same level between the two avrs, which could account for differences. You're using an spl meter with avr test tones in each case? I'd never copy settrings for speaker or sub trim levels from one avr to another myself.....

Yeah, you definitely shouldn’t ever copy settings from one system to the next. They just don’t necessarily apply.

And I was also wondering if an SPL meter was being used. It doesn’t seem like it so that really makes for a lot of guess work.

 

[Mike Up]

Using my SPL meter, speakers are calibrated to 71 db and when subwoofer is calibrated to 73 db using the receiver generated test signal, the actual subwoofer output is 7 db low. As I said, I had 2 comparable sources to prove this with.

I have a test disc I'll use to get my final proof.

As it is, the receiver subwoofer output is 7 db low due to the generated subwoofer test signal being 7db to loud.

I'll reset receiver later when i have time as we had some electrical outages flickering in and out that may have glitched the receiver.

Thanks for the help.